Great Bear Rainforest Loop

[CamanoCouple]

Greetings! We're planning a trip this summer to Northern Vancouver Island then BC Ferry to Bella Coola and through the Chilcoten back down to Vancouver. The big attraction is the Great Bear Rainforest (largest temperate rainforest preserve in the world - the size of Ireland!). Has anyone done this loop - or portions of it? Any campsite or tour recommendations? Do's and don't? I've searched the forum but haven't found anything. Thanks all!

[Ron in BC]

That's a great circuit and it's sort of the path less traveled.

I think that a lot of folks are put off by Heckman Pass. Don't be. Yes, it's gravel and has some sheer drop offs but it's wide and safe for meeting oncoming traffic. Have a camera ready to shoot and be prepared to stop for things like a grizzly mom and cubs.

Many, many places to stop. The park near Bella Coola is close enough to setup and then go into town.

In addition to researching BC Parks also look up BC Recreation Sites. Often free, often on a lake, we use them a lot.

Ron

[CamanoCouple]

Wow Ron what wonderful photos and fantastic information thank you! I grew up in Quesnel and spent many happy summers out by Batnuni Lake so not afraid of gravel or being on the road less traveled. Wasn't aware of Heckman so your info is much appreciated. Hoping we see bears too!

[CamanoCouple]

Ron - just to be clear, the brake check sign is for those going down to Bella Coola from the east correct? We'll be climbing the hill so will have to ensure a full gas tank and pit stops to give our engine a "brake" ��

[Ron in BC]

The story of how the connecting road to Bella Coola came into being is an interesting one. Basically, if the government won't do it, do it yourself. When it was first constructed it was a bit of a nightmare but extensive work has been done on it since.

I would be remiss if I didn't mention that East of the pass there are sections of road with frost heaves. Very similar to sections of the Alaska Hwy. Not a deal breaker, just requires a little slower speed and watching for potholes.

I've talked to workers who frequently use the road. Grizzly sightings are routine.

Yes, those signs are for folks heading West. You're right, heading East you're going to be climbing but towards the higher elevation Chilcotin plateau so your downhill will be less.

Ron

[dunnet]

We've done the trip many times, our daughter and grand daughter live in Bella Coola. The ferry ride is spectacular, the only disadvantage is you have to back on, they do allow you to sleep in the parking lot as the ferry leaves early in the morning. There are good camp grounds along the way, even a couple of government free sites. PM me and I can give you specifics. David

[Mike Lewis]

Soooo... there is a ferry from Bella Coola to Vancouver Island?

[davescape]

There's at least one place to pull out on the hill. We lost our sewer hose on the hill because the storage pipe opened up. I'd recommend wrapping some tape around each end and performing an additional check on the trailer interior for any loose items.

[davescape]

There are bears in the valley and at the top of the hill the cattle and horses run wild.

[dunnet]

There are two ferries, the one they run in the summer is direct between Port Hardy and Bella Coola. I think they still run the other that goes from Bella Coola to Ocean Falls, Shearwater and the then Bella Bella where you transfer to the ferry from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy.

[dunnet]

Spectacular canyon near Anahim Lake:

Recreation Sites and Trails BC

[Mike G]

Oy, these photos are making me want to camp! And run wild!
Cabin fever.

[Donny A]

Has anyone driven the Chilcotin Highway in late April/early May?

[davescape]

Originally Posted by Donny A

Has anyone driven the Chilcotin Highway in late April/early May?

May 11, 2015. The horse is at the top of the hill and the road in the dark photo is at the bottom where the pavement starts again. If you are going downhill you are probaby going to fast. Keep it slow. The gravel road base that has a lot of clay in it and any moisture makes it really slick.

[JeffinBC]

A few things…when you reach Bella Coola, stop in at the First Nations Band office or the tourism office and enquire about the Thorsen Creek Petroglyphs Tour. It’s run by a couple of local First Nations brothers who do an amazing job. The petroglyphs are some of the most amazing ones to be found anywhere in BC. Some people go to the petroglyphs on their own but I would caution against it as they are located on First Nations sacred territory and sometime they are conducting ceremonies there that aren’t public. There aren’t a lot of jobs in the community so good to be able to support the local tourism industry. The Chinese food restaurant in town is also quite good…which was a pleasant surprise.

There really isn’t a lot of road access into Great Bear, mostly old logging roads that would not be suitable for a trailer. I think you may be able to take a boat tour out of Bella Coola? Make sure you check that part out ahead of time if that’s your real interest. Even if you can’t get there, the Bella Coola Valley is amazingly beautiful.

Also, if you have flexibility, I highly recommend visiting the North end of Chilko Lake, which is spectacular and only about 40km off the highway on a very good dirt road. You can also head into the middle of the lake but that road is about 100km. Extremely good chance of seeing grizzly bears along the way as well as at the end of the lake where it empties out into the river.

As has been stated, once up on the Chilcotin Plateau there are hundreds of lakes within a few kilometres of the highway, many with BC Forestry Sites. Just follow the signs. Usually not bad Rainbow Trout fishing as well if you have a boat/kayak/etc.

Oh yeah…it it’s a decent day, make sure you do the hike into the Rainbow Mountains. You just need to get to the plateau to see the vista and that only takes a couple of hours. Excellent day hike and great photo spot.

It’s a great trip and should present no issues for your rig and trailer.

[Lawrence A]

Yes, there is a ferry. Not sure where this one comes from/goes to but here's proof there was one in Bella Coola on June 4th, 2022. Went up that way after the Escape Rally in Osoyoos.

And yes, there will be grizzlies along the way.

Bull Canyon provincial park campground (last photo), just west of Alexis Creek was nice. Some sites are right on the Chilcotin River. Early June was clearly pre-season and I had my pick of spots.

Road conditions will be totally dependent on weather. Still quite a bit of snow on the roadside at Heckman Pass in early June. At Anahim Lake coming from the east the road goes from asphalt to gravel. Was hoping to take my trailer down the hill from Heckman to Bella Coola, but turned around a few miles past Anahim due to heavy road mud and left the trailer at Vagabond RV park at Nimpo Lake (4th photo. Nice people running it, by the way) before continuing my journey down and back in one day.

Beautiful country, for sure!

[Sarah Henderson]

We did this trip in the summer of 2019 in our 20' motorhome. It was stunning! We got a flat between Campbell River and Port Hardy that caused a one-day delay, but the ferry could accommodate us. We lost a hubcap on The Hill but, as others have said, it wasn't a bad drive at all.

We stayed a Tweedsmuir for a couple of nights in mid-August and the park closes early because of the bears. There were some big, hungry grizzlies wandering around the campground and I was glad to be in a hard-sided RV rather than a tent. We also stayed at a cute RV park in Hagensborg and a couple of very nice recreation sites, all courtesy of the overlander app.

Not a lot of cell service along Highway 20 when we went, but such a memorable drive across the plateau. Best to get yourselves organized WRT sites in advance, though.

[Mike G]

One time I was sleeping in a tent in Yosemite when I was awoken around 5am by the sound of a bear trying to get into the food locker. Bang! Bang! Bang! Scared the crap out of me.

I now prefer to see bears only in zoos and photos.

[Connie and John]

Back in the late 1980’s I worked on a caribou transplant to Idaho. This was in January and February. We had to cut limbs and branches in Tweedsmuir Park, (We had permits), to feed the caribou lichens. We stayed in Anahim Lake for about two weeks Anyway, we always talked of going to Bella Coola afterwards. We tried several years ago, campspots all arraigned, couldn’t get there. Fires so abundant that we couldn’t get out of the states to get there. Still want to go. The pictures were great to see, and to add to them, we saw ptarmigan up in the Park. May try again this summer. Thanks for the great idea.

[JeffinBC]

Thorsen Creek Petroglyphs with guide.



Rainbow Mountains viewpoint.



Chilko Lake.

All taken in the Summer of 2021 once the COVID lockdown was lifted. Just a few of the amazing opportunities to visit along the highway. Enjoy your trip.