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Old 12-28-2021, 08:09 AM   #101
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The 90W panel was slightly smaller and quite a bit less expensive. It’s mounted between the max fan and the rear vent where the A/C will go someday. I wanted to keep the panel there a bit smaller anticipating shading from those two roof obstructions. Also the 100W panel will overhang the curved flanks of the roof where the 90 sits right on top (on the 5.0, at least).
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Old 12-28-2021, 09:48 AM   #102
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Also, at the time I was considering combining the middle panel with the original 190W GoPower panel on the same controller and the 90 was a better match in terms of Vmp.
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Old 12-28-2021, 10:08 AM   #103
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The 90W panel was slightly smaller and quite a bit less expensive. Its mounted between the max fan and the rear vent where the A/C will go someday. I wanted to keep the panel there a bit smaller anticipating shading from those two roof obstructions. Also the 100W panel will overhang the curved flanks of the roof where the 90 sits right on top (on the 5.0, at least).
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Also, at the time I was considering combining the middle panel with the original 190W GoPower panel on the same controller and the 90 was a better match in terms of Vmp.
Thank you Mark. They have those Zamp Legacy 90W panels still available as B stock but if I stray from the Obsidian then I might also consider the Renogy 100W Eclipse panel that looks pretty good or others recommended by Will Prowse like something from Rich Solar.
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Old 12-28-2021, 06:42 PM   #104
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Rubicon327 for your consideration. These little babies have worked great. Play well with original G.P. wired in parallel for max shading, neatly wired to a single Victron smart 100/30 and additional exterior panel when needed, additional Victron 30 amp DC/DC works very nice!



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Old 01-13-2022, 11:17 AM   #105
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a PD4655LI is a direct replacement for the WFCO 8955 power module, specifically for LiFePO4 batteries.
Getting our new 5.0 in a few weeks. First thing we are doing is swapping out the ETI supplied WYCO converter charger for a PD4655LIV converter charger.
I have it in hand, ready to go.
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Old 01-13-2022, 12:11 PM   #106
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A couple findings:

So there is no way to measure the output of the DC-DC with the Victron shunt.

A second finding was that there are no negative returns coming from the tank heaters. Once again, I can’t directly measure their draw using the Victron shunt.
Thanks much for this detailed description and pics of your electrical work. We are getting our 5.0 is a few weeks and plan similar electrical work as soon as it arrives. Already purchased most all of the gear and batteries.

One significant difference is our choice of shunts. We bought a Thornwave Shunt which operates on the positive side, instead of the negative side. We believe monitoring the positive side gives more complete usage picture. Also the Thornwave stores 3 years of data at the shunt and is noted to have stronger BT range.

A second difference is we are also swapping out the ETI provided WYCO converter charger for a PD4655LIV converter charger.

Liked how you built your system on plywood on your bench. Stealing that method as that's a huge knee saver. Great job and thanks so much for the pics. Actually seeing this work completed with a good result helps us feel much better about pulling apart the electrics on a brand new trailer.

Question: Did you relocate the GP inverter or does it come from ETI in that spot?

I attached our diagram. Starting this work as soon as the trailer is delivered. Delivery is delayed on a backordered refrigerator, of all things...laff.
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Old 01-13-2022, 01:13 PM   #107
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Thanks much for this detailed description and pics of your electrical work. We are getting our 5.0 is a few weeks and plan similar electrical work as soon as it arrives. Already purchased most all of the gear and batteries.

One significant difference is our choice of shunts. We bought a Thornwave Shunt which operates on the positive side, instead of the negative side. We believe monitoring the positive side gives more complete usage picture. Also the Thornwave stores 3 years of data at the shunt and is noted to have stronger BT range.
I have a Thornwave monitor/shunt that I'll be installing in the spring and I'm planning on putting it on the ground. Seems a lot safer that way since the shunt I'm using is very exposed, and if anything "grounded" touches it it won't be a big event. V=IR and the shunt is just measuring the voltage drop across a known resistance. Current on the positive and negative of the battery are the same, so all should be fine. I'll need to wire up the Thornwave power supply and voltage monitor just slightly different than what their diagram shows, but I don't see any issues on why it won't work.
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Old 01-13-2022, 03:48 PM   #108
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I have a Thornwave monitor/shunt that I'll be installing in the spring and I'm planning on putting it on the ground. Seems a lot safer that way since the shunt I'm using is very exposed, and if anything "grounded" touches it it won't be a big event.
These holders work well to prevent any potential shunt shorts (see pic). I need to protect the positive battery terminals in a similar way. It's just my wife & I. She will be good about not tossing random metal objects under that bench. I'm told that the DC2DC charger is grounded to the chassis & has no negative returns to the batteries. Don't have the trailer yet so don't know if any other cases of that exist, yet. The positive shunt will capture that data.
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Old 01-13-2022, 06:45 PM   #109
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We believe monitoring the positive side gives more complete usage picture.
um, no, the same current is on the negative wire to the batteries as is on the positive wire.

btw, in your drawing, you show 6 AWG from the shunt to the negative terminal. that wire carries no current, its just a voltage monitor, it could be AWG 24 for all that it matters.

my simplified design so far... (parts sitting on a piece of foamcore I'm using to mock up the layout before I cut plywood. )


  • battery main wires are all AWG4 to the power center (which isn't shown), max expected is the 55A charging power from the PD4655Li
  • solar PV wires are AWG 10 because thats what the trailer is prewired with, and my 360W panel is 10 amps at 36V, so AWG10 is adequate.
  • solar batt wires are AWG 6 because its max 30 amps for a very short distance.
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Old 01-13-2022, 10:23 PM   #110
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um, no, the same current is on the negative wire to the batteries as is on the positive wire.
True, when all equipment has a negative feed back to the shunt and battery. It's said ETI installs the DC2DC charger for their 5.0 Lithium electrical installs with only a positive feed running to the back of the trailer to the battery and runs the DC2DC charger's negative lead to the chassis, locally at the front of the trailer. In this case, the positive shunt will capture that data and a negative shunt won't be able to see that negative feed current.

btw, in your drawing, you show 6 AWG from the shunt to the negative terminal. that wire carries no current, its just a voltage monitor, it could be AWG 24 for all that it matters.

That's an "equipment ground". Thornwave provides a 1/4" blade to provide a equipment ground to the chassis as a safety, much the same as the solar controllers and inverter have. I need to correct the DC2DC charger diagram. It should show only the positive lead to the distributer. The negative lead will go to the chassis in the front of the trailer instead of the distributer in the rear of the trailer, unless I run a negative lead from the front to the rear of the trailer, like ETI should do.
Understood, I can down size the equipment ground lead quite a bit but I may have a bunch of wire left over I'd like to use up if possible. I may just use some of the ETI wire that's no longer used. It's just a number placeholder until I see what's left over. Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2022, 11:31 PM   #111
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my negative side battery monitoring shunt... both those black AWG 4 wires are carrying the full ground current of the batteries. even if some load use a chassis ground (brakes in ebrake mode), the chassis is tied to the powercenter negative, same as the negative shunt. all battery current runs through that shunt on its way back from the power center ground and/or chassis circuits.
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Old 01-13-2022, 11:53 PM   #112
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anyways I should post what I'm doing on my thread and not confuse yours ;-D
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Old 01-14-2022, 09:31 AM   #113
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A second difference is we are also swapping out the ETI provided WYCO converter charger for a PD4655LIV converter charger.
Im sure the PD4655LIV is a better unit than the stock WFCO, but FWIW Ive not had any issues with the WFCO since upgrading the wires to 6AWG and eliminating the undersized breakers. So, for me, not worth the swap. My opinion could change if I experience any weirdness with the WFCO in the future, but at that point, I think I will upgrade to an inverter/charger, probably Victron since it plays well with the other Victron components I have.

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Question: Did you relocate the GP inverter or does it come from ETI in that spot?
Yes, I relocated the inverter to the back of the dinette.

I assume you are planning for a bigger inverter in the future with 4/0 cables between the battery bank and the Lynx distributors? I used 2/0 in those areas, thinking I would probably never need bigger than a 2000W inverter. Were living with the 1500W GP unit and it has been adequate thus far.

One surprise when I got the trailer is that it came with a separate transfer switch. I had asked Escape if they could substitute a 2000W inverter and was told no, so just assumed that was because they were using the GoPower 1500W inverter with the the built in transfer switch. Turns out, no, they use the cheaper inverter and separate WFCO transfer switch. I wish I had just ordered the trailer with no inverter, since I ended up rewiring everything anyway.

Good luck with your build. Youll want a quality heavy duty crimper and cable cutter, and some muscle!
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Old 01-14-2022, 10:21 AM   #114
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I’m sure the PD4655LIV is a better unit than the stock WFCO, but FWIW I’ve not had any issues with the WFCO since upgrading the wires to 6AWG and eliminating the undersized breakers. So, for me, not worth the swap.

I assume you are planning for a bigger inverter in the future with 4/0 cables between the battery bank and the Lynx distributors? Good luck with your build. You’ll want a quality heavy duty crimper and cable cutter, and some muscle!
Thanks for your reply & all the wonderful info. We decided to swap out the WFCO charger as an effort to treat our 4 batteries in the most optimal way. The PD swap unit wasn't very expensive & while doing all the other work just wanted to check off that box. Same deal using the 4.0 wiring. Not sure what the future will bring and we will see if the GP 1500 watt inverter does the job. If we decide on a bigger inverter in the future the wiring is ready to go and no need to revisit the wiring work.

Hear you on having the right tools & already picked those up. Just waiting on ETI to nab a refrig and get the trailer delivered to us. Pictures are showing it completed but they are waiting on a refrig backorder.

Question: Have you had any issues with heat build up under the bench? We had that concern & discussed the need to add a grill for ventilation, perhaps. Is that a reality with your build?

Thanks again for all the great info!
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Old 01-14-2022, 11:30 AM   #115
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I’m sure the PD4655LIV is a better unit than the stock WFCO, but FWIW I’ve not had any issues with the WFCO since upgrading the wires to 6AWG and eliminating the undersized breakers. So, for me, not worth the swap. My opinion could change if I experience any weirdness with the WFCO in the future, ...!
I replaced a dead WFCO 8955 on a big sticky trailer parked next to us in the Elks Lodge camping in Chico last summer. his converter had died, his batteries were dead, and his A/C stopped working because the thermostat required 12V. It was 106F in the shade.

My wife had taken my truck to Reno for 2 days, and it had all my tools and my volt meter, so diagnosing it was challenging, but I confirmed the power module was dead, he managed to get a PD4655 on a saturday from the parts counter of an RV repair place an hour away. next morning, when my wife got back from reno, and I had my tools, I installed it for him, and boom, everything worked. I warned him his batteries were probably close to end-of-life. Fixing his power only delayed me packing up to leave for home by about an hour.
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Old 01-14-2022, 12:09 PM   #116
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You are a good man there John, helping a stranger in need!
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Old 01-14-2022, 07:54 PM   #117
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We bought a Thornwave Shunt which operates on the positive side, instead of the negative side. We believe monitoring the positive side gives more complete usage picture.
The same current goes through the positive and negative connections, so neither location gives a more complete picture.

By the way, it's "WFCO", not "WYCO"... just in case anyone is doing a search.
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Old 01-14-2022, 07:58 PM   #118
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I attached our diagram...
It looks tidy, but I don't see the point of fusing the current from the converter or solar charge controllers. These devices are incapable of delivering more current than the wire rating, and if you use the original WFCO installation the converter already has fuses in the power centre; they're not like batteries.
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Old 01-14-2022, 08:01 PM   #119
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I'm told that the DC2DC charger is grounded to the chassis & has no negative returns to the batteries. Don't have the trailer yet so don't know if any other cases of that exist, yet. The positive shunt will capture that data.
No, it won't.

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Originally Posted by Jack! View Post
... It's said ETI installs the DC2DC charger for their 5.0 Lithium electrical installs with only a positive feed running to the back of the trailer to the battery and runs the DC2DC charger's negative lead to the chassis, locally at the front of the trailer. In this case, the positive shunt will capture that data and a negative shunt won't be able to see that negative feed current.
The shunt, whether it is located in the positive or negative battery connection, measures net current in or out of the battery. Current from any source (converter, DC-to-DC, solar charge controller) which flows to any load (including the inverter) without going through the battery is not measured. A monitor on either side of the battery tells you what is happening to the battery, not all power produced and consumed by the trailer.
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Old 01-15-2022, 08:06 AM   #120
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It looks tidy, but I don't see the point of fusing the current from the converter or solar charge controllers. These devices are incapable of delivering more current than the wire rating, and if you use the original WFCO installation the converter already has fuses in the power centre; they're not like batteries.
https://www.explorist.life/how-to-wi...trical-system/
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