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Old 09-22-2015, 05:39 PM   #181
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Would have spent more money and bought the Artic Fox TT. Especially after the latest trailer fix. The 3" frame mending plate fix. It would have been better for ETI to have designed and built these trailers right at the factory. Now I have to find A good welder that works for beans
What next ?
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:42 PM   #182
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Frank, your list looks great!

On the aluminum rims, they do not have the caps that are on the standard wheels. Those caps help keep the lug nuts in place. When you pick up the trailer, you need to tighten the lug nuts every 100 miles for at least the first 300. Make especially sure that you do that with the aluminum.

The electric cord is easily cleaned as it is put away by holding a towel in one or both hands and running the cord through it in less than a minute as you feed the cord in. Some people want detachable because they have other uses for the cord.

The idea for some of the smoke cover is that you can see through it to see stars or maybe the moon!
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:16 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by blue_bullet View Post
Hi Frank,
We are building our list for a 21 as well. Our list is similar to yours. We added the spare as the 5th aluminum wheel. The WDH selections have changed and you may not need one depending on your TV. You can add later. The approach we are taking is load it up and eliminate things definitely not wanted/needed and try to anticipate the need for some custom option that would be nice to have but needs to be done during the build. That's where this forum is quite helpful.

I think the smoke fan is a see thru affair.

Power cord is priced competitively. You may need 2 dog bone adapters for connection to household 15-20A and one for 50A connection if you hit a site with only good 50A connects.

I like the led light option for the awning. Up in the air about the MicroProbe option for the holding tanks. We hope to minimize the use of the bw tank and use paper judiciously.
Like the exterior propane connector and the outside shower connection.

We are new here too, but not to camping albeit more primitive types. There's a lot of helpful, well informed members here. I find lurking helps as I've learned a lot in a few weeks.
Hey Rob!

Hmmm, added a spare with an aluminum wheel? My thought is it's covered anyways, and if I use it, it will only be till I fix the good one. That's what I do with the egg we currently have. But not a bad idea!

Based on what Alf said, we probably won't do any options with the Maxxfan.

I only asked about the power cord because I'm confused. Do the 21's have a marine type 30 amp RV plug on the side of the trailer, or does the stock one just come through a door in the side? Our Parkliner's cord was attached inside and came out through a door. I took out the old cable, installed a 30 amp marine female plug in the old door, and built a new 30 amp cable. I also bought a short 30 amp right angle so the main cord does not pull on the outlet. We have the 20 amp and 50 amp adapters.

Gail says she will do her own LED outside stuff.

I've used standard propane connectors a long time, don't need anything fancy. Can't imagine using an outside shower, but that may change over time as we keep looking.

Take care and keep on lurking!

Frank
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:22 PM   #184
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Do the 21's have a marine type 30 amp RV plug on the side of the trailer, or does the stock one just come through a door in the side?
Standard cord comes through a door on the side. Option has the 30 amp plug on the side of the trailer and comes with the 30 amp cord.

Outside shower good for dogs and kayakers. Also fun way to cool off on hot days if there's no other option.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:27 PM   #185
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Hey Rob!

Hmmm, added a spare with an aluminum wheel? My thought is it's covered anyways, and if I use it, it will only be till I fix the good one. That's what I do with the egg we currently have. But not a bad idea!

I only asked about the power cord because I'm confused. Do the 21's have a marine type 30 amp RV plug on the side of the trailer, or does the stock one just come through a door in the side? Our Parkliner's cord was attached inside and came out through a door. I took out the old cable, installed a 30 amp marine female plug in the old door, and built a new 30 amp cable. I also bought a short 30 amp right angle so the main cord does not pull on the outlet. We have the 20 amp and 50 amp adapters.

Can't imagine using an outside shower, but that may change over time as we keep looking.

Frank
Frank,
The white steel rims will rust wherever they are.

My understanding is the power cord is a 25' standalone that plugs into the 21. Do you think it is a pull out affair?

I have used 2 sun showers along with a Rube Goldberg PVC pipe design to hold them and a shower curtain for years. Just need flip flops and a pallet to stand on. I fear messy bathrooms.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:31 PM   #186
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Standard cord comes through a door on the side. Option has the 30 amp plug on the side of the trailer and comes with the 30 amp cord.

Outside shower good for dogs and kayakers. Also fun way to cool off on hot days if there's no other option.
Thanks for clearing up the plug option, Doug.

In the past my option to the sun shower was (1) no shower, or (2) hit the snow melt creek.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:42 PM   #187
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7. Additional Exterior Hatch (Rear Driver Side) $150.00
Easy to get to this space from inside so I didn't do this.
8. Extra Insulation & Thermal Windows (Fixed windows in Sleeping area) $1,000.00
Front window over the bed means no shelf or cubbies for storage there. We prefer the shelf.


9. Inverter 1500W Includes 1 outlet (Transfer Switch available Includes all outlets $850.00) $550.00
Might get one later; easy add but don't expect to need one.

11. Opening Window in Bathroom $200.00

Is good. Who cares if rain gets into the bathroom?

13. Removable Power Cord $150.00 (?)
Means no hole for mice/bugs to crawl in

14. Storage Cubby Cabinet Bins for Outside Bathroom Door $150.00

Made our own half-height for hanging coats over it.
20. Maxxfan with Remote 7500k (upgrade). Smoke $125.00 (?)
Lets in a bit more light

21. Winterizing T Valve $35.00
Yup

5 & 6 - Is a weight distribution hitch required for these trailers?
I think so.



Frank
I think the thermal windows make a big difference in the quietness of the trailer when in campgrounds. Didn't do the foam and heat pads as we're no hard-core winter campers. With the added Reflectix and some carpet runners it's quite comfy when in the 30s/40s; holds heat well.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:43 PM   #188
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Standard cord comes through a door on the side. Option has the 30 amp plug on the side of the trailer and comes with the 30 amp cord.
Why do trailer manufactures do the cord through a door at all? Sheesh! That sounds like a good option to get then, very reasonably priced, and saves me from doing it myself!

Frank
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:46 PM   #189
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Originally Posted by blue_bullet View Post
Frank,
The white steel rims will rust wherever they are.
I understand that, but for a spare under a cover, I don't mind. Again, if I had to put the spare on, it would only be on briefly. Still, for 95 CAD, something to think about. Thanks!

Frank
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:51 PM   #190
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Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Why do trailer manufactures do the cord through a door at all? Sheesh! That sounds like a good option to get then, very reasonably priced, and saves me from doing it myself!

Frank
I'm perfectly happy with my "cord through a door". I've seen no evidence of mice or bugs, or even dirt inside where the cord ends up. It's easy to wrap a paper towel around a dirty cord with one hand and feed it into the hole with the other. Only have to take out what is required to reach the power post.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:54 PM   #191
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Frank,
The white steel rims will rust wherever they are.
I was going to replace my white steel rims with aluminum until it was pointed out to me that they need routine maintenance too. Realized I like the white steel...
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:05 PM   #192
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"In sleeping area"

Quote:
8. Extra Insulation & Thermal Windows (Fixed windows in Sleeping area) $1,000.00
I'm pretty sure the "fixed windows in sleeping area" means in the 5.0(TA).

The side window in the 21's sleeping area does open.

However, if you get the optional front window in the 21, it doesn't open and is tempered glass (not thermal). It also comes with a rock shield, and leaves no room for the narrow shelf that is standard and goes across the head of the bed in the 21. We ordered ours with the front window (you've probably read on other threads). YMMV

To all of the above, you should verify with ETI that these things are still true/haven't changed for your build sheet.
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:22 PM   #193
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To all of the above, you should verify with ETI that these things are still true/haven't changed for your build sheet.
And that's the truth.
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:40 PM   #194
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I'm pretty sure the "fixed windows in sleeping area" means in the 5.0(TA).

The side window in the 21's sleeping area does open.
Does your side window open towards the fridge or away from it?
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:58 PM   #195
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Why do trailer manufactures do the cord through a door at all? Sheesh!

Frank
Because it so much easier to use. What do you find a problem with it?
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:23 PM   #196
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[QUOTE=Rossue;111664]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mary F View Post
I'm pretty sure the "fixed windows in sleeping area" means in the 5.0(TA).

The side window in the 21's sleeping area does open.

Does your side window open towards the fridge or away from it?
All sliders have the fixed pane toward the front of the trailer as were it reversed it would allow road dirt/grit to blow into the seal and cause leakage. ETI used to have a rear window that opened but it was a constant battle for owners with crud buildup on the rear, so they dropped it.
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Old 09-22-2015, 10:58 PM   #197
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Well lets see. After using the trailer for 8 days, we found out that we made one huge mistake. We should have gotten it a lot sooner, but better late than never. Loren
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:42 PM   #198
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On the aluminum rims, they do not have the caps that are on the standard wheels. Those caps help keep the lug nuts in place. When you pick up the trailer, you need to tighten the lug nuts every 100 miles for at least the first 300
I've never heard of a hub cap which keeps wheel nuts tight, and it doesn't make sense mechanically. The re-torquing requirement is due to the use of lug-centric wheels (instead of hub-centric, like almost all vehicles now other than small trailers), and perhaps the aluminum wheel material (although this isn't a problem with aluminum wheels on cars, which are now far more common than steel).

What makes you think the caps with the standard wheels keep the nuts tight?
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:44 PM   #199
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Is a weight distribution hitch required for these trailers?
No, no trailer requires a weight distribution hitch. Some tow vehicles can't handle the tongue weight of the trailer without a weight distribution hitch - the need (or more commonly, desire) depends on the combination of tug and trailer.
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:48 PM   #200
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Why do trailer manufactures do the cord through a door at all? Sheesh! That sounds like a good option to get then, very reasonably priced, and saves me from doing it myself!
Discussions of detachable power cords in forums like this show that there are fans of both arrangements (detachable or fixed), regardless of cost. There is no single correct answer to this design question, so it is not surprising or disappointing to me that manufacturers chose the less expensive arrangement as their standard.
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