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Old 07-10-2015, 08:21 PM   #41
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Mike
Mine moves maybe 1/8" but using the dollar bill test it doesn't seem to loose it's seal. I didn't look to see if it adjusts.
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Old 07-10-2015, 08:41 PM   #42
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Okay, I found the problem-- the latch is a bit too tight, not too loose, and I wasn't shutting the freezer door forcefully enough, thus allowing it to come open. As long as I remember to give it an extra push after I shut the door I should be okay. Dang!
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Old 07-10-2015, 10:23 PM   #43
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The receiver part of the freezer door latch mechanism has a U-shaped piece of plastic whose ends were sticking out from the rest of the mechanism. Its position is controlled by a tab that sticks out to the side. I did something (I don't know what) that caused the ends of this U-shaped thing to retreat into the latch mechanism. Now the freezer door shuts as Bob described, with a little play but sealed well. It shuts securely now with little effort, so I'm not messing with it anymore.
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Old 07-10-2015, 11:25 PM   #44
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Hey Mike- that tab is so you can lock it or not. When not it supposedly closes with the "magnet close" or something. Also, when you're storing it you can deploy the tab down so that the doors stay slightly ajar, thus helping to prevent mold.
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Old 07-10-2015, 11:29 PM   #45
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Then that's it-- the freezer was in "storage mode", which is why I could pull the door open a bit. Right now I still have to depress the latch on either door to get it to open, which is what I want. So far so good.
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:02 AM   #46
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The storage mode has a tab that when depressed pushed a "U" shaped plastic tab out that prevents closure and allows air to circulate, while in "Storage".
Then there is the button latch which can be bypassed for ease of opening thereby only allowing the magnetic seal to keep the door closed shut. I use this method once I reach my destination and the door is opened frequently, thereby eliminating the need to depress the button latch.
Otherwise with the button latch in operation, the door has a "deadbolt" type mechanism keeping it shut via the magnetic seal and the button latch.
This is the operation on the single door model which I assume also exists on the dual door model.
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Old 07-11-2015, 01:05 PM   #47
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Does anyone know at what temp the fan/s in the back are supposed to go on? It's 97 in the space behind the fridge and nothing as yet.
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Old 07-11-2015, 01:19 PM   #48
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The storage mode has a tab that when depressed pushed a "U" shaped plastic tab out that prevents closure and allows air to circulate, while in "Storage".
Then there is the button latch which can be bypassed for ease of opening thereby only allowing the magnetic seal to keep the door closed shut. I use this method once I reach my destination and the door is opened frequently, thereby eliminating the need to depress the button latch.
Otherwise with the button latch in operation, the door has a "deadbolt" type mechanism keeping it shut via the magnetic seal and the button latch.
This is the operation on the single door model which I assume also exists on the dual door model.
Right. Same features on the two door. I took these for another thread some time ago - forget the topic.
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Old 07-11-2015, 02:17 PM   #49
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Right. Same features on the two door. I took these for another thread some time ago - forget the topic.
Yes. The photo on the left shows the U-shaped piece extended. When in this position the door will pull open a bit. I managed to get that part retracted into the rest of the mechanism, and it seems to work okay now. If it behaves for another day or so I'll start putting food into it again.
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Old 07-11-2015, 02:43 PM   #50
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Does anyone know at what temp the fan/s in the back are supposed to go on? It's 97 in the space behind the fridge and nothing as yet.
Hope is not what our rm 8551 was at 150 degrees . Never heard it come on . Pat
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:03 PM   #51
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The photo on the left shows the U-shaped piece extended. When in this position the door will pull open a bit.
Or more accurately, the door will not shut. That's by design.
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:18 PM   #52
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My single door unit had -0- fans, the new one has 2 fans, an upper and lower unit.
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:33 PM   #53
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Or more accurately, the door will not shut. That's by design.
Yeah, it appears to be closed when really it isn't latched. That's what had me fooled.
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Old 07-12-2015, 12:11 AM   #54
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My 2 door fridge Americana has worked for 14 years without problems. Your new 2 door fridges should work well.
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Old 07-12-2015, 09:55 PM   #55
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Now that Dometic has decided to replace the RML8 series with an RMD8, I have to wonder why this never entered into the issue. Basically it makes me think they figured out the RML8 series was just not a sound design for the North American market................

There's even a flue kit with a Dometic part number.

Essential information to select correct vents - Dometic Flue Kit including T Piece, required for fridges over 100 litres
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:00 AM   #56
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Interesting reading Charlie, I'm curious about that side vent vent combo with the ceiling exhaust vent, why both?
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Old 07-13-2015, 01:29 PM   #57
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side vent for the burner, top for the condenser?
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Old 07-13-2015, 02:06 PM   #58
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side vent for the burner, top for the condenser?
Exactly, the flue gas/heat is vented out the side and away from the back of the fridge area making it easier to keep cool. I am just in the process of trying to order the vent kit and have it delivered to Canada.

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Old 07-13-2015, 02:17 PM   #59
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Exactly, the flue gas/heat is vented out the side and away from the back of the fridge area making it easier to keep cool. I am just in the process of trying to order the vent kit and have it delivered to Canada.

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Might be worth a call to ETI. Reace might be able to get them.

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Old 07-13-2015, 02:20 PM   #60
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So why isn't Dometic requesting that we have the dealer installing these side vents in the new 2 door switch over?
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