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12-24-2017, 09:41 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Prescott Valley, Arizona
Trailer: Escape #2 - 2017 ‘21; 2018 Silverado 2500 (diesel, crew cab, long box, 4X4, SnugTop, air bags)
Posts: 135
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Understanding Charging Systems
Here's a great series of blog posts about how RV battery charging systems work.
https://roadslesstraveled.us/rv-mari...harging-basics
__________________
Jeff
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12-24-2017, 09:47 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Retired from Dallas & Full-Timing, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape as of 01/16/17
Posts: 1,312
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Thanks! I am all about learning new stuff!!!
Fred M.
__________________
Fred M.
"Whoever said retirement was overrated...
...never had an Escape"
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12-24-2017, 04:31 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,210
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Am wanting to check specific gravity on my dual 6V. As per instructions I removed any charge source by disconnecting negative then positive cables and am going to let them rest for an hour.
Weird thing is my interior lights and range hood fan still work! Huh? I do have factory solar.
No shore power or umbilical connected btw.
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12-24-2017, 04:40 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,210
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The lights are flickering; perhaps there is some residual power stored somewhere.
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12-24-2017, 04:51 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Surrey, British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19'
Posts: 264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
The lights are flickering; perhaps there is some residual power stored somewhere.
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If your battery disconnect is in the normal (ON) position, your solar system would be connected to the trailer 12V system, so your solar is running the lights directly. Check your solar manual, it might suggest to cover the solar panels if disconnecting the battery.
But leaving a 12V load from the trailer ON might keep the solar controller within its operating voltage range.
__________________
Kirk & Shelley
2014 19'
Surrey, Beautiful BC, Canada
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12-24-2017, 05:48 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
Am wanting to check specific gravity on my dual 6V. As per instructions I removed any charge source by disconnecting negative then positive cables and am going to let them rest for an hour.
Weird thing is my interior lights and range hood fan still work! Huh? I do have factory solar.
No shore power or umbilical connected btw.
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This is a bad idea if you have the GoPower solar controller. The manual states that the panels must be disconnected (or covered) before the controller is disconnected from the batteries.
Unless you have added a panel disconnect switch, if you have solar, the best way to check the battery state of charge by voltage is to wait until dark, unplug from any other charging source (the tow vehicle and campground power pedestal), then add a small load (an amp or two) for half an hour or so, remove the load, and measure the voltage.
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12-24-2017, 05:59 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 2,716
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So I guess we have the common single stage Atwood 55?
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12-24-2017, 06:29 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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If you are asking about the converter, it's a WFCO 8955 if things have not changed. It's a multistage, but rarely goes into bulk.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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12-24-2017, 06:57 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 2,716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin
If you are asking about the converter, it's a WFCO 8955 if things have not changed. It's a multistage, but rarely goes into bulk.
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Great...thanks
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12-24-2017, 07:40 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye
This is a bad idea if you have the GoPower solar controller. The manual states that the panels must be disconnected (or covered) before the controller is disconnected from the batteries.
Unless you have added a panel disconnect switch, if you have solar, the best way to check the battery state of charge by voltage is to wait until dark, unplug from any other charging source (the tow vehicle and campground power pedestal), then add a small load (an amp or two) for half an hour or so, remove the load, and measure the voltage.
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So I read the instructions before starting as I seem to remember you or someone else stating the above warning, however I didn't see it. I do sometimes have the Mr. Magoo syndrom(which drives Susan nuts!), however does anyone else see it in the instructions? I did this two years ago when replacing my Group 29 12V with dual 6V and had no problem then either. Anyway, have put it all back together and seems ok.
http://gpelectric.com/files/gpelectr...-PWM-30_vD.pdf
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12-24-2017, 09:15 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Trailer: 2015 E'21 - 'Velocity'. Tow: Toyota Tacoma V6, 4X4, manual.
Posts: 1,684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
Am wanting to check specific gravity on my dual 6V. As per instructions I removed any charge source by disconnecting negative then positive cables and am going to let them rest for an hour.
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If you absolutely want to "disconnect" the batteries with a minimum of work then remove one end of the wire that goes between the two 6s. It doesn't matter which end.
When this is done then neither the solar charger, any other charger, nor any discharge loads, will have an effect on the batteries - if you measure one at a time. (In other words if your multi- meter is reading between 5 and 6.5 volts). Add the two readings (one for each battery) to get the 12 volt total. This also works for checking specific gravity.
The point is - two 6v batteries, if not connected in the middle, are totally out of the circuit. No charge, no discharge - just dead weight.
--
Alan
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12-24-2017, 09:40 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,210
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That's what my first thought was, as is the case with a car battery. Have never had batteries in series before though and thought better safe than sorry. Next time two less terminals to bother with; thanks Alan.
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12-25-2017, 11:10 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
So I read the instructions before starting as I seem to remember you or someone else stating the above warning, however I didn't see it. I do sometimes have the Mr. Magoo syndrom(which drives Susan nuts!), however does anyone else see it in the instructions? I did this two years ago when replacing my Group 29 12V with dual 6V and had no problem then either. Anyway, have put it all back together and seems ok.
http://gpelectric.com/files/gpelectr...-PWM-30_vD.pdf
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I just looked through both the operating & installation manuals of the current GoPower controller, and you are correct - this warning no longer appears. They do tell you to cover the panels during installation & when working on the system, but that is to prevent shock.
The warning I mentioned was in the manual for the older 25 amp GoPower installation manual, and is often stated with other manufacturer's controllers, so I'd still avoid disconnecting the batteries without shutting down the output of the panel.
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12-31-2017, 12:59 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Carrollton, Texas
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21, 2017 Toyota Tundra 5.7L 4x4
Posts: 549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff and Karen
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I just read very well written set of posts. I has me wondering about our WF-8900 converter not having an equalization stage. With the trailer plugged in for an extended period of time, would shutting off the converter weekly for a few hours force the converter into the Bulk charge mode and help slough off some sulfate from the battery plates?
__________________
Rick and Vicky Reed
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12-31-2017, 01:24 PM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richardr
I just read very well written set of posts. I has me wondering about our WF-8900 converter not having an equalization stage. With the trailer plugged in for an extended period of time, would shutting off the converter weekly for a few hours force the converter into the Bulk charge mode and help slough off some sulfate from the battery plates?
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Theoretically, the WFCO charger will not go into 'boost' charge mode unless the batteries need it - when it detects less than 90% of charge. To my mind, shutting off the converter weekly for a few hours won't accomplish that. Also, you've no way of knowing what cycle it's in when charging unless you break out a voltmeter. If you want a desulfation cycle, I would think it requires changing out the charger for a true 4-stage one, something like a PD4655MBA. That one can also be manually controlled.
I think a desulfation cycle is probably the most important factor for longevity when batteries are stored long term. Only a 4-stage charger can do that.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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12-31-2017, 01:47 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19
Posts: 555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
Am wanting to check specific gravity on my dual 6V. As per instructions I removed any charge source by disconnecting negative then positive cables and am going to let them rest for an hour.
Weird thing is my interior lights and range hood fan still work! Huh? I do have factory solar.
No shore power or umbilical connected btw.
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The question I have is, why would you have to disconnect the batteries to check the specific gravity? I use a refractometer (the are cheap on e-bay). If you want to check no load voltage I would just wait till night time.
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12-31-2017, 02:20 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,210
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Was under impression that you needed to remove any charging source before testing specific gravity, and we have solar. Is that not the case?
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12-31-2017, 03:04 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
Was under impression that you needed to remove any charging source before testing specific gravity, and we have solar. Is that not the case?
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I don't have solar connected, but I'm on shore power all winter. I unplug the trailer for an hour or more ( to allow 'surface charge' to dissipate ) before checking specific gravity.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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12-31-2017, 04:16 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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You can also just turn on a light or similar for a few minutes before checking.
Has anyone seen their WFCO go into bulk?
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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12-31-2017, 07:08 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Carrollton, Texas
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21, 2017 Toyota Tundra 5.7L 4x4
Posts: 549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin
You can also just turn on a light or similar for a few minutes before checking.
Has anyone seen their WFCO go into bulk?
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I have noticed a pull of about 6 amps on my EMS meter when starting up the Honda generator after driving for a day. I attributed this to charging the battery. I found I needed to wait a bit before starting the AC due to overloading the generator.
__________________
Rick and Vicky Reed
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