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Old 01-04-2016, 04:34 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Those who omit the hood - or go with the stainless version - and are feeling magnet-deprived can add a steel panel to the refrigerator door.
Not all refrigerator door panels in all models are flat.
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:47 PM   #62
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I think there are 3M Velcro products too.
You'll want it removable to change batteries.
That's what I used for just that reason, but stuck both the indoor/outdoor and the fridge thermometers to the plywood over the fridge with them, 2 strips on each. You do have to give them a good push to get the Velcro to do it's thing. 2 years and about 15000 miles without falling off. Also used it to hang the motion light in the bathroom under the sink.
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:01 PM   #63
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Not all refrigerator door panels in all models are flat.
Right. Ours is not but our previous one was.
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:05 PM   #64
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Being of the magnet-deprived group, do magnets stick to the 6.7 Fridge panel?
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Old 01-04-2016, 06:33 PM   #65
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help us make a decision

Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
One thing I like about having the hood is it gives me attaching flexibility for adding a shelf for cups, or hooks for utensils, and even my own extra special lighting. The hood creates attachment points without drilling into vinyl, or walls. The vent vents pretty good, too.
So true about the hood also being handy . Bought extra material and just put in back of hood and the counter piece . Found a edging material , maybe will also go up wall too later . It has been in place over a year now . Just didn't like the vinyl behind the stove. hood and counter holds it in place . If needed will clean easy . Pat
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Old 01-04-2016, 06:47 PM   #66
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Steel sheet for 'fridge magnets and the curved-front refrigerator

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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Not all refrigerator door panels in all models are flat.
No, but they don't need to be. As long as it is a simple cylindrical curve (not a compound curve), a thin flat sheet will lay on it without difficulty. We're talking thin, here, not something you would need equipment to bend. 20 inch wide steel flashing would probably work if you don't mind the galvanized finish, and it would easy to check a sample with a test magnet to be sure before cutting and installing it. I've used this (or similar) for "punched tin" cabinet door panels, but not yet for a refrigerator - the RV refrigerator door panel that I have changed is masonite, made into a chalkboard by painting it.... that mterial wouldn't work with the curve.

A greater issue would be if the refrigerator door is not designed to take a removable decor panel, since it would then be difficult to attach the steel sheet. For an example, the RML 8555 and RMD 8555 previously and currently provided by Escape in larger model trailers have curved fronts; fortunately, the installation manuals show how to remove and replace the decor panels, and provide dimensions if you want to provide your own. The maximum thickness in this case is 1.7 mm (I assume they're expecting people to use plastic sheet stock), but the steel sheet doesn't need to be anywhere near that thick to work with magnets.
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:49 PM   #67
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The range hood fan sounds like a 747 taking off. However we've found, in our 6 months in the trailer last year, that those times when cooking inside it
a. helps keep some moisture down when in cold temperatures (<10 degrees)
b. helps keep the cook from cooking in the heat when it's hot outside - even with the fantastic fan going.

Yes. Hate the noise, but there's been enough times where we'd rather the noise than the moisture/heat in the trailer to justify (for us) having the hood fan.
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:09 PM   #68
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The range hood noise is irritating to be sure, but then again, our home range hood is noisy too. It's only used when needed, so no biggie. We like the way the stainless looks too.
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:11 PM   #69
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There are screw holes on the back of the unit and it can easily be attached over the refer to the paneling.
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:42 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
So true about the hood also being handy . Bought extra material and just put in back of hood and the counter piece . Found a edging material , maybe will also go up wall too later . It has been in place over a year now . Just didn't like the vinyl behind the stove. hood and counter holds it in place . If needed will clean easy . Pat
I have thought that the whole kitchen counter needed something behind it but didn't even think of using the same design.



Our 19' stove hood (not stainless) took magnets but our new one, stainless, does not. Glad to use the hood for steam even with the noise.
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Old 01-04-2016, 09:06 PM   #71
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I have thought that the whole kitchen counter needed something behind it but didn't even think of using the same design.



Our 19' stove hood (not stainless) took magnets but our new one, stainless, does not. Glad to use the hood for steam even with the noise.
I think I got the idea when I read somewhere Escape had installed Stainless behind stove at onetime . I think this is easier and it kind of makes it look like it 's own kitchen space . You are right about helping get rid of the stream even if we have to hear a little noise for awhile from the hood fan . Pat
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Old 01-04-2016, 09:14 PM   #72
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I think I got the idea when I read somewhere Escape had installed Stainless behind stove at onetime .
One, just one trailer and Reace said never again!
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Old 01-04-2016, 09:33 PM   #73
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One, just one trailer and Reace said never again!
Donna what I have done is just undoing the screws a little then tucking the panel in behind the hood and behind the counter piece ,then tightening up the screws . The longest part was measuring what it would take to accomplish this . It bends pretty good which I would think the stainless would be harder to bend . Pat
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Old 01-04-2016, 09:51 PM   #74
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I can't remember who's trailer it was done in... Sandra? But I think he had cut out around a window too. I like the Formica idea.
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Old 01-05-2016, 12:44 AM   #75
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One, just one trailer and Reace said never again!
Hi: Donna D... That ended up being our 5.0. Now emers382's. Here's a pic. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 01-05-2016, 06:34 PM   #76
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Hi: Donna D... That ended up being our 5.0. Now emers382's. Here's a pic. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
One of a kind Alf!
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Old 01-05-2016, 07:48 PM   #77
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It wasn't me....but I wish it was... I.m still playing with the idea of using those fake metal looking tiles (actually some sort of plastic) to put behind the cooktop. I'm in no rush as I usually microwave and cook outside.
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Old 01-05-2016, 07:56 PM   #78
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My stove cover, when open for cooking, covers the wall behind the stove. And, anyway, the vinyl is easy to clean.
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Old 01-05-2016, 09:08 PM   #79
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My stove cover, when open for cooking, covers the wall behind the stove. And, anyway, the vinyl is easy to clean.
Mine is removable too and I often flip it up to protect the wall, but sometimes I want to chop something at the same time... it's a cutting board. Humm, I'm going to have to think about this a bit....
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Old 01-05-2016, 10:13 PM   #80
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Mine is removable too and I often flip it up to protect the wall, but sometimes I want to chop something at the same time... it's a cutting board. Humm, I'm going to have to think about this a bit....
Hi: Donna D... While on the story covering stove tops here's a pic of our Epicurean BBQ tray turned stove top cutting board. It travels there on the 3 burner stove cover with silicone feet firmly gripping the edges... but can be lifted off at a moments nudging. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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