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Old 03-31-2015, 11:36 PM   #81
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Rack recommendations from Orbital Machine Works

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Why would you use a bike rack that the manufacturer says not to use for RV's? BTW, trailers have way more rock & roll on the back than most RV's do.

Orbital Machine Works supplies a rear hitch receiver for Casita's. They have some specific thoughts on bike racks. They have had good results with certain Thule, Yakima, and Kuat models. I don't think they have used 1Up. These guys know their stuff:

FAQs

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Old 04-01-2015, 12:34 AM   #82
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Why would you use a bike rack that the manufacturer says not to use for RV's? BTW, trailers have way more rock & roll on the back than most RV's do.
I have only used one on the back of an SUV, but I would have not problem using it on an RV. Other than the 1UP, it is at least as strong as any other I have seen. I guess time will tell. I would suggest that anyone with a rack have someone they know follow them and see how it performs. Maybe record it.
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Old 04-02-2015, 03:34 PM   #83
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I ordered the 1up yesterday. Will report on how it works out.
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Old 04-02-2015, 03:51 PM   #84
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I ordered the 1up yesterday. Will report on how it works out.
Guarantee you will love it, I sure do like mine.

If you have an eye for quality, you will be impressed.
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:37 PM   #85
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how do you end up compensating weight at the front of the trailer, for those of you with a bike rack at the back of the trailer? Do you just add 10-15% weight somehow up front, or is there some sort of leverage thing going on that requires even more compensating weight up front?
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:07 PM   #86
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More important for single axle than tandem, however we've not had a problem toting two mtn. bikes with either our 17B or 21. The rack weighs 50 lbs. or less and the bikes 35 lbs. or less. Max weight for bike rack hitch is 150. Staying within that limit and our experience makes me think no special precautions need to be taken with loading other than normal considerations- meaning don't overload the rear.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:15 PM   #87
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If towing with the Pilot, I do put as much weight forward as possible. Things like the cooler, and any jugs of drinking water get put all the way forward. I will even move a couple other things from the under the bed area, like the heavy bocce balls. Basically, I look at shifting close to 100 pounds further forward. Using the WDH helps with sway too.

If towing with the F-350, I do keep some weight forward, but it handles the trailer, no problem.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:18 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamie beers View Post
how do you end up compensating weight at the front of the trailer, for those of you with a bike rack at the back of the trailer? Do you just add 10-15% weight somehow up front, or is there some sort of leverage thing going on that requires even more compensating weight up front?
The weight removed from the tongue could be an issue. I guess it depends on where you start out. I just got my 1Up rack a couple of days back and was considering the same issue. That caused me to get my Sherline tongue scale out for the first time. Sherline recommends a target of 12% of weight on the tongue. My best guess is that fully loaded we are about 4500 lbs. Twelve percent would put the target at 540 lb hitch weight. I will check that when I get loaded up. I also want to hit the truck scale and see where we are on actual trailer weight. I think we are always going to want to put heavy stuff in the front. When I had my HiLo with four bikes on the back I ran with half a tank of water in the front mounted water tank and that seemed to help stability. Just my thoughts.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:32 PM   #89
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good replies thanks. speaking of water, i was thinking about the front end needs if travelling with a full tank of water and bike rack as well. suppose same ideas apply - add some weight up front.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:34 PM   #90
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Escape sells the Sherline scale at a good price. With it, you will know exactly what your tongue weight is.
Beer store sells cases of ballast with handles so you can easily shift weight forward or back as needed.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:45 PM   #91
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Escape sells the Sherline scale at a good price. With it, you will know exactly what your tongue weight is.
Beer store sells cases of ballast with handles so you can easily shift weight forward or back as needed.
I never realized Escape sells the Sherline, I may get them to bring one to the rally for me, as I have always planned to get on, but just haven't gotten around to it.

You ballast plan is a great one, but not thought out all the way. How the heck do I get the bikes home?
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:57 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Escape sells the Sherline scale at a good price. With it, you will know exactly what your tongue weight is.
Beer store sells cases of ballast with handles so you can easily shift weight forward or back as needed.
ETI's price was the best I have seen on the Sherline. Definitely pick one up when you get your trailer.

Excellent point on ballast. When we moved I screwed up on loading a UHaul. Almost lost it due to sway. Stopped at Home Depot and bought 300 lbs of water softener salt and strapped it to the tongue. Made all the difference in the world.

Beer would be better. It took me a year and a half to use all the salt. Beer would go a bit quicker.
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Old 04-11-2015, 12:06 AM   #93
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good replies thanks. speaking of water, i was thinking about the front end needs if travelling with a full tank of water and bike rack as well. suppose same ideas apply - add some weight up front.
Our manual states to travel with the water tank(located at axles) either full or empty to avoid sloshing. We try to travel dry for the long hauls as it saves 250 lbs.(30 gal) from being towed. We do carry 6-9 gallons of fresh in smaller jugs in our TV.
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Old 04-11-2015, 12:13 AM   #94
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Quote:
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ETI's price was the best I have seen on the Sherline. Definitely pick one up when you get your trailer.

Excellent point on ballast. When we moved I screwed up on loading a UHaul. Almost lost it due to sway. Stopped at Home Depot and bought 300 lbs of water softener salt and strapped it to the tongue. Made all the difference in the world.

Beer would be better. It took me a year and a half to use all the salt. Beer would go a bit quicker.
Three years ago I pulled a 12 ft UHaul to Florida and was wondering how to weigh the tongue but ended up guessing. Anything above 55 mph it started to fishtail so it was a long slow trip. Not enough weight up front. Loren
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:38 AM   #95
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Quote:
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I never realized Escape sells the Sherline, I may get them to bring one to the rally for me, as I have always planned to get on, but just haven't gotten around to it.

You ballast plan is a great one, but not thought out all the way. How the heck do I get the bikes home?
Buy more beer for the return leg!
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Old 04-11-2015, 09:18 AM   #96
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Just be sure to get the lowest Shoreline scale, I believe it is 0-1000 lbs. The larger ones are to hard to read.
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Old 04-11-2015, 11:39 AM   #97
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One 1upusa super duty silver single on its way. Will be at the rally.
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Old 04-11-2015, 03:29 PM   #98
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Our manual states to travel with the water tank(located at axles) either full or empty to avoid sloshing.
The fresh water tanks I've seen in Escapes are rear of the main frame section (under the raised floor in models with a step; in the 1.5"x3" framed section in any case), and thus well rear of the axle (or the rearmost axle in tandems. Has the freshwater tank swapped places with the grey waste tank (which was further forward)?
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Old 04-11-2015, 03:32 PM   #99
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Three years ago I pulled a 12 ft UHaul to Florida and was wondering how to weigh the tongue but ended up guessing. Anything above 55 mph it started to fishtail so it was a long slow trip.
If you don't have air suspension in the back of the tug, then how much the trailer squashes the rear of the tug down is a decent rough indicator of trailer tongue weight. Do you weigh about what the trailer tongue should weigh, and if so does the trailer push the hitch down at least as much as you standing on the hitch does?

A common problem with U-Haul trailers is that all but the smallest are tandem axle and have high couplers, so they often end up nose-down and thus "tiptoeing" on the front axle... and thus unstable.

Most people working at U-Haul locations have no clue about towing and you're entirely on your own to set up the rig for safe operation. It doesn't help that U-Haul doesn't even publish the coupler heights for their trailers.
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Old 04-11-2015, 03:33 PM   #100
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Just be sure to get the lowest Shoreline scale, I believe it is 0-1000 lbs. The larger ones are to hard to read.
I agree... or change the gauge to the lower-pressure gauge. The pressure range of the gauge is the only difference between Sherline scale models.
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