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Old 06-28-2020, 01:47 PM   #21
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Great feedback Jon! That is tons of information to digest. I will be able to make a decision in future now thanks in large part to your detailed feedback. Take care,

Jeff
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Old 06-28-2020, 01:48 PM   #22
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thanks for the tip.
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Old 06-28-2020, 05:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
Most absorption refrigerators use lower wattage elements for the 12V heaters than the element used for 120V. Because the element provides less heat, all the operation descriptions I have seen run 100% of the time at full power when on the 12V side.
Yes, I wouldn't be surprised by 100% duty cycle, but the supplied values (14 and 170) - if they were supposed to be current while operating and total consumption per day - would correspond to operating only 12 hours per day (14 A x 12 h = 170 Ah). 14 amps does sound about right for current while running on 12 V DC, but perhaps I've misunderstood what the "170" value was supposed to mean.

On the other hand, a refrigerator with a thermostat for DC operation would cycle just as it would on another energy source. While I have heard of refrigerators without a thermostat for DC I'm pretty sure some do have one.
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Old 06-28-2020, 07:34 PM   #24
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If it were an option there are 12 vdc compressor refrigerators that only pull 5.2 amps when running. If camping at altitude where temperatures are cooler these refrigerators have about a 50% duty cycle so the daily consumption would be 62 ah. Or if camping in the heat you could expect a 80% or so duty cycle so the consumption would be about 100 ah. If you have a good solar system, a couple of 100ah lifepo4 batteries and some sun you've got it covered. Of course, one could always fire up a generator to charge the batteries. Also, the effective cooling of a compressor fridge is better than an absorption fridge.
I know, don't tell about frogs and wings.
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Old 07-08-2020, 08:56 PM   #25
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410-watts of Zamp solar (3-90-watt roof panels and 1-140-watt portable) gave me no issues for 10 days. Grey, black and fresh water were the biggest issues. Ran LED lights, Two TVs, refrigerator, SiriusXM radio, iMac computer, iPad, Smartphone and furnace. Batteries were 2-6-volt high amp batteries hooked in series. Also used 1500 watt inverter for my CPAP. You need to look at how efficient your solar panels can convert any type of sun to energy. Renege, Go-Power and many other brands don’t compare in the efficiency of converting energy. While they may be cheaper. You get what you pay for.
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Old 07-08-2020, 09:46 PM   #26
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"Have you considered a small portable windmill to supplement your solar ?
Two sources are better than one , plus wind power is environmentally friendly.
At one time Jacob’s Wind built them"








Jacobs made windmills for farms back, way back, in the 1920's-1930's. Reliable, robust units, still rebuilt and used, but you would need a tall land based, concrete post supported tower to utilize one. An internet search for a 200W wind turbine, via sailing websites, could provide your needs.
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Old 07-09-2020, 12:47 AM   #27
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Great feedback. Thanks. Sounds like if you are a lone male with a composting toilet in the desert you could bypass black all-together and stay a little longer. True about getting what you pay for.I ascribe to that belief in all things gear related.
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Old 10-12-2020, 01:04 PM   #28
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I know this has been discussed ad nauseum in various posts, but I have a brand-new 21NE with one 190W panel and paired lead acid batteries...if I run my furnace (figure low 40's at night, 50's by day), and refrigerator and water heater on propane (very light hot water use), and nothing else electric except the LED lighting and water pump, do you think the solar would keep up? Possible partly cloudy coastal days...keeping the inside temp around 65F.



I haven't had the chance to dive into the understanding of the system and the math yet, but have a chance for a coastal boondock trip soon. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2020, 01:13 PM   #29
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I know this has been discussed ad nauseum in various posts, but I have a brand-new 21NE with one 190W panel and paired lead acid batteries...if I run my furnace (figure low 40's at night, 50's by day), and refrigerator and water heater on propane (very light hot water use), and nothing else electric except the LED lighting and water pump, do you think the solar would keep up? Possible partly cloudy coastal days...keeping the inside temp around 65F.



I haven't had the chance to dive into the understanding of the system and the math yet, but have a chance for a coastal boondock trip soon. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
You should not have a problem using the items specified with the stock solar. Furnace/refer both on propane and 12v, pump and LED lighting.....
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Old 10-12-2020, 01:45 PM   #30
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If you are parked in the sun in the south, indefinitely. If in the shade or way up north, 6 or 7 days. Titling panel mounts are a plus too.
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Old 10-12-2020, 02:08 PM   #31
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Thanks! We're looking at a 3-day trip, so we'll go with confidence (and keep an eye on the controller too).
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Old 10-12-2020, 02:18 PM   #32
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We’ve gone 3 to 4 days without. hookups or solar on a single 27F wet cell battery
All it took was a reasonable attempt at being conservative with our electrical usage
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Old 10-12-2020, 02:30 PM   #33
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I usually go all winter without hookups. 91 days is the longest, but at least a couple of months is normal. I have never "needed" a generator, however I carry a 900/700 watt propane only generator just in case.

Set up is a pair of 160 watt panels on the roof & a 160 watt portable panel, for a total, when necessary, of 480 watts.

In the dead of winter I usually tilt the rooftop panels & add the portable. For summer camping when the sun is higher in the sky, I don't add the portable unless camping in the shade, and don't bother tilting the rooftop panels.

I started with the stock pair of Interstate 6V batteries, and currently have a pair of 100 amp hour Battleborn lithium. The longest stretch of cloudy/rainy days so far has been 4 days with the lead acid & 6 days with the lithium. In both cases I didn't get below half the battery capacity.
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