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Old 07-15-2014, 11:30 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Correct, you now have the controls mounted on the a/c in the ceiling.
And on the new units the controls are now on the bottom. This takes away a little more head room. I did add an after market digital thermostat for the heater. It was a simple two wire replacement. I ordered a LUX from Amazon.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:44 AM   #22
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Digital Thermostat

This is what I saw at ETI 6/14...the latest version when no digital thermostat is ordered for $150.00
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:44 AM   #23
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Hi: Rossue... We got no digi therm and got a much better looking A/C than that one. It's the standard one installed in the 5.0TA... and headroom is certainly no issue even with the controls on the bottom of it. Now I have trouble reaching the push button on the MaxxFan. This 5.0TA is GREAT Alf
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:02 AM   #24
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I got A/C and the digital thermostat too. Been very happy with it. Controls the furnace also.
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:06 AM   #25
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I'm sure there are plenty of "build" pictures showing the a/c with or without the controls.
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:11 AM   #26
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Tammy told us the above shown unit is what they are now using instead of the Polar Cub. At least the moulding is identical-not positive on knob position. I don't care any more about the digital thermostat- am seeing units with handheld remote w/digital thermostats like I have on my gas fireplace.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:10 PM   #27
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Can someone post a picture of the inside unit with digital thermostat that is on the TA.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:40 PM   #28
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I borrowed Jim's picture...
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:42 PM   #29
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thermostat as Vicky shows, here's the unit itself.
Attached Thumbnails
ac1.jpg   ac2.jpg  
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:21 PM   #30
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thermostat as Vicky shows, here's the unit itself.
Thanks for the pictures!
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:57 PM   #31
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thermostat as Vicky shows, here's the unit itself.
Bob have you tried running your air conditioner with a Honda 2000 generator?

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Old 07-16-2014, 04:12 PM   #32
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One can easily install a digital unit for the furnace only after market, it is only a 3 wire set up. But like Glenn said, you have to have the roof reinforced via a a/c shroud. For someone living in the lower 48, it is almost mandatory to have a/c, if you are above the border then I can understand.
Everyone has their own opinion. We have about 100 nights in the 17B since September. Have hardly even used the MaxxFan. We did in May in Death Valley, but we still wouldn't have wanted to be near all the big rigs in a parking lot environment to have hookups. needed for AC. No Generator for us either. Everybody is different. We don't camp in the summer, often camp above 4,000' and don't have the humidity to deal with.

In our part of the world our feedback from folks is using their AC is a blue moon event.

BTW- Escape updated the build list to show "AC Ready-Standard Feature".
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Old 07-16-2014, 05:14 PM   #33
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Bob have you tried running your air conditioner with a Honda 2000 generator?

Doug
Sure did. When the compressor kicks in you can hear it bog down for a couple seconds then even out. Worked fine, I did have to put the surge protector in bypass, that or make a Neutral ground plug.
Could not use Eco mode.
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Old 12-05-2014, 11:39 AM   #34
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I am about to install a digital thermostat... strictly for the furnace, since I do not have AC. Bought a White-Rogers 1E78 non-programmable on EBay. It is 2-wire, Millivolt compatible.

In the wall a white wire and a green wire served the factory install. White being HOT, green being NEUTRAL, the instructions indicate White goes to RH, green goes to W.
Have no idea if the red jumper line is relevant so am not touching it.

Do I have this right?
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:11 PM   #35
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Myron,
Re: the thermostat: RH is indeed "heating-Hot", and White (W) is the contact for Heating. The jumper in the subbase is between RH and RC ( "cooling-Hot ), in case a heating-cooling thermostat were to be used on the subbase instead.
For you other experimenters, The "Y" screw (Yellow), (next row of screws down) is the cooling contact, and "G" screw (Green) is fan (in case you want the AC fan without cooling).

Regarding the white and green out of the wall, don't know. For heating only it shouldn't make a difference.
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:35 PM   #36
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We just installed a very similar White Rogers 1E78 (heat only) thermostat
White-Rodgers 1E78-140 Emerson 70 Series Single Stage Non-Programmable Heat Only Thermostat - Programmable Household Thermostats - Amazon.com
in our 5.0 last week.
We wired the White to W and Green to RH. We did NOT clip the red jumper because the manual said clipping the jumper would produce a longer heating cycle which is normally for hot water or steam systems.

It seems to cycle fine testing in the driveway....


Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
I am about to install a digital thermostat... strictly for the furnace, since I do not have AC. Bought a White-Rogers 1E78 non-programmable on EBay. It is 2-wire, Millivolt compatible.

In the wall a white wire and a green wire served the factory install. White being HOT, green being NEUTRAL, the instructions indicate White goes to RH, green goes to W.
Have no idea if the red jumper line is relevant so am not touching it.

Do I have this right?
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:38 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
I am about to install a digital thermostat... strictly for the furnace, since I do not have AC. Bought a White-Rogers 1E78 non-programmable on EBay. It is 2-wire, Millivolt compatible.

In the wall a white wire and a green wire served the factory install. White being HOT, green being NEUTRAL, the instructions indicate White goes to RH, green goes to W.
Have no idea if the red jumper line is relevant so am not touching it.

Do I have this right?
You have conflicting wiring color indications between your text and your photo....
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Old 12-05-2014, 05:02 PM   #38
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Thanks. Always good to ask, because seems to me here the mfg wiring instructions say... Hot (white?) goes to RH, Neutral to W. So, then, Green is Hot.
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Old 12-05-2014, 05:16 PM   #39
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It doesn't matter - 1 wire to RH, 1 to W. All you are doing is making/breaking the circuit.

Just don't connect anything to the "C" (common) terminal. That would provide 24V power (which Escapes don't have) to run a backlight on the thermostat.
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:06 PM   #40
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"...All you are doing is making/breaking the circuit."

Now that you mention it, and now that I think of it, Doug, you made perfect sense. Job done; nice to be digital. Pizza tonite!
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