Replacing the propane detector - not fun!

[NW Cat Owner]

We're in the process of replacing the propane detector. It's not been a fun project for Dirk. He would have been done by now, but he's also adding in a 12 volt outlet at the same time.


Let's just say whoever designed the area behind the detector did not design it for easy replacement of the device. You can't reach the ends of the wires, so they had to be snipped. Dirk got some sort of splitter/connector thingie to attach to the original wires, then to the wires of the 12 volt connector and then to the wires of the new detector.


You can barely fit your hand in that space, much less do any work. I know, as I tried before I gave up and asked Dirk to do it. You have to lay on the floor while doing all that work and you can't see what the heck you're doing. There isn't any way to access that area from another area, such as from the space under the dinette. Nor could we find where the ends of the wire went.


And he found a bunch of trash in that space - pieces of cut wood, wads of putty and rolled up red painter's type tape. Not cool that the workers didn't clear up their debris when they were finished in that area. Least it's not in the fuel tanks like on the Boeing planes!


I'd like to know what ETI was thinking when they designed that. And how the heck others have replaced theirs. Yes, those detectors are supposed to last 7 years but I've done some reading on it and not all of them last that long. Ours sure didn't! However, when we have to replace this one all I'll need to do is pull the wires out of the connector (after unscrewing the detector from the wall, of course) and put in the new wires. Why it wasn't done this way in the first place I'll never know. (Okay, save time and money, I guess, but what about when it needs replacing? Not cool.)

[gbaglo]

Different trailer, but I simply cut the wires as close to the detector as I could, and pushed them through the hole in the bench. I pushed the wires from the new detector through the same hole and connected them to the old wires.

I could have used a bit more slack wire in ETI's installation, but then I'd have to complain it wasn't tidy.

[NW Cat Owner]

So, you can access it from the area under the dinette? Lucky you! Not us.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

So, you can access it from the area under the dinette? Lucky you! Not us.

Yup. But, you can't put the detector just anywhere. It needs to be near the floor and away from drafts ( like the door ). Don't remember more than that, but installation instructions come with it and limit where it can go.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

We're in the process of replacing the propane detector. It's not been a fun project for Dirk. He would have been done by now, but he's also adding in a 12 volt outlet at the same time.


Let's just say whoever designed the area behind the detector did not design it for easy replacement of the device. You can't reach the ends of the wires, so they had to be snipped. Dirk got some sort of splitter/connector thingie to attach to the original wires, then to the wires of the 12 volt connector and then to the wires of the new detector.


You can barely fit your hand in that space, much less do any work. I know, as I tried before I gave up and asked Dirk to do it. You have to lay on the floor while doing all that work and you can't see what the heck you're doing. There isn't any way to access that area from another area, such as from the space under the dinette. Nor could we find where the ends of the wire went.


And he found a bunch of trash in that space - pieces of cut wood, wads of putty and rolled up red painter's type tape. Not cool that the workers didn't clear up their debris when they were finished in that area. Least it's not in the fuel tanks like on the Boeing planes!


I'd like to know what ETI was thinking when they designed that. And how the heck others have replaced theirs. Yes, those detectors are supposed to last 7 years but I've done some reading on it and not all of them last that long. Ours sure didn't! However, when we have to replace this one all I'll need to do is pull the wires out of the connector (after unscrewing the detector from the wall, of course) and put in the new wires. Why it wasn't done this way in the first place I'll never know. (Okay, save time and money, I guess, but what about when it needs replacing? Not cool.)

Well hi Laura ! Yes not cool the trash and stuff . Yes found the detector wires and the wires for the heater control very short and tight ! Just add more wire will solve that . Also because made another cabinet where our detector was originally , wasted space that could be better used ,moved it to kitchen cabinet on other side . Also add connectors so you can easily remove after you remove screws to change out . Also add connectors to detector . We did change ours out a few months ago . You just reminded me some of my pet peeves ! Pat

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

So, you can access it from the area under the dinette? Lucky you! Not us.

Just to the right of the propane detector on our trailers is a small storage compartment. The left side panel of that compartment is adjacent to the area where the propane detector is installed.

I applied some pressure to the gap at the top of the panel and pulled it loose from the compartment, opening access to the area. It's attached with a little glue and staples but with care will come off in one piece. I used some velcro strips to reattach the panel so I would have access later.

I also found trash back there - it seems to be a favorite place for the workers to leave stuff.

Opening that area gave me access to the hoses that run through it along with the propane detector - glad I did it.

It also seems to be an area that doesn't get much love from the person that runs the wiring. If you open this up, you might want to take a look at the crimp connections - several of mine were bad.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Just to the right of the propane detector on our trailers is a small storage compartment. The left side panel of that compartment is adjacent to the area where the propane detector is installed.

I applied some pressure to the gap at the top of the panel and pulled it loose from the compartment, opening access to the area. It's attached with a little glue and staples but with care will come off in one piece. I used some velcro strips to reattach the panel so I would have access later.

I also found trash back there - it seems to be a favorite place for the workers to leave stuff.

Opening that area gave me access to the hoses that run through it along with the propane detector - glad I did it.

It also seems to be an area that doesn't get much love from the person that runs the wiring. If you open this up, you might want to take a look at the crimp connections - several of mine were bad.

Excellent advice Tom . Working around the trailer found the paneling very easy to remove .
Pretty sad in there Pat

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Well hi Laura ! Yes not cool the trash and stuff . Yes found the detector wires and the wires for the heater control very short and tight ! Just add more wire will solve that . Also because made another cabinet where our detector was originally , wasted space that could be better used ,moved it to kitchen cabinet on other side . Also add connectors so you can easily remove after you remove screws to change out . Also add connectors to detector . We did change ours out a few months ago . You just reminded me some of my pet peeves ! Pat

Agree with this, wires are too tight! On advice from TDF-Texas I checked polarity on the plugs last fall and found one plug flipped. Had to move the wire run to get the "short wire" to reach the plug in the flipped connection position.

[yardsale]

We had easy access in our 17b by flipping up the front bench. Took about 10 minutes. I connected the new unit with wire nuts. Not sure if that is recommended.

[ritacasita]

Originally Posted by yardsale

I connected the new unit with wire nuts.

Wire nuts can come loose with vibration. Keep an eye on them or perhaps tape wrap so they won’t unscrew.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by yardsale

I connected the new unit with wire nuts. Not sure if that is recommended.

Originally Posted by ritacasita

Wire nuts can come loose with vibration. Keep an eye on them or perhaps tape wrap so they won’t unscrew.

I've seen wire nuts fall right off in RVs.

Suitable connection methods include crimping, soldering (if you do a proper linesman's splice, which is rarely done and far more trouble than it's worth), or using set-screw (not twist-on) type connectors (such as those from Marr). If twist-on wire nuts are used, at the very least tape them, which will last until the tape dries out and falls off in a few years.

[Bobbie54]

I had trouble- no extra wire, don't recall how we solved it- but it was accessible by lifting the dinette bench. Definitely something that should be changed, though, knowing it needs regular replacement.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Yup. But, you can't put the detector just anywhere. It needs to be near the floor and away from drafts ( like the door ). Don't remember more than that, but installation instructions come with it and limit where it can go.

The LP detector on our 2018 5.0 is on the angled portion of the lower step facing the door.

Are we facing imminent death?

Can our heirs sue ETI?

Enjoy,

Perry

[davidmurphy02]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

The LP detector on our 2018 5.0 is on the angled portion of the lower step facing the door.

On earlier 5.0TA's the propane detector was on the bottom panel of the cabinet below the fridge next to the dinette bench - that's why that lower cabinet door doesn't go all the way to the corner. Apparently there were some issues with offgassing from the batteries causing alarms because it was so close so they moved it up front to the step.

[gbaglo]

I think the issue with being near the door is drafts, but my copy of the installation pamphlet is in the trailer and I'm busy watching curling. You'll have to dig out your own, which I'm sure you kept.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

On earlier 5.0TA's the propane detector was on the bottom panel of the cabinet below the fridge next to the dinette bench - that's why that lower cabinet door doesn't go all the way to the corner. Apparently there were some issues with offgassing from the batteries causing alarms because it was so close so they moved it up front to the step.

Actually, on the earliest 5.0 TAs, the propane detector is located on the passenger side dinette bench wall on the end closest to the stove. This put it in close proximity to the battery box (approximately 2+ feet) resulting in false alarms whenever the batteries released minor amounts of hydrogen. This happened when the converter went into boost mode. It’s really a joy to be blasted awake and out of bed at 2:00 am or thereabouts (3 days in a row). Switching to AGM batteries helps, but I have found that turning off the battery switch when connected to shore power eliminates the problem. The solar panel keeps the batteries charged, and additional charging current from the converter is unnecessary.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

On earlier 5.0TA's the propane detector was on the bottom panel of the cabinet below the fridge next to the dinette bench - that's why that lower cabinet door doesn't go all the way to the corner. Apparently there were some issues with offgassing from the batteries causing alarms because it was so close so they moved it up front to the step.

Not on mine and I've got the 10th 5.0TA built. It's in the passenger dinette bench. But, I also have a u-shape dinette. Since there's nothing in that bench, changing the propane detector won't be a PITA as others have found out... although the wiring does look pretty taut.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I think the issue with being near the door is drafts, but my copy of the installation pamphlet is in the trailer and I'm busy watching curling. You'll have to dig out your own, which I'm sure you kept.

Perhaps, but the door would typically be closed at night when the occupants are sleeping, eliminating any drafts when propane detector function is most critical.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

Perhaps, but the door would typically be closed at night when the occupants are sleeping, eliminating any drafts when propane detector function is most critical.

I think listening to the propane alarm at any time of the day or night would be irritating.

[dattoll2]

I hope you let ETI know