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10-15-2017, 02:49 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Santa Cruz, CA, California
Trailer: 2016 17A
Posts: 40
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Propane leak at the tank connection
What might be a possible solution to a leaking pigtail connection short of replacement. Visual inspection looks normal. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Allan
__________________
"never better"
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10-15-2017, 03:01 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Jeromesville, Ohio
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21' pulled with 2014 Silverado Crewcab
Posts: 854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liveoakal
What might be a possible solution to a leaking pigtail connection short of replacement. Visual inspection looks normal. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Allan
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Is the threaded connection leaking or the hose itself? Check with liquid soap. They make a special stuff for leak checking. Available from home improvement or hardware stores. Dish soap diluted will work too. Look for bubbling. If its threaded connection then try tightening. If that doesn't work then unscrew and use pipe dope or yellow teflon tape and reconnect. If it is the hose or crimp fitting then replace.
__________________
Carl,
"Isn't it amazing how much stuff we get done the day before vacation?"
Zig Ziglar
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10-15-2017, 03:15 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,255
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Take the pigtail off. Carefully clean any sealant or any "teflon tape" out of the threads with a tip of a pen knife blade or ice pick. Easy does it. Do the same on the receiving threads in the regulator. Re wrap the threads on the pigtail about four turns of gas grade tape. PTFE. Screw back in , turn on tank, Check for leaks. If it still leaks, buy a new pogtail. Rarely it can be the regulator threads. If so buy a new one, they aren't that much. I am assuming your leak is at the regulator. If it's at the tank end and not a bad tank valve, buy a new pigtail. YMMV. Don't skimp on safety items, it isn't worth it. Salis populi suprema lex.
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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10-15-2017, 05:11 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liveoakal
What might be a possible solution to a leaking pigtail connection short of replacement. Visual inspection looks normal. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Allan
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We had a leak at the pigtail almost from day one . No matter what I did it went back to leaking . Finally changed out the regulator and both pig tails a year ago . No more problems since . Pat
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10-15-2017, 05:39 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Parksville, British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 17B
Posts: 148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liveoakal
What might be a possible solution to a leaking pigtail connection short of replacement. Visual inspection looks normal. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Allan
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There is also a small "O" ring located on the tank valve, this is what the pigtail fitting seals against. If this gets damaged there can be a leak which might appear to be coming from the pigtail itself. Rotating the pigtail fitting once its sealed against the "O" ring on the tank will cause tearing of the "O" ring.
__________________
David
2016 VW Touareg TDI
2014 Escape 17B "Glass Cabin"
2019 KC the Beagle
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10-15-2017, 05:56 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David H
There is also a small "O" ring located on the tank valve, this is what the pigtail fitting seals against. If this gets damaged there can be a leak which might appear to be coming from the pigtail itself. Rotating the pigtail fitting once its sealed against the "O" ring on the tank will cause tearing of the "O" ring.
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I changed out the O ring etc. It looked like the pigtails were cross threaded . The regulator just needed changing . Everything was new and I hate to replace if I can fix but I just gave up and changed out everything and have not had a issue since . Pat
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10-15-2017, 07:15 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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We had a propane odor near front of trailer. Soapy water indicated it was the crimp fittings on the pigtails at the regulator connection. Bought new ones and problem solved, but your trailer is much newer so i’d check all the fittings first and nail down the problem. The Mr. Heater pigtails are more expensive but are better made. You’ll see how they do the full brass crimp fitting versus the small ring on the cheaper ones.
By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59953-P...EKQCBEMQ8X6Z2Y
Grab some of the yellow PTFE pipe thread tape too.
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10-15-2017, 07:22 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
We had a propane odor near front of trailer. Soapy water indicated it was the crimp fittings on the pigtails at the regulator connection. Bought new ones and problem solved, but your trailer is much newer so i’d check all the fittings first and nail down the problem. The Mr. Heater pigtails are more expensive but are better made. You’ll see how they do the full brass crimp fitting versus the small ring on the cheaper ones.
By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59953-P...EKQCBEMQ8X6Z2Y
Grab some of the yellow PTFE pipe thread tape too.
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Dave didn't know about Mr. heater pigtails but that is what we bought Pat
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10-15-2017, 08:59 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Allan, which end of the hose is leaking? The connection at the tank and the connection at the regulator are very different, so the solution would be different.
As for threaded fittings... tapered pipe threads and flare fittings are entirely different. Only tapered pipe threads use a sealant (such as tape or dope). Make sure you clearly understand which one you are dealing with.
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10-15-2017, 09:05 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.
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I think all regulators have female 1/4" pipe thread inlet ports; some just come with the adapter to inverted flare, and others don't. Pigtails are available with either inverted flare ends or with male NPT to go directly into the regulator port; I would always use inverted flare to make future pigtail replacement easier.
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10-16-2017, 08:20 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Santa Cruz, CA, California
Trailer: 2016 17A
Posts: 40
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Many thanks for all of the input. I am all but certain that the leak is from the tank connection. The idea of a damaged O ring seems to be worth checking out. Has anyone replaced such an item.
Allan
__________________
"never better"
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10-16-2017, 09:03 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,255
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Tank gasket
I had a leaky gasket on an older tank that had been recertified. I think the fill nozzle must have been rough when I got it refilled and galled the gasket. I could not find a replacement O ring at the hardware or propane dealer. In their defense it was an older tank and not a worthington so I turned it in and got a newer tank as a trade in. Did not go back to "Guppy's" for any more fills.
Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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09-04-2019, 09:50 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Trailer: 2011 Casita SD 17 Sold July 2016: 2015 Escape 21 Aug 2016
Posts: 101
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Propane Pigtail Replacement Question
Quote from post # 7 above:
By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59953-P...EKQCBEMQ8X6Z2Y
I need to replace the propane pigtails on my 2015 21' and need a little guidance from those more knowledgeable than I. My current (original) pigtail has the 1/4" male NPT fitting, so it appears I do not need the adapter. However, my existing pigtail has a check valve in the fitting. In the two links above, neither the pigtail nor the adapter appears to contain a check valve.
So, is the check valve necessary? If so, what's the best way to include one?
Thanks in advance,
Paul
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09-04-2019, 10:05 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a602pmcc
Quote from post # 7 above:
By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59953-P...EKQCBEMQ8X6Z2Y
I need to replace the propane pigtails on my 2015 21' and need a little guidance from those more knowledgeable than I. My current (original) pigtail has the 1/4" male NPT fitting, so it appears I do not need the adapter. However, my existing pigtail has a check valve in the fitting. In the two links above, neither the pigtail nor the adapter appears to contain a check valve.
So, is the check valve necessary? If so, what's the best way to include one?
Thanks in advance,
Paul
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The best propane pigtails I have found are made by MB Sturgis. Here is a link to the 12" with back check.
https://www.etrailer.com/Propane/MB-...100473-12.html
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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09-04-2019, 10:35 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a602pmcc
Quote from post # 7 above:
By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNJQ0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59953-P...EKQCBEMQ8X6Z2Y
I need to replace the propane pigtails on my 2015 21' and need a little guidance from those more knowledgeable than I. My current (original) pigtail has the 1/4" male NPT fitting, so it appears I do not need the adapter. However, my existing pigtail has a check valve in the fitting. In the two links above, neither the pigtail nor the adapter appears to contain a check valve.
So, is the check valve necessary? If so, what's the best way to include one?
Thanks in advance,
Paul
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All Type 1 connectors with the ACME nut should have the back check built in. There should be no need for anything additional in the line. The Mr. Heater or MB Sturgis pigtails that Tom linked to should serve you well.
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09-04-2019, 10:58 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
All Type 1 connectors with the ACME nut should have the back check built in. There should be no need for anything additional in the line.
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The excess flow valve (which should be in all pigtails, QCC-1 or POL) is a flow rate limiter, not a back-check (one-way) valve, and no check valve is required in a pigtail.
It was common for dual-tank setups to have a check valve for each side - typically mounted in a tee on the regulator input - when plain single-input regulators were used, to keep the propane from one tank leaking out when the other tank was disconnected. With an auto-changeover regulator, this is handled by the changeover valve.
Every unnecessary valve is another potential point to fail, or just to make annoying whistling noises.
a602pmcc - did the original really have a back check valve, or just an excess flow valve? If you meant an excess flow valve... then yes, you should have one and the hose will have it. Escape uses pigtails with a green hand nut, indicating the flow rate allowed by the valve (200,000 BTU/hr)... so go with green for the replacement. The black (100,000 BTU/hr) rate might not be enough.
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09-04-2019, 02:21 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Trailer: 2011 Casita SD 17 Sold July 2016: 2015 Escape 21 Aug 2016
Posts: 101
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Back Check Valve
Brian,
I was basing my assessment of the existing one having a back check valve on the presence of a plastic and spring apparatus visible in the regulator end (male NPT fitting) of the pigtail as shown in the photo below. If that is indeed a back check valve it sounds from the additional info provided by you, Rubicon, and Tom that such a valve is superfluous in this application. (I do have the standard Escape change-over regulator.)
So I can just order the Mr Heater or similar pigtail and should be good to go.
Thanks guys, you have smartened me up considerably on how this works and how to keep it safe.
Paul
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09-04-2019, 04:21 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a602pmcc
Brian,
I was basing my assessment of the existing one having a back check valve on the presence of a plastic and spring apparatus visible in the regulator end (male NPT fitting) of the pigtail as shown in the photo below. If that is indeed a back check valve it sounds from the additional info provided by you, Rubicon, and Tom that such a valve is superfluous in this application. (I do have the standard Escape change-over regulator.)
So I can just order the Mr Heater or similar pigtail and should be good to go.
Thanks guys, you have smartened me up considerably on how this works and how to keep it safe.
Paul
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It depends on the regulator setup you have on your trailer. My guess is that if it has a back check now, you should replace it with a pigtail with a back check. Even if the back check is not needed, it's not going to hurt anything to have it.
The link I posted is for a 12" pigtail with a back check - should exactly match the one you have now.
MB Sturgis Propane Hose Assembly - RV Type 1 w/ Back Check x 1/4" MPT - 12"
https://www.etrailer.com/Propane/MB-...100473-12.html
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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09-04-2019, 05:11 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Trailer: 2011 Casita SD 17 Sold July 2016: 2015 Escape 21 Aug 2016
Posts: 101
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Thanks, Tom. I just ordered two of those.
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09-04-2019, 05:20 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a602pmcc
I was basing my assessment of the existing one having a back check valve on the presence of a plastic and spring apparatus visible in the regulator end (male NPT fitting) of the pigtail as shown in the photo below.
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That makes sense. A superfluous back-check valve is probably harmless if you don't need your propane system to work in challenging conditions. I have found propane use to be problematic in low temperatures, so I look for a more optimal design.
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