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Old 05-26-2017, 11:50 AM   #1
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Escape 19 Dumping Questions

Next month will be our maiden voyage with our 2011 Escape 19 (5 days of dry camping). On go-back-home day, is this the right protocol for dumping the black and grey tanks:

1. Drain the remaining water from the fresh water tank into the grey water tank by turning on both the hot and cold water faucets. By turning on the hot water faucet will this empty out the water in the hot water heater?

2. Empty the black tank first.

3. Empty the grey water tank last.

4. Do I need to add some sort of chemical/water solution (i.e...tank deodorizer) to the black tank through the toilet? Any recommendations?

If this is not correct or if I am missing something, could someone please help this novice out?

Thanks in advance,

Jim
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Old 05-26-2017, 12:26 PM   #2
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I wouldn't recommend running the faucets to empty the fresh tank. Lot's of unnecessary load on the pump.
Both the fresh tank and the water heater should be emptied by using the valve on the fresh tank and the plug on the water heater. If you have a dual water heater, make sure the electric switch is off before emptying. Emptying the water heater by the plug will help flush any mineral build up that wouldn't happen otherwise and you can inspect your anode rod.
Yes, I always add about a gallon of water and a deodorant pack after dump to the black.
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Old 05-26-2017, 12:57 PM   #3
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Even though your fresh water tank is empty, there's still water in the hot water tank. If you are going to take the sacrificel anode out to drain the hot water it's best if the water is cold and for sure not under pressure. To relieve the pressure flip the over center pressure relief. Valve at the top of the tank. You'll need some teflon tape to reseal the anode rod when you reinstall.
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:04 PM   #4
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Welcome to TankTechs where we solve holding tank problems, GUARANTEED!
https://www.scdprobiotics.com/

Check out these sites and read the FAQ's, watch the you tube videos, etc...

This is a biological product not a chemical sanitizer or deodorant so you don't want to use bleach or lysol type products with it as they will kill the (good) bacteria.
Tank Techs RX is made by SCD Probiotics which also makes probiotic liquids you can drink and several probiotic cleaning products called Bio Klean, Odor Away and products (Bokashi) for indoor composting of food waste (which I haven't gotten into), and probiotic animal feed additives.
I started taking the SCD Probiotic liquid when I had an infection caused by a root canal and I was taking antibiotics. I recommend it too.

This type of product was initially developed in Japan where they use the in floor toilets (too much information) which don't (or didn't) have S or P traps and allowed the sewer gases to get into the air. As the Japanese became wealthy they developed this technology to deal with the problem.
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:16 PM   #5
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Is it really necessary to drain the hot water tank after each camping outing especially since we will be going on several more trips throughout the summer and fall?
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:41 PM   #6
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Is it really necessary to drain the hot water tank after each camping outing especially since we will be going on several more trips throughout the summer and fall?
We haven't so far and have not noticed any issues with the water. But we are still pretty much newbies, so I'm interested in what others say
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:41 PM   #7
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Is it really necessary to drain the hot water tank after each camping outing especially since we will be going on several more trips throughout the summer and fall?
Probably some do, but only empty mine about 3 times a year, flush it out and inspect the anode. Others, may do differently.
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:44 PM   #8
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Probably some do, but only empty mine about 3 times a year, flush it out and inspect the anode. Others, may do differently.
To me, it's so hard to get that anode rod started back in, I don't want to do it anymore than I have to.
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:55 PM   #9
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Escape 19 Dumping Questions

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Is it really necessary to drain the hot water tank after each camping outing especially since we will be going on several more trips throughout the summer and fall?

I think your question about emptying the fresh water tank before you dump got us off on a rabbit trail.

IMO the only time you need to dump the fresh water tank and water heater is when you're winterizing your trailer. If you're using the trailer regularly, and don't need to winterize, I don't know any reason to ever empty the water tank. If you're going to store the trailer for several months, you may want to empty the fresh water. You can also sanitize when you pull out of of storage.

It's also a good idea to annually empty the water heater and rinse it out.

The question about whether to tow trailer with a full fresh water tank comes up regularly. It increases your weight and probability decreases your mileage, but that's a personal question.

I recently read a suggestion on another site... When they arrive at a campsite, they only level and hook up electric. Nothing else. They only hook up the sewer hose when they need to dump.

They ALWAYS use water from the fresh water tank and only hook up to city water to fill their water tank.

It's an interesting idea and I may try it out.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:25 PM   #10
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They ALWAYS use water from the fresh water tank and only hook up to city water to fill their water tank.

It's an interesting idea and I may try it out.
We connect with city water whenever it's available and use our fresh water tank only when there's no hookup. Seems like that saves wear and tear on the water pump. Should that not be a concern? We're newbies, too, so thanks for any advice.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:35 PM   #11
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We connect with city water whenever it's available and use our fresh water tank only when there's no hookup. Seems like that saves wear and tear on the water pump. Should that not be a concern? We're newbies, too, so thanks for any advice.

That's been my practice too.

Their thinking was:

1) the pump puts out less pressure than a water hookup. With the lower water pressure from the pump they were less likely to have a leak. I don't know how old their RV was.

2) it was faster and often they never needed the water hook up.


With modern PEX water lines, you will be fine on a water hookup. I agree with the common practice of always using a pressure reducer. This limits the water pressure in the trailer to 60 PSI.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:39 PM   #12
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What we do and what I would guess, only a guess, that most do with what some have said including ReagentGrade here, is never empty the fresh tank or the hot water heater except to winterize. And fill and empty when de-winterizing or disinfecting at the beginning of the season. Bothering with getting the anode back in is enough trouble for once a year on that, putting Teflon tape on the threads.

You simply dump the black and then the gray, and hopefully there is a hose at the dump for cleaning out your sewer hose and the area, if necessary.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:42 PM   #13
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Yes, we use a water pressure regulator that came with the ETI intro package. They advised us to connect it between the water source and our hose to manage the pressure in the hose, as well as in the trailer. Works great, as far as I can tell. No issues yet anyway.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:48 PM   #14
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Yes, we use a water pressure regulator that came with the ETI intro package. They advised us to connect it between the water source and our hose to manage the pressure in the hose, as well as in the trailer. Works great, as far as I can tell. No issues yet anyway.
I don't know how many people have had their water pressure regulators go bad but we are on the third or fourth. And, yes, you definitely need one. I might as well go out and buy another regulator now.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:51 PM   #15
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Do you carry a spare in case the need arises when camping?
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:02 PM   #16
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Do you carry a spare in case the need arises when camping?
No, but should, which is why I said I should go get one now! . They are at many places and not too difficult to find but a spare is an excellent idea. Of course, one can keep spares on all kinds of things and we have a few! For various trailer needs. If you have a spare, then maybe nothing will happen.
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:04 PM   #17
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On the toilet chemicals, due to the 21' having a larger black tank than our 19', I use two gallons with the chem packs now.
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:09 PM   #18
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4. Do I need to add some sort of chemical/water solution (i.e...tank deodorizer) to the black tank through the toilet? Any recommendations?
Jim, you don't need to add anything to your black tank. It's an option. I gave up on it a few years back and haven't noticed anything different. Crack a window in some other part of the trailer, use the bath fan, and it'll all be good
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:15 PM   #19
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Jim, you don't need to add anything to your black tank. It's an option. I gave up on it a few years back and haven't noticed anything different. Crack a window in some other part of the trailer, use the bath fan, and it'll all be good
I do use a deodorizer and have been using Calgon in the black and grey tanks. I don't know if this helps or not but my sensors sure work good. Plus after rinsing out the black tank, it looks like new through the toilet. Loren
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:17 PM   #20
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Yes, not necessary to put packs or liquid chemicals in the toilet but many do. What IS necessary is to keep a good amount of water in the black tank at all times (except when winterized.) So when dumping, then add water. That helps prevent problems.
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