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11-17-2021, 09:13 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: alpharetta, Georgia
Trailer: 2014 21' Escape
Posts: 494
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Insulating a metal garage.....
Hello All ,
We just had a prefabbed metal garage built, mostly to store our 21C. For the most part happy with the final result. This is in central Georgia so I'm more concerned about the heat then I am the cold. I've watched several youtube videos and pretty sure I'm going to use the white reflective foam insulation vapor barrier type product, still deciding on how to install it though. Anyone else do this and if so have any experience they can share and or suggestions?
Also how hot is to hot for the RV while it's in storage? I did have two windows installed so also thinking about running window fans to keep the temperature down if I need to.
BIG THANKS in advance,
Steve
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11-17-2021, 09:19 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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I would think no insulation would be needed as you are not heating it..............wish I had one though!
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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11-17-2021, 10:25 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
I would think no insulation would be needed as you are not heating it..............wish I had one though!
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I think that he's more concerned about it turning into an oven than cold. I'm not sure that I'd do anything more than provide some fan forced air flow though. Lot's of f.g trailers and boats live in very hot places and don't seem to suffer. It's usually the UV that does the damage.
Ya, I wish I had one too.
Ron
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11-17-2021, 10:37 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Driggs, ID / Collinsville, Illinois
Trailer: 2019 Escape 19
Posts: 54
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Ideally, insulation should have been installed during the construction of the carport - reflective insulation rolls applied under the outer steel panels. Adding such insulation now can be done but may prove to be a tedious, laborious process as each row of screws will need to be removed to allow insulation to be slipped under the panel and between the support posts for the best results. Other means of applying may be possible but keeping the insulation in place could be challenging as the steel panels will get very hot in the summer and cause many adhesives to fail. Perhaps running the rolls vertically and continuously from one side to the other with nylon cord running horizontally between the panels and around the support posts would work. https://www.wholesaledirectcarports....-metal-garage/
You may also consider running a fan inside of the trailer for airflow to mitigate the effects of Georgia humidity. On a side note - your front box looks interesting.
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11-17-2021, 12:12 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Hazelwood, Missouri
Trailer: 2021 5.0
Posts: 767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratos175
Hello All ,
We just had a prefabbed metal garage built, mostly to store our 21C. For the most part happy with the final result. This is in central Georgia so I'm more concerned about the heat then I am the cold. I've watched several youtube videos and pretty sure I'm going to use the white reflective foam insulation vapor barrier type product, still deciding on how to install it though. Anyone else do this and if so have any experience they can share and or suggestions?
Also how hot is to hot for the RV while it's in storage? I did have two windows installed so also thinking about running window fans to keep the temperature down if I need to.
BIG THANKS in advance,
Steve
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I’m assuming you have vents already installed somewhere in your garage, if not I’d start there.
Then look into a gable vent fan that comes with a built in thermostat, Home Depot has them.
It will draw out the heat in there same as an attic fan in your home.
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11-17-2021, 03:09 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: DFW, Texas
Trailer: 2018 21 Sept 7 2018
Posts: 1,073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo
I’m assuming you have vents already installed somewhere in your garage, if not I’d start there.
Then look into a gable vent fan that comes with a built in thermostat, Home Depot has them.
It will draw out the heat in there same as an attic fan in your home.
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Exactly best thing to do even if you insulate it
David
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11-17-2021, 04:17 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: alpharetta, Georgia
Trailer: 2014 21' Escape
Posts: 494
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BIG THANKS for the suggestions!!!!
I thought somewhat would ask about the storage box . Long story but we bought the trailer late 2017 from 2nd owner ( he loved it but ordered a Bigfoot because they wanted a 25'). The original owner did not get the factory box so in the short time 2nd owner had it he had that box built by a metal fabricator he knows.
I LOVE THE STORAGE BOX!!!!. I've seen the factory box and 100% go this direction if buying a new Escape. I've attached more pictures so you can see the interior. Even with the two propane tanks I still have enough room for 4 of the HD crates, and other stuff. I will say it again LOVE THE BOX .
Enjoy the journey,
Steve
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11-17-2021, 05:55 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Yarnell, Arizona
Trailer: 2024 Bigfoot 21 Rear Bed
Posts: 545
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We built a concrete block house with an internal metal frame to hold the sheet rock. But before we built the metal framing we insulated using a method for insulating metal buildings. We attached 6" spikes to the walls with a very strong glue. Then placed 6" fiberglass batting over the spikes. The spikes then were capped with a retainer clip. We bought the spikes, clips, and glue online, but this was 14 years ago so do not have a current web address. The spikes were available in 2",4", and 6" lengths. We found our best insulation at reducing daytime temps was insulating the roof. In our case we had conventional metal trusses, and did not use any unusual insulating techniques.
__________________
Myrl and Gary
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11-17-2021, 07:55 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Madison area, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19 Chevy 2012 Express 3500 Van
Posts: 1,734
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Pricey, but effective
What about some sprayed foam insulation? It adds a measure of structural integrity to the shell, would insulate very well , but not look terribly inviting. But....it's an outbuilding, not a LIVING ROOM. Do get some airflow, powered or natural...that sounds like a very reasonable action for heat & humidity moderation.
Ultimately, your rig will be fine, regardless of temps, even "as is", unless they get "on fire" hot..
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11-17-2021, 10:32 PM
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#10
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 - "Felicity"
Posts: 2,945
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Same setup here & no front door, so it's always got air circulating. Vents on both side and rear walls but not fans. White roof reflects sun quite well, so never worried about the trailer getting more than warm.
__________________
Charlie Y
Need custom storage to your design? Don't drill holes!
www.RVWidgetWorks.com
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11-18-2021, 06:22 AM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,023
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I would think you'd want to insulate the roof for no other reason than condensation due to humidity. I have an 18'x25' metal carport, with all open sides and it's been known to drip even here in Oregon. I'd think Georgia would be worse.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
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11-18-2021, 08:26 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Trailer: 2012 Escape-19
Posts: 383
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Donna is correct on the condensation, the other issue here in fl. is the mold the condensation causes. Sounds like this guy is from Alabama, this is how he insulated his.
Also check out the Blue Tex videos. They also have inst. videos.
Eddie
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11-18-2021, 10:24 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,235
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When I moved from the Recreation to the Park side at my last municipal job a new concession building was being constructed. It was designed by a Landscape Architect. Not so good. My first assignment was to design and commission the entire electrical system, purchase and have installed a refrigerated walk in cooler for keg beer and finish the project. So I did. There had been no consideration for venting the heat in the building. We immediately recognized that the refrigeration units and sun made the building candy bar melting warm by mid afternoon. I purchased two gable fan units, thermostatically controlled with power louvers, they would come on about the time the sun started to really warm the building. They ran off and on till about 10 pm. Then shut down for the night. Worked great for the next 16 years that I worked for the department. Pulled the heat up and out of the building.
On our metal skinned pole building here at home, we have a ridge vent on the metal roof and ventilated soffit with interior screen to keep insects and birds out. We have not found the need to power ventilate the building but sometimes we open the overhead door on real hot days. Not so much for protection of the Escape but for comfort as we work in and around the building. I can see no effect on the 21 after 4 years.
The wind blows at least 6 days out of 7 out here. This morning 30 degrees F with a 21 mph wind out of the WNW. Wind chill 19F. Jake and I were just out for a walk. He was ready to come back in after about 10 minutes. He said “ I don’t care how many squirrels are out here, I got a new bag of Science Diet in the house, let’s go back in.”
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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11-18-2021, 01:24 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Kent, Ohio
Trailer: 2017 21c Sold, 2023 Bigfoot 25RQ
Posts: 1,382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave
When I moved from the Recreation to the Park side at my last municipal job a new concession building was being constructed. It was designed by a Landscape Architect. Not so good. My first assignment was to design and commission the entire electrical system, purchase and have installed a refrigerated walk in cooler for keg beer and finish the project. So I did. There had been no consideration for venting the heat in the building. We immediately recognized that the refrigeration units and sun made the building candy bar melting warm by mid afternoon. I purchased two gable fan units, thermostatically controlled with power louvers, they would come on about the time the sun started to really warm the building. They ran off and on till about 10 pm. Then shut down for the night. Worked great for the next 16 years that I worked for the department. Pulled the heat up and out of the building.
On our metal skinned pole building here at home, we have a ridge vent on the metal roof and ventilated soffit with interior screen to keep insects and birds out. We have not found the need to power ventilate the building but sometimes we open the overhead door on real hot days. Not so much for protection of the Escape but for comfort as we work in and around the building. I can see no effect on the 21 after 4 years.
The wind blows at least 6 days out of 7 out here. This morning 30 degrees F with a 21 mph wind out of the WNW. Wind chill 19F. Jake and I were just out for a walk. He was ready to come back in after about 10 minutes. He said “ I don’t care how many squirrels are out here, I got a new bag of Science Diet in the house, let’s go back in.”
Iowa Dave
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Speaking of clueless, when I used to do projects for the NPS one of which was the Monument at Put in Bay, Ohio, Perry’s Victory Peace Memorial. When it was constructed in the early 1900’s, they designed to to have ventilation up from the base of the column. Some genius in the early 80’s or mid 79’s decided they would cover these up, which of course prevented the circulation of air on the inside of the column, which of course created condensation which of course deteriorated the lime stone. It took a maintenance man with out an engineering degree to figure it out.
Go figure
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12-03-2021, 10:20 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: USA, Nunavut
Trailer: Escape
Posts: 274
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We have the same type building in Florida. No insulation, but has vents which were required for flood mitigation. Vents are low which allow water to pass thru in the case of flooding. I seriously doubt any vent will make the garage significantly cooler. Outside shade trees would do a better job. However, think you can rest easy about heat. We stored our Casita in this building for over 5 years without any problems. It had a single AGM type battery without problems as well.
For the Escape, the only thing that concerned me was the LiFePO4 batteries. Below is the response from Battleborn.
There's no way that garage gets hot enough in FL to exceed the limits Battleborn mentions below.
_________________________________________________
Update for Case SUP14831 - "New Inquiry from John Byrne - 2021-11-05 19:46:39"
Hey John,
If you have batteries operating at 100F, this is not detrimental. Our operating temperature is 135F internally, and they can be stored up to 140F. Arizona is a very popular place for camping, and we have a large number of customer using our batteries at 120F with no issues at all.
Aaron
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12-03-2021, 04:46 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: 50 miles S of Atlanta, Georgia
Trailer: 2008 BigfootRV 25B21RB
Posts: 289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratos175
BIG THANKS for the suggestions!!!!
I thought somewhat would ask about the storage box . Long story but we bought the trailer late 2017 from 2nd owner ( he loved it but ordered a Bigfoot because they wanted a 25'). The original owner did not get the factory box so in the short time 2nd owner had it he had that box built by a metal fabricator he knows.
I LOVE THE STORAGE BOX!!!!. I've seen the factory box and 100% go this direction if buying a new Escape. I've attached more pictures so you can see the interior. Even with the two propane tanks I still have enough room for 4 of the HD crates, and other stuff. I will say it again LOVE THE BOX .
Enjoy the journey,
Steve
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Is that storage box open on the bottom? Ventilated? Its dangerous if not as leaking propane gas can accumulate in the locker till it explodes when set off. Additionally, DOT requires the access to the cylinders to be not lockable so that anyone, any time can gain access in a hurry to shut off the tanks.
Building heat, yes, that building will be like an oven in the Georgia summer sun. I used to work in an aircraft hangar in Columbus that had no insulation, and in the mornings you could not get within 15 or 20 ft of the east wall due to the heat radiating thru the metal. It was a very tall building and after opening the doors on either end, I would get enough ventilation to make it bearable.
Charles
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12-07-2021, 12:50 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: alpharetta, Georgia
Trailer: 2014 21' Escape
Posts: 494
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Charles, interesting what you say about venting for the propane in case of a leak. I guess I will be adding a vent, should be easy enough to do. The handle on it has a lock but it does not work and have not seen to replace because of that.
Thanks for the info.
Steve
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12-07-2021, 09:34 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratos175
I guess I will be adding a vent, should be easy enough to do.
Steve
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And of course, propane being heavier than air, it would be in the bottom.
It's a standard installation on boats. Hole in bottom of propane locker that gravity drains overboard.
Ron
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12-10-2021, 08:42 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: 50 miles S of Atlanta, Georgia
Trailer: 2008 BigfootRV 25B21RB
Posts: 289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratos175
Charles, interesting what you say about venting for the propane in case of a leak. I guess I will be adding a vent, should be easy enough to do. The handle on it has a lock but it does not work and have not seen to replace because of that.
Thanks for the info.
Steve
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I had a Winnebago View Motor home, so I was on the forum alot. Most models have what I call a "fish tank" on the right side. Its a slide out compartment outside that is molded plastic tub with a lid and a outside face to match the lower side of the motor home. One forum member said to not store the 1 lb throwaway propane cylinders in it. They had one they used for a grill and put it in there, but it was leaking. Something set it off and it blew out the side of the motor home. After that I bought the brass caps with a flat seal in them that screw on the top of those throwaway type canisters.
BTBRV on youtube was doing a walkaround of the 19 ft Black Series he is trying out. Someone commented about the storage locker on the front having no lock, they did not seem to understand why. Here is the video, starting at the point where he is showing the cylinders. Note the open holes in the bottom to allow propane to escape. (I just now added a comment about the regulator being recalled) https://youtu.be/F3igRsism18?t=297
Charles
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