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Old 03-26-2022, 09:20 AM   #1
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Renogy Portable Solar

For my birthday this year my wife bought me a 100 watt portable Renogy solar suitcase. I'd like to install a quick connect plug somewhere so that I don't have to remove the battery box lids and use the alligator clips every time I want to connect the solar. I'm not sure what connection to buy or exactly how to wire it. I've done a bit of looking but its all very confusing for some reason. I'm sure this has been done before and I'm sure I could handle the installation with a little direction. If there is a thread discussing this I'd be happy to be directed to it.

Thanks
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Old 03-26-2022, 10:03 AM   #2
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I believe Renogy uses MC4 connectors between the the output of their solar controller & the battery clamps. I don't like using the MC4 connector as a multi use connector, so I'd either change to the more often used SAE connector or purchase an adapter. Either way you now have a more useful connector coming out of the solar controller.

For the battery side, if you have a pair of 6V batteries, you will need to make a connection in each battery box. There is a jumper that goes between the batteries. You want to use the - and + connections that are not the jumper. If there is room, a surface mount SAE connector could be mounted in one of the battery boxes with a jumper supplied by you going to the correct pole of the battery in the other box. You could also use a in line SAE connector & let it hang out of the box. A neater but more involved connection would be to tap into the plus and minus connections at the converter & mount a surface mount SAE connector in the back face of the trailer. Of course this requires drilling a hole in the trailer, something that many are not willing to do.

Check the polarity of the connections before connecting - don't depend on the wire colors on the various connectors.
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Old 03-26-2022, 01:25 PM   #3
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Here's a picture of the optional factory SAE connector. Front, drivers side of an E19.

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Old 03-26-2022, 02:01 PM   #4
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Why so?

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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
I don't like using the MC4 connector as a multi use connector, so I'd either change to the more often used SAE connector or purchase an adapter. Either way you now have a more useful connector coming out of the solar controller.
What are your reasons for this preference? Are there technical issues of one over the other?
Just curious, as I find the MC4 more of a watertight, positive locking connection.
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Old 03-26-2022, 02:18 PM   #5
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What are your reasons for this preference? Are there technical issues of one over the other?
Just curious, as I find the MC4 more of a watertight, positive locking connection.
After a couple years of use our SAE connectors work just fine and have had plenty of rain in use. Neither MC4 or Anderson connectors are robust enough when stepped on. BTDT!

We have three 15' SAE connectors and have only used the third one time, but we needed it. Last summer I installed 300 additional watts to the roof and have yet to take the Renogy 100 watt portable out of it's carrying case.

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 03-26-2022, 02:19 PM   #6
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What are your reasons for this preference? Are there technical issues of one over the other?
Just curious, as I find the MC4 more of a watertight, positive locking connection.
MC4 doesn't come in a bulkhead connector from what I am aware of. This is assuming you want a bulkhead connection, which is going to be the cleanest way to go.

Edit. I think I'm MC4 until the final connection at the trailer.
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Old 03-26-2022, 04:39 PM   #7
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I did some more looking and found this option. There is a video at the bottom of this page detailing how to make an adapter for plugging the solar panel into the trailer to TV pigtail. Seams pretty simple and easy. anybody see any problem with going this route?

Connecting the Suitcase Solar Panel to a RV.
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Old 03-26-2022, 04:50 PM   #8
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A neater but more involved connection would be to tap into the plus and minus connections at the converter & mount a surface mount SAE connector in the back face of the trailer.
I think this is my second favorite option. And the thing I was thinking I would try to do. Just wasn't sure where to connect into the wiring. Don't mid putting a hole in my trailer if its for a good and permanent cause.
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Old 03-26-2022, 05:00 PM   #9
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Electrical diagrams here. If you click on the small pics it makes them bigger.

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...ams-19980.html

Only downside to Furrion bulkhead shown is that it only appears to be rated for 10 amps. This would cover your 100W suitcase, but more than 10 amps would be nice for future amperage. Not sure what the SAE is good for, but my MC4 to SAE adapter is listed at 30 amps.
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Old 03-26-2022, 05:09 PM   #10
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I installed a waterproof 'marine trolling motor' jack on the curb side rear of my E21 wired with 10/2 and a 40A fuse directly into my battery main bus bars (which are fused 100A to each LFP battery). the trolling motor plug has a Anderson PP45 on the other side of a 10/2 pigtail
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Old 03-26-2022, 05:36 PM   #11
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Actually, I prefer Anderson PowerPole connectors over both MC4s & SAE connectors, but the Anderson require investing in a specific crimping tool & learning how to assemble them, so unless someone is going to use them for other purposes, the SAE makes more sense. I find the PowerPole connectors hold up longer than the SAE connectors (the rubber in the SAE connectors tends to harden from UV exposure) and the MC4 are not really designed to be connected & unconnected over & over. Most require a tool to disconnect them.

I use the 30 amp PowerPole version for almost anywhere I want a 12V disconnect.
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Old 03-26-2022, 06:02 PM   #12
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Actually, I prefer Anderson PowerPole connectors over both MC4s & SAE connectors, but the Anderson require investing in a specific crimping tool & learning how to assemble them, so unless someone is going to use them for other purposes, the SAE makes more sense. I find the PowerPole connectors hold up longer than the SAE connectors (the rubber in the SAE connectors tends to harden from UV exposure) and the MC4 are not really designed to be connected & unconnected over & over. Most require a tool to disconnect them.

I use the 30 amp PowerPole version for almost anywhere I want a 12V disconnect.
I've been able to crimp PP15 (AWG 16-20) and PP30 (AWG 12-14) with a generic Panduit CT260 crimper, but the specific Tri-Crimp crimper is nearly a must for PP45 (AWG 10).

one thing I really like about powerpole is that the PP15, 30, and 45 can be interconnected as long as your actual load doesn't exceed the capacity of the lightest wire in the loop.
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Old 03-26-2022, 06:11 PM   #13
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Seems to be a lot of trouble and expense to go to to avoid taking the lid off the battery box ( on the rear bumper ) and connecting the alligator clips.
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Old 03-26-2022, 07:01 PM   #14
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Says you

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Seems to be a lot of trouble and expense to go to to avoid taking the lid off the battery box ( on the rear bumper ) and connecting the alligator clips.
Sure, for a "legacy" E17, your method is reasonable. But all the rigs are different. Batteries in front storage boxes, batteries in dinette storage comparments, 6V batteries, lithium batteries, batteries all about the rig.

That's when connectors become important.
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Old 03-26-2022, 07:05 PM   #15
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my back bumper has two ebikes, and the spare.
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Old 03-26-2022, 07:05 PM   #16
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OP has a 2011 17B.
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Old 03-26-2022, 07:08 PM   #17
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OP has a 2011 17B.
Yep. But it has 2 6 volt and taking those darn straps off is a pain in the you know what as well. Anyway I like having an excuse to do a mod.
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Old 03-26-2022, 07:15 PM   #18
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and, btw, my outside DC connector is mostly to be able to run stuff like USB chargers, ebike chargers, etc outside. also to run my 'boom box' (car stereo in a wooden box) that I use for music festival FM radio. My rooftop solar is plenty adequate for my charging needs, but yes, I could plug my portable 100W in too.
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Old 04-21-2022, 10:11 AM   #19
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Other than positive to positive, does it matter which positive/negative battery post I connect my solar leads to on my 2 12v batteries in a parallel configuration? Thanks
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Old 04-21-2022, 10:25 AM   #20
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7 pin

I am looking at this same suitcase. However I am leaning towards the solar being hooked up and into the 7 pin. This places the solar at the front of the trailer which receives the most sun. Has anyone done this?
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