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Old 06-22-2014, 11:32 AM   #41
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Anyway, here's the latest build sheet:

Model 17B
2 Burner Stainless Steel Stove & Range hood – install front to back
4.3 cu ft Fridge
Air Conditioner (11,000 BTU)
12V Battery (flip flopped on this one but will go with the 12v)
Dual Propane Package
Equalizer Hitch
2 - Way Hot Water Tank
Microwave (Built-In)
Opening Window in Bathroom
Storage Box
Stainless Steel Sink & Chrome Faucet
Prewire for Stereo
Thermal Windows & Extra Insulation (Windows too because of condensation and sound)
TV Antenna with power amplifier (Includes TV Ready with 120V)
Prewire Solar Panel
Water Filter
“Texas Fan” for Fridge
Digital Thermostat
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:39 AM   #42
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Take your time, you have a long way to go before you need to submit your build sheet. If you keep reading the forum it'll change, many times.
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Old 06-22-2014, 12:08 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Cypherian View Post
You might prevent early failure of your water heater and or mineral building up on the shower head and other pieces. if all water is filtered.

Cypher
Filtering all of it would also reduce the amount of undesirable material accumulating in the fresh water tank. I have used a "whole house" style of filter (just a normal unit purchased from Home Depot) in-line in the supply hose, but I don't bother where I know the water is good.

On the other hand, I wouldn't expect such a filter to remove dissolved minerals.
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Old 06-22-2014, 12:42 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Anyway, here's the latest build sheet:

Model 17B
2 Burner Stainless Steel Stove & Range hood – install front to back
4.3 cu ft Fridge
Air Conditioner (11,000 BTU)
12V Battery (flip flopped on this one but will go with the 12v)
Dual Propane Package
Equalizer Hitch
2 - Way Hot Water Tank
Microwave (Built-In)
Opening Window in Bathroom
Storage Box
Stainless Steel Sink & Chrome Faucet
Prewire for Stereo
Thermal Windows & Extra Insulation (Windows too because of condensation and sound)
TV Antenna with power amplifier (Includes TV Ready with 120V)
Prewire Solar Panel
Water Filter
“Texas Fan” for Fridge
Digital Thermostat
One thing I've found handy (but this is from pre-storage box days) is an exterior hatch on the passenger side in back under the large dinette. Welcome and have fun!
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Old 06-22-2014, 01:15 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandra L View Post
One thing I've found handy (but this is from pre-storage box days) is an exterior hatch on the passenger side in back under the large dinette. Welcome and have fun!

I had my hatch ( pre-storage box ) installed at the front, passenger side. So, to use it, you have to remove the rock protectors, so you probably leave the rock protectors off.
And, since the dinette at the back is probably left set up as a bed, it's much harder to access than under the front bench.
If I could do it again, my hatch would be at the back ( assuming the awning arms don't get in the way ).
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Old 06-22-2014, 01:37 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Take your time, you have a long way to go before you need to submit your build sheet. If you keep reading the forum it'll change, many times.
I added revision number to the file name for my build sheets - I wound up with 11 revisions in 3 weeks............
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Old 06-22-2014, 01:41 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandra L View Post
One thing I've found handy (but this is from pre-storage box days) is an exterior hatch on the passenger side in back under the large dinette. Welcome and have fun!
I'll second (or third) this recommendation. When we had our 17B, I was able to store all out "outside" gear - patio mat, lego blocks, water hoses, charcoal chimney, broom & a bunch of other small stuff in that space. It looked like I was unloading a clown car when I set up .
This might work instead of the front storage box for you, especially if you need to be concerned with tongue weight with your MKX.
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:06 PM   #48
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Ever have water seepage from having an exterior hatch?
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Old 06-22-2014, 04:04 PM   #49
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Have had some, but I think not while the trailer is parked. Not enough to concern myself about. But, if I put the rock guard back...
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:54 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Filtering all of it would also reduce the amount of undesirable material accumulating in the fresh water tank. I have used a "whole house" style of filter (just a normal unit purchased from Home Depot) in-line in the supply hose, but I don't bother where I know the water is good.

On the other hand, I wouldn't expect such a filter to remove dissolved minerals.
Thanks for the great advice. Being new to having a trailer there is so much to learn. Do you also filter when filling your fresh water tank?
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:58 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I had my hatch ( pre-storage box ) installed at the front, passenger side. So, to use it, you have to remove the rock protectors, so you probably leave the rock protectors off.
And, since the dinette at the back is probably left set up as a bed, it's much harder to access than under the front bench.
If I could do it again, my hatch would be at the back ( assuming the awning arms don't get in the way ).
I also got two hatches in the front, under the rock guards. I just unsnap the tops to get to the interiors, and let them stay attached to the bottoms, otherwise, I'd probably lose them. I keep my hitch stuff, chocks, and stabilizer pads in one and extra sewer stuff in the other. The added plus is that when they are buttoned up, one cannot tell there is a hatch behind them. The awning arm does not get in the way of the one in the back. I also have never had a leak.
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:00 PM   #52
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Do you also filter when filling your fresh water tank?
Yes, I have once or twice... same logic whether in a serviced site or filling the tank.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:29 AM   #53
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If I fill from my normal home drinking water source, no. If from other unknown source, yes
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:33 AM   #54
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rbryan4 you made a better choice in your trailer search. ETI customer service is tops in the industry.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:33 AM   #55
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If I fill from my normal home drinking water source, no. If from other unknown source, yes
I follow Jim's practice here
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:09 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulw View Post
I'll second (or third) this recommendation. When we had our 17B, I was able to store all out "outside" gear - patio mat, lego blocks, water hoses, charcoal chimney, broom & a bunch of other small stuff in that space. It looked like I was unloading a clown car when I set up .
This might work instead of the front storage box for you, especially if you need to be concerned with tongue weight with your MKX.
Good point about the tongue weight. The tongue weight capacity for my Lincoln is 350 lbs, which is about 100 lbs higher than the tongue weight of the 17B. Even with the storage box, I don't see it getting maxed out. The main reason we wanted the storage box was not only to store the setup items like chocks, etc, but to store a screen room we can set up separately, rather than have one attached to the awning/trailer. I have learned from alot of people that there's no such thing as too much storage space!
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:52 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Good point about the tongue weight. The tongue weight capacity for my Lincoln is 350 lbs, which is about 100 lbs higher than the tongue weight of the 17B. Even with the storage box, I don't see it getting maxed out. The main reason we wanted the storage box was not only to store the setup items like chocks, etc, but to store a screen room we can set up separately, rather than have one attached to the awning/trailer. I have learned from alot of people that there's no such thing as too much storage space.
I absolutely agree about never too much storage , but sometimes our tugs dictate where we put the load.
Here is a thread you should probably check out while you're planning. It lists the real world weights of various molded fiberglass trailers as loaded for a trip:
Trailer Weights in the Real World - Fiberglass RV
Its a long thread, so here is an extract with entries for the Escape 17Bs that were weighed. Mine's on there twice - lines 5 and 6 - they never seem to get lighter .
Attached Images
File Type: jpg E17B.jpg (52.8 KB, 21 views)
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Old 06-23-2014, 04:38 PM   #58
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The tongue weight capacity for my Lincoln is 350 lbs, which is about 100 lbs higher than the tongue weight of the 17B. Even with the storage box, I don't see it getting maxed out.
250 pounds is the published dry/empty/base tongue weight for an Escape 17. Stuff anywhere ahead of the axle will increase that (and stuff behind it will decrease the tongue weight), so a loaded trailer will typically have more than 250 pounds carried by the hitch even if there is no storage box on the tongue. Also, the published weight will be without propane, and that sits almost on top of the coupler, adding close to 40 pounds by itself (if the empty tanks are included in the published weight).

For example, my similar 17-foot trailer has about (from memory) 240 pounds on the tongue when empty, and 305 pounds loaded for travel... with no storage box on the tongue.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:20 PM   #59
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My 17B has dual propane, no storage box, battery on the rear bumper, with a storage box on a cargo carrier in the bike receiver. I generally run 320 - 340# tongue weight.
I move cargo ( cases of beer ) forward or aft inside the trailer to adjust. Generally, I try to keep weight over the axle.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:49 PM   #60
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Light tongue weight on any Escape? Put more BEER behind the axle!
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