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Old 03-11-2020, 04:25 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingfish View Post
I've cleaned my orifice so many times this past year I can do it on the road in a few minutes.
...
Do you happen to recall what size wrenches you used to remove the orifice?
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Old 03-11-2020, 09:50 PM   #42
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9/16 on both sides; used a socket on the left and wrench on right.
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Old 03-11-2020, 10:03 PM   #43
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9/16 on both sides; used a socket on the left and wrench on right.

So Ross, has it consistently worked since you cleaned the orifice? It is amazing how a tiny speck of crap can keep our fridges from cooling. Hope your trip is going well!
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Old 03-11-2020, 10:19 PM   #44
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Hi Bill! The fridge was 32 degrees on 5 yesterday AM. Turned it down to 3 and at 3 PM today after driving 2 hours it was approaching 50, yet after parking I could hear the flame burning and it is at 42. That is average for us.
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Old 03-11-2020, 11:03 PM   #45
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Hi Bill! The fridge was 32 degrees on 5 yesterday AM. Turned it down to 3 and at 3 PM today after driving 2 hours it was approaching 50, yet after parking I could hear the flame burning and it is at 42. That is average for us.
Ross: I wonder if the fridge may have fared better while traveling if you left it on 5 or whatever is max cooling for your model. The manual for our older RM2510 actually states to do this to help prevent flame blow out. Then lower the setting once in camp. Just food for thought.
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Old 03-11-2020, 11:14 PM   #46
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Dave- sorry, I wasn't clear on that. I did set it back to 5 prior to leaving La Quinta today. I just think it blows out on the road. When working on it I could blow it out, yet it would re-light immediately.
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Old 03-12-2020, 07:07 AM   #47
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I had flame blow out issues on my 2014 E21 and installed some furnace filter mesh on the exterior refer vent which seemed to help to stop that air turbulence.
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Old 03-12-2020, 10:30 AM   #48
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Fudge Brownie fashioned a baffle for his 8555D after the furnace filter trick didn't work. I think I am going to try that after I get back home...
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Old 03-12-2020, 01:06 PM   #49
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If you mean the wind deflector placed in front of the burner at an angle- I have that. Am not sure if it really helps or not. Tried the dryer vent down the flue thing and seemed to make things worse so ripped that out. We've had pretty good luck over the last 5 years as long as we don't overload the fridge with stuff. Am thinking for many though the overlooking of regular maintenance could well be the main issue for not cooling when on propane.
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Old 03-12-2020, 01:58 PM   #50
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I have tried a number of filters to prevent flare out while driving. These have included filters at the intake and on the roof. Metal mesh, furnace filters, closed cell foam and others. Even a Dometic design. None did the trick until I used this design from ELongest. When temperatures exceed 90F I remove it while parked. It does not work when there is a direct wind blowing at the lower vent.
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Old 03-12-2020, 08:22 PM   #51
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I have tried a number of filters to prevent flare out while driving. These have included filters at the intake and on the roof. Metal mesh, furnace filters, closed cell foam and others. Even a Dometic design. None did the trick until I used this design from ELongest. When temperatures exceed 90F I remove it while parked. It does not work when there is a direct wind blowing at the lower vent.
Paul, just to be clear, the other day I drove west with a 30-40 MPH wind from the south -- so the apparent wind was pretty much straight at the vent. but you don't think this would have helped?
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Old 03-13-2020, 09:11 AM   #52
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Based on the design shown on the photo, I would say it will not stop a flare out. About a year ago I had a lengthy trip with a wind directly at the vent. Refrigerator temperatures climbed. There was a stretch of about 75 miles when my heading changed to eliminate wind on the vent. My SensorPush in the refrigerator quickly told me the refrigerator started dropping in temperature.

An option would be to make the baffle another inch taller, to more fully cover the burner. There is plenty of air space around so lack of oxygen would not be an issue.

I always wondered if the type/design of the plastic grate on the lower vent was the issue?

Is this your vent design?
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Old 03-13-2020, 10:24 AM   #53
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Do you happen to recall what size wrenches you used to remove the orifice?
I'm pretty sure it required an 11mm and a 14mm open end wrench. I don't have the trailer here to check. The orifice is very small and easy to lose.
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Old 03-13-2020, 03:30 PM   #54
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I'm pretty sure it required an 11mm and a 14mm open end wrench. I don't have the trailer here to check. The orifice is very small and easy to lose.
AND, considering it’s size, EXPENSIVE !!!
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Old 03-13-2020, 05:37 PM   #55
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I'm pretty sure it required an 11mm and a 14mm open end wrench. I don't have the trailer here to check. The orifice is very small and easy to lose.
Still waiting for that elusive warm & sunny 3 day period for an orifice check. (And NO, this has nothing to do with food.)

Thinking that 14mm and 9/16" are pretty close. Would rather not use the wrong size and risk rounding the edges. I'll report back asap.

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Old 03-13-2020, 05:42 PM   #56
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I thought these were small nuts/bolts and already have in my Amazon cart a set of small wrenches/metric/sae, but they stop at 7/16
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...5Z5OFI4X&psc=1
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Old 03-13-2020, 05:50 PM   #57
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When I pulled my gas line off with 11mm to start I used an older wrench I had that was wider than the one in my portable kit. If the wrench is too small without enough surface area on the nut it can start to deform the nut.
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