Standard Equipment...What You Would Like

[Eggscape]

I think the new Escape management has made some great changes in availability of flooring, counter tops etc.. There are also great standard features that already come with the Escape like the outside sewage light and the rear receiver. However, there are a few things that I think should be standard when you are buying a $30,000 plus trailer. I can’t see that my suggestions would cost them more than $200 and I would have been more than happy to pay the extra.

Let’s start with the foot pads for the jacks. My last cheapo trailer had them and I was shocked to find our new Escape was missing them on delivery. I can’t understand how a jack company can make such a jack without them and how Escape can let a $30,000 plus trailer out of the factory without them.
At least this is an easy fix using a block of wood or buying the metal foot pads yourself.

Not so easy to fix is the single outside step. Trust me...you just cannot bolt a two step unit on. The step down to the step from the inside was approximately 7 inches. From the step to the ground was another 14 inches...way more than is generally acceptable for a “standard step”. Yes, you can use a stool...but why should you have to as many other trailers have more than one step. I will not go further on this item as there are indications that Escape has been listening and is working on a two step design...Great!

Next is new full length cross supports under the bed instead of the 40 screws they use to make the short supports work. Either from side to side in the 21 or front to back in the 19. So little cost and wood required to do it in a traditional manner.

Lastly is to have the propane tank base welded to the frame rather than using the screws that have been known to rust out/off. Luckily most people have found their tanks loose before they have come completely off.

These are the things that I would like to see changed and would be willing to pay a little extra for to cover costs.

What would you like to see standard and would be willing to pay for?

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

What would you like to see standard and would be willing to pay for?

Nothing. I'm willing to pay extra for options. I don't see any advantage in making everybody pay for them, want them or not.
Except, maybe an escalator instead of an entry step. Might need that soon.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

I can’t understand how a jack company can make such a jack without them and how Escape can let a $30,000 plus trailer out of the factory without them.


Not so easy to fix is the single outside step. Trust me...you just cannot bolt a two step unit on. The step down to the step from the inside was approximately 7 inches. From the step to the ground was another 14 inches...way more than is generally acceptable for a “standard step”.

Next is new full length cross supports under the bed instead of the 40 screws they use to make the short supports work. Either from side to side in the 21 or front to back in the 19. So little cost and wood required to do it in a traditional manner.

No argument about the lack of bases on the stabilizers. They look incomplete without them.

Our trailer came with that step setup. I complained that it wasn't the same as the demo unit. They replaced it with one that makes the space equal, about 11" and 11". Yes, I've seen some nice aluminum two step, flip up one step, units. I'd like one of them.

I don't think that they build the bed decks the way they do to save a few pennies worth of wood. The screws cost more than a few inches of wood. I suspect that it's done as a time saving measure. It allows the plywood deck to sit on the surrounding ledger strip without them having to notch it out for the cross piece. Notching it out and glassing it in the correct position takes time. Easier just to whack in some screws. Not the way we'd do it, but time is money for them.

I've slept on the hard ground under my upside down canoe. The reality for me is that I could take any basic ETI offering and have a great time. All the extras are just gravy.

Ron

[Jordan]

I am picking up our new Escape next week and yes, they already have a 2nd step option.

[gbaglo]

In any event, if your Escape came standard with everything you want, you'd have no mods to do. Then, what would you do?

[Rossue]

Repeating yourself. We know how you roll

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by Jordan

I am picking up our new Escape next week and yes, they already have a 2nd step option.

Like to see some pictures of how they did that once you get it...or from anyone else.

[rbryan4]

I'd like to see an aluminum frame, even as an option.

[gbaglo]

I don't understand how you can add a second step and maintain the standard 7" rise. I have high-lift axle so I have 2 5/8 " more space than most.
Could manage a 6" rise, I guess, with standard axle.

[Mswan]

Better foam in the cushions.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Mswan

Better foam in the cushions.

It's not an issue of quality, it's the firmness spec'd. ETI likely chooses a density of foam that works well for sitting on a bench seat, and also works as a bed. Have you asked them for firmer cushions, or do you want softer?

[Mswan]

We would like firmer foam. We find the cushions not comfortable for sitting, haven't slept on them. We have tried adding yoga mats and Obus Forme supports. May replace foam this spring.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I don't understand how you can add a second step and maintain the standard 7" rise. I have high-lift axle so I have 2 5/8 " more space than most.
Could manage a 6" rise, I guess, with standard axle.

After they changed out my step for the one with a more even amount of distance between the ground, the step and the step up to the trailer the intervals were 11" and 11" for about 22" total height. I think that the height of Gen 2 trailers is different than Gen 1s. So that would easily make for a 7", 7" 7" sort of situation on Gen 2 trailers.

I'd like a second step for another reason. When we're in a muddy area we like to take our shoes off before entering the trailer. It'd be a lot easier to do if there were two steps to stand on.

Ron

[Donna D.]

For 5.0TA buyers, I'd like to see ETI hinge the top step into the loft. Yes there are those that have done it as a mod, but it's a nice change and wouldn't be much for ETI to do it during the build.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Mswan

We would like firmer foam. We find the cushions not comfortable for sitting, haven't slept on them. We have tried adding yoga mats and Obus Forme supports. May replace foam this spring.

The foam on our 2010 17B & current 2014 21 was/is firm- almost too firm at first. My buddy with a 2015 5.0 has much softer foam on his seat cushions, so from what I am reading with your experience and others here something seems to have changed.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Mswan

Better foam in the cushions.

As mentioned, the foam is good stuff, but I agree the seat pads are a bit too soft for me. I took them in to a local foam shop that does mattresses and furniture and they made new ones for those two cushions a degree firmer. They are quite nice now, and when guests are sleeping there we locate them at the sides to avoid being in the hip and shoulder area.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

No argument about the lack of bases on the stabilizers. They look incomplete without them.

Our trailer came with that step setup. I complained that it wasn't the same as the demo unit. They replaced it with one that makes the space equal, about 11" and 11". Yes, I've seen some nice aluminum two step, flip up one step, units. I'd like one of them.

I don't think that they build the bed decks the way they do to save a few pennies worth of wood. The screws cost more than a few inches of wood. I suspect that it's done as a time saving measure. It allows the plywood deck to sit on the surrounding ledger strip without them having to notch it out for the cross piece. Notching it out and glassing it in the correct position takes time. Easier just to whack in some screws. Not the way we'd do it, but time is money for them.

I've slept on the hard ground under my upside down canoe. The reality for me is that I could take any basic ETI offering and have a great time. All the extras are just gravy.

Ron

I asked Reace why the support boards were not all the way across and he explained that they did it that way so they would have clearance for the wiring loom to be attached to the side boards.

I ran my boards all the way across and then drilled a 3/4" hole in the support boards for the wiring. I joined all the boards with a biscuit joiner and glue - I can stand on any of the support boards - and I'm no little guy.

Probably better but I agree with you - takes more time and time is money when you are building a commercial product.

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I don't understand how you can add a second step and maintain the standard 7" rise. I have high-lift axle so I have 2 5/8 " more space than most.
Could manage a 6" rise, I guess, with standard axle.

My only step is way over 7" rise. I set the platform step below it at about 7" so I'd guess the original (high lift) is closer to 10". My problem with a two step version would be that I like putting a wider, longer step below the existing step and a two-step would be two small steps. Not so good for me or the corgis.

Looking again at Glenn's- it is at 10". IF it were at 8" it would be fine. Mine is likely similar in the 15. If the one step were in the right place I'd be good without putting another one below it.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I asked Reace why the support boards were not all the way across and he explained that they did it that way so they would have clearance for the wiring loom to be attached to the side boards.

I'm not sure that I understand the rational from Reace. The wiring loom would stay in the same position even if the ledger board was notched.

I ran my boards all the way across and then drilled a 3/4" hole in the support boards for the wiring. I joined all the boards with a biscuit joiner and glue - I can stand on any of the support boards - and I'm no little guy.

The factory way is strong enough but the first time that I put my weight on one knee in that area and it gave a big creak I wasn't impressed. The deck, not my knee.

I put a secondary ledger strip on the first, I like supporting the end rather than a bunch of screws. Never thought of biscuit jointing the two.

Ron

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

I think the new Escape management has made some great changes in availability of flooring, counter tops etc.. There are also great standard features that already come with the Escape like the outside sewage light and the rear receiver. However, there are a few things that I think should be standard when you are buying a $30,000 plus trailer. I can’t see that my suggestions would cost them more than $200 and I would have been more than happy to pay the extra.

Let’s start with the foot pads for the jacks. My last cheapo trailer had them and I was shocked to find our new Escape was missing them on delivery. I can’t understand how a jack company can make such a jack without them and how Escape can let a $30,000 plus trailer out of the factory without them.
At least this is an easy fix using a block of wood or buying the metal foot pads yourself.

Not so easy to fix is the single outside step. Trust me...you just cannot bolt a two step unit on. The step down to the step from the inside was approximately 7 inches. From the step to the ground was another 14 inches...way more than is generally acceptable for a “standard step”. Yes, you can use a stool...but why should you have to as many other trailers have more than one step. I will not go further on this item as there are indications that Escape has been listening and is working on a two step design...Great!

Next is new full length cross supports under the bed instead of the 40 screws they use to make the short supports work. Either from side to side in the 21 or front to back in the 19. So little cost and wood required to do it in a traditional manner.

Lastly is to have the propane tank base welded to the frame rather than using the screws that have been known to rust out/off. Luckily most people have found their tanks loose before they have come completely off.

These are the things that I would like to see changed and would be willing to pay a little extra for to cover costs.

What would you like to see standard and would be willing to pay for?

Ed I agree with all your suggestions. Pat