Zamp vs...??

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by padlin

I'm considering chopping off the MC4's and using SAE's or Anderson Power poles.

I just did the opposite with a couple connections on my Go Power portable panel, as the MC4's are more the industry standard, and are way less bulky.

What I did with my portable panel was to use connectors to bypass the controller if I was using the one on the trailer, and could still use the one that came installed on the panel if connected elsewhere.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by padlin

I believe the "Zamp" connector Thoer shows is really an SAE 2 conductor.

Yes; it's special only because it is mounted in a plate, while almost all connectors of this type are just moulded onto the end of two-conductor cable.

Originally Posted by padlin

I'm considering chopping off the MC4's and using SAE's or Anderson Power poles.

Powerpoles aren't sealed (which can be okay, depending on where the connector is). I've never used MC4 connectors, but they must be better than those "SAE" or "bullet" connectors... just about everything is.

[stephen99]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

A question on the MC4 connectors related to the above plan? Do you not need a special tool to "open" a MC4 connector? I thought I had read that somewhere and immediately thought to myself, "I will never find that tool when I need it."

I misread your question in my first response. To open the connectors you do need to depress a couple of small tabs but this can even be done by someone with short fingernails like me.

[padlin]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I just did the opposite with a couple connections on my Go Power portable panel, as the MC4's are more the industry standard, and are way less bulky.

What I did with my portable panel was to use connectors to bypass the controller if I was using the one on the trailer, and could still use the one that came installed on the panel if connected elsewhere.

The MC4's that came on the trailer mounted panel look an awful lot bulkier then either SAE or Power Poles, at least the ones that I have. Have you connected/disconnected the MC4's, is it pretty easy? I haven't done so but they look like something I'd break after a few iterations.

Whatever I do I'm running out of time to get parts.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by padlin

The MC4's that came on the trailer mounted panel look an awful lot bulkier then either SAE...

Yes, the MC4 has higher current capacity, but more importantly it has housings around the connection which make it weather-resistant... and a lot bulkier. There are also the latches - the SAE has no latching mechanism. The MC4 is designed to be crimped and clamped onto cable, while the SAE type is generally available only factory-moulded onto cable - the MC4 compression nut system takes space. Also, the MC4 connectors are single-conductor; two of them are much bulkier than a single SAE 2-pin.

If the installation, latching, and weatherproofing features are not of value to you, the MC4 is unnecessarily bulky compared to the SAE type.

[ruscal]

I used the standard MC4's on my Renogy panels used in a portable application. I attached the plastic removal tool to a short tether affixed to the wire so it is always ready to use. the MC4 is weatherproof whereas the Powerpoles are open. I did use the powerpole 75 amp connectors at the trailer end because the connection can be made internal to a weather sealed enclosure that houses the charge controller, circuit breakers and Trimetric shunt. The box is mounted on the tongue A frame. It's not attractive though!
The Powerpole connectors probably would perform well outdoors, likely better than our typical 7 pin trailer plugs. They can be inserted under load too, as the tips of the pins inside touch in a different area than the seated contact patch which maintains contact until inserted fully. (the arcing happens at the tip) The scrubbing action of inserting and removal would likely keep them clean enough to make good contact. (just a guess) You could use a little dielectric grease if used at the panel end connection to ease corrosion.
Russ

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by padlin

The MC4's that came on the trailer mounted panel look an awful lot bulkier then either SAE or Power Poles, at least the ones that I have. Have you connected/disconnected the MC4's, is it pretty easy? I haven't done so but they look like something I'd break after a few iterations.

Whatever I do I'm running out of time to get parts.

No problem connecting and disconnecting the MC4/s. Can't see them wearing any time soon. I would not use them to connect, disconnect some regular like a portable panel though.

I could not find the Anderson's anywhere in town, and even ordering was not quick. My local solar store has the MC4's by the carton.

[Dave Walter]

I have no experience with the MC4 connectors, so wont' comment regarding them. However, Anderson connectors are pretty much the unofficial "standard" in ebike technology. My ebike has Anderson's at the connection between the battery and motor and another Anderson connector between the battery and charger. The battery-motor connector does not get detached very often; however, the battery-charger connector is used every day when I recharge the batteries after I ride the bike. The current capacity is high and after 1 year of usage, I have not seen any wear on the connectors. The connections are not highly waterproof, so is best to keep them in an area where they are somewhat protected from the rain.

[ruscal]

I have not seen the Powerpoles sold locally. I have ordered from Powerwerx online with good fast service. They stock lots of variety in wiring supplies.
Having to use a tool for the MC4 is a bit of a nuisance, but not too bad even in portable usage. We do not move from site to site, so only set up once every 2 days usually. I wonder if you could cut off the lock tangs from the connector to make it every day friendly?
Russ

[stephen99]

Originally Posted by ruscal

I have not seen the Powerpoles sold locally. I have ordered from Powerwerx online with good fast service. They stock lots of variety in wiring supplies.
Having to use a tool for the MC4 is a bit of a nuisance, but not too bad even in portable usage. We do not move from site to site, so only set up once every 2 days usually. I wonder if you could cut off the lock tangs from the connector to make it every day friendly?
Russ

All my connectors are buried in a box in the basement so I can't take any photos to show but yes, clipping off the tangs should work fine. the connection between the 2 halves is secure enough without needing any locking mechanism to keep them together. I recall there being an o-ring on one side that ensured a positive engagement.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Yes; it's special only because it is mounted in a plate, while almost all connectors of this type are just moulded onto the end of two-conductor cable.


Powerpoles aren't sealed (which can be okay, depending on where the connector is). I've never used MC4 connectors, but they must be better than those "SAE" or "bullet" connectors... just about everything is.

I wouldn't use the SAE connectors for 100's of watts of solar, but I do use one of the panel mounted versions to connect my portable 160 watt panel to the input of my controller. I've inserted (and, of course, disconnected) the portable panel well over 100 times without any problems.

[MyronL]

When I was building my 100W portable solar unit I bought them MC4 connectors because they are evidently the industry standard but not cheap. When it came time to add the connectors to my wiring I got totally disoriented with which was what, and how. I ended up saying screw it, and bought these cheap and simple connectors at Auto Zone. Easy-peanuts-peasy.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MyronL

When I was building my 100W portable solar unit I bought them MC4 connectors because they are evidently the industry standard but not cheap.

Really? They're incredibly cheap from Amazon... but they may be off-brands.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by MyronL

When it came time to add the connectors to my wiring I got totally disoriented with which was what, and how.

I had a bit of the same problem, but finally got it straight on all connectors. The male (positive) connector goes on the load side of the positive cable, and the source side of the negative cable. Just the opposite for the female (negative ) connector, it goes on the load side of the negative cable, and the source side of the positive cable.



I don't use the MC4 crimpers, as it is too pricey for just a few crimps. What I do instead in use a set of Klein crimpers (for uninsulated connectors, then I squished this with a set of Klein lineman pliers. I reefed on the connection as hard as I could, and it would not fail.

[MyronL]

Hey thanks, Jim, that makes it look easy. I still have them MC4 connectors in my junk drawer so maybe now I'll give using them a second chance.

....Nah, I'm fine.

[stephen99]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I had a bit of the same problem, but finally got it straight on all connectors. The male (positive) connector goes on the load side of the positive cable, and the source side of the negative cable. Just the opposite for the female (negative ) connector, it goes on the load side of the negative cable, and the source side of the positive cable.



I don't use the MC4 crimpers, as it is too pricey for just a few crimps. What I do instead in use a set of Klein crimpers (for uninsulated connectors, then I squished this with a set of Klein lineman pliers. I reefed on the connection as hard as I could, and it would not fail.

Thanks for the diagram, Jim. So if I add a second portable panel at some point all I would need would be a couple multi branch connectors.

[thoer]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

I wouldn't use the SAE connectors for 100's of watts of solar, but I do use one of the panel mounted versions to connect my portable 160 watt panel to the input of my controller. I've inserted (and, of course, disconnected) the portable panel well over 100 times without any problems.

I agree Jon. I have used them with my BatteryMinder charger frequently and I have also had zero problems.

[advenas]

Brian-P responded in an earlier post here that plugging into the 7-pin trailer plug for my portable 100W solar panel was essentially plugging in directly to the batteries.

Being one who doesn't clearly understand all the Escape systems, I asked Escape and here you go. Sounds like I can use the 7-pin plug in for the portable solar panel only if I have a controller on it as the 7-pin plug-in doesn't go through the Escape in-house controller. Plus, the 160W solar panels will also still be charging the batteries. In the end all I'm trying to do is have an additional solar panel for those low sun winter days when boondocking. The portable solar panel won't be in use all the time. At least this keeps me from having one more hole in my trailer.

Question:
Can a portable solar panel w/o a controller be plugged in to the trailer 7 pin plug-in or does that interfere with the 160W solar panels I'm having installed? Seems to me there would be a cut off so the tow vehicle and the solar panels aren't competing to charge the 6V batteries.

Answer:
There is a battery isolator switch located in the trailer, however, this switch doesn’t apply to the 7-pin plug (for safety reasons). You could plug a portable panel into the 7-pin which would trickle charge your batteries in conjunction with the built in Solar Panels. Please note, you will need to be mindful, without a built in controller on your portable panel you run the risk of over-charging your batteries.

[richardr]

I am working on my build sheet. I am getting the installed solar panel and controller. I would like to have the capability to add a portable solar panel in the future. I like the idea in posting #8 of having additional wires connected to the controller and an additional electrical cord access in the back. How well does the electrical cord access seal when there is not a cord running through it? What is the maxim wattage of the ETI solar controller?

[padlin]

Don't know about the port but last I knew (they keep changing brands) the controller was 30 amps. the 160 watt panel on the roof is 9 amps, without doing the math you could add something like another 350 watts and be fine.