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Old 10-30-2019, 04:09 PM   #61
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I installed one years ago in a 13' Scamp. I put in a CO alarm with digital output and it did produce a small amount of CO but less than enough to set off the alarm. I found a research paper at the time that verified my measurements and posted a link to it. This was all on Fiberglass RV if anyone wants to search for it. By the time we left enough windows open for ventilation to accommodate the CO and water vapor, it just wasn't worth it. i would not do it again.
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Old 10-30-2019, 04:48 PM   #62
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The best way of dealing with a hazard (such as a Carbon Monoxide producing heater) is to eliminate it. If the hazard is not removed, measures (opening windows, not using while sleeping, CO detectors) can be taken to mitigate the risks, however, there is always a chance that one or more of those mitigative measures will fail. In this instance, the consequences of that happening are pretty high (serious injury or death). My choice would be to use a heat source that does not introduce a CO hazard in the first place.
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Old 10-30-2019, 05:15 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
I installed one years ago in a 13' Scamp. I put in a CO alarm with digital output and it did produce a small amount of CO but less than enough to set off the alarm. I found a research paper at the time that verified my measurements and posted a link to it. This was all on Fiberglass RV if anyone wants to search for it. By the time we left enough windows open for ventilation to accommodate the CO and water vapor, it just wasn't worth it. i would not do it again.
Yep, propane in an oxygen-rich environment mostly produces CO2 instead of CO. That's true of the Wave catalytic heaters and the newer/fancier Mr Heater Buddy ones as well. The problem comes when the O2 levels drop just a little bit over time (long before they're low enough to be a problem for humans). Combustion starts producing more and more CO, and it takes very little CO to kill people. Presumably higher-risk at higher altitudes as well, since the air's thinner.
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Old 10-30-2019, 05:31 PM   #64
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My detector was measuring ppm levels of CO which were well below the threshold for the alarm to go off almost as soon as I lit the heater. I'd be okay with a catalytic heater to heat up the camper before bed or first thing in the morning, but I would never trust it when sleeping. Same for the ones with oxygen depletion sensors. I just would not trust my life to an inexpensive mass produced safety device like that. Not lecturing; to each his own. My personal minimums for sleeping are more in keeping with the furnace in our Escape, sail switch and all.
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Old 10-31-2019, 02:36 PM   #65
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To answer the original post of this thread:

I use a Wave3 heater in my Escape 21. It has similar floor plan to the 5.TA once you have passed the sink.

I would not mount it permanent near the front door as the heat then basically escapes any time you open the door.

I did not mount mine for some of the reasons stated, it is more flexible to use the optional Wave feet so can move the unit around. After many hours of use, I do not have a single location I would mount it.

I run the thread mounter propane hose out a hole under the passenger bench, out a port covered hole in the fiberglass and then connect to the quick disconnect in front of the door on passenger side. This way, I have no swivel or valve connections inside the trailer, only threaded fittings and hosing exactly like how the furnace, water heater and stove are connected.

This set up works great for me.

I store the Wave3 under the beanch during warms seasons, but it comes with me so available anytime I need it.

Much lower propane consumption than built in furnace, silent and zero electricity.

I can provide photos if desired.
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