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Old 11-16-2014, 04:43 PM   #81
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If you're going tank less, I presume you are camping with hookups. My understanding is that it's not instant hot water, so water goes down the drain while waiting for it to become hot.
An anode is one of the least expensive parts of a trailer.
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:47 PM   #82
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If you're going tank less, I presume you are camping with hookups. My understanding is that it's not instant hot water, so water goes down the drain while waiting for it to become hot.
An anode is one of the least expensive parts of a trailer.
It's instant in the sense that the water in the coil is heated instantly, but it does have to reach the tap - and the burner won't kick on until flow is sensed. When dry camping It won't use any more water than the tank system as long as your water use habits are the same.

The other benefit is that it saves propane, because there's no burner unless there's water flow, unlike the tank system. Plus, you don't have to remember to turn the water heater on, or turn it off when you're done. Everything is automatic.

And dang - I really wanted to be a 'pioneer'.
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:50 PM   #83
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I think after a couple years using the standard water heater ( will take at least that long to need an anode replaced ), you'll have much less impetus to change it out.
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:59 PM   #84
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I think after a couple years using the standard water heater ( will take at least that long to need an anode replaced ), you'll have much less impetus to change it out.
You may be right Glenn, but something about having the ability to shower like at home is really appealing -- especially to the wife. I can be comfortable backpacking and sleeping in a tent, but not her. Of course, we can always use the campground showers when they're available.
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Old 11-16-2014, 05:11 PM   #85
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We replaced an oil fired hot water heater tank with a tankless propane hot water heater at our house. I am surprised how much more water goes down the drain before the hot water is actually hot at the tap compared to the regular tank hot water heater. I wish I had some scientific measurements. I wouldn't consider switching to a tankless in the trailer and knowing what I know now, I'm not sure we would have made the switch at home.
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Old 11-16-2014, 05:22 PM   #86
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Hi Padin you don't have to each time go through all that . It just keeps things working to do some extra cleaning once in a while.
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Old 11-16-2014, 05:57 PM   #87
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You may be right Glenn, but something about having the ability to shower like at home is really appealing --
I don't understand how the shower experience would be any different, unless you're talking about having unlimited hot water when on hookups.
But, when not hooked up, wouldn't you have six gallons less water overall?
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:11 PM   #88
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You may be right Glenn, but something about having the ability to shower like at home is really appealing --.
I'm not sure there's much difference in that aspect. There are more variables in play. The most obvious; it's a trailer with a limited water capacity, with space considerations and distance of the lines from the tank also coming into play.

I used to import the Paloma water heaters and I've had good experiences with them. But, although I have a brand new one still in its' box, the tank type in the 19 does just as good a job. Personally I wouldn't go to the work of swaping out one for the other. To each his own.

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Old 11-16-2014, 06:36 PM   #89
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I don't understand how the shower experience would be any different, unless you're talking about having unlimited hot water when on hookups.
But, when not hooked up, wouldn't you have six gallons less water overall?
Yes, but how do you use it? The only way to get that 6 gallons is to drain the water heater by removing the anode.
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:39 PM   #90
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Yes, but how do you use it? The only way to get that 6 gallons is to drain the water heater by removing the anode.
Exactly. And yes Glenn, I was talking about when hooked up.
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Old 11-17-2014, 06:10 AM   #91
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I had a tankless water heater in my SOB and did not like it. First off, you control the temperature via water flow, thus the slower the water, the hotter it becomes, thus low pressure showers. The use by children needs to be supervised. Takes awhile to adjust to obtain the right temperature, thus more water. Second, they are noisy, and they come on every time the pump comes on, that is every time you turn on the hot water, and they operate long after you turn off the water. IMHO they use more propane and water and are louder than the conventional water heater. If you ask other owners of rv's with them that is the general consensus. If you ask suppliers you get totally opposite information. I wonder why?
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Old 11-17-2014, 09:34 AM   #92
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I had a tankless water heater in my SOB and did not like it. First off, you control the temperature via water flow, thus the slower the water, the hotter it becomes, thus low pressure showers.
That's the result of a fixed-rate burner in the heater. Is the Atwood this crude system, or does it have a properly controlled burner? From my reading of the brochure and manual, it appears to have thermostatically controlled output temperature - it uses a "modulating valve" to control the heat output.
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Old 11-17-2014, 09:40 AM   #93
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That's the result of a fixed-rate burner in the heater. Is the Atwood this crude system, or does it have a properly controlled burner? From my reading of the brochure and manual, it appears to have thermostatically controlled output temperature - it uses a "modulating valve" to control the heat output.
Yeah the earlier models had lots of issues. On the model I was considering, you control temperature by adding in cold, but the burner is also modulated. They've modified the flow sensor as well, and it shuts off almost immediately after flow stops.

All in all, I think we'll be fine with stock. Maybe by the time we are ready to replace it, the tankless systems will be even better.
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Old 11-17-2014, 07:32 PM   #94
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All in all, I think we'll be fine with stock. Maybe by the time we are ready to replace it, the tankless systems will be even better.
That's IT Robert... be adaptable
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Old 11-19-2014, 03:44 PM   #95
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I worked with Reace on this request for mine. You cannot put a toilet shut off in a 19' because the toilet is too close to the wall, what we had installed is a cold water shut off to the bathroom, the valve is located under the bed and shuts off all the cold water to the bathroom I am sure this is what Robert had installed.
FYI, Crystal informed me that the new location for the toilet shut-off valve in the 19 is under the front dinette bench, driver's side -- which places it closer to the toilet.
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:22 PM   #96
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Could this be the last version? I think so but I've said that before.
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Old 11-20-2014, 10:38 PM   #97
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Why did you raise the dinette 4"? Just wondering
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Old 11-20-2014, 10:50 PM   #98
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Why did you raise the dinette 4"? Just wondering
I checked out the window height in dinette area during my factory visit based on some feedback from other forum members. I found what some others had stated -- that the windows were a bit too high. By raising the dinette a few inches we'll be able to see out more clearly.
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:07 PM   #99
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Could this be the last version? I think so but I've said that before.
Your build sheet looks great! I see by the detail that a lot of research will be paying off.
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:02 AM   #100
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Why did you raise the dinette 4"? Just wondering
This has been discussed in other threads. Some have opted to raise the whole dinette, floor and all and others, like me, have opted to raise the seats a couple of inches and leave the floor flat.

I see that you have a 2015 ordered. I'm not sure if you've sat in one and looked out. For those of us who like to see some of the ground and not just mountain tops raising the seating level gets you out of the "down in a hole" feeling. Unless you're really tall you might want to try sitting in one and deciding if you want the factory to raise the dinette. Raising the seats can be more easily done by the owner.

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