RMD8555 fridge stopped working on propane :(

[John in Santa Cruz]

my RMD8555 won't light on propane, but works fine on 120VAC. Got plenty of propane in the system, the furnace runs fine, as does the water heater, and stove/oven. When I push the gas button on the fridge, it pauses a second or two, I hear a faint click, then it beeps/alerts. push the reset button, a second later, a click and immediately beep beep. I can see it spark once each time my wife pushes the reset button, and the burner looks clean

I did note that the stove seemed to be burning with a bit of yellow 'tips' on the flame, IIRC, that means the gas pressure is a little too high so the stove is running rich ? I guess I should rig a manometer up and check the systtem pressure. Does the RMD8555 have pressure-stats that detect gas pressure too low or too high and refuse to run?

[WillyB]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

my RMD8555 won't light on propane, but works fine on 120VAC. Got plenty of propane in the system, the furnace runs fine, as does the water heater, and stove/oven. When I push the gas button on the fridge, it pauses a second or two, I hear a faint click, then it beeps/alerts. push the reset button, a second later, a click and immediately beep beep. I can see it spark once each time my wife pushes the reset button, and the burner looks clean

I did note that the stove seemed to be burning with a bit of yellow 'tips' on the flame, IIRC, that means the gas pressure is a little too high so the stove is running rich ? I guess I should rig a manometer up and check the systtem pressure. Does the RMD8555 have pressure-stats that detect gas pressure too low or too high and refuse to run?

Pulled this from their website: Gas pressure (DIN732) 30 mbar

[Rossue]

The most common problem is a dirty orfice. Happened to me a year ago and it really is an easy fix.

[fudge_brownie]

Orafice is a good start. Manometer second, there is a test port at the refrigerator but I could never open the plug. Cleaning the flue for spider webs and mud dauber nests would be third. Try manual lighting with a long lighter. There is a sensor on the flue, seems to me I removed it. Cannot check how I over rode it. Does not sound like the main board or the eyebrow board.

I have spent at least 1 1/2 the price of that refrigerator on repairs. All before the compressor units became the rage.

[MVA]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

my RMD8555 won't light on propane, but works fine on 120VAC. Got plenty of propane in the system, the furnace runs fine, as does the water heater, and stove/oven. When I push the gas button on the fridge, it pauses a second or two, I hear a faint click, then it beeps/alerts. push the reset button, a second later, a click and immediately beep beep. I can see it spark once each time my wife pushes the reset button, and the burner looks clean

I did note that the stove seemed to be burning with a bit of yellow 'tips' on the flame, IIRC, that means the gas pressure is a little too high so the stove is running rich ? I guess I should rig a manometer up and check the systtem pressure. Does the RMD8555 have pressure-stats that detect gas pressure too low or too high and refuse to run?

John,

I had a similar problem when traveling from sea level to 7000'. I built a water column manometer (lots of videos on youtube) and found that the pressure regulator spring was set at 14" WC; not the 11.5" per the frig spec. Adjusted the regulator and works fine now.

2 cents

[John in Santa Cruz]

well, I took the burner partially apart, everything was pretty clean, but I didn't poke anything into the orifice hole. I did run a small brush (meant for the straws in a water bottle) into the little burner tube, and brushed off the sparker and flame sensor wires. I can't for the life of me figure out how to get a bottle brush up the flue, the bottom end of the flue is just about an inch or two above the floor of the access compartment, and I can't figure out how to get a brush up it. I don't know how tall that chimney/flue is on a RMD8555, is it accessible from the roof vent? the screws that hold the roof vent cover on are all goobered in place with sealant so I'd have to chip that off before I could unscrew the cap.

Still cogitating on setting up a manometer, I'll probably get some clear PVC tubing tomorrow and try to figure something out.

it is still bugging me that it sparks once and immediately faults, I would expect it to try and light a couple times before faulting. I found a service manual for the RMx8xxx series, but it looks like its for an older version, the control panel on mine is quite different, and the diagnostic mode setting in the service manual doesn't seem to work on mine.

[MVA]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

well, I took the burner partially apart, everything was pretty clean, but I didn't poke anything into the orifice hole. I did run a small brush (meant for the straws in a water bottle) into the little burner tube, and brushed off the sparker and flame sensor wires. I can't for the life of me figure out how to get a bottle brush up the flue, the bottom end of the flue is just about an inch or two above the floor of the access compartment, and I can't figure out how to get a brush up it. I don't know how tall that chimney/flue is on a RMD8555, is it accessible from the roof vent? the screws that hold the roof vent cover on are all goobered in place with sealant so I'd have to chip that off before I could unscrew the cap.

Still cogitating on setting up a manometer, I'll probably get some clear PVC tubing tomorrow and try to figure something out.

it is still bugging me that it sparks once and immediately faults, I would expect it to try and light a couple times before faulting. I found a service manual for the RMx8xxx series, but it looks like its for an older version, the control panel on mine is quite different, and the diagnostic mode setting in the service manual doesn't seem to work on mine.

Here is a video I used in constructing a manometer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnlfQK-8qy4

.

The only reason I suspect gas pressure is the double fault in the frig and the cooktop (not lighting and incomplete combustion).

If you have the same regulator as I do, there is a pressure tap on the side of the regulator. If you remove the 1/8" NPT plug and attach a fitting like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it will fit nicely onto 1/4" tubing. PM if you want addition details.

[Rossue]

Only soak the orifice as it will likely be damaged by using a wire. If your regulator is the original then you might want to replace it anyway.

[KirkB]

Hi John,

My guess is a control panel problem. I have had to clean orifice many times, it typically sparks a number of times, waits and tries again a few times before faulting, if poor flame is a problem. You are reporting an immediate fault, makes me think the electronics are confused after the first spark attempt. Just my guess.

[Rossue]

If you are just standing in front of the fridge you may not hear it sparking and the faint click might be something else. This reminds me that the AEC system is somewhat finnicky so be sure instead of just pressing the Reset you press the Automatic as well and have the Shore power disconnected.

[John in Santa Cruz]

no, for the spark, I had my nose right in there with the cover off the burner assembly and *SAW* the spark. single spark, immediate error.

I haven't disassembled the orifice yet, as it appears to have locktite or some sort of red sealant on all the brass threads.

I'll do something about rigging up a manometer, I've watched plenty of those videos in the past and understand exactly how it works... I was a science nerd in HS.

re: gas regulator, I replaced the original crappy one with a Marshall Excelsior a year or so ago, but have never checked the pressure. have NOT done much camping since.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I'll do something about rigging up a manometer, I've watched plenty of those videos in the past and understand exactly how it works... I was a science nerd in HS.

After having numerous propane problems with a previous trailer, I purchased a manometer for somewhere around $40. I use it occasionally on my Escape, usually with a fitting I assembled to go into the trailer’s QD. It provides a quick annual check of the regulator’s status. They can be handy to have. A couple of years back, an attendee at the Niagara Wine Escape had a propane problem. Fortunately, Iowa Dave had a manometer with him and the problem was solved with a minor regulator adjustment. Rather than leaving my manometer at home, that incident convinced me to keep it in one of the trailer’s storage compartments.

re: gas regulator, I replaced the original crappy one with a Marshall Excelsior a year or so ago, but have never checked the pressure. have NOT done much camping since.

I will admit that I, in looking for “things to do” and in my desire to “improve” have made modifications. I also do not know if John’s “original crappy” regulator malfunctioned and required replacement, or if he was just trying to avert an envisioned future problem. Being guilty of this behavior myself, I am in no way being critical. I do have a “replacement” regulator in the same storage compartment with my manometer because regulators are known to be prone to failure. But I am still using the original regulator that was installed in my 2015 Escape. Sometimes, it is better to “go with the flow.” Yea, pun intended. But while I am willing to make improvements, I also ascribe to the philosophy that if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it. Hopefully, John, there is a simple solution to your refrigerator’s problem; one that is inexpensive and does not involve extensive time and/or labor.

[John in Santa Cruz]

I replaced my original regulator because the changeover valve didn't work consistently

[Tonny LR]

John,
Darren is a certified RV Tech. He posted many RV appliances trouble shooting video on you- tube. This video may be helpful: my rv works rv refrigerator troubleshooting.

Tonny LR

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Tonny LR

John,
Darren is a certified RV Tech. He posted many RV appliances trouble shooting video on you- tube. This video may be helpful: my rv works rv refrigerator troubleshooting.

Tonny LR

presumably you mean this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7JboU8ZlE0

[Tonny LR]

Yes. I hope that his video can help you to find a solution to your refrigerator propane issues.

Tonny LR

[Tonny LR]

Another video from Darren: RV Propane Overview & Three Tests To Ensure Proper Propane Function (Hole size is a '#41' not an 'X'

Tonny LR

[John in Santa Cruz]

fyi, i fired up the stove here at home, and 2 burners look good, not yellow tipped, but the THIRD burner, OMG, way too much gas, huh.

[California Dreaming]

Hi,
I have the same model in my 2014 15' and experienced the exact same issue. My problem turned out to be the motherboard. Replacing it was half the cost of purchasing a new refrigerator
https://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-...board-kit.html

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by California Dreaming

Hi,
I have the same model in my 2014 15' and experienced the exact same issue. My problem turned out to be the motherboard. Replacing it was half the cost of purchasing a new refrigerator
https://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-...board-kit.html

ouch. any idea how that was diagnosed? thats way too expensive to buy as a shotgun attempt at repair.

oh and thats the MES version, I have the newer AES version, with a completely different control panel. All the service manuals I've been able to locate for the RMx8xxx series don't even show my panel or wiring diagram