Quircky Fridge

75thRanger · 10-10-2019, 01:19 PM

I have the 2019 21. New in Aug. I've had a problem with the fridge cutting off while using propane. It just does not like using propane in this South Texas heat.

It will run for 3, 4 hrs and cut off. I haven't seen others with this problem, I didn't do a search. I don't know if I just have a peculiar fridge or not. Easy to reset the switch but I don't want to do that very often.

I'm thinking of pulling the fridge and installing a thermal operated fan behind.

I'm currently using a 'work around'. I turn the propane on the evening before and run it on propane all nite. It's fine with running at nite on propane. Before leaving I'll set it to DC and be off.

DC keeps it as cold as it found it. The truck and solar keeps the batteries charged.

Anyone have a similar problem? Install fan?

cpaharley2008 · 10-10-2019, 02:08 PM

How do you know it cuts off? Does the display indicate off?

75thRanger · 10-10-2019, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

How do you know it cuts off? Does the display indicate off?

The eyebrow is dark and the thermal reset button pops out and shuts off 12v

cpaharley2008 · 10-10-2019, 02:24 PM

But you said it was on propane and shuts off? We had issues with blowouts on propane while undertow?

75thRanger · 10-10-2019, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

But you said it was on propane and shuts off? We had issues with blowouts on propane while undertow?

That's what I said. It's running on propane sitting on the pad and turns off. The thermal switch turns it off.

tdf-texas · 10-10-2019, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75thRanger

That's what I said. It's running on propane sitting on the pad and turns off. The thermal switch turns it off.

If the thermal switch is tripping, something is wrong with your propane burner assembly/boiler tube. Try taking a infrared thermometer and checking the boiler tube temp.

The temp limit switch is shown at the far right with two red wires in the pic. That's where you want to measure the temp.

Just a hint - mud dawbers can restrict air flow in the boiler tube. You might want to take a close look at it.

75thRanger · 10-11-2019, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

If the thermal switch is tripping, something is wrong with your propane burner assembly/boiler tube. Try taking a infrared thermometer and checking the boiler tube temp.

The temp limit switch is shown at the far right with two red wires in the pic. That's where you want to measure the temp.

Just a hint - mud dawbers can restrict air flow in the boiler tube. You might want to take a close look at it.

I don't have a way to check temp. My thermal switch has two 12v plugs and a tiny black reset button between them.

I have checked the burner tube and it is as new. The slots are centered under the flue tube and flame is clear blue at the slots.

Electrode set to 1/8", can't see that having anything to do with temp but I did it anyway.

I can't see anything being wrong with the burner if the flame is correct and constant. It was constant as long as I observed it. Who knows after a few hours.

It ran fine on the way home when I was in more temperate weather. WA, ID, UT. I was in 102 in AZ the first time it shut down. It seems as if the 102 in series with burner heat was just too much for my fridge temp switch.

I have the DM2663. No fan. Might install one.

75thRanger · 10-11-2019, 08:59 AM

I've seen to remember seeing a RV fridge thermal fan that came on at about 250 so I'm guessing the thermal switch trips around there somewhere.

I don't see gas pressure numbers anywhere in manual. What should it be? If I buy a laser temp gage I think I will also get a Propane pressure gage.

Greg A · 10-11-2019, 11:24 AM

The fridge should still be under warranty. I’d check with a domestic shop to put in a repair claim while you still have the warranty.

tdf-texas · 10-11-2019, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75thRanger

I don't have a way to check temp. My thermal switch has two 12v plugs and a tiny black reset button between them.

I have checked the burner tube and it is as new. The slots are centered under the flue tube and flame is clear blue at the slots.

Electrode set to 1/8", can't see that having anything to do with temp but I did it anyway.

I can't see anything being wrong with the burner if the flame is correct and constant. It was constant as long as I observed it. Who knows after a few hours.

It ran fine on the way home when I was in more temperate weather. WA, ID, UT. I was in 102 in AZ the first time it shut down. It seems as if the 102 in series with burner heat was just too much for my fridge temp switch.

I have the DM2663. No fan. Might install one.

I have the DM2663 as well. I have had no issues with the fridge tripping the temp switch. I did do some redoing of the fridge cavity insulation but that shouldn't help/cause the issue you are having.

I'll make sure to bring an infrared thermometer with me to Pineknot. It would be good to know what the boiler tube is running as a check. It could be that the temp switch is a little off spec and tripping at too low a temp.

75thRanger · 10-11-2019, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I have the DM2663 as well. I have had no issues with the fridge tripping the temp switch. I did do some redoing of the fridge cavity insulation but that shouldn't help/cause the issue you are having.

I'll make sure to bring an infrared thermometer with me to Pineknot. It would be good to know what the boiler tube is running as a check. It could be that the temp switch is a little off spec and tripping at too low a temp.

The temp switch is very filmsy. I pressed the plugs to ensure they were seated firmly and the @3$$% thing turned sideways!
Gave me a serious case of the red A-s.

Dometic says no recalls concerning this.

One plug to the switch is from the 12v input terminal block and the other leads to the board.

I saw the reset button between the two plugs and had the proverbially 'AH HA' moment.

tdf-texas · 10-11-2019, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75thRanger

The temp switch is very filmsy. I pressed the plugs to ensure they were seated firmly and the @3$$% thing turned sideways!
Gave me a serious case of the red A-s.

Dometic says no recalls concerning this.

One plug to the switch is from the 12v input terminal block and the other leads to the board.

I saw the reset button between the two plugs and had the proverbially 'AH HA' moment.

I wouldn't do this long term but for a test, you might want to jumper the temp switch and see if the fridge straightens out. If the switch is good - no change. If the switch is bad - fridge works fine and you need a new switch.

All assuming that the fridge boiler tube is not overheating - that's why measuring the boiler tube temp is still a good idea.

75thRanger · 10-11-2019, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I wouldn't do this long term but for a test, you might want to jumper the temp switch and see if the fridge straightens out. If the switch is good - no change. If the switch is bad - fridge works fine and you need a new switch.

That occurred to me. If I understand what you are saying correctly, if I bypass the temp switch with jumper, then I remove the temp switch from the equation and the fridge will stay on regardless of the temp.

75thRanger · 10-11-2019, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75thRanger

That occurred to me. If I understand what you are saying correctly, if I bypass the temp switch with jumper, then I remove the temp switch from the equation and the fridge will stay on regardless of the temp.

I read your post again more carefully. I now see what you meant. I knew I could depend on you!

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