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12-04-2016, 03:56 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
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Solar Connectors Failed
I am doing my 6 month wash and wax and discovered that both of the plastic solar connectors on the roof panel have sheared in the same place. I hadn't lost the solar power yet, but the plugs were working themselves apart and it was just a matter of time.
Studying the setup, my best guess is that it is due to the way they were installed. The wires behind the connectors were zip tied to the panel foot allowing both connectors to buffet in the wind and bang against the metal panel when driving, etc. Neither had major sun exposure as they were under the panel in the shade for the bulk of the time, had to be fatigue from being allowed to flop around.
I will turn in under warranty on Monday, but will probably attempt a Myron style JBWeld to get me through upcoming camping until we can get new connectors.
Going to try and figure out a better installation when I put the new ones on rather than they way they came.
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12-04-2016, 04:03 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Bozeman, Montana
Trailer: 2018 5.0TA / 2018 GMC Canyon/Duramax
Posts: 561
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Greg, I'm not a fan of those connectors, when I do my panels. I will do it the way AM Solar does it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A
I am doing my 6 month wash and wax and discovered that both of the plastic solar connectors on the roof panel have sheared in the same place. I hadn't lost the solar power yet, but the plugs were working themselves apart and it was just a matter of time.
Studying the setup, my best guess is that it is due to the way they were installed. The wires behind the connectors were zip tied to the panel foot allowing both connectors to buffet in the wind and bang against the metal panel when driving, etc. Neither had major sun exposure as they were under the panel in the shade for the bulk of the time, had to be fatigue from being allowed to flop around.
I will turn in under warranty on Monday, but will probably attempt a Myron style JBWeld to get me through upcoming camping until we can get new connectors.
Going to try and figure out a better installation when I put the new ones on rather than they way they came.
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12-04-2016, 04:20 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
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Thanks, Kent. AMSolar is one of the best out there, and apparently they knew these connectors are weak links. When I was looking closely at the setup up there, I asked myself why those weren't wire connected straight through exactly like the video shows. No reason to have the bulky plastic connectors that I can see, especially if they are a fail point.
You could also add in a plug in type connector right there at that point to plug in a portable panel without having to do any additional wiring or put another hole in the trailer. Goes right to the charge controller. If I ever add back in a portable panel, that is where mine will connect.
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12-04-2016, 04:45 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,213
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Anyone have an idea how to protect these connectors against the elements? Wrap them?
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12-04-2016, 05:03 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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They are weather proof, looks more in need of vibration proofing.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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12-04-2016, 05:05 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St. Thomas not BVI., Ontario
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2016 Ram Eco Diesel 4X4
Posts: 8,038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
Anyone have an idea how to protect these connectors against the elements? Wrap them?
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Hi: Rossue... DUCT TAPE? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
__________________
Quote Bugs Bunny..."Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out of it ALIVE"!!!
'16 Ram Eco D. 4X4 Laramie Longhorn CC & '14 Escape 5.0TA
St.Thomas (Not the Virgin Islands) Ontario
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12-04-2016, 05:07 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
Anyone have an idea how to protect these connectors against the elements? Wrap them?
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The MC4 connectors are meant to be used outdoors. My concern after seeing Greg's is just that they are not strong enough. I wonder if it might help to strengthen them with shrink wrap tube.
But I too was wondering why he would not just wire direct into the junction box.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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12-04-2016, 06:25 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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The people at AM Solar apparently know what they're doing, but other than that video I couldn't find any indication in their web site (which has extensive explanatory content) that they think there is anything wrong with using MC4 connectors at each panel's output; in fact, they sell MC4 assemblies and parts (connectors and cables) specifically to build panel output collection systems like this.
MC4 connectors are very common in solar applications, but many - if not most - solar applications are stationary. Also, while MC4 started as a proprietary connector type, there are now multiple manufacturers of interoperable products, and I don't know of a quality standard; perhaps these were brittle.
Supporting the cables on both sides of the connectors would make sense to me. Over-wrapping them with heat shrink tubing would likely help, and seems reasonable given that they will only need to be disconnected if panel repair is needed.
I assume that the connectors were used because the panel has stub wires on it, and the connection box on the panel is a sealed unit which does not have accessible terminals... but that's only a guess. If it does have usable terminals, then I agree that running uninterrupted cables to those terminals would be the best solution - either bare wire onto the terminals, or MC4 connectors on the wire end plugged into MC4 connectors built into the termination box, depending on what the box provides.
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12-04-2016, 06:35 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Also, I found it bizarre that the AM Solar video shows them cutting apart the supplied MC4 harness, then hacking their cable onto the cut ends. This means they still have the MC4 connection at the termination box (because that's how it is designed), but they also have extra splices. The alternative would be to run their oh-so-special two-conductor cable right to the termination box location, install an MC4 connector on each conductor, and seal up the end of the cable jacket. I suppose their problem is that by insisting on using the two-conductor cable, they have given up the ability to use the MC4 connectors properly, since those connectors are designed for individually jacketed single-conductor cables.
Since Escape is using separate single-conductor cables, AM Solar's problem of adapting to two-conductor cable does not apply to an Escape installation.
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12-04-2016, 06:41 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
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My recommendation for all with solar panel is to at a minimum zip tie the actual connectors to the panel foot and not the wires. It will only take about 10 minutes to do this and it may save a connector shearing, or in my case two shearing. When I receive the new connectors from ETI, I may try and design something more secure than zip ties to hold the connectors firmly to the panel foot.
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12-04-2016, 07:19 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,809
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I was wondering about taking about a 3" piece of small diameter PVC pipe, just large enough for both connectors to fit inside and zap strapping it to the panel support. Then pulling the connectors inside and zap strapping them in place. The sleeve might be all that's required to vibration proof them and they would still be easily disconnected if required. Just a thought.
Ron
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12-04-2016, 07:26 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Some good ideas here, thanks for the heads up.....
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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12-04-2016, 08:09 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Area 51, New Mexico
Trailer: pondering.....
Posts: 728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
Anyone have an idea how to protect these connectors against the elements? Wrap them?
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perhaps as a cheap and easy method... Home Depot or Lowes used to sell that liquid rubber in a can used to dip tools in so as to provide a rubber handle....pour in a disposable container, make sure the connector is okay then dip in rubber , remove and let it dry...takes a few minutes
the heat shrink also sounds good if you can easily find a big enough diameter.
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12-04-2016, 08:11 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Wrap them with black electrical tape, should help for a couple of years at least.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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12-04-2016, 09:10 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
I was wondering about taking about a 3" piece of small diameter PVC pipe, just large enough for both connectors to fit inside and zap strapping it to the panel support. Then pulling the connectors inside and zap strapping them in place. The sleeve might be all that's required to vibration proof them and they would still be easily disconnected if required. Just a thought.
Ron
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Thinking along ur lines here Ron. There are two screws that mount the panel to the foot and was thinking I could eliminate the zip tie entirely, which is also a fail point, and secure it using the screws that mount the foot to the panel. Maybe some kind of aluminum hangar that holds the connectors and then screwed between the panel frame and the foot.
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12-05-2016, 08:57 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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You might also consider using this flexible shielding, available in different colors and diameters at Ace Hardware stores.
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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12-05-2016, 09:02 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Here is a picture of the connection on the new style 19, they are now low, on the roof.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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12-05-2016, 09:05 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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A couple more pictures...
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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12-05-2016, 09:09 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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My applied solar connections for protection...
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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12-05-2016, 01:58 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL
My applied solar connections for protection...
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Myron, it looks like you have connections protected in a short section of corrugated tube, plus another set of connections further away from the panels. Are there two sets of connections, and if so... why?
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