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Old 03-22-2018, 12:00 PM   #21
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I was just doing some reading on another (big, popular) RV forum. A member did measurements of the temps in his 6 cu ft Dometic in his truck camper last May, and showed a column of figures. Despite ambient temps exceeding 100*, his fridge was staying around 40* on shore power (parked with fridge side shaded) and rising to 55* on LP. But his freezer was staying at zero or below, so he figured he could just freeze some water overnight and move the ice to the fridge in the morning. A 50*-60* difference between fridge and ambient sounded really impressive, though.

But then he bought a different (preowned) camper. Same model of 6 cu ft Dometic, but different camper. And in August he reported that his new-to-him fridge was only in the mid 50s while driving in mild (70s) weather!

My take: I think if construction and installation of an absorption fridge is just right, and if the unit is working optimally within its design (not low on ammonia, etc, etc), it is possible to achieve excellent cooling. But the odds of getting everything just perfect... and keeping it that way... are downright slim! Using an absorption refrigerator in an RV during hot weather might be a bit like playing roulette, with food instead of colored chips.
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Old 03-22-2018, 02:05 PM   #22
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My take: I think if construction and installation of an absorption fridge is just right, and if the unit is working optimally within its design (not low on ammonia, etc, etc), it is possible to achieve excellent cooling. But the odds of getting everything just perfect... and keeping it that way... are downright slim!
Agreed. As per my thread I linked to in post #2 my refrigerator install once studied closely had two major deficiencies as far as I could tell. One was the voids at the top and sides of fridge and one was the lack of the external fan. This comes directly from Dometic installation instructions. I think ETI did what they considered reasonable at the time and the 19 was a new model back in 2009. Maintaining the required natural convection across the condenser is easier with a top mount vent for sure, which ETI is doing now on the models where it is possible. They are also insulating better.

For sidewall top vent installations the Dometic literature specifically states to increase the dimension from the bottom of the lower vent (floor) to the top of the upper vent for more efficient operation at warmer temperatures. Many Casitas had problems because (at least as far as I can tell) the condenser was located at about the mid-span of the upper vent. In some cases the single exterior fans are mounted wrong or don't have enough volume. So just having a fan is not a panacea. Dual fans mounted up high similar to what I have done have helped some of these owners.

Fingers crossed for a 50-60 degF differential this summer.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/dometicventing.pdf
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Old 03-22-2018, 03:14 PM   #23
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I also have a 2002 Four Wheel Camper popup truck camper that I use for the backcountry. I've had it for two years and since it's mostly a weekend toy I didn't try the fridge until last summer. Didn't cool worth beans on gas. Haven't tried shore power yet. But from what the last few posts have pointed out....I likely need to pull it, clean the flue, insulate the cr*p out of it and add a fin fan for the back. Might need to recharge the ammonia if that's possible. Then if it doesn't work I'll buy a Norcold since Dometic doesn't make 1.7 cu ft RV fridges anymore. So thanks to those who contributed to this thread.
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Old 03-23-2018, 08:03 AM   #24
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I just noticed the picture in post #22 is horrible. Here is a different one showing a condenser (on an older Casita) with no room to vent properly without a fan. Hopefully this one is better.
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Old 03-23-2018, 11:53 AM   #25
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Might need to recharge the ammonia if that's possible. Then if it doesn't work I'll buy a Norcold since Dometic doesn't make 1.7 cu ft RV .
It is my understanding that you can not recharge the ammonia. I have also been told that if you do not use the fridge for a long time that the ammonia crystallizes and blocks the tubes which can’t be fixed.
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:07 PM   #26
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Then if it doesn't work I'll buy a Norcold since Dometic doesn't make 1.7 cu ft RV fridges anymore. So thanks to those who contributed to this thread.
I can't say I'm a huge fan of Dometic fridges in general and I'm not sure if this helps, but it looks like they still make a 1.9 CF.

www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/food-and-beverage/refrigeration/refrigerators/dometic-compact-refrigerator-_-30914
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Old 03-23-2018, 02:58 PM   #27
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It is my understanding that you can not recharge the ammonia. I have also been told that if you do not use the fridge for a long time that the ammonia crystallizes and blocks the tubes which can’t be fixed.
I had no idea ammonia would crystallize....and no idea how long it's been since the fridge has been used either. At least two years and given it's 15 yrs old that might have done it.
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Old 03-23-2018, 02:58 PM   #28
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I can't say I'm a huge fan of Dometic fridges in general and I'm not sure if this helps, but it looks like they still make a 1.9 CF.

www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/food-and-beverage/refrigeration/refrigerators/dometic-compact-refrigerator-_-30914
Dang! I think this might fit! And I get .2 more cu ft! Thanks!
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Old 03-24-2018, 09:28 AM   #29
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.....What I hear they definitely won’t do is omit the outside refrigerator openings in the shell......
I wonder why?? I assume the holes are cut afterwards? If I were to order a 5.0TA (love to someday) it would be HUGE if they didn't cut the holes!! Even if they sold it w/o a fridge and I installed a compressor fridge myself.....
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Old 03-24-2018, 09:40 AM   #30
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I wonder why?? I assume the holes are cut afterwards? If I were to order a 5.0TA (love to someday) it would be HUGE if they didn't cut the holes!! Even if they sold it w/o a fridge and I installed a compressor fridge myself.....
An owner asked ETI in late 2017 and shared some info:
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post218716
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