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Old 05-26-2017, 04:12 PM   #21
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I don't know how many people have had their water pressure regulators go bad but we are on the third or fourth. And, yes, you definitely need one. I might as well go out and buy another regulator now.

What happened when it went bad? Did it clog or something different?
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Old 05-26-2017, 04:25 PM   #22
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What happened when it went bad? Did it clog or something different?
I think it just stopped registering numbers maybe but don't know. Neither of us could get a thing out of it. Another one also, I believe.
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Old 05-26-2017, 04:27 PM   #23
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Yes, not necessary to put packs or liquid chemicals in the toilet but many do. What IS necessary is to keep a good amount of water in the black tank at all times (except when winterized.) So when dumping, then add water. That helps prevent problems.
When we wont be using the Escape for months at a time... I dump the black, then rinse very well, and leave empty.

before we leave on next camping trip i'll add a good amount of water, and a less-smell pack, so any "deposits" wont stick to the bottom of the tank.

How would leaving the black empty be a bad thing?

I have never heard that it is necessary to keep a good amount of water in the black tank at all times - ?

I'm just curious, and eager to learn.

thanks.

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Old 05-26-2017, 04:30 PM   #24
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Except when winterized --- or in storage for a long period as you do --- same thing. Should be no problem then hopefully, but if no low temps then maybe you can leave some water just to make certain. If dumping for storage, you might want to refill and dump again, just trying to make certain that you are clearing the tank.

This is one of the big tips that full-timers will give you: Keep water in that tank! Yes, for the reason you mention.

You break down the contents with water.

And when at a campground, do not hook up to the sewer and have the valve pulled and leave it pulled for days
(as some do. ) Only dump once in a while. Use plenty of water with the toilet.

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Originally Posted by Losangeles View Post

before we leave on next camping trip i'll add a good amount of water, and a less-smell pack, so any "deposits" wont stick to the bottom of the tank.

How would leaving the black empty be a bad thing?

I have never heard that it is necessary to keep a good amount of water in the black tank at all times - ?
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Old 05-26-2017, 04:38 PM   #25
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Jim, you don't need to add anything to your black tank. It's an option. I gave up on it a few years back and haven't noticed anything different. Crack a window in some other part of the trailer, use the bath fan, and it'll all be good
As one who has tent camped in NP campgrounds with a lot of trailers and RVs I really disagree with the sentiment that you don't need to put anything in your black and grey tanks. While you may not smell it inside your trailer you are still odiferating the campground area, and if your site is in a lower spot but there are other loops at slightly higher elevations you are still passing your odors on to others. Also, at the microbial level every time you dump your tanks, sewer gasses from the system travel up the slinky into your tanks and colonize them giving you the benefit of everyones' bacteria, good and bad. Granted, that bacteria will help digest the goo but if you are using a microbial product which is developed to kill off the smelly, disease causing bacteria, viruses and mold while still dissolving the goo your tanks and trailer will still be healthier. And, quoting Johnny Bench, "You won't stink."
Also, an empty tank isn't really empty as there is still some water, mold, slime and other stuff which is being digested by all the bacteria. Even if you put a sanitizing chemical in there it won't kill everything and will be overcome by nature after a week or two. Much better to work with a product designed to kill off the harmful microbes while keeping the good ones working. Keeping some water in the tank will work the same way a septic system or the city treatment does, over time the water and inside of the tank will get cleaner. It all works very well if you are adding the good microbes to your tank, kind of like making beer, sauerkraut or kombucha tea.
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Old 05-26-2017, 06:29 PM   #26
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This thread is proof that you'll get lots of different answers to the same question. As some others have pointed out, the better way to drain the fresh water is by opening the tap and the valve on the fresh water tank.

And yes, we dump the black tank first and then the gray, since the gray water helps rinse out the sewer hose.

As for the hot water heater, we are among those who empty and rinse it whenever we are going to store the trailer for more than a week or two. Relieve the pressure by lifting the pressure relief valve as Dave suggested, and to fully drain it, pull the anode. Your camping kit should contain a large socket that fits the anode plug, and some Teflon tape for reinstalling it. We have a wand that we attach to a garden hose and it does a super job of blasting out the scale buildup in the tank. Even after using the tank for only a week or so, visible chunks of calcium can be seen exiting the drain when we clean it.

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Old 05-26-2017, 06:37 PM   #27
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To me, it's so hard to get that anode rod started back in, I don't want to do it anymore than I have to.
If you are not using a stack of quarters inside the socket to put pressure directly on the head of the anode bolt, give it a try. Makes it easy to start.
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Old 05-26-2017, 07:11 PM   #28
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To me, it's so hard to get that anode rod started back in, I don't want to do it anymore than I have to.
It is, and to me, it is a matter of getting it lined up right. You have to really look down there closely to see exactly how to get it in straight. And have new Teflon tape on it.
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Old 05-26-2017, 11:34 PM   #29
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While you may not smell it inside your trailer you are still odiferating the campground area, and if your site is in a lower spot but there are other loops at slightly higher elevations you are still passing your odors on to others.
Steve, you make a pretty good point there. That gas all blows out the top of the plumbing vent. Maybe because we are always camping along the windy coast we've never noticed....or perhaps we've got some olfactory deficit I'll reconsider.
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Old 05-27-2017, 12:43 AM   #30
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Do you carry a spare in case the need arises when camping?
I've had water pressure regulators fail, and have a spare or two, but haven't needed a spare (or had to wonder if it was working) since I switched to an adjustable pressure regulator with a gauge.
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Old 05-27-2017, 12:47 AM   #31
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What happened when it went bad? Did it clog or something different?
I've had them oscillate (judder, make noise), and just impede flow excessively. One thing that bothers me is that if a regulator without a gauge fails open - so it allows excessive pressure - it might not be noticed. That could happen with a gauge, but it's easy to check the gauge each time it is hooked up.
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Old 05-27-2017, 01:18 AM   #32
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I've had water pressure regulators fail, and have a spare or two, but haven't needed a spare (or had to wonder if it was working) since I switched to an adjustable pressure regulator with a gauge.
That is what we had in the first place. Stopped working.
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Old 05-27-2017, 10:13 AM   #33
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That is what we had in the first place. Stopped working.
Can that be caused by hard water deposits? Should a sediment filter be installed before the pressure reducer?
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Old 05-27-2017, 03:44 PM   #34
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Can that be caused by hard water deposits? Should a sediment filter be installed before the pressure reducer?
Don't know what all can go wrong with these. Sounds possible.
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Old 05-27-2017, 03:52 PM   #35
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Can that be caused by hard water deposits? Should a sediment filter be installed before the pressure reducer?
I can tell you one mode of failure for the gauge - freezing. One 20°F night did it in.
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