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Old 04-11-2020, 11:14 AM   #21
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wow why bother making these 12 volt. 22 amps draw on the big one and 10.5 amp draw on the smaller. seems as other have said you really can use the 12 volt in real world use.
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Old 04-11-2020, 11:22 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY View Post
wow why bother making these 12 volt. 22 amps draw on the big one and 10.5 amp draw on the smaller. seems as other have said you really can use the 12 volt in real world use.
My only guess is so you could, for a very short time, turn off the propane while gassing up, changing propane bottles, or going through a tunnel and still keep the fridge going.

Other than that, I agree - using 12v to run the fridge is a great way to drain the battery quickly.
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Old 04-11-2020, 11:23 AM   #23
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wow why bother making these 12 volt. 22 amps draw on the big one and 10.5 amp draw on the smaller. seems as other have said you really can use the 12 volt in real world use.
Some TVs do in fact have wiring and charging systems to comfortably support amp demands in those ranges on their +12VDC 7-pin connectors. Some owners prefer the use of that 12VDC over open-flame propane when underway for a variety of valid reasons, and that can provide sufficient cooling to maintain food cool/frozen while on the road without draining the battery on a suitably equipped TV.

Options for the wider market can be good, even if not one that everyone might exercise.
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Old 04-11-2020, 12:59 PM   #24
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Some TVs do in fact have wiring and charging systems to comfortably support amp demands in those ranges on their +12VDC 7-pin connectors. Some owners prefer the use of that 12VDC over open-flame propane when underway for a variety of valid reasons, and that can provide sufficient cooling to maintain food cool/frozen while on the road without draining the battery on a suitably equipped TV.

Options for the wider market can be good, even if not one that everyone might exercise.
I wonder if i run a direct wire on my Tacoma pickup to the 7 pin if that would support it. I know with tow package it has heavy Duty alternator . I will have to check into that. is that case smaller fridge would draw 1/2 the amps
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Old 04-11-2020, 01:22 PM   #25
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The problem with running fridge on DC is that if you're camping, using the furnace overnight and leaving in the morning, you house battery will be depleted. If you travel with the fridge on DC, when arrive at your destination, your house battery will still be depleted. There is not enough power delivered to run the fridge on DC and charge the trailer battery.

(As explained to me by Reace ).
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Old 04-11-2020, 01:26 PM   #26
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A Dometic salesman at the Quartzsite Big Tent show told me the only real difference between the DM 2663 & the DM 2683 is they switched to LED lighting, & the controls on the 2683 have been moved to the inside of the freezer. Physically, they are the same size. Of course that was a salesman. I do know he was right on the LED lighting & the move of the controls - I saw one at the show.

In both refrigerators, the separate freezer makes a lot of sense, and the larger size makes for less trips to the store, great when boon docking. If I had purchased a 19, I would have gone for the larger refrigerator. It is standard in the 21.

I do wish my DM 2663 would run a couple of degrees cooler. Tends to run between 38F - 40F unless the nights go b below 40F. I have to switch it between settings 4 during the night & 5 during the day. I'm not sure why they can't make a temperature sensor in the refrigerator that controls the temperature under various outside temperatures. Still, it stays below 40F in 95F weather, something my previous refrigerator couldn't do.
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Old 04-11-2020, 01:28 PM   #27
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Carl: Are you suggesting this is abnormal? Sounds pretty reasonable to me for an absorption fridge. I believe most campers turn the fridge on to pre-cool the day before a trip. I have found that pre-chilled food is key as well for initial stability of temperature.
No, I am not. I am merely stating that absorption refrigerators perform differently from what people unfamiliar with them expect. Many newbies think their trailer refrigerator will work like the refrigerator at home in the kitchen.

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Kinda like comparing apples and oranges for your original fridge vs the ones Escape uses now. The RM8555/RM8551 shouldn't have been used by Escape as it was not intended for the US/Canadian market but for northern Europe. It had cooling problems from the start.
I would partially disagree. I have an RMD8555. Yes, it is European meaning that some components are hard to find. I had to order a new evaporation cup from a company in the UK and it took 3 weeks to get it. Performance wise, however, I have no complaints. After relocating the thermostat, it cools as well as any Dometic produced in and for the North American market. In 2016 I spent a week in Monument Valley, with daytime temps running around 105 F. My refrigerator never exceeded 39 according to the thermometer. Lucky perhaps, but Im not complaining.
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Old 04-11-2020, 02:04 PM   #28
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When we were having trouble with the old style refrigerators, I believe the single door model was more efficient as the freezer inside was able to keep the refer colder vs a separate compartment. I have not used the new style dual door unit for comparison, had hoped to do that as we type, but life got in the way.
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Old 04-11-2020, 02:43 PM   #29
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Some of this thread discussion is getting pretty silly, IMO.

Of course we go to propane for the reefer when parked without shore-power.

Of course we go to 120VAC mode when we have shore power and want to save propane.

Of course we only use 12VDC mode when towing with an adequate charging system in-play (or maybe when parked if we have one heckova solar charging system).

Sure, you can kill a battery if you make silly choices

That's the beauty of a 3-way system .... optimal operating mode available to suite the energy source available
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Old 04-11-2020, 03:03 PM   #30
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Per post #25, after discussion with Reace, I opted for two-way fridge ( AC and propane ). I've not missed the 12V one iota.
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Old 04-11-2020, 03:27 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Kinda like comparing apples and oranges for your original fridge vs the ones Escape uses now. The RM8555/RM8551 shouldn't have been used by Escape as it was not intended for the US/Canadian market but for northern Europe. It had cooling problems from the start.
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...ling-5344.html

Escape uses the DM2683LBFX for the 6 cu ft model.
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post318590

The last I heard, they were using the RM 2554 for the 5 cu ft model.
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...ions-7403.html

Hope this helps. For what it's worth - I've had both fridges and would pick the DM2683 in a heartbeat over the RM2554. The freezer in the DM2683 can hold a lot more and the double doors keep the freezer from loosing cold as much.
Hi Tom just because I had time to spare went back to the thread on RM 8555/RM8551/refrigerators and it sure was exhausting ,but did it anyway . An update on the mods to improve our RM8551 , so far refrigerator was vastly improved with the mods . Living where we do will high temps always pass 95 in summer we stay below 40 on 4 . In the middle of night will drop to even 31 on 4 but just leave it because the day will warm up . No it doesnt work as well as the previous Dometics but can deal with until refrigerator needs a big repair . Then will look at our options at that time . Meanwhile just staying with this refrigerator as long as it works . Always have a cooler along just in case . Pat
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Old 04-12-2020, 08:29 AM   #32
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Using the fridge on DC while traveling works for me. I check the batteries on arrival and all is well.

My TV is an F250 diesel with HD alt (seems like everything is HD now) and I have the 190 Solar.

I had to have the original fridge replaced under warranty. I can't remember the model of the new one but it has the controls inside.
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Old 04-12-2020, 08:58 AM   #33
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Using the fridge on DC while traveling works for me. I check the batteries on arrival and all is well.

My TV is an F250 diesel with HD alt (seems like everything is HD now) and I have the 190 Solar.

I had to have the original fridge replaced under warranty. I can't remember the model of the new one but it has the controls inside.
Unless you have replaced your tow vehicle wiring and trailer wiring the stock wires are not adequate for 12v refer operation. Basically your solar is operating the unit and eventually on a cloudy day it will stop. Why not use propane, it is so efficient and hotter (which is what you want with an absorption unit) than a 12v heater, It is really inefficient.
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Old 04-12-2020, 12:16 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Unless you have replaced your tow vehicle wiring and trailer wiring the stock wires are not adequate for 12v refer operation. Basically your solar is operating the unit and eventually on a cloudy day it will stop. Why not use propane, it is so efficient and hotter (which is what you want with an absorption unit) than a 12v heater, It is really inefficient.
l cool the fridge the nite before leaving with AC and the DC keeps it at the same temp during travel. if the solar is operating the un it, that is ok with me. That's what it's for.

if it quits working, i'll do the propane way.

it ain't broke so I ain't fixin it. )

See comment below.
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Old 04-12-2020, 01:46 PM   #35
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Unless you have replaced your tow vehicle wiring and trailer wiring the stock wires are not adequate for 12v refer operation. ...
That simply isn't valid as a 'blanket statement'; just like many tow vehicle characteristics relating to it's capability for towing any given RV, the adequacy of a TVs systems for supporting a reefer in 12VDC mode varies according to the TVs OE equipment.

For example, on my 2005 F150 5.4l the OE "Trailer tow battery charge" circuit is fused at 30A. I'm confident that if Ford fused the circuit at 30A the entire circuit to that pin on the OE bumper connector on the truck is conservatively adequate for that load.

That circuit on the truck, in combination with the "HD alternator" included with that vehicle's OE tow package, is quite adequate to comfortably support many RV reefers operating in 12VDC mode when underway, along with the other typical RV battery-charging load. I'll offer that Ford F150's and up have for many years enjoyed those capabilities with the common OE towing package option.

As to the wiring in the trailer, yes, the ampacity of that part of the circuit must also be appropriate for the load.

My point is that folks should recognize some (many) TVs as OE are in fact perfectly capable of comfortably supporting RV reefers in 12VDC mode when underway. It's an easy matter to confirm that for any particular TV.

So why is that useful? Because it allows the convenience and safety of turning off RV propane at the tank at the start of a day underway, absolutely eliminating all open-flames in the RV and any risk associated with that.

Whether or not one believes the risk of open-flames such as pilot lights, auto-igniting reefers, WH's, etc. is significant when approaching fuel refill depots, etc, one cannot deny that there is a risk, and if the bad occurs the consequences are invariably very significant.

Yes, one can go through the discipline of ensuring those flames are extinguished and cannot auto-ignite prior to approaching a fuel depot, and then re-configuring after departing the fuel depot. That's certainly a valid choice if rigorously practiced. Or, one can choose to ignore that risk.

Others may choose the the alternative of simply configuring their rig for 'assuredly flameless' operation at the start of a day on the road and not have to undertake those extra steps when fueling or approaching tunnels / ferries, etc. where open flames are risky if not prohibited.

While not everyone may exercise the operational options afforded by 12VDC reefer mode, it strikes me as less than helpful to suggest that the option of that mode of operation is 'effectively useless' for everyone, or to advance 'blanket statements' about the exercise of that option which are not valid as such.
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Old 04-12-2020, 02:05 PM   #36
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Centex,
Once you get your Escape you can measure the output from your Honda Ridgeline inside the trailer to see if the wiring in the Honda as well as inside the power cord and Escape is sized properly to allow you enough amps to operate your refer on 12v. I'd be surprised with the results. If wrong I'll retract my blanket statement. Until then I'm on propane and when refilling I merely pull into the first pump and leave my trailer a car length away.
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Old 04-12-2020, 03:08 PM   #37
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Centex,
Once you get your Escape you can measure the output from your Honda Ridgeline inside the trailer to see if the wiring in the Honda as well as inside the power cord and Escape is sized properly to allow you enough amps to operate your refer on 12v. I'd be surprised with the results. If wrong I'll retract my blanket statement. Until then I'm on propane and when refilling I merely pull into the first pump and leave my trailer a car length away.
When towing with my 2015 F-150, the 12v current combined with the current provided by the solar panel is inadequate to maintain fully charged batteries (2 x 6v). Furthermore, the temperature in the refrigerator creeps upward. When I run on propane, the temperature in the refrigerator is typically in the 33 to 34 F range. I find 12vdc operation about as useful as a screen door on a submerged submarine. YMMV.
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Old 04-12-2020, 03:18 PM   #38
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When towing with my 2015 F-150, the 12v current combined with the current provided by the solar panel is inadequate to maintain fully charged batteries (2 x 6v). Furthermore, the temperature in the refrigerator creeps upward. When I run on propane, the temperature in the refrigerator is typically in the 33 to 34 F range. I find 12vdc operation about as useful as a screen door on a submerged submarine. YMMV.
Same exact experience for us. I've run the fridge on 12V DC adequately when I'm camped, and the outside temps are let's say 55F or colder. Outside of that scenario, I find the DC a useless setting.
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Old 04-12-2020, 03:23 PM   #39
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cpaharley2008, I already know that the Ridgeline trailer connector battery charging circuit is only rated for 20A. Given that I'm always starting my towing-days with a topped-off RV battery (I'm a 99% shore-power camper) it does fine maintaining food cool/frozen with my current Casita's small RM2454 in 12VDC mode.

I have no illusions about the Ridgeline's capability to support the reefer in the E21 in 12VDC mode: the alternator can handle it but the OE circuits will not. That can be remedied by running a dedicated circuit with appropriate fuse / wire from battery (+) to the bumper connector, with a proper relay triggered by the OE circuit to retain power-off-with-engine-off to that pin per OE operation / prevent TV battery depletion when engine-off with trailer connected. I've already upgraded the Ridgeline's OE 7-blade-only connector to a Hopkins '7 + 4 dual' socket because I frequently tow utility trailers with 4-flat connectors and don't like keeping track of adapters. The Hopkins 7-blade socket / pigtail is rated for adequate ampacity and I upgraded the socket>vehicle ground-leg when that was installed.

I won't know the E21's capabilities 'till it's in-hand, but I will not be surprised to find it's inadequately-wired and will required DIY upgrade, too.

With due respect, none of that specific to the Ridgeline has any bearing on a 'blanket statement', given that there are demonstrable OE TV exceptions to the statement.

Your choices with regard to fire / explosion risk-management are of course your prerogative, just as others may elect to exercise different choices in that regard.
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Old 04-12-2020, 03:43 PM   #40
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I did a "test" of 12V power for my Dometic DM2663LBX refrigerator connected to my 2018 F 150 3.5EB with tow package #1, and stock wiring in the tow/Haul mode. The trailer has 2 160 watt solar panels, and a Victron 100/30 solar controller & a Victron 712 battery monitor, and a pair of Battleborn lithium batteries. There is a 9 amp DC to DC controller in the trailer on the truck charge line set at 14.4V.

The day was partly cloudy. On the drive, depending on the clouds, the Victron battery monitor showed between -15 amps to +4 amps. At the end of a 40 mile drive, the batteries were down by 10 amp hours.

My conclusion is I could probably run the refrigerator on 12V on sunny days, but propane is far more reliable.
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