Escape trailers and bad roads

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

What would you consider a "tough" suspension? Although there are some Australian caravans intended for trail use, all I've seen in North America are essentially interchangeable suspensions (short-travel basic leaf springs and beam axles, or rubber-sprung independent); the only premium feature offered by some manufacturers is added shock absorbers (not offered by Escape).

Sure see a lot of beefy off-road trailer setups like these when checking the N America market. https://www.blackseriescamper.com/tr...lers/hq15.html

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Sure see a lot of beefy off-road trailer setups like these when checking the N America market. https://www.blackseriescamper.com/tr...lers/hq15.html

That is rugged and/or beefy. It should be strong, and has much more travel than a Torflex (or the similar products from the other running gear suppliers). The trailer even has a TREG coupling, which is certainly off-road stuff.

If you're seeing a lot of them here, that's a new trend; as of a few years ago, this sort of system was common only in the Australian market... and this company is from Australia. I've never seen anything of this class at an RV dealership or show here.

[Greg A]

I was surprised at how much was available as well, Brian. It was totally the Australian market a few years ago with the exception of a few custom expedition builds. There must be some increasing demand for the trailers to be popping up here.

[Spokane Man]

Thanks to everyone for your insights and suggestions. Interestingly, I am looking at a Nash 17K, which several of you mentioned, as a possible alternative....just because it may be more appropriate for bad roads and four season camping. I am still on the fence on this as I really like the 5.0 so it won't be an easy decision. Thanks in particular to the local folks who wrote and gave me their valuable perspective on driving our back roads with the Escape. It sounds like that has not really been a problem.


Thanks again to everyone for taking the time to write...It's been very helpful.


Best regards,
Matt

[Red]

I am a fly fisher in BC and was concerned about dragging my 19 into some nasty places. I have changed the way I approach my expeditions into the back country. Instead of beating my new $40,000 trailer I find a central lake that I can access by good gravel road and park the trailer. I then use my 4x4 to explore the area and find those really good tough to reach fishing holes. I take a boat or float in the back of the truck and usually don't need to travel more than an hour away from my comfy base camp. I know this doesn't work for everyone but for me I am actually enjoying it more.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Spokane Man

Thanks to everyone for your insights and suggestions. Interestingly, I am looking at a Nash 17K, which several of you mentioned, as a possible alternative....just because it may be more appropriate for bad roads and four season camping.

My buddy and I both looked at Nash at an RV show and then at Escape. We both bought Escapes.
When you look at the Nash, open the cupboards and benches and examine the materials and count the staples.

They also weigh probably twice as much, without being more durable.

[Bobbito]

Our 2002 Nash 19B had major damage from leaks after 7 years and again at 12 years. Both times the leaks were undetectable by even the dealer until it was taken apart for repair. The 1st repair cost us $6800 and the 2nd would have been over $5000, but we sold it and got the Escape. The flexing of a trailer on rough road and uneven surfaces stresses the joints between the walls, floor and roof. If you looked at our Google maps street view you would still see me caulking the Nash, but despite my diligence the leaks happened. The Escape cannot leak at these stress points. I have confidence that our Escape will last us for the rest of our trailering days, even used some on our rough forest service roads.

BTW I saw a new Nash trailer on the lot that had water damage from a leak and was repaired before sale.

Bob K

[Bobbito]

Oh and the quality of appliances in the Nash was inferior to those in the Escape, especially the furnace and hot water heater.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by salmo7000

When we decided on an Escape, our thinking was a fiberglass camper would hold up much better than a stick built trailer... not sure that is correct or not, but that's what we thought.

I think this is well proven if we look at all the old Bolers, Trilliums, Scamps, etc still on the road today. Many beautiful trailers at the 50th Boler Anniversary. On the other hand I saw a newer stick trailer pull over on the highway because a piece of his trailer exterior skin was flapping in the wind.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Spokane Man

Interestingly, I am looking at a Nash 17K, which several of you mentioned, as a possible alternative....just because it may be more appropriate for bad roads and four season camping.

For the bad road aspect, I don't see the appeal of this line of trailers. The tires are identical in size and type to those used by Escape (ST205/75R15), and there is no mention in the product web page of anything special about the suspension. Based on the feature names (E-Z Lube and Nev-R Adjust) they are using Dexter axles (like an Escape), but since they don't mention Torflex or likely keywords (independent, torsion, rubber) they will be common beam axles on leaf springs, without shock absorbers.

[Bobbito]

Exactly, Brian. And we did have shocks added to our Nash. Sadly, we believed the salesman at the RV show who said these were particularly good on rough roads. The Escape 21’s suspension has shock absorption built in
Bob K

[alanmalk]

Rugged can't compensate for lack of common sense.
--
Alan

[John in Santa Cruz]

hah. my kid has pulled several MiniMOG based 'adventure campers' out of the mud in remote parts of nevada.... his 5 ton 6x6 has a monster winch.

[Italian Tow]

All sorts down under!

[AnglingMad]

Originally Posted by Bobbito

We frequently take our Escape 21 up forest service roads with ruts and washboard gravel to shake us up. We had the high lift option installed for a bit better clearance for the spray foam. As already stated, slow and steady will get you there without anything other than the odd loose cupboard door. We use straps and footman loop hardware to secure our fridge and I did one of the table mods (bunk bed latch) to secure it for rough roads.
Fly fishing can take you to some pretty remote campsites.
Bob K

Hi Bobbito, We will be doing similar trips when we collect our new 21 in May so pleased to hear about your various road tests, etc. Not being experienced at this am I correct in assuming Footman straps are like these:https://www.strapworks.com/Metal_Footman_Loop_p/mfl.htm and the usual circa 1.5 inch wide tie down straps like I use for my pontoon boat on the truck.

Thanks

[Donna D.]

IMHO if you use the footman loops, don't get mild steel. I'd worry they'd eventually rust, especially as humid as it was during my Big Trip. I'd buy either powdered coated (not just paint), but would prefer stainless steel. Maybe they come in brushed stainless? This is just an example: https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Ste.../dp/B00NVRQ0Y4

[AnglingMad]

Thanks Donna D and agreed 316 Marine grade stainless would be my preferred choice. I just googled Footman straps as I had not heard that name before

[gbaglo]

Those straps were used to keep the fridge door secure, but the new fridge has a lock does it not? Anybody care to opine as to whether straps would be necessary on a new trailer?

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Those straps were used to keep the fridge door secure, but the new fridge has a lock does it not? Anybody care to opine as to whether straps would be necessary on a new trailer?

The Dometic DM2663LBX used in my 2017 21 has pretty solid locks. I have not added straps as I did with the RM 2510 in my 17, and have not had any problems.

I don't do serious off roading with the trailer, but do spend time on gravel & dirt roads, as well as some really bad paved roads. I did add a cabinet door lock to the double door cabinet under the sink after finding my pans on the floor a couple of times. Same with the large closet under the microwave. I added a secondary latch after finding my clothes on the floor...

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Those straps were used to keep the fridge door secure, but the new fridge has a lock does it not? Anybody care to opine as to whether straps would be necessary on a new trailer?

The current (or "new") Dometic refrigerator is the DM series. I've bounced one of these across the country a couple of times, with no straps and no concerns about the latches holding... they may be the best (only good?) feature of the appliance.