Drop it like it's hot! ***12v Drops*** - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Me | General Topics > Shopping Escape
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-26-2015, 10:51 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
Quote:
Originally Posted by fudge_brownie View Post
Here is the dilemma, some usb devices want to charge at different rates. Lets take Apple products for an example since they are common. The Apple products take different adapters and use different current. See the table below. I would expect that a combo plug would be using the lowest or safest current rate, unless it is intelligent or auto sensing. I use a 12 volt adapter made by Powergen that is dual port for Apple and Non Apple devices and auto sensing. It charges at the fastest rate the device allows.
I think you're expecting way too much of the adapters. They're not intelligent: they don't sense anything about what's connected to them and they don't need to. They just try to supply 5 volts, regardless of the current the connected device takes. If the connected device needs more than the adapter can supply, the voltage goes down because the adapter can't keep up and the device may complain that it can't get enough power.

Apple devices come with different adapters because each one comes with the smallest (and cheapest) adapter Apple can get away with. Every manufacturer does this - there's no point in a more expensive (or heavier or bulkier) adapter than the device needs.

Some adapters just have two differently rated ports because that's cheaper and more compact than two high-capacity ports; setting one up specifically for more capacity lets you be sure that the demanding device gets charged. Some adapters (including one I have) just have a total power rating - it doesn't matter how much is drawn from which port.

You can use the most powerful USB power supply you can find, then plug in the smallest and least-demanding device you have, and it's fine. Just like plugging a 5 watt nightlight into the same wall socket that can also power a 1500 watt heater.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2016, 10:34 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: no fixed address, California
Trailer: 2017-21' Escape (sold) Casita 17' (sold)
Posts: 1,348
Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
I added a 12V drop on each side with cabinets, mainly for lighting futures.......
I'm working on my build sheet........ I have been in a 21' a couple of times, but how would I best explain to ETI on the build sheet the best place for a drop, in the cabinets (that make the most sense) for my drops?

I don't recall the layout of the cabinets enough to know what ones would make the most sense (be the darkest?) for my adding lights that turn on automatically when the door is opened....

Drops are $25 each from ETI... I'm thinking maybe 2 or 3 drops in key cabinets?

Once a drop is in a cabinet I guess I can figure out how to run 12v to an adjacent cabinet.

and...

does anyone have a link (bonus points for an Amazon link) to 12v LED cabinet lights that turn on when they are opened?

thanks.
Losangeles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2016, 10:49 PM   #23
Commercial Member
 
tractors1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 - "Felicity"
Posts: 2,945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Losangeles View Post
I'm working on my build sheet........ I have been in a 21' a couple of times, but how would I best explain to ETI on the build sheet the best place for a drop, in the cabinets (that make the most sense) for my drops?

I don't recall the layout of the cabinets enough to know what ones would make the most sense (be the darkest?) for my adding lights that turn on automatically when the door is opened....

Drops are $25 each from ETI... I'm thinking maybe 2 or 3 drops in key cabinets?

Once a drop is in a cabinet I guess I can figure out how to run 12v to an adjacent cabinet.

and...

does anyone have a link (bonus points for an Amazon link) to 12v LED cabinet lights that turn on when they are opened?

thanks.
On my 21 I had one drop on the curb side over the sink, a 2nd in the driver side cabinet aft of the fridge, one drivers side forward of the fridge, one in the front overhear cabinet, and one under the bed. Once in the vicinity you can extend it wherever you want.
__________________
Charlie Y

Need custom storage to your design? Don't drill holes!
www.RVWidgetWorks.com
tractors1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2016, 11:28 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: no fixed address, California
Trailer: 2017-21' Escape (sold) Casita 17' (sold)
Posts: 1,348
Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
On my 21 I had one drop on the curb side over the sink, a 2nd in the driver side cabinet aft of the fridge, one drivers side forward of the fridge, one in the front overhear cabinet, and one under the bed. Once in the vicinity you can extend it wherever you want.
Thanks much Charlie

Very helpful!!!!

:-)
Losangeles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 05:47 AM   #25
Senior Member
 
Jim Bennett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
You can often just "find" circuits to connect to. In my 19 I just adapter to what I could find. There was often a 12V run to a light somewhere that I could connect too, and I put lights in every upper cabinet. There is a light under most cabinets from the factory that has a feed you can tap into.

That said, for ease of installation, I will definitely be doing some drops into the 19 cabinets. Still deciding where myself.

I don't think you will find a light that switches on with the door opening, other than motion activated, which would not be the best solution. You can just get a magnetic contact to wire into the light that operates with the door opening. I had thought about doing that, but quickly discarded the idea. For starters, it is just not necessary if you put a small toggle switch on the side of the door frame. Plus, we sometimes leave the cabinet doors open to allow air circulation, and the lights would be on full time.

Here is a shot of my installation showing the switch. I know, I know, some of you have seen it a few times now.

__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
Jim Bennett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 06:23 AM   #26
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
I looked all over and couldn't find a switch that would work as you ask. Ended up going similar to what Jim B did. We have a 5.0TA so it's not the same, but we only needed lights in 1 cabinet and the closet. We have captain lights in the 4 corners of the trailer, I found those the easiest sources for power to tap into. The ETI under mount lights wiring is not accessible.

Something like this Robot Check sure helps securing wires in those shallow upper cabinets.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 10:28 AM   #27
Senior Member
 
Vermilye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,363
I added LEDs to all my overhead cabinets, but prefer a manual switch rather than an automatic one. There are times during extremely hot or cold weather when I want to leave a cabinet door open overnight to cool/heat the interior.
__________________
Jon Vermilye My Travel Blog
Travel and Photo Web Page ... My Collection of RV Blogs 2018 F150 3.5EB, 2017 21
Vermilye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 02:44 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
A magnetic switch would work, but there physically no need for the magnetic approach, or the part on the door to hold a magnet. You just need a switch with a plunger or lever that the door pushes, as used in a typical refrigerator. Unfortunately, finding a source which is reasonably priced and not on another continent seems to be a challenge.
UK Automation: Door Light Switch


If you have space in the frame to mount it, this would work:
Tamper Plunger Switch for Refrigerator Cabinet Door

If you can group all or at least a set of the cabinet lights together on one circuit, you can put a manual switch on the power for the whole set. That way if you want to leave a door open without running the light you can just turn the switch off, and a light will never be on without the corresponding door open (regardless of the main switch position).
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 03:23 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
Greg A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
There are so many options now on LED battery puck lights with remotes and motion sensors or just tap on. (more intricate ones show up every day) I've used these quite a bit in the closets at our cabin, etc. and they go forever on the batteries and work great. Would eliminate any need for wiring for cabinets - closets in the trailer. Use the 3M command strips and they should be able to mount and be removed with no holes or damage as well.
Robot Check
Greg A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 03:30 PM   #30
Commercial Member
 
tractors1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 - "Felicity"
Posts: 2,945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A View Post
There are so many options now on LED battery puck lights with remotes and motion sensors or just tap on. (more intricate ones show up every day) I've used these quite a bit in the closets at our cabin, etc. and they go forever on the batteries and work great. Would eliminate any need for wiring for cabinets - closets in the trailer. Use the 3M command strips and they should be able to mount and be removed with no holes or damage as well.
Robot Check
Love these guys - mounts to an included strip by magnet - just pull off the to replace batteries when needed, put it back - no screws involved at all. Superb for the bath and small enough to be behind the shower curtain when drawn. Robot Check
__________________
Charlie Y

Need custom storage to your design? Don't drill holes!
www.RVWidgetWorks.com
tractors1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 06:38 PM   #31
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Blue Springs, Missouri
Trailer: 17B Picked up 4/19/16
Posts: 54
Call me lazy, but I hate trying to fish wire to anywhere. So we ordered drops in all four corners of the overhead cabinets. Time will tell if I ever use them.
Otter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 06:55 PM   #32
Commercial Member
 
tractors1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 - "Felicity"
Posts: 2,945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otter View Post
Call me lazy, but I hate trying to fish wire to anywhere. So we ordered drops in all four corners of the overhead cabinets. Time will tell if I ever use them.
Same here....

Once I found a spiffy battery powered motion detector light I could just stick in a cabinet that turns on only when I put my hand it, I didn't install the LED strips I had planned, either. No switch needed!
__________________
Charlie Y

Need custom storage to your design? Don't drill holes!
www.RVWidgetWorks.com
tractors1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 07:37 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Greg A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
I'm glad to hear those those are working for you Charlie. That's the one I was immediately drawn to for the cabinets. I'm going to give them a try.
No muss no fuss.....
Greg A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 08:32 PM   #34
Commercial Member
 
tractors1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 - "Felicity"
Posts: 2,945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A View Post
I'm glad to hear those those are working for you Charlie. That's the one I was immediately drawn to for the cabinets. I'm going to give them a try.
No muss no fuss.....
I also found they work great as an entry step light with the 3 meter range. Doesn't light up the whole campground. Just mounted it on a holder I set on the steps when I arrive, remove when storing the step.
Attached Thumbnails
step5.jpg   step6.jpg  
__________________
Charlie Y

Need custom storage to your design? Don't drill holes!
www.RVWidgetWorks.com
tractors1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2016, 06:55 AM   #35
Site Team
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,023
Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
Love these guys - mounts to an included strip by magnet - just pull off the to replace batteries when needed, put it back - no screws involved at all. Superb for the bath and small enough to be behind the shower curtain when drawn. Robot Check
Charlie, I see these take 4 AAA batteries. How long has a set of batteries lasted for you? TIA
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2016, 09:05 AM   #36
Senior Member
 
Jim Bennett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Charlie, I see these take 4 AAA batteries. How long has a set of batteries lasted for you? TIA
This was my thought and concern with these too. 4 batteries in 8 or so cabinets could be a bit of a bother to deal with. Much easier to retrofit if there are no 12V wires handy though, but wiring in a light is pretty easy for most folks.

If you want motion sensing with hard wired lights, it is real easy to just use a tiny 12V motion sensing switch, available online real cheap.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=motio...+sensor+switch
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
Jim Bennett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2016, 10:16 AM   #37
Commercial Member
 
tractors1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 - "Felicity"
Posts: 2,945
Because they automatically turn off after 10 secs of no movement, batteries last quite a while. They also don't turn on with sufficient ambient daylight.
__________________
Charlie Y

Need custom storage to your design? Don't drill holes!
www.RVWidgetWorks.com
tractors1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2016, 02:17 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Greg A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
I haven't had to change batteries on the LED puck lights at the cabin in 3.5+ years. They aren't high use areas so I would imagine with even less use on a trailer they would go a long time.
Greg A is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Escape Trailer Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2023 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.