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Old 03-28-2022, 10:50 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by sofmerc View Post
Lol...I think all us future owners Amazon cart overfloweth... Been buying stuff for a year..as everyone else does.. I need my trailer so I can get my garage back!
After a few trips, you'll be emptying your trailer into the garage.
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Old 03-29-2022, 07:31 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by sofmerc View Post
Lol...I think all us future owners Amazon cart overfloweth... Been buying stuff for a year..as everyone else does.. I need my trailer so I can get my garage back!
Ain't that the truth, I have an entire corner of my garage filled with camping items, some of which I have forgotten I'm sure. Can not wait to dive in and find surprises while packing for the trip. I even have thought about getting a cap for the truck for more capacity.
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Old 03-30-2022, 01:56 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Lorraine Pittsburgh View Post
Working through my build sheet here. Thanks to all of the MANY thoughtful & thorough posts on this forum, I've made most of these decisions, but a few items remain.

Both the power awning & manual awning seem to have pros & cons, most of which I understand. I'm leaning toward the manual awning, but am wondering about one thing with it. When the awning is retracted, how much of the window is blocked by the arm? This seems like a minor thing, but light & views are a big priority for me. Does anyone happen to have a picture taken from inside a 5.0 with the arm folded in against the window? Doesn't seem likely, but this group often surprises me.

Thanks in advance!
Well, let me start by saying, the power awning is not cheap/inexpensive. I was like you and had planned on getting the manual awning. We have a 2021, 5.0 that we moved up to from a Casita (like so many on this forum). All the Casita's have manual awnings and it was fine for us. However, I was surprised at how vehement my wife was about getting the power awning. She really did not like the braces that connect back to the body of the trailer when the awning is deployed. Needless to say, we went with the power awning. It is truly one of my favorite features after living with it in the "real world". I suppose if we hadn't gotten it, we wouldn't know any better but now wouldn't consider NOT having it. Again, they're not cheap but if you can afford it, I would recommend going for it! Just my $0.02.
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Old 03-30-2022, 08:34 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Colorado Kirk View Post
Well, let me start by saying, the power awning is not cheap/inexpensive. I was like you and had planned on getting the manual awning. We have a 2021, 5.0 that we moved up to from a Casita (like so many on this forum). All the Casita's have manual awnings and it was fine for us. However, I was surprised at how vehement my wife was about getting the power awning. She really did not like the braces that connect back to the body of the trailer when the awning is deployed. Needless to say, we went with the power awning. It is truly one of my favorite features after living with it in the "real world". I suppose if we hadn't gotten it, we wouldn't know any better but now wouldn't consider NOT having it. Again, they're not cheap but if you can afford it, I would recommend going for it! Just my $0.02.
A thoughtful opinion based on experience with both types of awning - definitely worth more than $ 0.02. Thanks so much for chiming in!
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Old 03-31-2022, 11:38 AM   #25
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Not sure where to ask this and don’t want to hijack this persons thread, but it’s a 5.0 question which is why I’m posting here. For those of you that have the high lift option, does the front landing gear actually reach the ground when fully deployed or do you have to stack stuff under the front “feet” for support? Thanks in advance!
We have the lift option on our 5.0TA and there is not enough range of motion/lift length in the factory electric jacks to hook or unhook without blocks under the jack legs. Gooseneck livestock and equipment trailers typically have spring loaded extenders built into their front lift jack legs that eliminate the need for blocks under the jack legs, not sure if something like this could be adapted to the lighter duty jack legs on the 5.0TA. It is a nice feature that can eliminate the requirement for blocks.
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Old 03-31-2022, 12:06 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by SWCO View Post
We have the lift option on our 5.0TA and there is not enough range of motion/lift length in the factory electric jacks to hook or unhook without blocks under the jack legs. Gooseneck livestock and equipment trailers typically have spring loaded extenders built into their front lift jack legs that eliminate the need for blocks under the jack legs, not sure if something like this could be adapted to the lighter duty jack legs on the 5.0TA. It is a nice feature that can eliminate the requirement for blocks.
We’ll, we have the high lift axle and I find it interesting that you are specific about the front electric jacks. Yes, there is plenty of travel to use these without blocks. I ended up getting blocks simply because the travel time is quite long and the added 7” significantly reduces that time.
However, I can say that the back, manual jacks are NOT long enough without blocks. This is especially true since we’ve found that most sites tend to have a grade to them that is lower in the back half. This makes the reach requirement even longer.
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Old 03-31-2022, 12:51 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Deva View Post
Not sure where to ask this and don’t want to hijack this persons thread, but it’s a 5.0 question which is why I’m posting here. For those of you that have the high lift option, does the front landing gear actually reach the ground when fully deployed or do you have to stack stuff under the front “feet” for support? Thanks in advance!
As indicated by previous posts the answer, as far as hitching height, may depend on your truck and type of hitch. Ground slope between the truck and trailer can be a factor, too.

My trailer does have the high-lift axle option. I've got an Andersen hitch, which requires more hitch-height than a 5th wheel hitch for coupling all other things being equal. Even so, with my 2WD F150 I've not needed blocks under the jacks to hitch (yet).

But, due to the slow jack travel already mentioned I, too, made a pair of 9" tall blocks to make the process a bit quicker even if not necessary.

I also agree that the rear stabilizers are where blocks are more often a necessity rather than just a convenience.

My suggestion is to 'be prepared', equip your rig with an assortment of jack and stabilizer blocks of whatever type so you can deal with the varied situations you'll encounter.

Hope that helps, Have Fun!
Attached Thumbnails
9 INCH JACK BLOCKS.jpg  
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Old 03-31-2022, 03:36 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Centex View Post
Hope that helps, Have Fun!
Very helpful, thank you. I didn’t even think of the back stabilizer jacks. Seems I will need quite a few of those handy square thingamabobs. With the Andersen Hitch, it fits over a ball placed in the bed of the pickup, right? What keeps that ball in place? I’ve watched some videos about the Andersen hitch, but they never mention exactly how it is secured in the bed other than if fits over the pre-existing ball in the bed of the truck…
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Old 03-31-2022, 03:49 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
After a few trips, you'll be emptying your trailer into the garage.
I doubt sewer hoses, numberpad door lock, water hoses, chocks andersen levelers, outdoor rug, 1up bike rack, Houghton 3400 AC etc, will make it back to my garage once installed..
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