Need to replace black valve on Escape 19

[kellyben]

Hi All,

As the title says, my black valve is at a point where it needs to be replaced. The trailer is in storage for the winter, so I'm hoping to confirm that this valve will work as a direct replacement without having to make the trip to compare it to the valve that's on there now.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Ben

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by kellyben

Hi All,

As the title says, my black valve is at a point where it needs to be replaced. The trailer is in storage for the winter, so I'm hoping to confirm that this valve will work as a direct replacement without having to make the trip to compare it to the valve that's on there now.

thats the exact one I used on my E21. I let a pro install it for me, and it took him about twice as long as he thought it would, the way Escape configured the valve stack with the grey and black, it was tough to get sufficient slack. this may have been compounded by my trailer having the insulating foam on the undercarriage.

[cpaharley2008]

Ben,
Please update your avatar to reflect your Escape model, if owned. Helps with responses from members....

[elongest]

I just replaced both valves on my classic E-19. If you are going to open up the drain lines why not replace both valves. With the wheel well greywater valve it is actually easier to loosen up both valves when replacing one valve. The gray metal handle Valterra valves like you listed is what I use. The trailer side flange fittings ETI uses are flimsy junk. When loosening, do not let the hardware turn on the trailer side or the flange ear may break. If you break the flange ear and have to replace it, replace it with a Valterra slip flange fitting. Also get a container of plumber's silicone paste from HD or Lowes to lube your new seals.
Eddie

[MVA]

We replaced both valves. If you have the spray foam insulation (like we do), you will need to remove the insulation around the drain lines so that the lines will flex enough to allow you to slip in the new valves.

Refoam with ordinary urethane foam in a can and paint new foam black afterward to protect from UV light.

[Ron in BC]

If you have a side pull grey water drain handle you might consider this mod at the same time if you have a side pull grey water tank valve.

Personally I found the side pull to be a huge nuisance, especially if the valve was a little hard to open and I had to kneel down in a wet area to awkwardly pull it sideways to open.

Front pull for both valves is so much easier. So glad ETI changed to both front pull valves on newer models.

Ron

[John in Santa Cruz]

squirt some silicon spray lube on the rod every few dumps, and work it in and out a few times. reminds me, I need to get a can of LPS-1 and stow it with my dump supplies.

[MVA]

I have not used LPS-1. Is it a variant of lithium grease or WD-40?

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by MVA

I have not used LPS-1. Is it a variant of lithium grease or WD-40?

See here..https://www.grainger.com/category/lu...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[MyronL]

Does it matter which one I use?

[cpaharley2008]

I would try WD-40 before the grease....

[gbaglo]

I'd do the opposite. I don't use WD-40 for anything. It was created too displace water ( WD ).

[John in Santa Cruz]

LPS-1 is a pure silicone spray, clear, never dries out. I would not use any petroleum product as it could soften and damage the rubber seals, that includes a lithium grease. Lithium grease is great for some stuff like car door hinges, garage door opener rails, and so forth. WD-40 is good for cleaning bugs and tar spots off your wheel wells.

[kellyben]

Hi All,

I replaced the valve a while back and found the problem was actually attributable to a corner of the flange ear being cracked.

I debated replacing the plumbing from the black tank on back, although I wasn't excited about it and I didn't want to remove all of the foam in that area at that time. Anyways, I decided to try clamping and ABS gluing the corner of the flange ear back in place and replacing the valve. I then test filled the black tank and everything held, so we've been camping with that repair in place ever since. The repair was made with the thought in mind that I'd need to make a more permanent fix down the road, as the flange is at least somewhat compromised at this point.

Anyways, I got under the camper today and began removing foam from the black valve on up to where the pluming exits the underside of the shell. I recall reading elsewhere on the forum that the plumbing beneath the black tank actually threads into the tank itself and I'm trying to assess exactly what I need to make the repair.

Can anyone who's made this repair in the past comment on whether the vertical ABS pipe that's above the elbow is a part of the black tank itself or whether this is the piece that is threaded into the black tank? I'm hoping to have a better idea of what I'm up against before pulling the valves again.

[Ron in BC]

I'm not sure why you feel that you have to remove all the plumbing from the black tank back. You can cut the pipe just ahead of the flange and use a coupling to join old to new. You can either use a flexible or glued connection.

If you're going to replace the slide valve consider also converting the grey tank to front pull. So much easier and direct than the awkward side pull.

Ron

Opps, looks like I posted the same thing back in February, well, still true.

[elongest]

Make sure you use a Velterra flange fitting for a replacement. The ears on the flanges that Escape used flanges in the early years are weak and prone to cracking. I agree with Ron, just use a coupling on the straight pipe and replace the flange. I try to stay away from Escape pipe/tank attachment fittings things can turn bad quickly. I stayed with the original greywater plumbing; it lets me use a long straight wand to clean out the grey tank. YMMV
Eddie

[DanandDaphne]

I agree with Ron, I wouldn't go back any farther than you need to. I especially wouldn't mess with the tank connection if it's not leaking. If things go bad they could be very bad