Can't help but notice your build sheet states, "Toilet Shut Off Valve (for winterization)". I've never, in many campers, used the toilet shut off valve for winterization. I have used it for when the toilet components failed, spraying water all over, so we could shut off water to the toilet and still use water in the trailer.
I'm trying to figure out how to use the that valve for winterization. I wonder if ETI knows what that valve is for.
Enjoy,
Perry
My 2019 build sheet has both toilet shut off and winterizing T valve as options, listed separately $25 and $35 each, respectively.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
... Can't help but notice your build sheet states, "Toilet Shut Off Valve (for winterization)". ....
Yeah, that item description along with all of the others in that column are just verbatim copy>paste from the current ETI build sheet into my excel 'working version'.
I fully agree with the actual functional utility of that valve as you describe (isolate a leaking toilet from the rest of the pressurized water system if ever needed)
Though a rare occurrence in my region, when 'winterization' is needed I've always just purged the freshwater lines with air, including the toilet supply by leaving that 'shutoff-valve' open and actuating the toilet flush to clear water in that section of the lines.
Gotta laugh at myself regarding this thread. Thought it wouldn't interest me, as I bought my 19 when it was 10 years old, and build sheets weren't an issue. However, there is a lot of food for thought here as well as ideas for future mods.
In the spirit of the good intentions of all who are writing on this thread, I will add the following regarding steel vs aluminum wheels. Just last week, I replaced one of the factory original aluminum wheels on my TV due to corrosion getting to the area where the tire bead seats on the rim. My tire dealer says he sees this regularly when working on vehicles exposed to salt. There is no reliable repair--you either have to keep pumping air into the tire, or replace the rim, which is considerably more expensive than steel. There is an anti-corrosion/bead sealant available, but it only works for a while. The problem will get worse over time. Similar problem with rusting steel wheels, just less expensive to replace.
I have no dog in this fight, just hoping to add a bit of information to the discussion so you can make the decision that works best for you.
Was this the sink you pulled out of your Casita?
edit: [I]yes I can see how that sink would have been in the way.
Not exactly 'identical' to the Escape sink, which is less than half that size.
Personally I asked ETI if they offered a bigger bathroom sink. I thought the Casita sink was too small to be of any value and now I'm seeing the photo of the Escape sink. I don't like to splash my feet when I splash water on my face.
Just to keep the chronology complete - today 04-22-2021 I E-Signed the "Build Sheet Confirmation / Purchase Agreement" document.
Comfortably ahead of the 05/18/2021 'deadline'; no, that does not bring a change to the original ETI Completion Date commitment, but may help ensure they'll have the pieces to meet that commitment.
Congratulations Centex, on pulling the trigger on the configuration sheet. It's a good feeling. I made many of the same choices as you, including nixing the sink. The great thing about Escape is that you get to make the choices you want, instead of some company accountant or sales team. The (very tiny) downside is some of the feedback if you choose to make your choices public on the forum Anyway, I've enjoyed you sharing your journey - let's hope it your trailer is in your driveway sooner rather than later.
Thank you Sherminator and yes it's a good feeling!
Nah, no downside whatsoever with any of the comments, all are taken as offered with best intentions and all are most welcome. By design I've not been shy about sharing ideas from 'mild-to-wild', contributors on this forum have been a tremendous resource and have certainly prompted some beneficial re-thinking about a number of items. I'm nothing but grateful for everyone here
August works great for me, just keeping the fingers crossed that there's no hicups along the way with supplies / components for my build
All the best! In our case, the main build corrections/changes happened after the “final” build sign-off. ETI were generous enough to accommodate us about one or two that were initiated by us.
August is definitely a very good time to travel to this part of the world, if you are picking up in Sumas, WA. Let us know if you travel through SLC!
All the best! ...
August is definitely a very good time to travel to this part of the world, if you are picking up in Sumas, WA. Let us know if you travel through SLC!
Thank You!
If the border is open so I can do the 'olde skool' orientation / inspection at Chilliwack I'll definitely be heading to Sumas; if not, I may well opt for delivery to the Denton, TX hub. Denton is an easy 1-day drive for me and I've lots of friends with generous driveways in that area for an overnight before heading home. Still some time to keep my fingers crossed in hope of the former, or opt for the latter.
Makes sense! The drive from Austin, TX is much longer than what we face. For us, it is just a 2-3 day drive...
We are planning a leisurely trip - making our way to Bellingham over 3 days - SLC->Missoula, MT->Winthrop, WA->Bellingham and staying two nights in Bellingham before picking up in Sumas to be in a relaxed frame of mind. Camping two nights after the pickup so that we can tell the front from the back before proceeding further. We'd love anything like an orientation but are resigned to learning by doing. The first several days will be stressful, but hopefully it will settle down after that.
Makes sense! The drive from Austin, TX is much longer than what we face. For us, it is just a 2-3 day drive...
We are planning a leisurely trip - making our way to Bellingham over 3 days - SLC->Missoula, MT->Winthrop, WA->Bellingham and staying two nights in Bellingham before picking up in Sumas to be in a relaxed frame of mind. Camping two nights after the pickup so that we can tell the front from the back before proceeding further. We'd love anything like an orientation but are resigned to learning by doing. The first several days will be stressful, but hopefully it will settle down after that.
There are many YouTube videos for beginners on what equipment you need for camping, and how to set up a camp site. The videos pertain to any RV. Watch more than one, and more than once so you have a successful journey. For example, you have to level your trailer for the refrigerator to work properly if your campsite is not level. You need leveling blocks (I have two sets) to level your trailer.
We have watched a lot of videos - from Escape and otherwise. We will do more of that, but they are still a long way away from having the camper in front of us. We are downloading them and keeping them available offline. The plan is to spend a day and a half looking at them when we are in the camper.
Thanks to your advice earlier, we have collected a fairly large number of items to help us move into and take care care of basic tasks, including the levelers, torque wrench, the breaker bar and what not. While I am confident that it will work out, I will be more certain after having done it a time or two
Just a general update as my completion date is now rapidly approaching ....
Re: completion / delivery - ETI has advised that with my existing GCD of 08/18/2021 I don't 'qualify' for a formal revised GCD, but it's possible my trailer may be completed a few weeks early. In light of that, the most recent prognostications from Trudeau about the border situation, and a desire to get things firmed-up for planning purposes both on my end and ETI's end, I've committed to delivery to Denton rather than Sumas pickup. I'm good with all of that .
Re: immediate mods / shower - Per my request as discussed earlier in the thread the trailer will be delivered without a functioning shower. I've got the flush-mount shower-valve and other fittings required to get the shower functional down to a short-list of locally available options. That'll be immediate project number one, it's a very quick one, then the trailer will be 'fully functional' in all respects.
Re: mods / solar and electrical - The solar/electrical schematic is 'fixed and final' to the extent it will be until the trailer is in-hand (attached if interested). I've also developed several schemes for the actual physical arrangement of components in the trailer but that won't be settled until the trailer is in-hand to allow test fitting. I started procuring the many needed components last month and that continues apace in spite of supply-chain issues (effects of covid or whatever). The battery, inverter/converter, AC/DC distribution panels, monitor, and an assortment of the smaller bits are now in-hand. The preferred solar panels are on backorder but supply is anticipated by mid-late June. The goal is to have everything in-hand when the trailer arrives; this will be a substantial mod, implemented in several phases over a period of time with the trailer being put to use along the way.
Re: mods / minisplit AC - As also previously mentioned my trailer will arrive without AC in anticipation of the rubicon327 (Dave) inspired minisplit solution. This mod won't be started until after the solar/electrical mods are complete (and a likely break for comic relief), but it's still the subject of ongoing thought. I'm keeping an eye on new developments in the market but they are few when it comes to 115Volt units. An LG model caught my eye due to it's smaller exterior compressor but the Fujitsu 9/12RL2 installed by Dave still 'rules' for me due to it's interior air-handler configuration; it provides for the most integrated / least obtrusive installation in an Escape to my eye.
There's been lots of discussion on the forum about appropriate AC tonnage (BTUH capacity) in the context of non-inverter rooftop units. The fact that the actual compressor cooling output is variable with these 'inverter minisplit' systems helps mitigate those unit-sizing concerns (see attached table). Dave with his E19 and Jake with his E21 have been happy with the 9kBTUH Fujitsu. My 5.0 will have greater interior volume, greater surface area for heat-gain/loss, and much of my use will be in very hot / humid regions of Texas. I'm inclined to go with the 12kBTUH Fujitsu for my application, but that's a decision that won't be final until farther down the road.
Still having fun and now amazed at how imminent delivery finally seems to be (then the real fun begins)!
Re: mods / minisplit AC - As also previously mentioned my trailer will arrive without AC in anticipation of the rubicon327 (Dave) inspired minisplit solution. This mod won't be started until after the solar/electrical mods are complete (and a likely break for comic relief), but it's still the subject of ongoing thought. I'm keeping an eye on new developments in the market but they are few when it comes to 115Volt units.
Thanks so much for sharing your schematics! I've been looking at a C&H because they are a US company with in-house tech-support and have good SEER ratings. I'm looking at their 25 SEER 9000BTU. They also have 120V 21.5 SEER 12000BTU.
Thanks so much for sharing your schematics! I've been looking at a C&H because they are a US company with in-house tech-support and have good SEER ratings. I'm looking at their 25 SEER 9000BTU. They also have 120V 21.5 SEER 12000BTU.
I’m not saying there is anything wrong with going this route but just be aware that the equipment from C&H is likely just branded. It is not made in the US. This is likely the case with most or all of the big box brands like Pioneer, Mr.Cool, Gree, Ramsond, Hessair, etc.
... I've been looking at a C&H because they are a US company with in-house tech-support and have good SEER ratings. I'm looking at their 25 SEER 9000BTU. They also have 120V 21.5 SEER 12000BTU.
Thanks, Rich, I'd previously found the C&H units online and like a number of the later offerings they certainly do tout lower rated energy demand / higher cooling EER than the Fujitsu Halcyon which has been around for a relatively long time. Personally I don't look too close at SEER given my use will involve minimal heating; Dave's real-world cooling observations (9kBTUH nominal rated Fujitsu) of a ramp-up from ~1A to ~11A on startup and then a taper back to ~1A as the set temperature is reached goes more to my power-demand interests (measured at the trailer EMS display, that wasn't a 'controlled test' but is likely indicative of potential, obviously YMMV).
'Nationality' is not a factor for me, all of these commodities doubtless have substantial globally-sourced content.
The 'packaging' is the dominant criteria for me (I'm gonna be living with and looking at that interior unit for a long time, even when not running). Both objective inches and subjective tastes count in this regard.
Very similar in configuration and dimension to the Pioneer that jphil23642 installed in his 5.0, methinks the C&H would required cutaway of the bottom of the OH cabinet as he did and perhaps project forward of the cabinet face a bit more than the Fujitsu per Dave's now proven installations. Note that each manufacturer's '9k' and '12k' units share the same interior unit configuration and dimensions. While installation details and trim can vary methinks the Fujitsu will lend to an installation more pleasing to my aesthetic preferences.
YMMV and that's certainly OK, it's always good to have choices!
The 'packaging' is the dominant criteria for me (I'm gonna be living with and looking at that interior unit for a long time, even when not running). Both objective inches and subjective tastes count in this regard.
Very similar in configuration and dimension to the Pioneer that jphil23642 installed in his 5.0, methinks the C&H would required cutaway of the bottom of the OH cabinet as he did and perhaps project forward of the cabinet face a bit more than the Fujitsu per Dave's now proven installations. Note that each manufacturer's '9k' and '12k' units share the same interior unit configuration and dimensions. While installation details and trim can vary methinks the Fujitsu will lend to an installation more pleasing to my aesthetic preferences.
Those are good points about interior installation issues. I had not begun to look at installation at this level of detail, and I appreciate the thoughts about evaluating this. Just for reference, here's dimensions for the C&H "Sophia" model.
I don't have enough info about cabinet dimensions to know whether this will fit or not. I'll be about six more months before I get my 5.0, and a couple months beyond that before I install AC, so I've got lots of time to plan.
Those are good points about interior installation issues. I had not begun to look at installation at this level of detail, and I appreciate the thoughts about evaluating this. Just for reference, here's dimensions for the C&H "Sophia" model.
I don't have enough info about cabinet dimensions to know whether this will fit or not. I'll be about six more months before I get my 5.0, and a couple months beyond that before I install AC, so I've got lots of time to plan.
I can add that after doing two of these installations that if you have a unit with a height any greater than the Fujitsu 9 or 12 RL2 (10-5/16") it will absolutely not fit in the cabinet. You will end up having to cut out the bottom of the cabinet. The height really is the most critical dimension if you want it to rest on the existing cabinet bottom. I think this looks the best and if done right even looks like it could be a factory installation.
Just a general update as my completion date is now rapidly approaching ....
Re: completion / delivery - ETI has advised that with my existing GCD of 08/18/2021 I don't 'qualify' for a formal revised GCD, but it's possible my trailer may be completed a few weeks early. In light of that, the most recent prognostications from Trudeau about the border situation, and a desire to get things firmed-up for planning purposes both on my end and ETI's end, I've committed to delivery to Denton rather than Sumas pickup. I'm good with all of that .
Re: immediate mods / shower - Per my request as discussed earlier in the thread the trailer will be delivered without a functioning shower. I've got the flush-mount shower-valve and other fittings required to get the shower functional down to a short-list of locally available options. That'll be immediate project number one, it's a very quick one, then the trailer will be 'fully functional' in all respects.
Re: mods / solar and electrical - The solar/electrical schematic is 'fixed and final' to the extent it will be until the trailer is in-hand (attached if interested). I've also developed several schemes for the actual physical arrangement of components in the trailer but that won't be settled until the trailer is in-hand to allow test fitting. I started procuring the many needed components last month and that continues apace in spite of supply-chain issues (effects of covid or whatever). The battery, inverter/converter, AC/DC distribution panels, monitor, and an assortment of the smaller bits are now in-hand. The preferred solar panels are on backorder but supply is anticipated by mid-late June. The goal is to have everything in-hand when the trailer arrives; this will be a substantial mod, implemented in several phases over a period of time with the trailer being put to use along the way.
Re: mods / minisplit AC - As also previously mentioned my trailer will arrive without AC in anticipation of the rubicon327 (Dave) inspired minisplit solution. This mod won't be started until after the solar/electrical mods are complete (and a likely break for comic relief), but it's still the subject of ongoing thought. I'm keeping an eye on new developments in the market but they are few when it comes to 115Volt units. An LG model caught my eye due to it's smaller exterior compressor but the Fujitsu 9/12RL2 installed by Dave still 'rules' for me due to it's interior air-handler configuration; it provides for the most integrated / least obtrusive installation in an Escape to my eye.
There's been lots of discussion on the forum about appropriate AC tonnage (BTUH capacity) in the context of non-inverter rooftop units. The fact that the actual compressor cooling output is variable with these 'inverter minisplit' systems helps mitigate those unit-sizing concerns (see attached table). Dave with his E19 and Jake with his E21 have been happy with the 9kBTUH Fujitsu. My 5.0 will have greater interior volume, greater surface area for heat-gain/loss, and much of my use will be in very hot / humid regions of Texas. I'm inclined to go with the 12kBTUH Fujitsu for my application, but that's a decision that won't be final until farther down the road.
Still having fun and now amazed at how imminent delivery finally seems to be (then the real fun begins)!
Are you using the split bus Progressive dynamics ac panel ?
Are you using the split bus Progressive dynamics ac panel ?
Yes, the PD55K003A (black); so both 'Shore Main' and separate 'Inverter Main' are in the one panel with up to 8 branch circuits under each (using tandem breakers).
I've populated it with Siemens QP (single) and QT (tandem) breakers from local Lowes. And yes, a 30A 'Shore Main' with a 30A branch breaker under that to feed the Freedom XC converter. Note the PD instructions don't prohibit that, they just limit the maximum continuous load to 80% of the main/branch breaker ratings.
PD doesn't direct-sell the companion DC panel PD60K18Q2L15 (black with 1/4" spade connections for circuit outputs), so that came from Best Converter. I didn't want the screw-terminal version because IMO it'd be more difficult to make circuit connections to the installed panel and the screw-terminals are rated at lower max amps per circuit.
Both are lovely bits, the width and slightly convex cover surfaces match so the pair look great when stacked abutting on a cabinet face.
Chronology Milestone - Configuration Complete!
Anyway, I've enjoyed you sharing your journey - let's hope it your trailer is in your driveway sooner rather than later.
Linear Mode
