?s regarding solar/power generators

[driver]

We have a 2016 E19; batteries are starting to show their age while using the inverter to run the microwave.

Reading the various posts on "upgrading" to Lipo, etc I do not want the expense to change/convert the charger or other items to simply to use the Lipo batteries.

I will replace the two 6v batteries but am curious as to how well the advertised "power station/solar generator" are working with folks who are using them.

We dry camp for 2-4 days and shore power 2-3 days No CPAP needs. Most of our camping is not in the hot months in Central California/high desert so no need for continuous A/C use, but there have been some 'hot' days. We would use the microwave and the coffee maker (550w) in the morning.

Any thoughts on a unit that is worth considering?

Weight limit: less than 60 pounds.

thanks

[SageRpod]

My daughter and her husband are avid overlanders. They use a Jackery 1000 with the 4 100watt solar panels. It meets most of their needs but they have talked about upgrading to the 1500 only to have the added capacity. They use it to power a coffee maker, charge phones and laptops, and run a water pump for an outdoor shower they made. They really like it. They do complain that in windy conditions, the lightweight panels blow over and the cords can be a hassle.

[TahoeJoe]

Those "generators" are just batteries with an inverter...a different version of what you already have. I suspect you could get more bang for your buck just replacing your current batteries. Do you have solar panels, and if so how are those working?

[Perry Butler]

In February 2021, we decided we needed more than just 170 watts on the roof and a 100 watt portable. I looked into a Jackery and realized it was just a battery with the need to hook to power to charge. I don’t like carrying around and setting up our 100 watt portable, and a Jackery would just double the stuff to setup, breakdown, and store. A 1500 watt Jackery is actually just a 115-120 ah battery with built in hookups that you might already have in your camper.

We decided on adding 300 watts to the roof for about $450 instead.

A Jackery 1500 is $1,700! Buy a 100 ah SOK and install a second solar panel (ass u me ing you already have one) for less than $1,000 and you’ll have nothing to setup, breakdown and store. That $700 saved could buy you a second battery if you want.

As far as lithium batteries you can use your WFCO to charge them to around 80%. Lithiums do not have to be charged to 100% all the time, like most leaded batteries. If you have a solar panel it should be able to finish charging a lithium to 100%. Since you only dry camp for 2-4 days a 100 ah lithium battery should do you well. If you winter camp with heavy furnace use 200 ah’s would better suit you.

We’re currently charging our 200 ah’s of SOK batteries with a 160 watt roof panel and our 100 watt Renogy portable. Our trailer charger is turned off, but if we ever need it (at a campsite with power) it can be turned on again. We have two, 200 watt panels sitting at home for me to install next May so we don’t have to carry that PITA 100 watt portable.

Food for thought,

Perry

[driver]

Thanks for the various responses.

As has been stated, I wish to minimize what is carried/needed. I will need to replace the original 6v batteries soon, that is obvious.

I do have a 100w solar panel which can be added to the configuration regardless which way we go.

The reason for looking at a power station/generator is for a portable power source to the home during a power outage or earthquake/fire as welll (we have evacuated several times in the past few years so we know the drill).

Any recommendations or expeience with the 1500w or 200w units is appreiated.

[HABBERDABBER]

I had an older Duracell AGM Power Station. 600W, I didn't use it much camping. It was in a screen shelter overnight, and got wet during a mean thunderstorm. I later turned it on, and POOF!, the smoke escaped from the device.
I rebuilt it with a 400W inverter, travel with it, but haven't still used it much.
For back-up at home, you'll need a whole lot more capability than most of these units. They can run CPAP machines, charge electronics, provide lighting, but you better forget about microwave, coffee pot, Escape furnace or other heavy drain heating element or motor appliances. Few, if any battery powered devices of 60lbs will do that.
The Lithium ion versions may be appreciably better at providing your needs.

Best to spend your money on premium flooded lead acid batteries and more solar. With my 2016, I'll also be replacing the original Interstate batteries with some Trojan brand 6V's, obtained from a local golf cart dealer. Don't try & save money with the Interstate 6V's from Costco. They are a different model #, different construction and don't hold up well. They're cheap, for a reason. Interstate does make a solid version 6V, comparable in price and performance to the Trojans.

For emergency home use, a portable, fossil fueled generator can run refrigerators, a furnace, even AC if powerful enough and not all at once. I have a 2KW gas generator for potential ice storm outages. With acquiring a Bolt EUV auto, I've added a 2KW inverter to tap off of the 60KW traction battery. Enough to intermittently run home appliances during an outage. 960 lbs of lithium ion battery in the vehicle, so I might as well have the capability to use it.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by driver

We have a 2016 E19; batteries are starting to show their age while using the inverter to run the microwave.

Reading the various posts on "upgrading" to Lipo, etc I do not want the expense to change/convert the charger or other items to simply to use the Lipo batteries.

I will replace the two 6v batteries but am curious as to how well the advertised "power station/solar generator" are working with folks who are using them.

We dry camp for 2-4 days and shore power 2-3 days No CPAP needs. Most of our camping is not in the hot months in Central California/high desert so no need for continuous A/C use, but there have been some 'hot' days. We would use the microwave and the coffee maker (550w) in the morning.

Any thoughts on a unit that is worth considering?

Weight limit: less than 60 pounds.

thanks

This may, or may not work in your situation.

If you store your camper at your house then you can provide emergency 110 VAC from the camper to your house by using your Escape inverter and a reasonably heavy extension cord. Keeping in mind that the total load in your house should not exceed the typical microwave & 550W coffee maker that you use in the trailer.

The power source would be a bank of brand new LiPO batteries in the trailer. And to address the concern "expense to change/convert the charger". Since you have the trailer near your house you can charge up the batteries using a dedicated LiPO charger running off the house voltage using the same heavy extension cords. A dedicated charger is not too expensive ($100 +/-) and easy to use.

But what about "We dry camp for 2-4 days"? A good size bank - say 3 to 4 100AH LiPO batteries should keep you going nicely for 4 days with no charging - assuming reasonable use of the microwave and coffee maker. 4 LiPO batteries would probably weigh less than 2 equivalent lead-acid batteries.

Finally, for "shore power 2-3 days". Really no issues if you turn off the "equalize" setting on the Escape charger. The lead-acid settings will charge the LiPO batteries just fine up to about 80%. Just top them off at home. A few cycles of charge-discharge starting at 80% will do no harm. (Info from Dakota Battery.)

The downside: A big initial hit to the pocketbook. And correct me if I am wrong, but E19 has the battery storage outside? If so, you can not charge the batteries if the temperature is below 32F, which may not be a big issue where you live, but would be for us northerners. Some of the better LiPO batteries have internal heaters, but now $$$ went up to $$$$.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

And correct me if I am wrong, but E19 has the battery storage outside? If so, you can not charge the batteries if the temperature is below 32F, which may not be a big issue where you live, but would be for us northerners. Some of the better LiPO batteries have internal heaters, but now $$$ went up to $$$$.

Our SOK batteries turn off at 34F and once off don’t charge again until they hit 41F. We were surprised at that 41F. Thought something was wrong but Current Connected, our SOK dealer, verified the 41F solar charging point. The first day this happened it didn’t hit 41F until 1 pm. In the morning till noon our solar panel was in the sun until 12:30, and then just 40-50 watts the rest of the day, so little solar charging the rest of the week.

We originally put the SOK’s in the front, outside battery compartment of our Bigfoot till I had time to move them underneath the dinette. When we were camping in Chiricahua NM it was snow for a week, so I took a couple of days to properly move them to the dinette area. Last night it got down to 30F, but now that they’re inside they charge.

SOK’s heater for their batteries only works where you’re hooked to an electric post or get set. Others will drain the battery to a point to heat them for charging. We didn’t care for either way and, for us, and with them inside now, see no need for the heater option.

Food for thought,

Perry

[Selkirk]

I’ve been looking at various all-in-one “power stations” recently. I appreciate the advantages of having the battery, inverter, solar controller, AC charger, and DC charger all packaged into one easy-to-use highly portable device.

One thing I’m beginning to learn is that these units are not created equally. The flashy marketing specs like maximum power output and battery capacity doesn’t really tell the full story about their capabilities. IE: It’s important to understand things like efficiency of the inverter, capacity of the solar controller, charging rates, etc. The higher capacity/better quality examples are understandably not cheap.

My biggest concern is future serviceability when compared to a conventional-style system assembled with individual components. I would hate to invest big $$$ on a premium unit…only to have a major internal part die post warranty, rendering the whole thing useless with limited-to-no repair options.

[HABBERDABBER]

SELKIRK: My biggest concern is future serviceability when compared to a conventional-style system assembled with individual components. I would hate to invest big $$$ on a premium unit…only to have a major internal part die post warranty, rendering the whole thing useless with limited-to-no repair options."


When the smoke escaped my water damaged Duracell 600W unit, I transferred most of the
components into a plastic tool box. The Duracell housing was not usable following disassembly. I cobbled a 400W inverter, added a DC volt meter, and used the wiring, fuses and other fittings from the Duracell. It is possible to salvage and reuse if a unit goes kaput, but takes time and effort to do so. Pics included, not a sleek, pretty rebuild, but it works well.

[driver]

Thank you all for your comments, recommendations and examples.

Long term service for these new power systems has been on my mind. I can wait for the items to get a better track record before investing in them.

I will replace the aging 6v batteries and begin using the extra 100w panel I have through the zamp connector for additional recharging.

Again, thanks for education.

[HABBERDABBER]

Do your due diligence, but these devices have been around for years, models change all the time, manufacturers come and go. When you decide to pop for one, go with lithium ion rechargeable battery power/storage source. Mine is so old, it uses a lead acid AGM.

Goal Zero is my recommendation to look at. They've been offering innovative gear for quite a while, well designed and constructed, and not cheap. I have NO affiliation with them, just some knowledge of their gear.

https://www.goalzero.com

Bon chance,

[driver]

Thank you for those additional words of encouragement.

While I am an "old school" guy in many areas I do embrace new technology when it's been proven.

On a side note, I checked the cells on the 6v batteries and two of the six were at 75% or less, hence the diminishing performance. They are the original batteries installed on the E19 when it was sold so no surprise there.

On more week-trip to Arizona at the end of March and then I will replace the 6v units when I return for a longer trek into Nevada, Utah and Arizona in May.

Cheers

[HABBERDABBER]

The typical life span of flooded lead acid batteries is around 5 years, give or take, if well maintained. We've both been running on borrowed time. Heat is apparently tougher on them than cold. That makes some sense, as cold slows down chemical reactions.....& degradation.

[Mike G]

I have nothing against those power devices, and they definitely have their uses, but I am rankled by the manufacturers' misleading use of the moniker, "solar generator." The devices don't generate power, they store it. And they aren't able to store solar power until one adds a (usually optional) panel to the mix. The name, "solar generator," seems disingenuous.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by Mike G

I have nothing against those power devices, and they definitely have their uses, but I am rankled by the manufacturers' misleading use of the moniker, "solar generator." The devices don't generate power, they store it. And they aren't able to store solar power until one adds a (usually optional) panel to the mix. The name, "solar generator," seems disingenuous.

Plus they inflate the consumer's expectation of their capabilities beyond anything reasonable.

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

The typical life span of flooded lead acid batteries is around 5 years, give or take, if well maintained. We've both been running on borrowed time. Heat is apparently tougher on them than cold. That makes some sense, as cold slows down chemical reactions.....& degradation.

Heat and vibration are the bane of a battery's existence, especially flooded cell batteries. AGM's are not affected as bad, but batteries in general need have solid mounting and protected against heavy vibration.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Plus they inflate the consumer's expectation of their capabilities beyond anything reasonable.

We bought a Goal Zero 3000X on sale from REI when they had 20% off. They allow you to return it within one year. Am extremely satisfied with this unit for use in our van camper. Also bought the GZ Vehicle Integration Kit which is their proprietary B to B charger and that works awesome too. We also have two 195W panels on roof.

This system if I were to build it would cost way more that this "solar generator" and we've used it several times to power the house with it's 2K pure sine wave inverter. Have also in the past used the Escape's 1500W inverter- yet this is easier to use while inside the house. For power outages over one day am glad we didn't have anything less in AH capacity- this one went down to 52% a couple of times running the fridge & some other items. GZ Customer service reviews is what made me choose it over a Bluetti or similar, and did find it easy to get advice on a few things during the first year. Almost two years old now and would buy it again.

I agree with others that for the OP's immediate needs two new 6V batteries is by far the most economical way to replace their original ones. Costco sells GC-2 Interstates for about $100 each.

[CE Vogel]

Originally Posted by driver

Thank you all for your comments, recommendations and examples.

I will replace the aging 6v batteries and begin using the extra 100w panel I have through the zamp connector for additional recharging.

Again, thanks for education.

It does seem replacing your 6V batteries is the most cost effective solution for you. I second HABBERDABBER's advice to get premium quality batteries. I can vouch for Trojan batteries, I've had fantastic service from them. They are worth the extra dollars.

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by Perry Butler

In February 2021, we decided we needed more than just 170 watts on the roof and a 100 watt portable. I looked into a Jackery and realized it was just a battery with the need to hook to power to charge. I don’t like carrying around and setting up our 100 watt portable, and a Jackery would just double the stuff to setup, breakdown, and store. A 1500 watt Jackery is actually just a 115-120 ah battery with built in hookups that you might already have in your camper.

We decided on adding 300 watts to the roof for about $450 instead.

A Jackery 1500 is $1,700! Buy a 100 ah SOK and install a second solar panel (ass u me ing you already have one) for less than $1,000 and you’ll have nothing to setup, breakdown and store. That $700 saved could buy you a second battery if you want.

As far as lithium batteries you can use your WFCO to charge them to around 80%. Lithiums do not have to be charged to 100% all the time, like most leaded batteries. If you have a solar panel it should be able to finish charging a lithium to 100%. Since you only dry camp for 2-4 days a 100 ah lithium battery should do you well. If you winter camp with heavy furnace use 200 ah’s would better suit you.

We’re currently charging our 200 ah’s of SOK batteries with a 160 watt roof panel and our 100 watt Renogy portable. Our trailer charger is turned off, but if we ever need it (at a campsite with power) it can be turned on again. We have two, 200 watt panels sitting at home for me to install next May so we don’t have to carry that PITA 100 watt portable.

Food for thought,

Perry

Perry I see your shutting your trailer charger off and letting the solar do the work. how do you do this? did you install I switch in the converter charging line? or are you just leaving converter not powered? thanks