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Old 06-23-2021, 08:56 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo View Post
I recommend you checking out Fate Unbound on YouTube, for their conversion from dinette to office mod.
Unfortunately, there's too much stuff under the dinette benches for me to do this, but it's interesting
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Old 06-23-2021, 09:06 PM   #82
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Not an 'office conversion' but here's a post with a peek at a countertop/cabinet ILO passenger side dinette bench that jphil23462 did on his 5.0 - perhaps some ideas or inspiration ...

Modifications to Olive, a 5.0 (Post #2)
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Old 06-23-2021, 09:22 PM   #83
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Wow, y'all are awesome! I was hoping to get maybe one reply in maybe a week, & 3 of you replied within minutes & with such helpful info too. Will take some time to digest all this. Many, many thanks!
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Old 06-23-2021, 10:42 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by thunderworks View Post
I'm in full agreement here . . . I find the camera extremely useful when driving in traffic to monitor what's around us. I don't need it for backing up, but really glad I got it. My Ridgeline mirrors don't let me see behind the trailer (19) well.
Late to the party, but how do you adjust the camera to see behind you? The way I have mine if a car is getting too close I just barely see it in the camera. I can't see any behind it.
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Old 06-24-2021, 08:43 AM   #85
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Location: Victoria, Texas
Trailer: 21C Jan. 15, 2021
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We love our rear view camera and use it every time we leave on a trip. It’s nice to know what is behind us and can keep an eye on our bikes underway. Lol we have never used it as a backup camera.

If ETI would agree , I would see if they would agree to let you furnish all undercarriage bolts and screws used to be in stainless steel. In 6 months all small fasteners are rusting and we live in South texas. No salt on roads here.
I personally POR 15 my structural frame members or they would be all rusted by now.
Others will say it’s cosmetic. I say BS,
it’s just sorry thin coat of painting.
I find myself crawling and working under the trailer a few times a month. Get the highlift option. Makes life easier. Glad we did.

We paid for 3 solid walls. Wish I had paid for 5. Try to hang or mount items on 1/8” veneer plywood. Try to mount shelving in your closets. Can be done but is difficult trying to find something solid.
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Old 06-24-2021, 09:00 AM   #86
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Another reason for the undercarriage foam spray option available.....
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Old 06-24-2021, 09:08 AM   #87
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Lol. Then I would need a 6” high lift kit.
In all seriousness, I am not an “out of Sight out of mind type of guy”. I like to address not up to snuff items. Guess that is the builder/ engineer mind in this old frame body.
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Old 06-25-2021, 09:12 AM   #88
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This weekend in the Pacific Northwest should answer the question of the requirement for the need of an air conditioner.
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Old 10-16-2021, 06:27 PM   #89
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OK This is about to get real. We got the e-mail and need to start locking in our option choices. Some of you have made choices that are regional like insulation and no A/C. Since we are in southeast Texas that is not possible. But I am considering what electrical system to select. We intend to stay mostly at State Parks and Corps of Engineer campgrounds but if we venture into the north and west boondocking may be a possibility. I am leaning toward 1 solar panel and a Zamp port and am in a quandary as to go with a single lithium battery and possibly adding more if needed Thanks
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Old 10-16-2021, 06:32 PM   #90
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we've boondocked extensively with our E21 with dual lead acid flooded golf cart batteries and the older 160W single panel solar system. as long as its parked out in direct sun, we can go a week or more before we need to dump the holding tanks, and the electrics will go on forever.

now, we don't use any 120VAC appliances, although I'll use a small portable inverter to charge my wife's laptop, and/or our ebikes. propane for hot water and fridge, and we're good to go.
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Old 10-16-2021, 09:49 PM   #91
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I pondered which battery/ies to get for the 21C too. In the end two things persuaded me to get dual lead instead of a single lithium. One, the weight savings wasn't as good as I’d hoped because it takes some extra equipment onboard to manage the lithium battery. Two, I was told by Escape that on a full charge, assuming no power input (we will have a solar panel but let’s pretend we've charged at home and the campsite is shady/sun angle very low), the dual lead charge lasts longer then the single lithium charge for running the same equipment.

Having said that I was impressed that lithium batteries are supposed to have a much longer useful life, and are kinder to the environment.
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Old 10-17-2021, 12:02 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xring View Post
OK This is about to get real. We got the e-mail and need to start locking in our option choices. Some of you have made choices that are regional like insulation and no A/C. Since we are in southeast Texas that is not possible. But I am considering what electrical system to select. We intend to stay mostly at State Parks and Corps of Engineer campgrounds but if we venture into the north and west boondocking may be a possibility. I am leaning toward 1 solar panel and a Zamp port and am in a quandary as to go with a single lithium battery and possibly adding more if needed Thanks
A key factor is how much work you want to do versus having a "turn-key" system delivered by ETI. For example, if you want to add solar and a LiFePO4 battery yourself (better battery & wiring IMMO, inside battery location, MPPT solar charge controller) then have ETI pre-wire for one panel and do the work yourself. If you do not want to deal with making modifications than have ETI install a panel. Personal choice.

Also, consider how you plan to cook. That assessment will drive size of refrigerator and cooking equipment (over or microwave or neither). We went with a large frig. (we are on the road for weeks at a time) and no oven or microwave. We did not want to sacrifice cabinet space for a built-in microwave. We travel with a small microwave stored under bed that we use when we have shore power. There will be other opinions on the forum, but the decision should be based on how you will use your trailer.

Another basic consideration is the cost and hassle to make a future change. Adding a window would be doable, but a major hassle. Hence we ordered our E19 with windows in the kitchen (more natural light) and bath (light and ventilation). As an alternative example of a simple upgrade, I did not order a power jack; I can add one later for about the same option price that ETI charges (and get a better jack too).

We like the spray foam. This is a contentious option on the forum. It is truly a hassle to dig out the foam if repairs are needed, but we store our trailer outdoors on our property and the mice have not eaten the wiring like they have on our utility trailer.

With those comments in mind, my recommendations (YMMV):
- Pre-wire solar at a minimum
- No solar panel on front
- 6 cu ft frig on E19
- Storage locker if ordering E17, E19, E21
- AC; you are in TX!
- Windows in bathroom and kitchen
- Door on end of bench. Drawer under wardrobe.
- EMS
- 12V outlet at bed
- removable cord
- spray foam

Again, this is all based on how YOU will use the trailer.

2 cents
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Old 10-17-2021, 08:39 AM   #93
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AVA, regarding your above list, what is your thought regarding the two options for A/C, or just getting wiring for A/C and installing a Houghton or other brand?
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Old 10-17-2021, 10:46 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clearwater Chris View Post
AVA, regarding your above list, what is your thought regarding the two options for A/C, or just getting wiring for A/C and installing a Houghton or other brand?
When I ordered our E19, I was not informed enough to consider options for AC, or to consider only having the trailer pre-wired for AC. Hence, I defaulted to the "standard" AC unit.
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Old 11-13-2021, 09:36 AM   #95
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If you order A/C delete ETI tells me they prewire for later installation.

I intend to install a Houghton unit when we get our trailer in 1023 if the Houghton is not an option by then (I have a request in to ETI). Be sure the prewire includes proper gauge wire, the Houghton requires at least 12 gauge.
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Old 11-13-2021, 11:16 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
we've boondocked extensively with our E21 with dual lead acid flooded golf cart batteries and the older 160W single panel solar system. as long as its parked out in direct sun, we can go a week or more before we need to dump the holding tanks, and the electrics will go on forever.

now, we don't use any 120VAC appliances, although I'll use a small portable inverter to charge my wife's laptop, and/or our ebikes. propane for hot water and fridge, and we're good to go.
What model propane inverter do you have ?
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Old 11-15-2021, 08:37 AM   #97
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Options or choices are varied. But I try to remember that with wheels, our Escape will see 4 seasons. So something not used at home may come in handy while traveling. A rare snowstorm in Texas or a sweltering day in Osoyoos all will allow one to enjoy their Escape......
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Old 11-18-2021, 02:26 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldwave View Post
What model propane inverter do you have ?
heh heh. I guess I should have split that into two sentences, the propane heat/water has nothing to do with the inverter, was just saying thats all the power we need.
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Old 11-19-2021, 11:14 AM   #99
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Would have had the Driver side access put in our 21NE for easy access to water heater and water pump for possible future issues. It's a bear lifting that mattress!
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Old 02-25-2022, 09:57 AM   #100
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Location: Eugene, Oregon
Trailer: 2022 Escape 21C
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I appreciate the dinette comments. What is "cushion modification" and the "filler cushions?"
  • U-shaped dinette ($400)
  • 22" deep instead of 19" deep ($235)
  • 4" thick back cushion ($65)
  • Split both rear cushions ($100)
  • Two filler cushions ($210)
  • Cushion modification to fit u-shaped dinette ($200)
  • Full wrap on cushions ($100)
Thank you.
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