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Old 06-18-2017, 08:18 AM   #1
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Dry Camping Advice

Will be doing our first three night dry camping in our 2017 19' Escape. We have the solar panels, two batteries and the whole house inverter. We pretty much have the water figured out except for the water heater. What do we need to do to switch it to propane? How much time will we be able to use the microwave? Can we use the electric awning? What happens if it rains the whole time? Any helpful thoughts are appreciated.
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Old 06-18-2017, 08:27 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J&G View Post
Will be doing our first three night dry camping in our 2017 19' Escape. We have the solar panels, two batteries and the whole house inverter. We pretty much have the water figured out except for the water heater. What do we need to do to switch it to propane? How much time will we be able to use the microwave? Can we use the electric awning? What happens if it rains the whole time? Any helpful thoughts are appreciated.
The water heater controls for propane are on the control panel, switch in on and you will have hot water. I don't have a microwave so can't answer that one, but folks do seem to use them for short periods, just monitor your battery voltage. No problem using the electric awning. If it tends to be raining a lot, we have been bringing the awning in to about 3-4 feet out, where it sheds water good, and provides us with a bit of shelter upon entering.
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Old 06-18-2017, 08:54 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J&G View Post
Will be doing our first three night dry camping in our 2017 19' Escape. We have the solar panels, two batteries and the whole house inverter. We pretty much have the water figured out except for the water heater. What do we need to do to switch it to propane? How much time will we be able to use the microwave? Can we use the electric awning? What happens if it rains the whole time? Any helpful thoughts are appreciated.
Hi: J&G... If it rains the whole time... you can't call it "Dry camping". Boone docking maybe? Alf
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Old 06-18-2017, 09:35 AM   #4
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The awning is 12v as is most of the items in your trailer, either 12v or propane. The a/c needs 120v but with the inverter your microwave is good to go. Water heater and furnace is propane and 12v. All your lights are 12v, as is your water pump. So with solar you should be good for dry camping.
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Old 06-18-2017, 09:41 AM   #5
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John, watch your power consumption, particularly with items like a microwave oven. We much prefer to use a grill or the cooktop for cooking with no hookups. Can cookers, solar ovens and other cooking methods that don't require power are also good options for boondockers. The solar will do a good job of replacing what you use, and since it's coming into summer, you won't have to worry about the furnace taking any juice either.

The 2 way hot water heater is a propane heater with an electric option. So, you just turn off the electric switch inside the access hatch on the outside of the trailer, and use just the interior switch to heat water.

Provided you don't try to run every electrical item alot, you'll find your solar and dual 6v batteries will keep you in good stead. If it 'rains the whole time you're there', the solar output will be cut dramatically, but you'll still produce some power. Remember, these are photovoltaic cells, meaning they react to light. Even when it's raining, there's still some light. If you intend to do alot of dry camping in the future, I would recommend a more advanced battery monitor, something like a Victron. They are relatively easy to install, and will give you a much better reading on what you've used, and what you have left.

There's nothing like experience though to give you a feel for how much power you're using and how to manage it. Just go boondock - and have fun!

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Old 06-18-2017, 12:49 PM   #6
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We have pretty much the same set-up in our 21.
One clarification on the electric/propane water heater. The electric on/off switch on ours is very hard to see and is accessed outside the trailer after opening the panel. I'm fairly certain it will not try to use power from your inverter, so you can just proceed to use your inside propane on/off switch when dry camping as though you didn't have an electric option on your water heater. In other words, there's no need to ever turn off the electic switch, since it's not able to use 12volt or inverter 120volt power. The water heater electric element will use power when connected to a post, so be aware of it taking considerable power for a few minutes when first connecting. This would only be a concern if you want to immediately put on the air conditioning and the fridge in the first few minutes when the water heater is using some of the campground's power.
The battery charger/converter is also a short term energy hog when first connecting up to campground power, so be aware of that. It usually gets its charge over in a few minutes.

When using the microwave, don't be alarmed when you look at the power gauge while the microwave is running. It will show a sharp drop in battery percentage, but that rebounds when the microwave turns off. We use the microwave less at night when we will not be getting more solar, but as much as we like during daylight, even shade or rain.
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Old 06-20-2017, 06:07 PM   #7
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Thank you, everyone. We hit the road tomorrow. Excited!
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Old 06-20-2017, 07:36 PM   #8
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J&G, have a great first time out! Please make sure your refrigerator is on propane, not 12 volts and you will be fine. BTW, I've never run my heater on electric so I never worry about change-overs. Even when it is below freezing at night a propane tank lasts us over a week and most all of our cooking is on the barbecue or stove outside. We want to see pics when you get back! Have fun!
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:28 PM   #9
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I was amazed at how well our 160W solar worked on our first boondock to redwood country in Northern California at Jedidiah Smith campground. Although totally surrounded by 100-200 ft redwood trees at our campsite with no direct sunlight, it would recharge our single group 29 battery in 2-3 hours the next day after a discharge of 20-25%. We used our television, lights, cellphone booster, and 2 laptops as usual and made no effort to conserve as I had brought our generator along "just in case." Never needed it over a 4 day period.
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:46 PM   #10
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Well, all packed and ready to pull out in the morning. Plugged in early today at the house to get the refrigerator cold, but it is stuck at 50 degrees after running nonstop for 14 hours. (It never stops running.) Ice is forming along the freezer door, but the refrigerator won't get cold. We have the 2017 19' Escape. Worried that our first boondocking trip will be perishable foodless. Any ideas??
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Old 06-20-2017, 09:02 PM   #11
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You can just about get 3 days out of a good cooler.

Nothing wrong with having a plan B
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Old 06-20-2017, 09:27 PM   #12
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...it is stuck at 50 degrees after running nonstop for 14 hours...
I have had bad thermometers that were completely worthless as well as a few that were off by many degrees. Since ice is forming around the freezer, be sure your thermometer is good.

And I agree with padlin, Plan B with coolers is not a bad solution. Don't let a refer problem stop you...just go! Deal with it when you get back. People have been camping with coolers for eons.

Edited: I also have noted that the placement of the thermometer is critical. When I place it in the door, it can read as high as 45 degrees but when I move it to the interior of the refer, everything's fine.
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Old 06-20-2017, 09:33 PM   #13
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Well, all packed and ready to pull out in the morning. Plugged in early today at the house to get the refrigerator cold, but it is stuck at 50 degrees after running nonstop for 14 hours. (It never stops running.) Ice is forming along the freezer door, but the refrigerator won't get cold. We have the 2017 19' Escape. Worried that our first boondocking trip will be perishable foodless. Any ideas??
Switch it over to propane and see how it performs - mine does better on propane than electric, and that's what you'll be running on anyway. You can get a week or more out of each tank.
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Old 06-20-2017, 09:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J&G View Post
Well, all packed and ready to pull out in the morning. Plugged in early today at the house to get the refrigerator cold, but it is stuck at 50 degrees after running nonstop for 14 hours. (It never stops running.) Ice is forming along the freezer door, but the refrigerator won't get cold. We have the 2017 19' Escape. Worried that our first boondocking trip will be perishable foodless. Any ideas??
Did you try plugging in something else at the same outlet to make certain it works? Sorry, have to ask the obvious which many people miss. Checked and reset setting?
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Old 06-20-2017, 09:44 PM   #15
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One more thing...thermometer placement is critical. When I've put mine in the refer door, I can get readings as high as 45 degrees but when I move it to the refer interior, everything is normal (below 35 degrees).
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Old 06-20-2017, 10:03 PM   #16
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Cooler at the least. Block ice if you can get it. Dry ice for a booster.
Frozen food wrapped in newspapers with zip lock covers. Switch over to propane,. Make sure the door is tightly closed. If not too remote might have to go to the store a couple times. Hope this helps get you going at least for a few days.
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Old 06-20-2017, 10:12 PM   #17
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I've found it can take a long time to get an empty fridge cold. I take a LOT of frozen blue ices out into it when I first turn it on and it gets cold quite quickly then. As others have already said, I'd also recommend trying another thermometer if you have one.
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Old 06-21-2017, 06:56 AM   #18
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Among other things suggested, I like to make quite a few small bags of ice cubes to pack in the freezer, It helps get things cool quickly and when I want to make a glass of tea, I just grab one bag out of the refrig and it is perfect for just one glass and no need to bother with ice-cube trays.
I also sometimes pack a large bag of ice in the freezer or the blue frozen things in freezer or refrig to start the cooling. Frozen bottles of water in the refrig help also and as it thaws it gives you some refreshing cold water to drink.
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Old 06-21-2017, 12:12 PM   #19
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I had a big plastic container for keeping cold water in the refrigerator and it cracked over winter from the freezing temperatures when empty. Frozen plastic bottles could crack and leak all over. That was a new container I had and not one for temporary use and it was big. Would have had a lot of water around! A little bottle, not so much.
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Old 06-21-2017, 06:18 PM   #20
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Back in the day of car-camping (cooler, no fridge) would freeze milk, cheese, juice, sauces...anything freezable, over night,before heading out. Throw them in the cooler next morning, and head out. Sounds like might be worth doing the same with the fridge?
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