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Old 02-25-2019, 04:38 PM   #21
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The trick is from what I can see is to not have a hatch that protrudes into the trailer more than the foam as the heater looks like it buts up against the wall.
The large one of these (3 sizes to select from) for $17 Canadian and free shipping has a 7 inch hole. May do for just replacing the sail switch.

1 Piece ABS Tight White No Screw Round 4/6/8 Inch Access Hatch Cover Deck Plate Anti corrosive Inspection For Boat Yacht Marine-in Marine Hardware from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
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Old 02-25-2019, 06:11 PM   #22
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Why not purchase the one Escape uses on the newer models?
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Old 02-25-2019, 06:31 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Why not purchase the one Escape uses on the newer models?
We debated it in another thread. Another member spoke with Dave at ETI and he said it cannot be retrofitted. Need an entire new furnace. So born was the idea to do a separate small access door that doesn’t incorporate the vent but still provides access to sail switch and circuit board.

Another option?
https://www.amazon.com/Amarine-made-...251209605&psc=

Just cut the flange off with a Dremel if it is an issue. The hole cut into the fiberglass could then even be smaller than the hatch itself.
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Old 02-25-2019, 06:33 PM   #24
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Okay, forgot the new door has the vent in it also.
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Old 02-25-2019, 07:56 PM   #25
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Just cut the flange off with a Dremel if it is an issue. The hole cut into the fiberglass could then even be smaller than the hatch itself.
Never mind. Not so easy. After looking at the hatch more closely I see the door has a thickness that overlaps the flange significantly so it is problematic to do what I describe.
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Old 02-25-2019, 08:10 PM   #26
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Never mind. Not so easy. After looking at the hatch more closely I see the door has a thickness that overlaps the flange significantly so it is problematic to do what I describe.
These are the same brand that I use for my hatches and I would dearly like to use them...but to much to cut off.
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Old 02-26-2019, 11:55 AM   #27
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I just finished removing the old style furnace in our early 2018 19 ft Escape to clean the Sail switch which was full of trash. What a involved pain! Thank God for the instructional videos Reace created on how to accomplish this task. I would kill for an outside access door which would have made this a 20 Minute job instead of an all day job for me (learning for the first time).
Makes me wonder if I could install an after market access panel since I suspect this is a regular maintenance item.
Also, in order to remove the outside exhaust plate, I had to buy a heat gun to melt the glue that bonds the plate to the outside of the trailer. What a mess... glue residue all over the place. You really need to do this when removing and reinstalling the exhaust pipe. Finally after reinstalling the unit, you need to seal the outside plate with caulking. Like I mentioned earlier, if this is a regular maintenance item (maybe twice a year?) what a hassle. The only resolution is probably an after market hatch install.
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Old 02-26-2019, 12:04 PM   #28
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Does anyone know if there is a gap between the furnace and the fiberglass shell? The thickness of the door may not interfere with the furnace.
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Old 02-26-2019, 03:49 PM   #29
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Does anyone know if there is a gap between the furnace and the fiberglass shell? The thickness of the door may not interfere with the furnace.
When I maneuvered the unit back in place, I believe it went right up against the back wall of the trailer. No room to spare.
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Old 02-26-2019, 05:55 PM   #30
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Perhaps an access panel on the access panel would work?
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Old 02-27-2019, 07:24 AM   #31
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Please provide the link to the instructional video that Reece made on the furnace. Much appreciated.
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Old 02-27-2019, 07:28 AM   #32
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Please provide the link to the instructional video that Reece made on the furnace. Much appreciated.
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCdauP...B6wYrWg/videos
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:46 AM   #33
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Thanks very much for those links. Those videos are very helpful.
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Old 03-30-2019, 01:06 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by tannerls View Post
Also, in order to remove the outside exhaust plate, I had to buy a heat gun to melt the glue that bonds the plate to the outside of the trailer. What a mess... glue residue all over the place. You really need to do this when removing and reinstalling the exhaust pipe. Finally after reinstalling the unit, you need to seal the outside plate with caulking. Like I mentioned earlier, if this is a regular maintenance item (maybe twice a year?) what a hassle. The only resolution is probably an after market hatch install.
Well after all the hassle of removing the furnace and cleaning the Sail switch I thought I would be good for the remainder of the year. But no! My wife and I went on a trip to Kartchner Caverns SP. Got one night of heat. The next night, no heat. Same problem. Fan runs for 30 seconds and stops. Froze our buns off. Had to make a run to Tucson to buy an Electric heater. Difficult to find this time of the year. Finally located one at Sears. I will eventually calm down and pull the furnace again. I will get the model number of the switch and buy several as spares. Need an access Panel.
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Old 03-30-2019, 01:31 AM   #35
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It would be helpful if you entered the year of your 19 Escape in your profile and when discussing the furnace if you and others included the manufacturer and model.
I say this because my 2009 17B has an Atwood furnace that has not had issues with the sail switch. I did have to have the motor replaced under warranty in the first year.

It might help to narrow down why and when these sail switch issues began to surface.
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Old 03-30-2019, 08:25 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by tannerls View Post
Well after all the hassle of removing the furnace and cleaning the Sail switch I thought I would be good for the remainder of the year. But no! My wife and I went on a trip to Kartchner Caverns SP. Got one night of heat. The next night, no heat. Same problem. Fan runs for 30 seconds and stops. Froze our buns off. Had to make a run to Tucson to buy an Electric heater. Difficult to find this time of the year. Finally located one at Sears. I will eventually calm down and pull the furnace again. I will get the model number of the switch and buy several as spares. Need an access Panel.
Did you see this?
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post282940

This is a direct link to part 1 (post #254) but be sure to go to post #261 for part 2. Eggscape has solved the problem.
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Old 04-02-2019, 01:44 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Did you see this?
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post282940

This is a direct link to part 1 (post #254) but be sure to go to post #261 for part 2. Eggscape has solved the problem.
Thank you rubicon327 for the link... Just read Eggscape's postings. What a beautiful job. I was actually considering installing a circuit to short the Sail switch in case of emergency but then common sense took over and the Safety Gods convinced me not to do it. This modification made by Eggscape would allow for servicing in the field.
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Old 04-02-2019, 10:03 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tannerls View Post
Thank you rubicon327 for the link... Just read Eggscape's postings. What a beautiful job. I was actually considering installing a circuit to short the Sail switch in case of emergency but then common sense took over and the Safety Gods convinced me not to do it. This modification made by Eggscape would allow for servicing in the field.
Actually I tried the bypass switch and found the control board logic checks to make sure the switch sequences (open first, and then closes) before the furnace will open the gas valve. I was trying to see how low the voltage could be and still have the furnace working for ski trips.
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:21 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
It would be helpful if you entered the year of your 19 Escape in your profile and when discussing the furnace if you and others included the manufacturer and model.
I say this because my 2009 17B has an Atwood furnace that has not had issues with the sail switch. I did have to have the motor replaced under warranty in the first year.

It might help to narrow down why and when these sail switch issues began to surface.
Good point gbaglo... Just updated my profile. Hope it comes through okay.
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:27 AM   #40
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Actually I tried the bypass switch and found the control board logic checks to make sure the switch sequences (open first, and then closes) before the furnace will open the gas valve. I was trying to see how low the voltage could be and still have the furnace working for ski trips.
Good point... I guess if you were in 30 degree weather you could manually flip the switch in an emergency to close the circuit in sequence. You would have to do this for each cycle.
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