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Old 05-16-2016, 09:55 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
It is actually 4 pieces as I recall seeing several joints.
FYI - I went and had a look at our belly band. The band is a two part component. Ours is the standard white outer part with the black inner band.
The outer white band on our trailer is three pieces, two long pieces and one 3 ft piece about mid way along the diver side. The inner black piece is one piece all around on ours.
So it looks like they could be made up differently on different trailers??
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:04 PM   #62
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Spent 30+ years as a manufacturing engineer. Configuration management on custom products is the greatest headache possible on a production line. Just keeping track of what item goes where can be a real circus!
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:29 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
From Post #40 "As adding a switch to the power supply line has nothing at all to do with the water heater itself, I can't see this being the issue. ..... There must be another reason that Escape will not do it, as it is such an easy thing to do. I have added the query to my list for when I visit Reace next month."
Jim, Did you ever find out why Escape won't install an illuminated kill switch for the electric power to the water heater? Our EggCamper came with one mounted just left of the door so you see it every time you leave the camper. You don't even have to remember to look at it because it's right there looking at you. Perhaps we're over caution, but whenever we leave the camp site for an extended period of time, we always make sure the water heater is off via the kill switch (it usually is unless we're preparing a meal or cleaning up afterward) as well as the campground water supply hydrant (don't want any soggy surprises from a cracked water line or loose fitting when we return). It just seems like a cheap, easy and responsible thing for all manufacturers to do from a safety standpoint. Being illuminated, it's also also easy to see if it has mistakenly been left on when we turn in for the night. When the lights go out, if there is a red glow by the door, someone has to get up and flip the switch off! Anyway, just curious what you might have found out during the visit to the factory you were planning earlier this year.... Dale
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Old 05-17-2016, 12:00 AM   #64
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FYI - I went and had a look at our belly band. The band is a two part component. Ours is the standard white outer part with the black inner band.
The outer white band on our trailer is three pieces, two long pieces and one 3 ft piece about mid way along the diver side. The inner black piece is one piece all around on ours.
So it looks like they could be made up differently on different trailers??
I assumed that we were talking only about the "inner" part - the soft (rubber or vinyl) strip which covers the fasteners, not the metal band. The metal band is painted white whether you get the standard (black strip in white band) or optional (white strip in white band) colour. I assumed the soft strip would be in one piece if possible.
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:30 AM   #65
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Jim, Did you ever find out why Escape won't install an illuminated kill switch for the electric power to the water heater? Our EggCamper came with one mounted just left of the door so you see it every time you leave the camper. You don't even have to remember to look at it because it's right there looking at you. Perhaps we're over caution, but whenever we leave the camp site for an extended period of time, we always make sure the water heater is off via the kill switch (it usually is unless we're preparing a meal or cleaning up afterward) as well as the campground water supply hydrant (don't want any soggy surprises from a cracked water line or loose fitting when we return). It just seems like a cheap, easy and responsible thing for all manufacturers to do from a safety standpoint. Being illuminated, it's also also easy to see if it has mistakenly been left on when we turn in for the night. When the lights go out, if there is a red glow by the door, someone has to get up and flip the switch off! Anyway, just curious what you might have found out during the visit to the factory you were planning earlier this year.... Dale
I had meant to ask Reace, but somehow missed that, even though it was on my loooong list of queries. Like conversations here, we moved to discussing so many other things.

When in a campground, we pretty much leave the water heater on all the time. The switch is mostly for convenience, the light to alert us when the heater might be empty. We leave the water on all the time too, if hooked to city water. Not much different then when at home, not turning these two things off when we leave for the day, though it certainly would not hurt.
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:42 AM   #66
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Two complete different set ups. The EggCamper is all electric and that kill switch is merely an illuminated 120v switch that indicates on/off status of the electric feeding the heater. The water heater is an electric 4 gallon residential point of use water heater.
The switch does not indicate if there is water in the heater, only that the electric is on.

The water heater in the Escape is 12v operated and there is a switch indicator that tells you that it is operating properly. The optional 120v option has another switch which turns on/off the electric power for the electric heating rod only. The water heater is still "on" due to the propane operation so there is no kill switch for the water heater, per se.
Under either scenarios, it is not advised to turn on either of these heaters if there is no water in them, so turing on the hot side of your sink supply will tell you if you have water in the heater. Then you can turn on the electric or propane switches
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:05 AM   #67
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Two complete different set ups. The EggCamper is all electric and that kill switch is merely an illuminated 120v switch that indicates on/off status of the electric feeding the heater. The water heater is an electric 4 gallon residential point of use water heater.
The switch does not indicate if there is water in the heater, only that the electric is on.

The water heater in the Escape is 12v operated and there is a switch indicator that tells you that it is operating properly. The optional 120v option has another switch which turns on/off the electric power for the electric heating rod only. The water heater is still "on" due to the propane operation so there is no kill switch for the water heater, per se.
Under either scenarios, it is not advised to turn on either of these heaters if there is no water in them, so turing on the hot side of your sink supply will tell you if you have water in the heater. Then you can turn on the electric or propane switches
Did you mean propane operated here?
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:13 AM   #68
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For those who have not yet operated the water heater.

The standard issue is propane operated. Inside there is a switch to turn it on and off, with an indicator light that shows that the propane to the heater is igniting when on. It turns off when ignition is successful. A modification that I made adding a small indicator lamp that shone constantly when the heater was turned on with propane, so I would remember to turn it off when not needed, saving fuel.

The optional water heater adds the 120V element. This is only turned on by a small switch, awkward to access, accessed on the outside of the water heater itself, meaning you need to go outside to the water heater access to turn it on or off. I found this inconvenient, and wired a switch inline to the power supply to the heater, and added a small indicator light to show it was on, as it is impossible to tell for certain when inside, and we once plugged the trailer in when it was left on, and the water heater drained, burning out the element.

Here is an old post of mine showing the modifications I did. I know, I know, many of you have seen this, I just though I would share for newer members.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...itch-1165.html
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:14 AM   #69
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Yes, the propane is 12v operated. Then once it gets hot you can turn on the electric to keep it warm. A lot quicker than using the electric to heat the water.
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Old 05-17-2016, 11:33 AM   #70
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#4 so if i want a custom countertop(s) i simply pay ETI the $100 (?) CAD fee and I tell ETI what the different color is, and ETI orders it from Pioneer Building Supply...?
Seems very easy and fair.

I don't like the pattered fabric look on the valance.... was thinking of black fabric on valances only.... but how does NO valance look? (with the stock ETI blinds)

thanks.
Yep on question #4.

Haven't a clue how the stock blinds would look without a valence. Take one of the photos off this site, photoshop it without one and see how it looks!

And if you wanted a different fabric, I don't see why ETI wouldn't do that. You'd have to pay some sort of customization fee, I imagine, but clueless as to how much it would be.

Regarding the Bali blinds. The other day I got the idea that there must be other companies besides Bali making cellular shades. Um, yeah, there are. I now have massive amounts of samples from 7 different places I found online. They all came when I was out of town, so now I get to have loads of fun sorting through all the samples and deciding what I want. Lots more to choose from than what Bali puts out. Even ones with texture or patterns on the fabric (alas, none with cat paw prints). Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!
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Old 05-17-2016, 12:45 PM   #71
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Haven't a clue how the stock blinds would look without a valence. Take one of the photos off this site, photoshop it without one and see how it looks!
Or one could just get one of the folks with a trailer built before they started adding them a few years ago. I am not sure when they started adding them though. I never had them in my 19, though do think they make a nice finishing touch.
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Old 05-17-2016, 12:49 PM   #72
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Oh, didn't realize that was a recent addition to the trailers. Yeah, that would be much easier, huh?
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Old 05-17-2016, 01:19 PM   #73
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Here is how the 2005 17b came with the aluminum blinds
The second picture is the Closed cell cordless blinds we added which Sarandipity is now enjoying... You'll notice the loops screwed under the frame at the bottom are how the blinds were held close to the window when closed.
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Old 05-17-2016, 01:20 PM   #74
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gbaglo just posted photos of his lack of valances here: http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f4...ance-7834.html
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:33 PM   #75
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My white belly band is just a white vinyl tape like insert in the track that goes around the trailer and covers the seam. (I've seen black, white and tan.) It is easily changed. However, not having seen the latest..the arrangement may be very different from 2009.
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:27 PM   #76
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It is certainly good to know with certainty which of the heat sources is active.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Yes, the propane is 12v operated.
It might be more clear to say that the propane-fired operation of the heater is controlled by 12V DC power. The (optional) 120V AC heating element might also be controlled by 12V DC, but I didn't check.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Then once it gets hot you can turn on the electric to keep it warm. A lot quicker than using the electric to heat the water.
With a genuine OEM electric heating element (not one of those add-on "Hot Rod" things) you should be able to leave both propane and electric heat on at the same time, for even faster heating; that means leaving the electric element on all the time, except when the water is drained, is quite practical... maybe that's why Suburban thinks the poorly accessible and not visible switch is okay.

Electric-only works fine, but when hot water is used electric-only doesn't recover to the set temperature as quickly, because the electric heating element is not as powerful as the propane burner (that would take too much power for RVs that typically use these water heaters).
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:20 AM   #77
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Rookie question, but just to be sure - if you choose to delete a standard feature, do you get a credit or rebate of some kind? Makes sense you would. And if so, is there somewhere on the Escape website where those credit/rebate values are listed? For example, what if you choose not to get the range hood in the 21? We've not seen an actual build sheet yet, so we're just going off the list of add options and their prices listed on the website, and we don't see a "delete" option list with values. Just curious....
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:29 AM   #78
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No credit, just a "delete" and instead there is a light installed. My current 2017 build sheet reflects this policy.
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:35 AM   #79
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Rookie question, but just to be sure - if you choose to delete a standard feature, do you get a credit or rebate of some kind? Makes sense you would. And if so, is there somewhere on the Escape website where those credit/rebate values are listed? For example, what if you choose not to get the range hood in the 21? We've not seen an actual build sheet yet, so we're just going off the list of add options and their prices listed on the website, and we don't see a "delete" option list with values. Just curious....
It depends on what you get removed from the build sheet and not everything can be removed. The credits aren't listed on their site. You pretty much have to comb through this forum for some of that information. And, of course, ETI will tell you if there's a credit (or not) for something that's been deleted, as some of that might have changed from when a customer did that.

There isn't a credit if you don't get the range hood installed; least there wasn't when I looked into that option.

For example, on the build sheet for our trailer, this is what we deleted and if there's a credit, I listed it after the item:

stove cover, n/c (no credit)
shelf over bed, n/c
bathroom sink, n/c
mattress, $150 credit
day shades (we're going with cellular shades we install ourselves), $125
valences, $50 ($10 per window valence)
graphics, $100
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:56 AM   #80
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Very helpful. Thanks, all.....
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