Prewire for Solar with Roofmount MC4 Connect $200 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Me | General Topics > Shopping Escape
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-14-2020, 03:51 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: St Louis, Missouri
Trailer: 2021 21NE F2
Posts: 235
Prewire for Solar with Roofmount MC4 Connect $200

Can anyone who's installed solar panels help me understand what you get with the "Prewire for Solar with Roofmount MC4 Connector (not required if solar panel option selected) +$200.00" option? I plan on adding solar later on a 21 NE, and need to determine if I should order this option or just start from scratch. Is the issue that it's hard to run the wire to the roof later? Thank You!
mfschu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2020, 07:06 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Jim Bennett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
Reace applied me with one and I installed it. I know a couple others who did too. Aside from the MC4 connection fitting in the trailer, it has a pair of well insisted #10 wires ran down to the battery area. I had my fridge out for running a couple other things, so it was a fairly easy install myself. I put it behind the fridge vent, so nicely out of view. The MC4 connectors are nice.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
Jim Bennett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2020, 07:14 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
tdf-texas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
Reace applied me with one and I installed it. I know a couple others who did too. Aside from the MC4 connection fitting in the trailer, it has a pair of well insisted #10 wires ran down to the battery area. I had my fridge out for running a couple other things, so it was a fairly easy install myself. I put it behind the fridge vent, so nicely out of view. The MC4 connectors are nice.
After asking Jim what connector he used, I installed the same one.

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GP-C.../dp/B0136USGHY
Attached Thumbnails
Go Power GP-CEP Cable Entry.jpg   Escape 21 solar.jpg  
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
tdf-texas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2020, 10:33 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2019 Escape 19
Posts: 176
If it is like what they installed in my 19 last year it was well worth it. You would have to ask escape if the 21 installation is the same. It included :

1. MC4 connector on the roof

2. 10 Gauge wires down to the area under the dinette seat where the existing converter is.

3. 10 Gauge wires from the same area out to the battery.

The time savings alone in not having to run the wires behind everything was more than worth the cost to me.
Mark B1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2020, 08:29 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
I would skip the factory prewire and get the full factory installed solar package
Considering what Escape charges for the complete install and if you place any value on your time , the DIY cost savings just aren’t there
We have the dual factory solar panels and they has met all our needs , in fact one factory solar panel probably would gave been adequate.
steve dunham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2020, 09:05 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
tdf-texas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
I would skip the factory prewire and get the full factory installed solar package
Considering what Escape charges for the complete install and if you place any value on your time , the DIY cost savings just aren’t there
We have the dual factory solar panels and they has met all our needs , in fact one factory solar panel probably would gave been adequate.
With the exception of the solar controller Escape uses.

There's an easy fix for that though - tell them not to mount the solar controller, trash it, and install a good MPPT controller in it's place. The Victron 100/30 SmartSolar is a good choice.

Of course, a battery monitor install is a good idea as well.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
tdf-texas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2020, 11:04 PM   #7
AnJ
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia
Trailer: 1974 Boler, 2018 Escape 21
Posts: 125
We went with this option, we figured for resale value or if we wanted it in the future. However, we went with the dual 6 volt batteries, and find that usually the grey or black tanks being full or being out of freshwater limit us way before we run out of battery power, but this is probably due to lifestyle choice as we take quick showers and do dishes daily.
I don’t know if it is on the build sheet yet, but an alternative that Escape told us about that was cheaper was getting a port installed for a portable solar panel, in the $12-30 range. In researching, people mentioned that with portable ones, issues such as storage, theft, wind, and sites in the shade made us go with the rooftop option for later.
AnJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2020, 11:24 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,210
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
I would skip the factory prewire and get the full factory installed solar package
Considering what Escape charges for the complete install and if you place any value on your time , the DIY cost savings just aren’t there
We have the dual factory solar panels and they has met all our needs , in fact one factory solar panel probably would gave been adequate.
X2: single 160W panel with dual 6V has been solid for 6 years now.
__________________
"We gotta get as far away as we can!"
- Russell Casse, Independence Day
Rossue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2020, 11:26 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,210
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
With the exception of the solar controller Escape uses.

Of course, a battery monitor install is a good idea as well.
Why? Never had a problem with Go Power controller and see no need for an additional monitor.
__________________
"We gotta get as far away as we can!"
- Russell Casse, Independence Day
Rossue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2020, 08:50 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Jim Bennett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Why? Never had a problem with Go Power controller and see no need for an additional monitor.
If the PWM serves your needs, then all is good. The MPPT will waste no power from the panels is one difference, plus with my input voltage at 36V it is needed too, though I would not do that again.

I too really wonder the need for the battery monitor. While I do see a couple advantages, to me they seem more like a techie kinda use than a real life one. I am sure we will get some elaborations.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
Jim Bennett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2020, 12:09 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
kernwig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Silverado, California
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C "S.S. Iceburg"
Posts: 135
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
After asking Jim what connector he used, I installed the same one.

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GP-C.../dp/B0136USGHY
tdf-texas and Jim,

That connector is for a roof penetration. How did you use it with the refrigerator vent? Everybody says to router solar wires through there, but I haven't seen detail. Where does that vent shaft come down to? How do you route from there to batteries on the passenger side? Do you put the charge controller in the driver or passenger side bench?

My alternative thinking is to just take wires (white) down the back exterior wall (secured with mounts/vhb) and into the battery vent. Nice short run, but won't look so nice.
kernwig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2020, 12:36 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
tdf-texas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
Quote:
Originally Posted by kernwig View Post
tdf-texas and Jim,

That connector is for a roof penetration. How did you use it with the refrigerator vent? Everybody says to router solar wires through there, but I haven't seen detail. Where does that vent shaft come down to? How do you route from there to batteries on the passenger side? Do you put the charge controller in the driver or passenger side bench?

My alternative thinking is to just take wires (white) down the back exterior wall (secured with mounts/vhb) and into the battery vent. Nice short run, but won't look so nice.
I don't know about Jim but running the solar wiring through the fridge vent was not something I wanted. Escape started doing that as a cost saving measure - not that it was the best way to do it. To run the solar wiring through the fridge vent, it has to go through a hole made into the insect screening in the vent (see screen pic below). Using the Go Power GP-CEP cable entry plate as the solar wiring entry point makes the entry completely waterproof and keeps the insect screening intact.

The Go Power GP-CEP cable entry plate is installed above the fridge and is run through the open area above the fridge, down the cable chase along the side of the fridge into the rear dinette seating area, and then to the solar controller. None of the solar panel wiring is in the fridge vent cavity.

You can see the fridge cavity routing in the pic below. The cable entry plate is installed above the white access panel at the top of the fridge cavity and mounted on the trailer roof. The solar wiring then runs down the front left side of the fridge cavity (you can see the red solar wire running along the wire channel in the pic) and penetrates into lower cabinets at that point. From there, the wiring turns left to the solar controller (blue enclosure) mounted at the back of the dinette seating area.
Attached Thumbnails
Fridge top vent.jpg   Fridge Compartment.jpg   Battery cable layout.jpg  
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
tdf-texas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2020, 12:50 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Jim Bennett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
I don't know about Jim but running the solar wiring through the fridge vent was not something I wanted.
Pretty much the same here. Doing home renovations abs building for a living, it really wasn't in me to do a short cut, especially one so obvious, when a better method is available.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
Jim Bennett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2020, 01:04 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
kernwig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Silverado, California
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C "S.S. Iceburg"
Posts: 135
Thank you for the replies and pictures!

Interesting that I don't even see a vent in the top of the refrigerator cavity there.

Any tips on how to pull the fridge, like where it mounts and how to not scratch/destroy anything in the process.

Oh, and tdf-texas: interesting choice on the panels themselves. Those look much easier to mount than brackets. (I'm looking at the tall rocker brackets from AM Solar with VHB.) Which panels are those? Concerns about heat (no air gap under them) or shading?

OP: Sorry, I seem to have highjacked your thread.
kernwig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2020, 01:07 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
tdf-texas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
Pretty much the same here. Doing home renovations abs building for a living, it really wasn't in me to do a short cut, especially one so obvious, when a better method is available.
After seeing the fantastic work you did on your trailer interior, it doesn't surprise me that doing a quality job is number one in your book!

Just one of the reasons I went with your choice for solar - I knew it was done the right way.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
tdf-texas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2020, 01:11 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Doug2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: London, Ontario
Trailer: 2020 Escape 19
Posts: 1,117
We didn't spend a lot of money on our build. It was more than I really wanted to spend after selling the old 17B. One thing I do regret not getting is the solar pre wire. It would take me a day to remove the the fridge and run wires. I didn't want the complete package as I would prefer to do an install like Jim Bennet utilizing the flexible panels taped to the roof. I prefer the stealth look. I could see someone trying to steal the raised panels off my trailer when its in storage.

One thing which was an important option, outdoor shower for doing dishes, another thing I forgot, more USB outlets.
__________________
Had 2 Escapes, 17b, 19, went back to a pop up that fit in the garage. 2018 Coachman Clipper RBST HW AFrame
Doug2000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2020, 01:19 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
tdf-texas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
Quote:
Originally Posted by kernwig View Post
Thank you for the replies and pictures!

Interesting that I don't even see a vent in the top of the refrigerator cavity there.
First pic in my post is looking straight up to the fridge vent.
Second pic is looking directly into the fridge cavity with the vent right behind the white panel.

Any tips on how to pull the fridge, like where it mounts and how to not scratch/destroy anything in the process.
Four screws in the front of the fridge, two on the back bottom fridge rails, then disconnect 12v / 120v / propane. Slides right out.
Oh, and tdf-texas: interesting choice on the panels themselves. Those look much easier to mount than brackets. (I'm looking at the tall rocker brackets from AM Solar with VHB.) Which panels are those? Concerns about heat (no air gap under them) or shading?

OP: Sorry, I seem to have highjacked your thread.
Jim Bennett started using the flexible solar panels first then several of us followed his lead. Mine were bought from Lensun and are attached to the roof with Eternabond tape. I used heat transfer tape between the roof and the panels but that may not be needed as others have not use it and have had no problems with heat.

The nice part of that install is the panels are NOT going to blow off. I have had people ask if I was going to install solar - they can't see them and didn't know I had them.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
tdf-texas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2020, 02:03 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Jim Bennett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
I have had people ask if I was going to install solar - they can't see them and didn't know I had them.
Probably the number one reason I went with semi - flexible. [emoji16]
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
Jim Bennett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2020, 04:59 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
kernwig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Silverado, California
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C "S.S. Iceburg"
Posts: 135
I found and ready every post in the thread about your install Jim. Lots of great info!

I'm looking at putting an 80W on the rear and 60W on the front of my 21C so that I can get some power no matter the sun angle. (TV antenna limits the front.) There's space for another panel in between the A/C and MaxxFan, but that would be shaded over half the time, so will wait to see if I need it. (Will prep everything for all three though.)
kernwig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2020, 10:04 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Ladysmith, British Columbia
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19
Posts: 216
The original owner didn't choose solar. I wanted to copy Escape installation and ran cables to front dinette from rear 190W roof mount panel I installed. To access trailer I used the fridge vent and ran down aft.outboard corner in a conduit to compartment floor. Used conduit to keep wires tight to corner since hot fridge vent is close. Had to cut out insect screen anyway since there was a small wasp nest hanging from screen above fridge heat exchanger. Sealed conduit to floor to keep water tight. Entering at back corner wires were accessible looking over rear wall of under fridge cabinet. From there snakes to front dinette. I didn't remove fridge but definitely would be easier.
As a side note I also ran rear backup camera power wire down to interior switch then off to power. It's bluetooth and antenna is mounted under fridge vent cover with camera on back drivers corner of raised rigid panel. Use camera with truck monitor for underway and backing up.
ChuckBC is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Escape Trailer Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2023 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.