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Old 10-29-2016, 07:57 PM   #21
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Gene,
Along with my comments, please take a look at some of the photos on the thread I just posted: 17 Build-one year later - Escape Trailer Owners Community

2 Burner Stainless Stove: We did it, and are glad we stayed with 2 burner. We can't imagine a time when we'd need 3. We're glad for all the counter space we can get. (Also, check out what rotating might give you. For us, it was several inches more counter, though we lost a little behind the stove. There's still enough room for stuff like salt/pepper...). Stainless is , and matches the wood and counter.

USB: we need more, where we use devices, around the dinette, and where we park our phones for charging.

Dual 6 volt batteries, but no solar. Hmmm. I would think they go together.

Must haves (IMO):
Surge Protector
Storage Box
A/C - digital thermostat (I think the digital stat is now std.)
Switch for inside light. Keeps from walking into blackness to find the switch.
Insulation and insul. windows - keeps the heat and cold out that you don't want.

We love our captain's lights. We have 'em in all four corners. I posted a couple of photos on our thread.

If we had a WD Hitch, my back tells me we'd want that electric tongue jack. The last leveling of my 17 took 59 revolutions of the handle.

The aluminum rims look great (and they won't rust).

We find that the driver's side exterior light is only used when we're hooking up or unhooking utilities, so the little switch on the light housing is perfect.
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:17 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
If you are going to get the counter extensions but not have them installed, do you need to order reinforced walls in likely spots?
Yes I do.

dfandrews
We have a nice portable solar we have used for a few years and will just go with that for now. Digital stat is standard. We will get a WDH so that's why the power jack.


Thanks!
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:42 PM   #23
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Not necessary to reinforce walls for counter extensions. We have three, one installed at pick-up, the others at the dinette.
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Old 10-30-2016, 12:25 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by dfandrews View Post
Dual 6 volt batteries, but no solar. Hmmm. I would think they go together.
Why? If one battery does not store quite enough energy to make it from one serviced site (or home, or driving time with charge from the tug) to the next, two batteries can be the solution. In this case, extra battery capacity and solar power can be alternatives, not just complements.
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Old 10-30-2016, 08:31 AM   #25
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Welcome EggCamper!!!
Nice to see another Middle TN Escape owner so near. Got ours delivered in May and have been out often this summer and fall. Hopefully, your wait will go by quickly and you will have your new Escape for many yrs. to come.
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:19 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Why? If one battery does not store quite enough energy to make it from one serviced site (or home, or driving time with charge from the tug) to the next, two batteries can be the solution. In this case, extra battery capacity and solar power can be alternatives, not just complements.
Good point, Brian. I think (there's my problem - thinking) the comment was the result of my meandering mind, because we just love the performance of the solar. We're totally locked in to the efficacy of solar; we've got it on our home, and each year we closely approach net-zero use.
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Old 10-30-2016, 12:12 PM   #27
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I'm working on my build sheet as well. Is a light switch in the doorway, standard or an option? (17b)
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Old 10-30-2016, 01:10 PM   #28
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I was told the exterior switch was standard and the interior switch was not.
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Old 10-30-2016, 09:28 PM   #29
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... The only thing I would suggest is - the Aluminum rim package is a lot of $ for what some say is only a visual gain
If you spend any time camping near the ocean with crashing waves and saltwater mist in the air, anything that won't rust is a plus for maintaining long term function and appearance. Plus, they are good quality rims for only about $70 bucks each (with the current exchange rate around 0.75). That was just too tempting for us to pass up....
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:08 PM   #30
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I'm working on my build sheet as well. Is a light switch in the doorway, standard or an option? (17b)
Another Iowa person! Switches inside can be added as an option and people have had all kinds of set-ups for those. We should have added one to turn on a light inside the trailer but we turn on the light over the sink instead.

Our inside switches are all for our exterior lights. Three switches for each of three lights, two of which we had added. A fourth light is one of the standard two and has only the switch on the light, which is fine since we use it when out there for turning on the water heater or something else on that side.

So we have switches for the porch (door) light and for two others on the front and back of the trailer.
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:49 PM   #31
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Another Iowa person!
I'm an "Iowa person" too - just happen to live in Texas now!
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:57 AM   #32
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We're totally locked in to the efficacy of solar...
Solar is definitely appealling, especially for RV power.
Although it can extend camping time with any battery, pairing it with high battery capacity makes solar much more practical for camping off-grid with variable sun conditions... that's the complementary setup.
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:59 AM   #33
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If you drive on gravel roads I highly recommend the aluminum rims. My old trailer had painted rims and each spring I would spend hours cleaning the rust off the chipped areas where stones had hit. Two camping seasons on, the aluminum rims still look like new and are far, far easier to maintain.
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:53 PM   #34
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Two camping seasons on, the aluminum rims still look like new and are far, far easier to maintain.
Yes, and the most important thing: the bling factor.
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:17 PM   #35
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I have to keep the aluminum rims so I can look good.
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:51 PM   #36
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After having steel rims on the last trailer I couldn't wait to get the aluminum. However I just noticed a little corrosion (filiform?) starting on the aluminum rims, around the center cap. Guess they all have their problems. These sure do look a lot better.
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:57 PM   #37
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Is there anything I can do to the painted rims to reduce the chips and rust? Wax? Another layer of some kind of paint? Don't want the extra cost of aluminum rims, don't want the chore of chips and rust.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:02 PM   #38
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Is there anything I can do to the painted rims to reduce the chips and rust? Wax? Another layer of some kind of paint? Don't want the extra cost of aluminum rims, don't want the chore of chips and rust.
The wheels are steel, and any steel wheel will eventually be susceptible to rust. Maintenance of the wheels (touch up paint, etc) is just a part of that, but it's not something you have to do frequently.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:03 PM   #39
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I take it that anyone who wants aluminum rims could just look at them all over and get what they want. Don't know if that would cost more.
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:22 AM   #40
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These are eight year old steel rims.
I suppose I could do something about the minor rust, but, I won't.
I've never actually scrubbed the wheels. I just spray them with a garden hose.
Either way, you do have to maintain wheels for appearance.
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