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Old 06-26-2015, 10:51 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by fudge_brownie View Post
Here is the dilemma, some usb devices want to charge at different rates. Lets take Apple products for an example since they are common. The Apple products take different adapters and use different current. See the table below. I would expect that a combo plug would be using the lowest or safest current rate, unless it is intelligent or auto sensing. I use a 12 volt adapter made by Powergen that is dual port for Apple and Non Apple devices and auto sensing. It charges at the fastest rate the device allows.
I think you're expecting way too much of the adapters. They're not intelligent: they don't sense anything about what's connected to them and they don't need to. They just try to supply 5 volts, regardless of the current the connected device takes. If the connected device needs more than the adapter can supply, the voltage goes down because the adapter can't keep up and the device may complain that it can't get enough power.

Apple devices come with different adapters because each one comes with the smallest (and cheapest) adapter Apple can get away with. Every manufacturer does this - there's no point in a more expensive (or heavier or bulkier) adapter than the device needs.

Some adapters just have two differently rated ports because that's cheaper and more compact than two high-capacity ports; setting one up specifically for more capacity lets you be sure that the demanding device gets charged. Some adapters (including one I have) just have a total power rating - it doesn't matter how much is drawn from which port.

You can use the most powerful USB power supply you can find, then plug in the smallest and least-demanding device you have, and it's fine. Just like plugging a 5 watt nightlight into the same wall socket that can also power a 1500 watt heater.
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Old 03-04-2016, 10:34 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
I added a 12V drop on each side with cabinets, mainly for lighting futures.......
I'm working on my build sheet........ I have been in a 21' a couple of times, but how would I best explain to ETI on the build sheet the best place for a drop, in the cabinets (that make the most sense) for my drops?

I don't recall the layout of the cabinets enough to know what ones would make the most sense (be the darkest?) for my adding lights that turn on automatically when the door is opened....

Drops are $25 each from ETI... I'm thinking maybe 2 or 3 drops in key cabinets?

Once a drop is in a cabinet I guess I can figure out how to run 12v to an adjacent cabinet.

and...

does anyone have a link (bonus points for an Amazon link) to 12v LED cabinet lights that turn on when they are opened?

thanks.
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Old 03-04-2016, 10:49 PM   #23
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I'm working on my build sheet........ I have been in a 21' a couple of times, but how would I best explain to ETI on the build sheet the best place for a drop, in the cabinets (that make the most sense) for my drops?

I don't recall the layout of the cabinets enough to know what ones would make the most sense (be the darkest?) for my adding lights that turn on automatically when the door is opened....

Drops are $25 each from ETI... I'm thinking maybe 2 or 3 drops in key cabinets?

Once a drop is in a cabinet I guess I can figure out how to run 12v to an adjacent cabinet.

and...

does anyone have a link (bonus points for an Amazon link) to 12v LED cabinet lights that turn on when they are opened?

thanks.
On my 21 I had one drop on the curb side over the sink, a 2nd in the driver side cabinet aft of the fridge, one drivers side forward of the fridge, one in the front overhear cabinet, and one under the bed. Once in the vicinity you can extend it wherever you want.
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Old 03-04-2016, 11:28 PM   #24
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On my 21 I had one drop on the curb side over the sink, a 2nd in the driver side cabinet aft of the fridge, one drivers side forward of the fridge, one in the front overhear cabinet, and one under the bed. Once in the vicinity you can extend it wherever you want.
Thanks much Charlie

Very helpful!!!!

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Old 03-05-2016, 05:47 AM   #25
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You can often just "find" circuits to connect to. In my 19 I just adapter to what I could find. There was often a 12V run to a light somewhere that I could connect too, and I put lights in every upper cabinet. There is a light under most cabinets from the factory that has a feed you can tap into.

That said, for ease of installation, I will definitely be doing some drops into the 19 cabinets. Still deciding where myself.

I don't think you will find a light that switches on with the door opening, other than motion activated, which would not be the best solution. You can just get a magnetic contact to wire into the light that operates with the door opening. I had thought about doing that, but quickly discarded the idea. For starters, it is just not necessary if you put a small toggle switch on the side of the door frame. Plus, we sometimes leave the cabinet doors open to allow air circulation, and the lights would be on full time.

Here is a shot of my installation showing the switch. I know, I know, some of you have seen it a few times now.

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Old 03-05-2016, 06:23 AM   #26
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I looked all over and couldn't find a switch that would work as you ask. Ended up going similar to what Jim B did. We have a 5.0TA so it's not the same, but we only needed lights in 1 cabinet and the closet. We have captain lights in the 4 corners of the trailer, I found those the easiest sources for power to tap into. The ETI under mount lights wiring is not accessible.

Something like this Robot Check sure helps securing wires in those shallow upper cabinets.
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:28 AM   #27
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I added LEDs to all my overhead cabinets, but prefer a manual switch rather than an automatic one. There are times during extremely hot or cold weather when I want to leave a cabinet door open overnight to cool/heat the interior.
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Old 03-05-2016, 02:44 PM   #28
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A magnetic switch would work, but there physically no need for the magnetic approach, or the part on the door to hold a magnet. You just need a switch with a plunger or lever that the door pushes, as used in a typical refrigerator. Unfortunately, finding a source which is reasonably priced and not on another continent seems to be a challenge.
UK Automation: Door Light Switch


If you have space in the frame to mount it, this would work:
Tamper Plunger Switch for Refrigerator Cabinet Door

If you can group all or at least a set of the cabinet lights together on one circuit, you can put a manual switch on the power for the whole set. That way if you want to leave a door open without running the light you can just turn the switch off, and a light will never be on without the corresponding door open (regardless of the main switch position).
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Old 03-05-2016, 03:23 PM   #29
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There are so many options now on LED battery puck lights with remotes and motion sensors or just tap on. (more intricate ones show up every day) I've used these quite a bit in the closets at our cabin, etc. and they go forever on the batteries and work great. Would eliminate any need for wiring for cabinets - closets in the trailer. Use the 3M command strips and they should be able to mount and be removed with no holes or damage as well.
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Old 03-05-2016, 03:30 PM   #30
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There are so many options now on LED battery puck lights with remotes and motion sensors or just tap on. (more intricate ones show up every day) I've used these quite a bit in the closets at our cabin, etc. and they go forever on the batteries and work great. Would eliminate any need for wiring for cabinets - closets in the trailer. Use the 3M command strips and they should be able to mount and be removed with no holes or damage as well.
Robot Check
Love these guys - mounts to an included strip by magnet - just pull off the to replace batteries when needed, put it back - no screws involved at all. Superb for the bath and small enough to be behind the shower curtain when drawn. Robot Check
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:38 PM   #31
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Call me lazy, but I hate trying to fish wire to anywhere. So we ordered drops in all four corners of the overhead cabinets. Time will tell if I ever use them.
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:55 PM   #32
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Call me lazy, but I hate trying to fish wire to anywhere. So we ordered drops in all four corners of the overhead cabinets. Time will tell if I ever use them.
Same here....

Once I found a spiffy battery powered motion detector light I could just stick in a cabinet that turns on only when I put my hand it, I didn't install the LED strips I had planned, either. No switch needed!
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Old 03-05-2016, 07:37 PM   #33
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I'm glad to hear those those are working for you Charlie. That's the one I was immediately drawn to for the cabinets. I'm going to give them a try.
No muss no fuss.....
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Old 03-05-2016, 08:32 PM   #34
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I'm glad to hear those those are working for you Charlie. That's the one I was immediately drawn to for the cabinets. I'm going to give them a try.
No muss no fuss.....
I also found they work great as an entry step light with the 3 meter range. Doesn't light up the whole campground. Just mounted it on a holder I set on the steps when I arrive, remove when storing the step.
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File Type: jpg step5.jpg (160.2 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg step6.jpg (90.9 KB, 8 views)
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Old 03-06-2016, 06:55 AM   #35
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Love these guys - mounts to an included strip by magnet - just pull off the to replace batteries when needed, put it back - no screws involved at all. Superb for the bath and small enough to be behind the shower curtain when drawn. Robot Check
Charlie, I see these take 4 AAA batteries. How long has a set of batteries lasted for you? TIA
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:05 AM   #36
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Charlie, I see these take 4 AAA batteries. How long has a set of batteries lasted for you? TIA
This was my thought and concern with these too. 4 batteries in 8 or so cabinets could be a bit of a bother to deal with. Much easier to retrofit if there are no 12V wires handy though, but wiring in a light is pretty easy for most folks.

If you want motion sensing with hard wired lights, it is real easy to just use a tiny 12V motion sensing switch, available online real cheap.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=motio...+sensor+switch
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Old 03-06-2016, 10:16 AM   #37
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Because they automatically turn off after 10 secs of no movement, batteries last quite a while. They also don't turn on with sufficient ambient daylight.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:17 PM   #38
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I haven't had to change batteries on the LED puck lights at the cabin in 3.5+ years. They aren't high use areas so I would imagine with even less use on a trailer they would go a long time.
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