Refrigerator won't get cold on propane - Page 2

sharonm3394 · 05-23-2018, 02:43 PM

The brush cleaning seemed to help. I got a good freeze. However, I couldn't get the nut holding the orifice unscrewed. I removed the propane line at the left-hand connection and unscrewed the burner and took it out to get a better grip on the nut. But, it still won't budge. Now I'm thinking I'll just replace this line/burner with a new one. Any ideas?

Ron in BC · 05-23-2018, 04:15 PM

The first thing that I try with a stuck nut, aside from WD40, is heat. Usually a good heat from a torch will make a tough to undo nut easy to remove.

Ron

Greg A · 05-23-2018, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

The first thing that I try with a stuck nut, aside from WD40, is heat. Usually a good heat from a torch will make a tough to undo nut easy to remove.

Ron

That explains why I’ve never had a stuck nut in AZ.

sharonm3394 · 05-24-2018, 08:04 AM

I managed to get the nut off of the burner with help from WD40, cleaned everything really well with solvent. And, SUCCESS! I have a functioning fridge on propane.

Thanks to everyone for your suggestions, videos, advice, etc. The problem-solving in this group is amazing!

Iowa Dave · 05-24-2018, 08:14 AM

In reassembly of parts that I have had difficulty getting apart, I usually give them a little spray of an anti seize compound like never seize or the like. Available at hardware , auto stores, farm stores etc. I seems to help to prevent “corrosion” or bind up especially between two different metals. We used it a lot on paint sprayers after they were cleaned after every use. Saved time and frustration.
Iowa Dave

HABBERDABBER · 05-24-2018, 07:48 PM

Bravo, Sharon.
I wish I could have helped you more the other day, but I was reluctant and afraid I'd break or bugger up your refrig piping. You've got moxie.....sticking with the problem.

Another job, well done!

Pat French · 06-09-2019, 08:29 PM

Hello Escape 17B owners,
We are about to purchase a 2015 17B with an upgraded 4.3 Dometic 8551 fridge. Having read through this thread, we'd like to know whether those of you who have struggled with this fridge have found a resolution. Does it continue to be a problem on propane?

Thanks in advance to anyone who replies.

Pat

MyronL · 06-09-2019, 09:14 PM

Over the years, on this forum, the RM8551 just might be the most discussed fridge Dometic ever made. Do a search on it and that will give you probably more answers than you'd ever want to know.

fudge_brownie · 06-10-2019, 06:49 AM

A clarification perhaps. I believe the Model 8555 has been problematic. I have seen many less the number of comments regarding the 8551. Now , they are related models but differ in size. The 8555 is a 6.7 cu ft model and I can provide reams of solutions, not sure they apply to the 8551.

Do a careful search.

Rossue · 03-10-2020, 05:04 PM

Readying trailer last week for current trip and found that fridge wasn't cooling on propane- wouldn't even light. Removed burner and it didn't seem very dirty and had no rust, etc. flaking off. Worked fine on electric so cooling unit evidently good. Called Dometic and was told it was probably main control board. $736 from Dometic, $500 on Amazon. Not convinced, I tried cleaning burner and pulled and replaced some readily accessible wires. Fridge lit & seemed fixed as next morning my little oven thermometer in the fridge registered 42 degrees.

Had to delay our trip a few days and when I repeated firing up to get cold overnight it wouldn't cool. Had a nice blue flame, yet I couldn't hear it as previously. Called a mobile tech who also predicted the control board. I dug out a two page double-sided Guide to Refrigerator Maintenance that Woodalls had out there and noted that cleaning is recommended annually. It also states that while most people do certain other things- like wheel bearings, brakes, water heater, etc., most so not do anything for their rv refrigerators proactively.

Somewhere in my research about low flame I saw that cleaning the orifice could solve the problem. So I took mine out and looked up at the sky and saw what looked like a tiny hair across the tiny opening. I figured that was the problem and it was. Soaked in alcohol 15 minutes.

Heating the gas line nuts (after propane off and line bleed by lighting stove & water heater) with bbq lighter made them turn easy with 11mm wrench. Removing burner side first and replacing last works best as the fitting to the gas valve is vertical and harder to get at(and easier to crossthread). You have to bend the line a little outward to R & R. The orifice housing required a 9/16" socket and wrench. Heated that up too. Works great now- cooled down to 32 overnight (never seen it that cold ever)after being on for two days at 42 so turned down from 5 to 3.

cpaharley2008 · 03-10-2020, 06:18 PM

So the problem was the hair in the orifice? Glad you got it running properly. I was going to suggest checking your propane pressure next.

MyronL · 03-10-2020, 06:35 PM

My RM8551 struggle continues. Always worked great on shore power, always never reliable or trustable on propane. Done the orifice, blew out lines, jacked up the pressure. We'd get a pilot light but often not robust enough - factor in if chimney is warm, but not hot to touch. Does that sound like a regulator issue? After the last trip I threw in the towel and towed ET19 to Tom's RV service.

His guy agreed the regulator was the problem. New regulator in, fired it up, 5 dots overnight on propane in Tom's lot. Cooled to 33 degrees -all is good. Very good. Tom says come and get it.

I get it home, feeling good, shut all systems down. Next day I'm in there cleaning house and decide to what the hell, turn fridge on, propane, 5 dots. 5 hours later - you guessed it - not cooling. Turn it on and off several times next couple days. No joy. Open freezer door, lay down a filled ice cube tray in there, turn on, 5 dots propane again. Next morning, no cold, no ice, nada.

Maybe the trailer's not level enough, or my thermostat's broke, or .... it's - it's - aargh - just a lemon? No. I refuse to let it beat me,

Tom said, bring it back in. I'll be there. Tomorrow, 8 am.

Rossue · 03-10-2020, 09:44 PM

Or it could be a combination of issues; I did replace my regulator with the original I had replaced after one year during the RML8555 wars. So wouldn't be surprised if once again your orifice isn't completely clear.

LeonW · 03-10-2020, 10:22 PM

Ross,

When we left home on Feb 25 we didn't turn the refrigerator on for a couple of days because it was cold on the way to the South West. We finally turned it on when we hit Wichita, KS. only to find that the temp in the fridge was 60 degrees the next day. So I ended up taking apart the burner and blowing out the orifice with a can of compressed air. After that, it works fine.

It must be time for 2014 trailers to get their orifices cleaned.

Leon

Rossue · 03-10-2020, 11:27 PM

Hi Leon- did you do that without disconnecting the gas line?

LarryandLiz · 03-11-2020, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeonW

Ross,

When we left home on Feb 25 we didn't turn the refrigerator on for a couple of days because it was cold on the way to the South West. We finally turned it on when we hit Wichita, KS. only to find that the temp in the fridge was 60 degrees the next day. So I ended up taking apart the burner and blowing out the orifice with a can of compressed air. After that, it works fine.

It must be time for 2014 trailers to get their orifices cleaned.

Leon

Over winter I read the fridge’s owner manual and I remember that it tells us to clean the orifice something like twice a season.

I’ve cleaned mine. Although it’s overkill, I also purchased a backup orifice.

Larry

cpaharley2008 · 03-11-2020, 04:40 AM

I always thought your dentist fixed your orifice............

alanmalk · 03-11-2020, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rossue

Hi Leon- did you do that without disconnecting the gas line?

I whacked my non-functional burner with a hammer while in the middle of a trip. That worked to get things cooling again. Now that I am home - holding a debate as to whether to take it apart and do the solvent & blow-out operation.
--
Alan

LeonW · 03-11-2020, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rossue

Hi Leon- did you do that without disconnecting the gas line?

I turned the propane off at the regulator, and then let it run out by running the stove and the fridge on propane. once the flame went out I let the fridge cool down and then removed the orifice before I blew it out from the backside. I looked before I blew i out and there was a small particle of dust in the orifice.

it took me a while to get it all apart, mainly because of the tight clearances for wrenches. I think I am going to get a set of small metric gear wrenches when I get home.

Kingfish · 03-11-2020, 02:12 PM

I've cleaned my orifice so many times this past year I can do it on the road in a few minutes. It always starts working as good as new (or as good as it can!) when I do. On the last trip, I discovered that it wasn't the cleaning that was curing the problem, it was taking the pressure off of the line that was letting the valve re-set. I've done it so many times now I can listen to the flame and determine if it is working well.

The last time out I simply turned off the pressure and bled the lines at the stove and it fired right up.

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