Escape 5.0 TA Questions

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Chris R

Here is alternative. Although the hatch does not access the area under the stairs, it does access a large and deep area, almost too deep. I had ETI install the hatch below the body line so I could divide the space between outside access and inside access. The smaller area at the bottom behind the hatch is large enough to hold levellers, X-ball chocks, tire chocks and other small misc, stuff. The upper area is also large, I just had to add a door above the fire extinguisher.

Wish I had thought of that. Too late now, but it would have been nice. But I wasn't really aware of how high that compartment was and it never occurred to me that it could be divided.

Originally Posted by Chris R

I think the non-thermal opening windows are the best for us even though we have thermal windows on the others. The emergency exit above the bed also can be cranked open to provide additional ventilation.

That is exactly what we did. Wanted to be able to open windows and turn on the MaxxFan on cool evenings/nights.

[padlin]

If I were to do it over I'd go for the opening ones.

[darrentoma]

Re Towing
I mentioned this on another thread a while back that I place a fresnel lens on the rear window of my truck. Gives a fish eye view of hitch when backing up. At least I have some sort of visual ... and it works even better as I get use to it. At first I did the spray bottle thing to install but more lately I have got less fussy and just slap it up there dry to hook up then take it off after or at least after unhitching. My truck sounds like the same setup as Donna's except I have a rollup tonneau on my F150... but site lines are likely similar. Egs of the fresnal lens I am talking about:
Amazon.com: SINEDY Wide Angle Rear Window Fresnel Lens For Car Van SUV Cosy Specialized: Automotive

Re Storage
I have a question about under bed storage. Is there anything there or no? Our existing fifth wheel (getting on in age) has room for the three tables we take along with us. Just wondering if the 5.0 ta has a similar provision.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by darrentoma

Re Storage
I have a question about under bed storage. Is there anything there or no? Our existing fifth wheel (getting on in age) has room for the three tables we take along with us. Just wondering if the 5.0 ta has a similar provision.

None. The only under bed storage is the front storage compartment which is under the sleeping loft overhang. And while it is the largest of the outside accessible storage compartments, the only table that could be stored there would be a very small folding table. Did I say very small?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by PGDriver

Hi Mark. No not big enough for lawn chairs. But a great place for propane stove, hoses, electrical cords and such.

Doug, is that a Reliance Desert Patrol 6-gallon/23-litre water container? That would make that upper compartment more than 19" deep (front to back), and about 18" tall, which seems like a substantial space. Maybe it's a smaller container?

[darrentoma]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

None. The only under bed storage is the front storage compartment which is under the sleeping loft overhang. And while it is the largest of the outside accessible storage compartments, the only table that could be stored there would be a very small folding table. Did I say very small?

Thanks for the info .... now it makes sense why there is so much clearance to the ceiling. We have less than that in the old Peak made Frontier but it becomes hard to sacrifice that storage space under the bed where we have a table for the Napoleon Travel Q, smaller lifetime table for the camp stove and a larger general purpose lifetime table. We don't always camp where a picnic table is available so it's nice to bring these along. I guess it might be possible to mount some kind of box on the rear of the 5.0 T/A for such purpose .... anyone do that?

One other point on Towing/Hitching. A comment was made about the Andersen Hitch being so much quieter than the Reese in comparison. I have never owned a Reese but did own a DSP with my previous TV ..... and can attest to the noisy aspect...... yes, very noisy if rear sliding window was open. With this new F150 ecoboost with 6.5 foot box the hitch installer I went with talked me into a Curt Q20. It is very quiet as it pivots around a rubber bushing vs 2 directional steel plates. I wasn't sure about the Q20 last year as I had a couple occasions where I had difficulty hooking up on slightly uneven ground. But so far I think I found the problem to that this summer as it needs a seasonal lubrication and I am pretty sure the installer or maybe even manufacturer never gave it one. Once greased up - it seems to work like a charm .... and as mentioned very quiet .... love the Q20.

Greasing/Lubricating might seem like a chore but really it isn't. But a word of caution with those using Reese hitches is I understand they need every so often every piece needs to be taken apart, cleaned and lubricated .... otherwise there could be a failure .... and there has been some. I guess to make sure and read the owners manual at minimum.

Bottom line about the hitches is the Andersen Hitch might be quiet .... but I just bet the Curt Q20 is just as quiet if not more so. Kind of overkill for my 22' fifth and for the 5.0 T/A ..... but much of the cost is in the installation anyway (thought about installing myself, but didn't).

[C&G in FL]

The actual interior dimensions of the upper front storage compartment (mine, at least) are as follows (all dimensions are in inches):
30-3/8 wide X 18-5/8 high X 17-9/16 deep.


The hatch opening is:
26-5/8 wide X 11-3/4 high, with rounded corners.


While I haven't measured the inside dimensions of the compartment on the passenger side in front of the door, it probably comes close to the upper front compartment in capacity (cubic inches). It is far less "useable" due to the small hatch and the fact that the space is more vertical rather than horizontal.

[cpaharley2008]

a table for the Napoleon Travel Q, smaller lifetime table for the camp stove and a larger general purpose lifetime table. We don't always camp where a picnic table is available so it's nice to bring these along. I guess it might be possible to mount some kind of box on the rear of the 5.0 T/A for such purpose .... anyone do that?




Three extra tables seems a lot of extra weight. These fiberglass units weight less than conventional units and also carry less. Most of the owners have moved up from smaller trailers and love the extra room, those who are downsizing my have to eliminate some of the extra baggage they have been hauling around. Perhaps you can forgo the stock interior table and use one of your tables inside and then take it outside, dual purpose so to speak?
Also the rear hitch has a 100 lb limit and one has to keep in mind that fresh tank is in the rear and putting too much weight back there may effect handling.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Also the rear hitch has a 100 lb limit and one has to keep in mind that fresh tank is in the rear and putting too much weight back there may effect handling.

For what it's worth, I was told by a fairly reliable source at ETI that the 150 pound weight restriction on the bicycle carrier was established to avoid owners from altering the tongue weight too much, which could drastically affect trailer response (sway), and that the bicycle rack is strong enough to handle more than 150 pounds. The same individual indicated that due to a 5th wheel's non-propensity to sway, added weight in the rear, within reason, was not so much of a concern as it is with the tow behind trailers.

[darrentoma]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

a table for the Napoleon Travel Q, smaller lifetime table for the camp stove and a larger general purpose lifetime table. We don't always camp where a picnic table is available so it's nice to bring these along. I guess it might be possible to mount some kind of box on the rear of the 5.0 T/A for such purpose .... anyone do that?




Three extra tables seems a lot of extra weight. These fiberglass units weight less than conventional units and also carry less. Most of the owners have moved up from smaller trailers and love the extra room, those who are downsizing my have to eliminate some of the extra baggage they have been hauling around. Perhaps you can forgo the stock interior table and use one of your tables inside and then take it outside, dual purpose so to speak?
Also the rear hitch has a 100 lb limit and one has to keep in mind that fresh tank is in the rear and putting too much weight back there may effect handling.

Thanks, and I actually did think about this a bit but in reverse. Perhaps ditching the general purpose table we have now and using the stock interior table outside when needed. However, I wouldn't want to be moving it back and forth so have yet to convince myself of this.

Over the years, we have gradually been taking less and less stuff with us. About the only thing I carry in the truck bed these days are a small 10lb propane bottle and the blocks/stands for the jacks. Perhaps a bit of firewood but that is it. Most everything else has it's place in the trailer and is always with us - about the only clutter in the trailer is the foldable lawn chairs stored under the dinette table. The rear seat area of the truck is for any specific use equipment we would take along for a particular trip (ie. Golf clubs, fishing gear, etc, etc).

Would prefer to keep things organized in this manner. Outside storage seems to be as much and maybe even a bit more than we have now. Inside storage seems a bit less with nothing under the bed and no separate shower enclosure that comes in very handy for storing the laundry bag along with a few other items. I sure like the thoughtful extra storage under the steps up to the bed - perhaps those couple of storage points could be used as direct laundry baskets or storing other items we now keep in the shower enclosure.

[Donna D.]

I still own a 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe, LOVE that little trailer! Why did I buy a bigger custom built (20') ETI 5.0TA? After all these years I hate TOTES. They're always underfoot, in the trailer (where I stumble over them) or need to remember which Tote I packed something. (Gotta grab that TOTE out of the garage.) Gradually Ten Forward is becoming fully packed. I've shopped second hand stores, garage sales and have gone through my home looking for duplicates. I'm slowly (after nearly 15 months) hoping when I decide to just HOOK UP and GO, the only thing I need to pack are fresh foods. YMMV

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

I still own a 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe, LOVE that little trailer! Why did I buy a bigger custom built (20') ETI 5.0TA? After all these years I hate TOTES. They're always underfoot, in the trailer (where I stumble over them) or need to remember which Tote I packed something. (Gotta grab that TOTE out of the garage.) Gradually Ten Forward is becoming fully packed. I've shopped second hand stores, garage sales and have gone through my home looking for duplicates. I'm slowly (after nearly 15 months) hoping when I decide to just HOOK UP and GO, the only thing I need to pack are fresh foods. YMMV

Gee Donna, I like my two totes. Easy to remember what is in them. The larger one contains the Weber Q100 and the smaller the camp stove, if I bother to bring the stove, and they go in the back seat of the F150. The totes keep the back seat clean, contain any odors, and serve as rain covers when turned upside down over the appliances. But I can understand not wanting a bunch of totes in the trailer to trip over or to move out of the way every 5 seconds. If I needed the back seat space for passengers, I would put the totes in the bed of the truck behind the hitch. But on the negative side, I can't just hitch and go. I have to load the two totes, two camp chairs, a door and patio mat, a small cooler, and a 5 lb propane tank into the truck before leaving. Good news, 10 minutes tops.

[Donna D.]

Eventually Carl, everyone figures it out. How much of that stuff do you REALLY use at home? For instance, I found myself packing clothes for a week out. Brought the dirty stuff inside, washed/folded put in the dresser. When it was time to go camping, got out the checklist, packed clothes out of the dresser... WTF? I only wore those clothes while camping... WHY did I put those things back in the dresser? The same with SOME cooking stuff.

Yes, there will always be things to pack at the last minute... medications, etc. But I found most of the CRAP I kept shlepping back and forth only were camping stuff. I'd rather keep Ten Forward packed and if I need IT, I'll go get it out of the trailer, rather than the other way around. YMMV

[C&G in FL]

Yep, I agree. My clothes, pillow, and most items stay in the camper. Gail insists she wants to pick the clothing she will bring on every trip. Fine, I'm not going to play that game. So the only stuff I have to load is what goes in the truck and maybe food if we shop beforehand. And the liquid refreshments, of course! I still occasionally tweak things, but not very often; not like when we first started. And its usually something I learn from another RVer. You know, the "why didn't I think of that" syndrome.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by darrentoma

A comment was made about the Andersen Hitch being so much quieter than the Reese in comparison.

Originally Posted by darrentoma

Bottom line about the hitches is the Andersen Hitch might be quiet .... but I just bet the Curt Q20 is just as quiet if not more so. Kind of overkill for my 22' fifth and for the 5.0 T/A ..... but much of the cost is in the installation anyway (thought about installing myself, but didn't).

While I agree that installation would be a substantial part of the overall hitch cost (so the cost of the hitch itself might not be critical... although the Q-series Curts are expensive), I'm not sure that even total installed cost is the primary factor for some of us. Weight may be a greater factor, both due to limited GVWR of the truck, and due to the physical challenge of removing the (removable part of) the hitch between uses.

On the other hand, if I resort to a fifth-wheel I'll probably lift the hitch in and out with a basic engine crane, anyway. An excuse for another couple hundred dollars of garage equipment...

Originally Posted by darrentoma

I wasn't sure about the Q20 last year as I had a couple occasions where I had difficulty hooking up on slightly uneven ground. But so far I think I found the problem to that this summer as it needs a seasonal lubrication and I am pretty sure the installer or maybe even manufacturer never gave it one.

Sadly, equipment does not always come in a ready-to-operate state, even when it should, and even when someone has been paid to install it. I don't think this issue is unique to Curt or this specific installer.

But.... Seasonal lubrication? The Instruction Sheet for the Q20 says

Lubricate before each individual use and every 1,000 miles thereafter

There's a page of lubrication instructions for the jaw pin grease fittings, lower bearing grease fittings, spiral cam, and skid plate.

I just re-read the instructions for the lighter and somewhat different Curt Q16, and this is the lubrication specified before each use:

• Remove the center pivot pin and apply a light coating of high-pressure wheel bearing grease. Replace the pin and ensure it is secured with the safety lynch pin
• Open jaws and apply a small amount of grease to the curved surface of locking pawl. Pawl will be accessible through the operating handle opening in the head side plate
• Use a grease gun to apply grease to both zerks located on the front of each jaw. The jaws must be in the closed and locked position for the zerks to be accessible.
• Use an aerosol applicator to spray a small amount of rust inhibitor or lubricant on the lock handle, linkage bar and pawl pivot points

I can see doing these things seasonally, or in some cases once per trip, but for every hook-up seems unreasonable.

Perhaps these are procedures which no one is expected to actually follow - after all, the same Q16 manual says to do these:

• Torque the four 14mm leg pilot bolts to 100 foot lbs. Re-torque after initial 500 miles and every 1,000 miles thereafter and prior to each individual use
• Torque the two 16mm head bolts to 175 foot lbs. prior to each use and every 1,000 miles thereafter

... and the Q20 manual says

IMPORTANT: Torque the four pilot bolts to 100 foot lbs. Re-torque after initial 500 miles and every 1,000 miles thereafter and prior to each individual use.

It's hard for me to imagine breaking out the torque wrench to make sure the parts of the tug are still properly put together each and every day on the road.

[KarenH]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

I'm slowly (after nearly 15 months) hoping when I decide to just HOOK UP and GO, the only thing I need to pack are fresh foods.

Yup. And don't forget your toothbrush! (I have all the toiletries, make-up, cleaning supplies, pots/pan, dishes and utensils and even some cooking staples duplicated in my trailer.) My camping clothes are always the same and go in a tote in the back of the truck so that just leaves the food and I'm good to go.

[Jim Bennett]

We too keep everything but most clothes and food packed. We do have a list that has items we will load dependant upon destination, like all my camera gear, bikes, canoes, bug tent, etc.

No makeup for us though. My wife doesn't use it, and it wouldn't make me any purdier anyway.

[KarenH]

What?? No make-up? Wouldn't leave home without it, otherwise you couldn't see me, paleface that I am.

My reference to the toothbrush is for Donna D. who once said she forgot hers TWICE.

[rbryan4]

Because of where we live, we have to consider the heat factor when deciding what to keep in the trailer while stored. Many things we'd like to keep there would deteriorate rapidly if stored in the trailer. That includes things like cleaners, greases, oils, personal toiletries and of course, any food items. Pretty much the only things we can keep in the trailer are clothes, tools, dinnerware, linens and other items which won't be hurt by the heat.

[cpaharley2008]

and up here we have the cold factor, thus any canned items or liquid based needs to be removed, freezing them will cause a mess.