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Old 12-09-2020, 06:31 PM   #41
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A summer of Internet from our Escape 21NE

We are doing more or less just what you are thinking about. We picked up our Escape 21NE this spring and have put 65 nights in it this spring-summer-fall mixing work and play. Both of us have been remote workers for about the past 9 years and use the internet for our work, Our Escape 21 came with the cable tv ready package with the coax fitting outside and inside, plus a 110 plug where the TV was suppose to plug in. I just used that to hook the We Boost antennas up to. There is a difference in the size of the coax used by the Cable TV and the We Boost but they make an easy conversion fitting. I put the booster up when we stop if the signal is less than 3 bars. The booster gives gets us from one bar to two bars or in cases where we have varying signal strength it holds it at the higher strength. It does not work wonders all the time, but it does help. I also have the WiFi in our 2020 Ram tow vehicle that uses ATT. I did not find it useful at all. It basically gives the same connection strength that our iPhones do. Overall it has worked well to use our iPhones as hotspots. Only once on the Oregon coast did we have to drive the truck to find a signal to make a video meeting.
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Old 12-09-2020, 07:54 PM   #42
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Thank you very much!
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Old 12-10-2020, 05:20 PM   #43
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We ended up getting a Weboost Drive Sleek 4G booster earlier this year mostly because we would sometimes have a little bit of coverage on T-Mobile networks at some locations, but it would drop to zero on our phones once we went inside the Scamp which is enclosed in foil lined walls that are great at blocking signals. It worked well in thos situations.

This year we have a new Escape, and so there's no foil blocking the walls, but at one campground in Custer state park, we had no T-Mobile signal outside on the ground. Decided to raise our Weboost OTR antenna, ran the cable through the rear hatch (antenna pole was set up on the rear hitch on the camper) and got a usable T-Mobile signal so we could check our emails, make plans for each days travel, and upload photos to Facebook. Wasn't a great signal, but a usable one.

We have a T-Mobile hotspot that I use in the sleek cradle, and that adds $10 per month to our plan, but allows both of us to use the hotspot signal.

Perhaps just a high mounted antenna would work, but neither our hotspot nor phones have an input for an antenna.

I like the price of T-Mobile, and also that it gets free data in Canada and Overseas on our USA based senior plan.
We got the TV antenna connection on our Escape (but no TV antenna) so I'll be interested in finding out more about those adapters that will allow connecting the Weboost connectors to the TV input.
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Old 12-10-2020, 06:11 PM   #44
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Thank you for sharing your experience, Radar1. Did you installation it yourself?
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Old 12-10-2020, 06:57 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by kavm View Post
Thank you for sharing your experience, Radar1. Did you installation it yourself?
Yes, I used a clamp to mount it to an adjustable hitch that I bought with me in case I needed it for the Escape pickup in Montana. Didn't need it for the Escape but it was a perfect holder for my telescoping pole with the OTR antenna mounted on top, which I placed in the receiver on the back of the Escape. I had an old CB radio antenna quick connect that allows me to take the OTR antenna off the extendable pole so the OTR antenna and telescoping pole fit through the hatch in the rear of our Escape 19 for storage. I ran all the cables through the hatch but I'll want to find a better way to run them in the future, which is where the TV cable input will come in handy.
I don't have any good pictures of the antenna but here is one photo of it in use in SD.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Weboost at Custer state park.jpg (200.9 KB, 27 views)
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Old 12-10-2020, 07:20 PM   #46
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Consider mounting amp under passenger side rear dinette bench front wall towards the rear. Then you can drill a hole in the floor for the antenna wire. I bought a second sewer hose carrier on Amazon and that is where the OTR antenna rides.
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Old 12-10-2020, 07:27 PM   #47
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Thank you! Great help. Two questions:
  • Are the booster and interior antenna connected by wire or communicate wirelessly?
  • In a 5.0, where would you put the external antenna, booster and internal antenna?
Thank you! Great ideas! FYI - ETI does offer to run the wire for the antenna wire (I believe through the refrigerator vent).
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Old 12-10-2020, 08:15 PM   #48
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All antennas have wires. In the 5.0 it is the same as the 21 we have. The antenna through the fridge was done for the old Trucker antenna. Personally don't see any advantage for the OTR(which is arguably the best out there today) as it would be too tall permanently mounted.
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Old 12-10-2020, 10:20 PM   #49
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I apologize but feel somewhat obtuse and could use some advice. After back and forth multiple times, my wife and I would like to add WeBoost Connect RV 65 as best possible internet access is an important consideration for work related reasons.

First - here is what ETI says: All ETI will do is pre-wire for a booster. You would need to have an understanding of the booster you were planning on installing aftermarket and let me know where you would want the cables run from and to. If the cables required are RG6 then ETI can provide those. If the cables are anything other than RG6 they would be customer provided. If you are wanting exterior access to the cables the most common location for a roof mount antenna is for ETI to have one end of the cables coiled in the roof top fridge vent for access aftermarket. If you are planning on doing a booster mast off the rear bumper then often customers will have us either coil the cable in the passenger side dinette bench seat so they can access it through the optional access hatch if they add one OR in either dinette bench seat and ask us to install an electrical hatch so they can pull the cable through that.

I could use some advice/recommendations on:
  • External antenna:
    • Location: Rear bumper? Side? ETI said something about the roof mount as well. But, I am guessing that a mount off the rear of the trailer is our best bet. Correct?
    • Wiring: It needs to be wired to the booster/amp. ETI is willing to provide: "cable in the passenger side dinette bench seat and access it through the optional access hatch if we add one OR dinette bench seat and ask ETI to install an electrical hatch and pull the cable through that[/I]." Which of the two hatches is the better option?
  • Booster/Amp:
    • Location: Under passenger side rear dinette bench front wall towards the rear. Is that where the booster will go?
    • Power: Ask ETI for a power outlet near that point
    • Wiring: Cable in the passenger side dinette bench seat and access it through the optional access hatch if we add one OR dinette bench seat and ask ETI to install an electrical hatch and pull the cable through that[/I]."
  • Internal antenna:
    • Location: I am not clear where this goes. If one is trying to maximize the distance from the external antenna - it'd need to go to the bed area at the other end of the trailer. Is that right?
    • Wiring: The booster needs to be wired to the internal antenna. So, where is this wire running across the length of the camper? This is where I am most confused.
I am sorry for being dense about this but I would like to have a clearer idea of how it will work.
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Old 12-10-2020, 10:33 PM   #50
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With so much time it is easy to overthink details. Your best bet is to get the Drive Reach with OTR and candy bar interior antenna. That only needs to be six feet away from outside antenna, which means it can be set on the dinette table. We run it from the amp under the dinette and hang it on one of the rear blind anchors when not in use. Call Randy- he was my rep when I had cellphone stores and sold Wilson Amps.
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Old 12-10-2020, 11:06 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavm View Post
...

  • Internal antenna:
    • Location: I am not clear where this goes. If one is trying to maximize the distance from the external antenna - it'd need to go to the bed area at the other end of the trailer. Is that right?
...
A general rule-of-thumb when separating antennas to prevent mutual interference is try for maximum vertical separation rather than horizontal. That is because most antennas are designed to maximize horizontal gain (to reach that distant cell tower). The area under the antenna is, or should be, dead. Think of a light house - the beam is most useful when it goes miles, whereas there is usually nothing of interest directly below the tower.
--
Alan
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Old 12-11-2020, 06:43 AM   #52
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@Rossue, @AlanMalk - Thank you very much! That is very helpful.

I will reach out to Randy today if I have time or next week.
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Old 12-11-2020, 09:36 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavm View Post
I apologize but feel somewhat obtuse and could use some advice. After back and forth multiple times, my wife and I would like to add WeBoost Connect RV 65 as best possible internet access is an important consideration for work related reasons.

First - here is what ETI says: All ETI will do is pre-wire for a booster. You would need to have an understanding of the booster you were planning on installing aftermarket and let me know where you would want the cables run from and to. If the cables required are RG6 then ETI can provide those. If the cables are anything other than RG6 they would be customer provided. If you are wanting exterior access to the cables the most common location for a roof mount antenna is for ETI to have one end of the cables coiled in the roof top fridge vent for access aftermarket. If you are planning on doing a booster mast off the rear bumper then often customers will have us either coil the cable in the passenger side dinette bench seat so they can access it through the optional access hatch if they add one OR in either dinette bench seat and ask us to install an electrical hatch so they can pull the cable through that.

I could use some advice/recommendations on:
  • External antenna:
    • Location: Rear bumper? Side? ETI said something about the roof mount as well. But, I am guessing that a mount off the rear of the trailer is our best bet. Correct?
    • Wiring: It needs to be wired to the booster/amp. ETI is willing to provide: "cable in the passenger side dinette bench seat and access it through the optional access hatch if we add one OR dinette bench seat and ask ETI to install an electrical hatch and pull the cable through that[/I]." Which of the two hatches is the better option?
  • Booster/Amp:
    • Location: Under passenger side rear dinette bench front wall towards the rear. Is that where the booster will go?
    • Power: Ask ETI for a power outlet near that point
    • Wiring: Cable in the passenger side dinette bench seat and access it through the optional access hatch if we add one OR dinette bench seat and ask ETI to install an electrical hatch and pull the cable through that[/I]."
  • Internal antenna:
    • Location: I am not clear where this goes. If one is trying to maximize the distance from the external antenna - it'd need to go to the bed area at the other end of the trailer. Is that right?
    • Wiring: The booster needs to be wired to the internal antenna. So, where is this wire running across the length of the camper? This is where I am most confused.
I am sorry for being dense about this but I would like to have a clearer idea of how it will work.

We use a Weboost 65 with out 21C when we need it - which is not a lot. We're full timing in our Escape and absolutely need internet connection to work.



External Antenna: Kind of doesn't matter. You will have to determine where to set up the antenna. All you need ETI to do is install a coax connector to hook up the cable from the antenna to your Escape. The cables Weboost send are quite lengthy. The coax connector will connect to where ever you ask them to put it in the inside.



Amp/Booster: getting it install under the seat would work well IMO. If you're reasonably handy with electrical, Weboost does include a 12v hardwiring adapter in the kit. Note the 12v adapter is just ends in two wires and not the usual 12v accessory plug. You'll want to be able to access the amp/booster to plug/unplug it.



Internal Antenna: I've found the absolute best results come from having your cellular device as close to the internal antenna as possible. That's just my experience. And I mean literally placing my iPhone on top of the antenna. You'll be able to run coax cable from the internal antenna to the amp, so you'll be able to play with the location. I wouldn't worry about this too much until you have your trailer.



PM me if you have any questions you want to ask too.
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Old 12-11-2020, 09:47 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alanmalk View Post
A general rule-of-thumb when separating antennas to prevent mutual interference is try for maximum vertical separation rather than horizontal. That is because most antennas are designed to maximize horizontal gain (to reach that distant cell tower). The area under the antenna is, or should be, dead. Think of a light house - the beam is most useful when it goes miles, whereas there is usually nothing of interest directly below the tower.
--
Alan
^This^

For many years I've relied on cellular data as my sole internet connection at my rural home in oak and elm woodlands where the only other broadband alternative is satellite internet. I have a WeBoost setup with booster, outdoor YAGI directional antenna aimed at the nearest (quite distant) cell tower, and indoor 'panel' antenna broadcasting the boosted signal in the house. That's identical to this WeBoost Connect RV65 system.

The booster and inside panel antenna are mounted indoors approximately 15 vertical feet directly below the outside pole-mounted YAGI antenna which of necessity is aimed directly in-line with the in-house panel antenna. No interference problems whatsoever, the system works great, increases the in-house signal from ~30 dBm (no useable phone or internet in the house) to ~95dBm (great phone and internet throughout the house). I suffer none of the interruptions / slowdowns that my few neighbors using satellite internet suffer with bad weather.

Aside, I have my iPhone on an AT&T voice + unlimited text + 1.75GB/month data plan; my internet (dedicated computer hotspot) is on a separate AT&T Data-Only plan, 100GB/month with no throttling ever for that 100GB. I don't believe either of those plans has been offered by AT&T for many years but they've long 'grandfathered' them no problem. My total AT&T bill for everything including all taxes and fees is $153.26 every month, never changes, and it meets my needs just fine. YMMV.
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Old 12-11-2020, 02:16 PM   #55
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Many many thanks! It is very helpful.
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