Turning off the 2-Way Hot Water Tank

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I don't think Jim fished wires. It sounds like he simply intercepted the 120V line as it heads to the water heater. I assume there was enough slack to wire it to the switch in the existing outlet box. It doesn't really matter though because you have a solution that works!

Exactly. I was fortunate that the cable ran right past this duplex plug with enough slack to easily tie it in.

Originally Posted by garysd

Thanks all for the info, everybody! I'll study Jim's mod to do something similar so I don't have to flip the breaker or open the outside cover to turn off the 120V power.

Gary

It would also be easy to run a cable from a preferred switch location near the water heater to the existing WH connection, and splice in the switch on the hot.

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Both links where Jim sourced his small LED lights are no longer found

They were from The Source, but any wee 120V and 12V LED would do the same thing.

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Don't forget that Classic owners with the original style Suburban gas water heater switch can also opt to replace the switch with one that lights up when the switch is on.

www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8/water-heater-indicator-lights-and-120v-switch-1165-2.html#post210886

Originally Posted by rubicon327

The link shows an "Industrial Grade" switch which I'm sure is commanding a premium. There are definitely more economical options given the application. This is one, but it has a different form factor with the separate light:

www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-Heavy-Duty-Grade-15-Amp-Combination-Single-Pole-Toggle-Switch-and-Pilot-Light-in-White-277W-BOX/203492444

This would do the trick well, but I would have had to order one, whereas the switch and LED I used were locally available.

Just to throw a wrench into the works, I will be swapping out my control panel with one that has a 120V WH switch built in, and installing the relay on the WH needed to switch the power on.

[Red Dog]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Just to throw a wrench into the works, I will be swapping out my control panel with one that has a 120V WH switch built in, and installing the relay on the WH needed to switch the power on.

Jim, where did you get the control panel that has a 120V WH switch built into it?

I am interested in doing that. I already have the relay.



Fred M.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Red Dog

Jim, where did you get the control panel that has a 120V WH switch built into it?

I am interested in doing that. I already have the relay.



Fred M.

I got it directly from KIB. Free shipping in the US (actually, will ship to the US only), and paid $47.75. This is the contact info for who I dealt with there. The model is the KIB M1086.


Bill Craft

KIB Electronics | Service & Warranty
2504 Jeanwood Drive, Elkhart, IN 46514
Direct: (574) 327-6534
Office: (574) 262-0518
Fax: (574) 262-5172
bcraft@kib.us
_______________

This is a link where Tom (tdf-texas) listed one he found on eBay. A different model, but looks the same. Still, I would get it from KIB directly and make certain you are getting what you are looking for.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f4...tml#post170983

For those that would need it, here is a link to another post of Tom's with a link to where to buy the relay, and the wiring diagram. It just ties in in series with the power to the water heater. You do need to run a single positive wire from the new control panel to the relay to wire it in, the negative is common to the other components on the panel.

[ThomasG]

I'm confused why someone would use the relay method vs the 120V AC switch to turn the hot water heater on/off from inside the trailer. It seems the AC switch in the 120V supply to the hot water heater under the dinette seat is easier and cheaper to install compared to the relay in the hot water heater and running additional wires to the inside of the trailer. Is the relay method preferred so you can have both controls (electric and propane) and their indicator lights on one panel?

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by ThomasG

Is the relay method preferred so you can have both controls (electric and propane) and their indicator lights on one panel?

Yes.

I like to have the ease of switching inside, with indication that the electric option is on, thus the reason for my original mod in my 19 years ago.

The mod will actually be easier, and put the controls all together. The cost is minimal considering all the costs of the trailer, travelling and camping.

I do these kinda things because I can, not because I need to. I enjoy tinkering and achieving what I see as the ultimate solution FOR ME, and just share what I am doing. It gives me pride of ownership, not a bad thing.

[Red Dog]

Originally Posted by ThomasG

Is the relay method preferred so you can have both controls (electric and propane) and their indicator lights on one panel?

Yes...because that is what Lola wants...

...and, what Lola wants, Lola gets.

Fred M.

[padlin]

Originally Posted by ThomasG

I'm confused why someone would use the relay method vs the 120V AC switch to turn the hot water heater on/off from inside the trailer.

Can't say I understand the relay either, mines just a straight AC switch. Must have dozed.

[Red Dog]

Originally Posted by padlin

Can't say I understand the relay either, mines just a straight AC switch. Must have dozed.

Just different strokes for different folks...

Fred M.

[Red Dog]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I got it directly from KIB. Free shipping in the US (actually, will ship to the US only), and paid $47.75. This is the contact info for who I dealt with there. The model is the KIB M1086.

Got it ordered today. Thanks Jim!

Fred M.