Who is the Escape Solar Whisperer?

[WillyB]

Soon to be Escapee, solar dummy.

We are planning on the getting the one solar panel with two 6V batteries option. Question: If I add the Solar Port option is it a simple as connecting a portable panel for those shady camp sites?

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by WillyB

Soon to be Escapee, solar dummy.

We are planning on the getting the one solar panel with two 6V batteries option. Question: If I add the Solar Port option is it a simple as connecting a portable panel for those shady camp sites?

Some to that is being discussed right now in the Costco Solar Panel thread.

The answer is yes, with some caveats.

tdf-texas is extremely knowledgeable when it comes to all things electric.

[WillyB]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

Some to that is being discussed right now in the Costco Solar Panel thread.

The answer is yes, with some caveats.

tdf-texas is extremely knowledgeable when it comes to all things electric.

Thanks!

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by WillyB

Soon to be Escapee, solar dummy.

We are planning on the getting the one solar panel with two 6V batteries option. Question: If I add the Solar Port option is it a simple as connecting a portable panel for those shady camp sites?

The solar port option will allow connecting a portable solar panel to your solar system and yes, they come in really handy when the trailer panels are in shade.

Portable panels usually come with short MC4 connector leads that can be extended using MC4 extension cables to get the panel where the sun is shining. Having several short lengths that can be connected in series is better than one long one. The more extension wiring, the more voltage loss so try to keep the extension cables as short as possible.
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-20FT-1...07Z8YCR68?th=1

I have had a Lensun portable folding panel for about four years and it has helped keep my batteries from getting too low when parked in shade or as extra power on cloudy days.
https://www.lensunsolar.com/

There has been some confusion on the solar ports as they are sometimes refered to as Zamp ports. Be careful - Zamp ports are reversed polarity from the standard SAE solar ports and like connecting batteries reversed, if the portable panel is connected reverse polarity from the trailer panels, you will loose power rather than gain it. All portable solar panels, except Zamp, use a SAE solar port to connect so it's a good idea to remind Escape to wire it as such. Below is a diagram for a SAE solar port.

[WillyB]

Thanks TDF-Texas!!!!

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

The solar port option will allow connecting a portable solar panel to your solar system and yes, they come in really handy when the trailer panels are in shade.

Portable panels usually come with short MC4 connector leads that can be extended using MC4 extension cables to get the panel where the sun is shining. Having several short lengths that can be connected in series is better than one long one. The more extension wiring, the more voltage loss so try to keep the extension cables as short as possible.
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-20FT-1...07Z8YCR68?th=1

I have had a Lensun portable folding panel for about four years and it has helped keep my batteries from getting too low when parked in shade or as extra power on cloudy days.
https://www.lensunsolar.com/

There has been some confusion on the solar ports as they are sometimes refered to as Zamp ports. Be careful - Zamp ports are reversed polarity from the standard SAE solar ports and like connecting batteries reversed, if the portable panel is connected reverse polarity from the trailer panels, you will loose power rather than gain it. All portable solar panels, except Zamp, use a SAE solar port to connect so it's a good idea to remind Escape to wire it as such. Below is a diagram for a SAE solar port.

Here is an MC4 to Zamp adapter and includes a polarity reverser if needed.

50cm 10AWG SAE to Male & Female Adapter 10AWG Cable with SAE Conector for RV Panel Solar

[tdf-texas]

Yes, it's hard to get the right adapter cables as some are Zamp and some are SAE. The only good part is that when you get the cabling / solar port wiring all sorted out, it's a no brainer to get the panel connected.

I ended up making my own adapter cable using these.
https://www.amazon.com/iGreely-Autom...48&sr=8-5&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Female...08NV2G241?th=1

I cut one end off the SAE cable with the wire colors matching my trailer solar port polarity and installed the matching MC4 connectors. A voltmeter measuring the volts out of the trailer solar port really helps to be sure the polarities are correct when doing this.

[WillyB]

What is Zamp's reason for their polarity configuration? Sure seems like a why to have unsafe outcomes.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

Here is an MC4 to Zamp adapter and includes a polarity reverser if needed.

50cm 10AWG SAE to Male & Female Adapter 10AWG Cable with SAE Conector for RV Panel Solar

Reading the review comments of this adapter is interesting! Kinda makes my point of the confusion between Zamp and SAE solar connections. A voltmeter really helps to get all this sorted out.
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digit...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by WillyB

What is Zamp's reason for their polarity configuration? Sure seems like a why to have unsafe outcomes.

Zamp did this to make their solar system proprietary vs the rest of the solar industry. If you own any part of the Zamp system, then because of the reversed SAE standard implementation, it makes adding anything solar other than Zamp stuff a pain to deal with.

Here is why the SAE standard mandates that the positive connection is the female pin of the socket. The positive lead of the current supplying device, by SAE standards, is always connected to the female connector pin isolating it from possible shorting back to ground. If the "male" pin of the socket was positive, as the Zamp port is, then there is the possibility of shorting the male pin to ground causing all kinds of havoc.

On a RV, the trailer battery is always the current supplying device - not the solar panel. Shorting the trailer battery to ground - well, that's easy to imagine what happens. On the solar panel, shorting the positive lead does nothing - in fact, shorting the solar panel leads together is how you test the solar panel output by measuring the shorted panel current. Here are videos that discusses some of this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6kDJVNcT24

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh6hzMb69gY

As most RV portable soalr ports are connected to the input of the trailer solar controller, the solar port has no SAE defined current source and it really doesn't matter which pin is positive/negative as far a safety is concerned. Still, following standards is a good idea to reduce confusion so I recommend sticking with SAE solar port wiring rather than the stuff Zamp uses.

My solution is to never buy anything Zamp - their stuff is overpriced for what you get and I don't support nonstandard stuff if possible.

That they are allowed to do this in violation of SAE standards is the part I don't understand.

[brroberts]

ETI would not wire my factory option Zamp port “backwards.” I was short on time, so it’s still wired Zamp, but I have a permanently reversed 20’ 6ga extension cable.

[WillyB]

If I'm understanding correctly I should never trust a solar port. Positive is the same as Negative and Zamp is the opposite of other brands and is wired backwards to protect the Zamp brand.

That just seems crazy and dangerous.

[MyronL]

My two cents: I carry two portable solar panels, nothing fancy, and they get connected to controller in tongue box, as seen in picture, along with one 190 w solar panel on the roof, which I hard wired into same controller. The two leads for my 2 portables are different types, only to keep me from being confused.

[California Dreaming]

I'm interested in adding portable solar panels to my 2014 15' Escape. When I purchased my trailer, I had it "pre-wired for solar". Does anyone know what that entailed and if possible, recommendations on what else is needed to successfully connect portable solar panels or install roof panels. TIA!!!

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by California Dreaming

I'm interested in adding portable solar panels to my 2014 15' Escape. When I purchased my trailer, I had it "pre-wired for solar". Does anyone know what that entailed and if possible, recommendations on what else is needed to successfully connect portable solar panels or install roof panels. TIA!!!

To my knowledge that means wiring was run from under the dinette, to a connector on the roof, so you could put a solar panel on the roof and a solar controller under the dinette.

Nothing that would apply to a portable solar panel.

[gbaglo]

Don't know where your battery (ies ) is, are, but on my 17B, the battery is on the rear bumper and I connect to the terminals with alligator clips. The panels came with solar controllers ( I only use one of the controllers ).

[California Dreaming]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

To my knowledge that means wiring was run from under the dinette, to a connector on the roof, so you could put a solar panel on the roof and a solar controller under the dinette.

Nothing that would apply to a portable solar panel.

Thanks, TT Martin! That sounds about right. I contacted ETI to confirm and waiting to hear back.

[California Dreaming]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Don't know where your battery (ies ) is, are, but on my 17B, the battery is on the rear bumper and I connect to the terminals with alligator clips. The panels came with solar controllers ( I only use one of the controllers ).

Oh, well that's a smart way to to do it. Avoid additional costs and labor. Just hook up and soak it in. Thanks so much!!!

[California Dreaming]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

To my knowledge that means wiring was run from under the dinette, to a connector on the roof, so you could put a solar panel on the roof and a solar controller under the dinette.

Nothing that would apply to a portable solar panel.

Here's the response I received from ETI:
"the solar prewire consisted of a coiled-up wire above the fridge which can be accessed through the top roof vent, the other end terminates at the converter, there you will see another part of the wire coiled up."

So if I go with rooftop panel option, I'll need to add a solar converter under the dinette then plug and play. Right?