Solar help?

[TravelMama]

Hi,
Working on our build sheet--new to RVing and solar. (long time tent campers)

We plan to boon dock as much as possible. We're having one roof top panel installed and the zamp port to add a portable solar panel down the road. We're also going to get the 2 6v battery set up.

ETI says if we get the zamp port with the regulator than we have to get the panel without the charge controller.

Looks like on the zamp site there are only portables with controllers and they are for 12v battery. I know there are other portable solar companies out there but I chose to them to see portable solar panel wattage availability. Also, their FAQs say that if you go with the dual 6volts make sure they are wired in series.

Anyone have experience with portable solar panels that can advise me about getting the port w/ or w/o regulator? wiring for 6v instead of 12?

TIA

[padlin]

You kind of lost me. Your getting a Zamp port with a "regulator", what's that?

Normal is to get the roof top panel with a solar charge controller, add the Zamp port, which should be wired to the charge controller. You then go out and buy a folding suitcase panel, without an onboard controller, and plug it into the Zamp port.

A Zamp port is really an SAE connector, has nothing to do with Zamp the company, they just happen to use the same kind of connector. People here seem to like calling it a Zamp port.

Most do not buy a Zamp branded portable panel, but I suppose a few do. There are a lot cheaper alternatives.

Here's a few panels by Renogy, you can get them in various sizes, with or without a controller.

https://www.renogy.com/products/sola...lar-suitcases/

[felix2]

What he said. You'll save a lot of $$ too, as the portable will just be the panel, no extra controller needed.

[padlin]

Just order the trailer with the roof top panel, or 2, the "Zamp" port, and the dual 6v batteries. After that we can help you decide on an appropriate portable if you wish.

[NCBill]

Big fan of the Renogy suitcase system, bought on Amazon on Prime Day. I added SAE connectors to both of my trailers, so I can quickly go solar. I also converted a heavy duty extension cord to solar suitcase service. The idea is the camper stays in the shade, and the portable panel goes out in the SUN.

[TravelMama]

Thanks! Yes I knew that Renology made them cheaper too. I think GoalZero does too.

I just did a quick check on Zamp because the build sheet says you can get it with or without the controller.

Interestingly enough, Renology charges $50 more for the suitcase w/o the controller! They're all back ordered now anyway.

[padlin]

Watch the dimensions and the weight of portables. Need to be able to handle it as well as store it somewhere in the TV or trailer. You also need to find one that's close to the same voltage as your rooftop.

[yangstyle]

If I was buying another portable I would probably get a flexible one for the lighter weight.

[tdf-texas]

Lensun makes a good portable solar panel that is light weight.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9okCt4LGN8

I have had the 100 watt model for about three years and it works great. Stores in my wardrobe as well.

[TravelMama]

Thank you all for your input!

We're going with one fixed panel and the port so we can add a suitcase later on after we get to know her.

[TesaLD]

Asking this on Facebook too, but any ideas why my GoPower goes from sun to moon icon when I plug in my Goal Zero 100W suitcase panel into the Zamp port? Seems obvious that I’m not getting any benefit from the external panel, yet anyway. 2019 19’ trailer with two panels on the roof and now, trying, to have access to this third panel for camping in shadier conditions. Thanks!

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by TesaLD

... any ideas why my GoPower goes from sun to moon icon when I plug in my Goal Zero 100W suitcase panel into the Zamp port?

Reversed polarity, perhaps? Is the suitcase panel fighting the built-in panel, instead of contributing? The Zamp port is notorious for causing confusion, because Zamp uses the SAE 2-pin connector with the opposite polarity (reversing positive and negative) to other companies.

[TesaLD]

I know Zamp reverses their wiring, but I have been assured by Dustin at Escape that they “rewire” the Zamp port to the industry norm. I reiterated this with him, so believe that Escape takes care of that issue for us.

[Jim Bennett]

I actually like to have a solar controller on the portable. I just bypass it when hooked to the trailer and use the onboard controller. This way if you want to use it for any other reason, such as helping out someone else, you can easily connect it back in to use when needed.

[TesaLD]

That flexibility might be good to have except my panels, Goal Zero, do not have a charge controller.

[Vermilye]

I have a pair of 160 watt panels on the roof (the size GoPower & Escape provided in 2017), and a 160 watt portable panel. I modified the portable panel with a set of connectors between the panel & controller. When using it with the GoPower controller built into the Escape I use the panel connector to bypass the portable's controller. If I loan the portable panel or use it to recharge the truck battery, I connect the panel to the controller & use its output. While I changed all the connectors in the system to Anderson connectors, many also use the stock SAE (ZAMP) connector.

Because ZAMP reversed the polarity on the SAE connector, I'd always (well, at least for the first time connecting) use a meter to check the polarity of both the trailer connector & the output of the portable panel. I have rewired trailer connectors for a number of owners (none Escape) when they found their portable panel wasn't working. While many controllers have reverse polarity protection, some don't, and connecting backwards will let out the magic smoke!

[TesaLD]

Pardon my ignorance, but how do I use a meter to check the polarity? I have access to a multi-meter, but have never used one. Thanks!

[Vermilye]

Set the meter on DC voltage, 20V or higher scale, then use the probes on the poles of the connector. When measuring, a positive voltage means you have the correct probe on the correct side of the connector (red lead to positive). A negative value on the digital meter indicates you are connected backwards. Check both the panel & trailer to make sure you have the same polarity on each side of the connection (ie you are connecting the positive pole of the output of the panel controller to the positive side of the trailer battery or, if bypassing the controller, the positive side of the panel to the positive input of the trailer's controller).

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by TesaLD

Pardon my ignorance, but how do I use a meter to check the polarity? I have access to a multi-meter, but have never used one. Thanks!

Easy to learn how to check polarity.

Try this at home with a flashlight battery - any size.

Put one lead (typically red colored) on the "+" of the battery. Put the black lead on the "-". Look at the screen and see 1.5V for regular batteries, more or less.

Now reverse the leads, red on "-", black on "+". The screen should have the same 1.5V but with a "-" (minus sign). That tells you the polarity is "backwards".

Lesson learned: If you expect "+" but see "-" then the polarity is reversed and you need to take steps to correct it - like switching wires around - but that is a later lesson.

--
Alan

[Ron in BC]

They say a photo.......

There you can see the difference between reversed polarity and correct polarity.

Personally, I check items where there's any chance someone else may have hooked up something incorrectly.

To me going on a trailer trip without a meter is like going on a trip without a spare tire. Opps, given a previous thread, maybe not the best analogy.

Don't laugh at my ancient Micronta. I have many meters but it's kind of like an old friend and ends up being the one I reach for. Bought it to take to my boat overseas. Salesman tried to sell me an extended warranty. I told him if it craps out it'll swim with the fishes. All these years later it's still going strong.

Ron