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Old 01-29-2015, 01:06 PM   #1
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Humidity

Opened a window and ran the fan for several hours yesterday. The humidity was 100 per cent at the beginning and 100 per cent when I closed up.
Environment Canada reports 95 per cent humidity today.
So, my question, is this exercise pointless until general humidity is less?
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Old 01-29-2015, 01:21 PM   #2
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In short, yes. Unless you can seal the interior to prevent the intrusion of the outside humid air.
Try turning on the a/c with everything closed, that should lower the interior humidity,
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Old 01-29-2015, 01:28 PM   #3
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No a/c.
Just have to let Dri-Z-Airs do the job. Might turn on the heat to warm the air.
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Old 01-29-2015, 01:35 PM   #4
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We have three lamps with 60 watt bulbs burning 24/7 and that seems to help keep things dry. We leave the Max Fan open a bit too.
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Old 01-29-2015, 01:36 PM   #5
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No a/c.
Just have to let Dri-Z-Airs do the job. Might turn on the heat to warm the air.
Yes turn heat on and open maxx vent. It will go but will come back very quickly.

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Old 01-29-2015, 01:42 PM   #6
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I bought a small dehumidifier it really does help if you are plugged in. Very humid here in Olympia. I hate that clammy feeling and damp smell. Also use Dri-Z-Airs.
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Old 01-29-2015, 01:46 PM   #7
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I thought turning on my heat would dry out the air but it didn't. It might have worked if i had opened a vent too. So i bought the dehumidifier.
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Old 01-29-2015, 02:23 PM   #8
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I have used these types of units for well over 30 years in boats and trailers to keep humidity related issues at bay. I have never had an issue with humidity.

The "tomato juice can" one was the first type I used and it probably is all that's needed. Later, in a boat, I went to the taller chimney design and added a flexible dryer vent up to just underneath a slightly open hatch.

My theory is that the chimney creates a thermal current that is enough to circulate and dry the cold moisture filled air. I don't look at these as heaters but as low key circulators. I leave the tall one on 24/7 through the winter in my Escape.

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Old 01-29-2015, 03:43 PM   #9
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Ron,
What watt light bulb are running in your taller unit ? I am going to guess a 60 watt bulb.
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Old 01-29-2015, 04:22 PM   #10
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Some posts I've read on this topic previously have noted that the heaters don't dry the air, they just enable it to hold more moisture before it condenses. I believe they're correct. I've opened all the cupboard doors, put out a single Dri-Z, and plugged in a small fan on a timer that comes on once a day. All the vents are closed, so theoretically I should have less moisture inside the trailer than outside. No point in using a dehumidifying device if the vents are open.

It used to be common practice to vent the crawlspaces under homes as well but that generally just introduces more moisture into the space; unless of course you live among the cacti and rattlesnakes.

Current wisdom is to seal up the space AND manipulate the trapped environment
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Old 01-29-2015, 05:07 PM   #11
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Ron,
What watt light bulb are running in your taller unit ? I am going to guess a 60 watt bulb.
Good guess, yes, 60 seems adequate for the wide open trailer space. In higher humidity situations such as on a boat with water in the bilge and multiple spaces I've used up to 5 of them including a couple of 100 watt ones.

It's my belief that the air current generated, including perhaps carrying some of the moisture up to a hatch cracked open a tiny amount works well and that the slightly circulating air has a benefit. Works for me, to each their own.

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Old 01-29-2015, 05:21 PM   #12
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Some posts I've read on this topic previously have noted that the heaters don't dry the air, they just enable it to hold more moisture before it condenses. I believe they're correct. I've opened all the cupboard doors, put out a single Dri-Z, and plugged in a small fan on a timer that comes on once a day. All the vents are closed, so theoretically I should have less moisture inside the trailer than outside. No point in using a dehumidifying device if the vents are open.

It used to be common practice to vent the crawlspaces under homes as well but that generally just introduces more moisture into the space; unless of course you live among the cacti and rattlesnakes.

Current wisdom is to seal up the space AND manipulate the trapped environment
You are right Dave. Warm air can and does hold considerably more moisture than cold air. That is why people have humidifiers for use during the coldest weather in their home. Warming the trailer should reduce the amount of moisture that condenses but not the over all amount of moisture. My wife is a big fan of the those crystals that absorb moisture. She tells me about all the moisture she has collected. When I suggest that she would probably have to dehumidify all the air in North Delta before she made a big difference in our "not so airtight trailer" I get a shrug. Mother nature likes equilibrium.
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Old 01-29-2015, 05:32 PM   #13
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Mother nature likes equilibrium.

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Old 01-29-2015, 06:23 PM   #14
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Opened a window and ran the fan for several hours yesterday. The humidity was 100 per cent at the beginning and 100 per cent when I closed up.
Environment Canada reports 95 per cent humidity today.
So, my question, is this exercise pointless until general humidity is less?
That depends on the temperature. It is 100 percent relative humidity, which means the amount of moisture in the air is as much as air at that temperature can hold. If you replaced warm air at 100% rel humidity with cooler air at 100% rel humidity, you decreased the amount of moisture in the air in the trailer, and thus will reduce condensation when it cools down. If you replaced cool air with warmer air (both at 100% rel humidity), you just made it worse by adding moisture.

I suggest airing out the trailer on cooler days (even if they are humid), or warm but dry days. Ah, right, lower mainland BC... no dry days in winter for Baglo.

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Some posts I've read on this topic previously have noted that the heaters don't dry the air, they just enable it to hold more moisture before it condenses.
Absolutely true.
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Old 01-29-2015, 06:24 PM   #15
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In using just the Dri-Z- Air absorptive salt for few years we weren't successful in controlling mold and mildew in our old trailer, so we tried leaving the windows and vents open, opting for just good air circulation to prevent issues. Still mold and mildew. Purchasing the low wattage heater/fan unit all but eliminated our problem. I plan on using it in our new Escape. It just raises the air temperature in the trailer a few degrees warmer than outside and it keeps the moisture from condensing on surfaces. The fan is small and just moves the air enough to help the heat move around the trailer. It was recommended to me at Traveland RV in Langley. Our Greater Vancouver area winters have plenty of rain and the air is super humid all the time, so I think it would handle most climates. It is about 75W AC, made by Caframo and costs about $70.


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Old 01-29-2015, 06:33 PM   #16
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Purchasing the low wattage heater/fan unit all but eliminated our problem. I plan on using it in our new Escape. It just raises the air temperature in the trailer a few degrees warmer than outside and it keeps the moisture from condensing on surfaces. The fan is small and just moves the air enough to help the heat move around the trailer.
These devices make much more sense to me than a light bulb - it should be both safer (lower surface temperature) and much more effective (due to the air circulation).
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:05 PM   #17
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If we hadn't successfully used the "Eva-Dry" products in the Casita, we'd try the Dri-Z-Air unit. Living in the sometimes very humid S. Appalachian Mountains, I'm a freak about moisture and don't want to deal with mildew at all. We run a very small (16 oz. capacity) dehumidifier when the trailer is under the carport and leave the Eva-Dry units in the cabinets and closet. These units can absorb 8 to 14 oz. each, depending on the size. They come in 2 sizes. When beads inside the unit's window indicate it is "full", you plug it into a 120V outlet and dry it out for 8 to 10 hours. Re-useable, with a 10 year guaranty. The 8 oz. capacity units, about the size of a 1lb. block of cheese, go with us when we travel and really help keep enclosed areas fairly dry. As for the general trailer area, we keep a small fan (battery operated when dry camping) running. When you have to leave an area vented and can't really control moisture, circulating the air is key when trying to stay on top of mildew. I purchased all of our Eva-Dry units from Amazon.com, as no one carries them locally.

These will go into the Escape when we get it in April!
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:16 PM   #18
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After six hours running the electric heater with the vent open a tad, humidity is 75 per cent. As suggested above, I don't expect that to last.
This exercise was all precautionary since I detect no mold or mildew or any other issues.
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:30 PM   #19
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I agree with oldclimber Glenn. The little EvaDry dehumidifiers work - and while they're working they use no power. We have used them in closets, safes, bathrooms, etc for years with great results. Its one of the first items we're putting in our trailer.
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:38 PM   #20
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I think Dri Z Air does same thing, but you have to replace the beads as they dissolve as they absorb moisture. I have two.
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