Replacing the propane detector - not fun!

[yardsale]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I've seen wire nuts fall right off in RVs.

Suitable connection methods include crimping, soldering (if you do a proper linesman's splice, which is rarely done and far more trouble than it's worth), or using set-screw (not twist-on) type connectors (such as those from Marr). If twist-on wire nuts are used, at the very least tape them, which will last until the tape dries out and falls off in a few years.

I did tape them. Also worry that the connection is not isolated from stuff I might store in there

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I think listening to the propane alarm at any time of the day or night would be irritating.

You are absolutely correct. Not only irritating but frustrating as well.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by dattoll2

I hope you let ETI know

If you are referring to false alarms, there are several old threads where this problem has been discussed. A search should bring them up. I suspect that the relocation of the alarm to the angled portion of the first step in the 5.0TA was a result of the problem. It has been my experience that ETI makes every attempt to respond to and correct reported issues, and they often adopt as standard customization from build sheets when they perceive someone’s request to be an improvement.

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

On ealier... Apparently there were some issues with offgassing from the batteries causing alarms because it was so close so they moved it up front to the step.

Sounds like it is worth a try if I move mine...

I had planned to move it before but found the unit looked like a sealed "box" with the openings only on the cabin side of the unit; didn't see how off gassing was the problem. Will move it further away to see what it does. Thanks for mentioning it David.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by dattoll2

I hope you let ETI know

You need to say who or what you are responding to or to quote the post because other posts may appear before you respond to the one you are referring to.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by yardsale

I did tape them. Also worry that the connection is not isolated from stuff I might store in there

Wire spade connectors, if you ever want to replace the detector. Then use R-type clip fasteners to the hold the wire along the cabinetry.

[Perry Butler]

One benefit of placing the detector on the angled portion of the bottom step is, it's a great nightlight for when you're going down the steps, so you can see where that angle is at.

Enjoy,

Perry

Written at Rusty's, near the east Chiricahua's.

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Also add connectors so you can easily remove after you remove screws to change out . Also add connectors to detector .

Yep, Dirk did that and he said next time it goes out "even you can change it".

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I applied some pressure to the gap at the top of the panel and pulled it loose from the compartment, opening access to the area. It's attached with a little glue and staples but with care will come off in one piece. I used some velcro strips to reattach the panel so I would have access later.

I also found trash back there - it seems to be a favorite place for the workers to leave stuff.

Well, pooey, wish we had known this! Dirk did ask about that panel but I said it was all the way to the top of the compartment so he couldn't put his hand over it to access that small area. We never thought about removing it.


Good to know we're not the only ones with leftover trash, but you'd think someone would inspect for that sort of thing before that area got sealed up. As well as pride in work. But, I digress.

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

On earlier 5.0TA's the propane detector was on the bottom panel of the cabinet below the fridge next to the dinette bench - that's why that lower cabinet door doesn't go all the way to the corner. Apparently there were some issues with offgassing from the batteries causing alarms because it was so close so they moved it up front to the step.

The kitchen/dinette area is the same on the 5.0TA and 21, so I wonder if that was causing problems with ours. Ours is below the fridge. And yeah, it kept waking me up one night, several hours apart. I really wish there was a mute button on the thing, but I understand why there isn't. It'd finally go off, I'd just get back to sleep and it'd go off again. After about the 3rd or 4th time I snipped the wires, I was so pissed off about it.

Originally Posted by dattoll2

I hope you let ETI know

Which post is this directed to? I figure ETI doesn't care that it's such a bitch (least for the 21) to replace as they're not in the business of doing work like that. I once told Reace I wish they did regular maintenance work on their trailers, such as greasing the hubs and he said they didn't want to do work like that due to liability issues. As far as I know they only do warranty work and I know that propane detector would not follow under that category. So, I figured they don't care about replaceability on it.


But with the new owners, I don't know if they have plans for regular service as I've not kept up on what all is going on with them. Be nice if they did!

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

I once told Reace I wish they did regular maintenance work on their trailers, such as greasing the hubs and he said they didn't want to do work like that due to liability issues.

In any event, ETI is in the business of building trailers. How many owners in Texas would bring their trailers for routine maintenance anyway? It's an hour and a half drive from my place to ETI and I take my trailer to North Shore RV for maintenance, five minutes away.

I doubt the real reason was liability issues. The real reason would be it made no sense.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

Yep, Dirk did that and he said next time it goes out "even you can change it".





Well, pooey, wish we had known this! Dirk did ask about that panel but I said it was all the way to the top of the compartment so he couldn't put his hand over it to access that small area. We never thought about removing it.


Good to know we're not the only ones with leftover trash, but you'd think someone would inspect for that sort of thing before that area got sealed up. As well as pride in work. But, I digress.





The kitchen/dinette area is the same on the 5.0TA and 21, so I wonder if that was causing problems with ours. Ours is below the fridge. And yeah, it kept waking me up one night, several hours apart. I really wish there was a mute button on the thing, but I understand why there isn't. It'd finally go off, I'd just get back to sleep and it'd go off again. After about the 3rd or 4th time I snipped the wires, I was so pissed off about it.





Which post is this directed to? I figure ETI doesn't care that it's such a bitch (least for the 21) to replace as they're not in the business of doing work like that. I once told Reace I wish they did regular maintenance work on their trailers, such as greasing the hubs and he said they didn't want to do work like that due to liability issues. As far as I know they only do warranty work and I know that propane detector would not follow under that category. So, I figured they don't care about replaceability on it.


But with the new owners, I don't know if they have plans for regular service as I've not kept up on what all is going on with them. Be nice if they did!

Laura good Dirk fixed it . If the darn thing goes off again just remove the two screws holding the detector and undo the connectors . I thought about adding a on and off switch but we never have had problems with it . Pat

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

One benefit of placing the detector on the angled portion of the bottom step is, it's a great nightlight for when you're going down the steps, so you can see where that angle is at.

We just place our small, rectangular wastebasket (IKEA) on the second step above the angle cut. Since you get out of the bed in the 5.0TA by crawling backwards or by first sitting on the edge, if your foot contacts the wastebasket on the way down you immediately know you are over the “void.” Since we started doing this, neither one of us has taken “a giant leap for mankind” (Neil Armstrong).

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Laura good Dirk fixed it . If the darn thing goes off again just remove the two screws holding the detector and undo the connectors . I thought about adding a on and off switch but we never have had problems with it . Pat

Neither did I when the trailer was new. But after 3 nights in a row when the trailer was 6 months old, I did add a switch after determining propane leakage was not the cause. I don’t consider the switch a problem because when the alarm is on, it has a fairly bright LED. A quick glance tells me if it is on or off. I void thinking or saying never. Basically, if there is a first time you will be extremely glad you installed a switch so that you can silence it while you investigate the cause. I went through hours and hours of diagnostics which included valving off the tank and purging the propane lines, calling the manufacturer, etc., yet the alarm still went off. I replaced the alarm and the new one did the same thing. As I stated in an earlier post, I have found that switching off the battery switch has eliminated the concern when on shore power. When boondocking, it doesn’t matter as the converter is not active and cannot go into boost mode.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

On earlier 5.0TA's the propane detector was on the bottom panel of the cabinet below the fridge next to the dinette bench - that's why that lower cabinet door doesn't go all the way to the corner. Apparently there were some issues with offgassing from the batteries causing alarms because it was so close so they moved it up front to the step.

This was the location on the early new model 5.0TAs for sure. I wanted larger storage there so moved the sensor over to the bench. I know the floor there is 3" higher, but I am fine with it. I have always had AGMs, so no off gassing at all.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

Neither did I when the trailer was new. But after 3 nights in a row when the trailer was 6 months old, I did add a switch after determining propane leakage was not the cause. I don’t consider the switch a problem because when the alarm is on, it has a fairly bright LED. A quick glance tells me if it is on or off. I void thinking or saying never. Basically, if there is a first time you will be extremely glad you installed a switch so that you can silence it while you investigate the cause. I went through hours and hours of diagnostics which included valving off the tank and purging the propane lines, calling the manufacturer, etc., yet the alarm still went off. I replaced the alarm and the new one did the same thing. As I stated in an earlier post, I have found that switching off the battery switch has eliminated the concern when on shore power. When boondocking, it doesn’t matter as the converter is not active and cannot go into boost mode.

Yes will definitely add switch if ever a problem . We have a 19 with luckily batteries outside not inside , may be why not a issue for us . But Laura has a 21 with battles inside . So hopefully the detector just needing changing out . Pat

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

As I stated in an earlier post, I have found that switching off the battery switch has eliminated the concern when on shore power.

And I thank you for mentioning that. And I shall hopefully remember that if the stinking thing starts going on in the wee hours and I've determined there aren't any other problems. Although my brain might be a bit fuzzy from lack of sleep to remember right away. It'll be more like "there was something someone posted, now what the heck was it?" sort of situation, I'm sure.


Yep, will add that to my manual's information.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

And I thank you for mentioning that. And I shall hopefully remember that if the stinking thing starts going on in the wee hours and I've determined there aren't any other problems. Although my brain might be a bit fuzzy from lack of sleep to remember right away. It'll be more like "there was something someone posted, now what the heck was it?" sort of situation, I'm sure.


Yep, will add that to my manual's information.

Laura have Dirk add a on and off switch . Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Wire spade connectors, if you ever want to replace the detector. Then use R-type clip fasteners to the hold the wire along the cabinetry.

Donna those are great and in my world a must have ! Pat

[DonM]

After 7 years mine has gone as well. Is this a easy to find replacement or an item to order from ETI?

[gbaglo]

Meridian RV should have in stock. Pick one up on your way to the Gillnetter pub.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by DonM

After 7 years mine has gone as well. Is this a easy to find replacement or an item to order from ETI?

This is what Escape originally used if you have the rectangular combination propane/CO detector:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GSFTSE...roduct_details