Minor fix questions on my trailer

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

Yep

Spot on.
It was adhesive backed . We got the plastic part off and spent about 20 minutes getting the glue off with goof off.

Cant tell it was there.

Nice work.

[oldwave]

https://www.amazon.com/camper-power-...wer+cord+cover

[ghosthunter]

Thinking of some stuff to have on board just incase. Anyone know what selection of fuses to carry, off the top of their head?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

Thinking of some stuff to have on board just incase. Anyone know what selection of fuses to carry, off the top of their head?

Most trailers I have seen have 15A fuses for most or all DC circuits. A 30A is used only if you have a 3-way fridge with DC functionality. The WFCO-8955 power center also has two 40A reverse polarity fuses. These are all standard automotive blade fuses like this:
https://www.pepboys.com/littelfuse-1...roduct/8962397
Don’t mistakenly get the “Mini” fuses...they are the wrong one.

It would also be wise to check if you have a fuse on the positive wire near the battery.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Most trailers I have seen have 15A fuses for most or all DC circuits. A 30A is used only if you have a 3-way fridge with DC functionality. The WFCO-8955 power center also has two 40A reverse polarity fuses. These are all standard automotive blade fuses like this:
https://www.pepboys.com/littelfuse-1...roduct/8962397
Don’t mistakenly get the “Mini” fuses...they are the wrong one.

The key is the term "ATO", which is an industry-standard code.

[ghosthunter]

Thank you I will check the battery fuse.

My Nissan has two 30 A fuses on the positive side. One blew during turkey hunt a year ago. Left us stranded on a Mountain over night and a 1 K tow bill.

So when I bought the replacement I bought two, just in case.

[ghosthunter]

Yeah good advice
Thank you. Brian B-P

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

Yeah good advice
Thank you. Brian B-P

Well my trailer is still looking shinny. The previous owner did a good job keeping it up it seems.

But I am making plans to keep up on the outside this fall. I have some wax ordered.

What is everyone doing to protect the vents and AC cover from sun.
Waxing?
Covering?
Seems like the roof area would be the hardest to maintain.
And how often are you covering your trailer?

Mine sits in driveway and gets sun most of the day. But I live in Mount Vernon WA so not Arizona for sure. 80s. Mostly 70s. and maybe two weeks at most than it rains.

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

...Now on to my 3 rd fix.

My power cord door broke. Have a Amazon link for a new one. Look straight forward replacement.

Any tips while I wait for part?

Suggested sealer or chalk?

I'm guessing it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/BRAND-CAMPER-...97174075&psc=1


Bobby, Escape's installation on my 2015 E17 looks the same: (4) self-thread Robertson #2 head screws through the body. I just looked under the dinette seat, at mine, inside, and confirmed that it's screws, not bolts w/nuts.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by dfandrews

I'm guessing it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/BRAND-CAMPER-...97174075&psc=1


Bobby, Escape's installation on my 2015 E17 looks the same: (4) self-thread Robertson #2 head screws through the body. I just looked under the dinette seat, at mine, inside, and confirmed that it's screws, not bolts w/nuts.

Yeah it’s screws. I got one coming. Won’t be here by the time we leave for our maiden camping trip to Bonaparte lake, but we will get by till next week.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The key is the term "ATO", which is an industry-standard code.

I found some in my shop that say ATC.

Those work?

[ghosthunter]

My next project. Sometime next week is to tackle a interior light over my cook top.

The seller told me it had stopped working just before he returned home from a four month trip.
He had sold his house and was working on moving to Utah. So no time to trouble shoot it.

All other lights in trailer work fine. The trailer is on shore power.
I thought maybe it was a bulb, but I moved a known good bulb from another fixture and still doesn’t work.
The wiring in the cabinet all seems in good shape and the light over the sink is working fine.

Do these fixtures go bad?

I have a brand new Klein MM400 multi tester that I just bought. But barley know what to do with it.

So how would you approach this problem?

Thanks in advance.

[ghosthunter]

Here is the fixture.

[oldwave]

Check fora blown fuse in the wfco?

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by oldwave

Check fora blown fuse in the wfco?

Wfco. . confused:

[oldwave]

That’s the power enter that has the dc and ac breakers and fuses

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by oldwave

That’s the power enter that has the dc and ac breakers and fuses

Ok will check it out.

[Rossue]

In those older LED lights the led strip an be replaced. If you put a known good one in that bad light and it works then you can order a replacement. Sometimes a pencil eraser on the contacts can be a fix, however that us usually for strobing lights.

[ghosthunter]

I was messing around with the light a little today and it lightly blinked a few times.
Getting ready for a weekend trip . Work on it more next week.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

Photo of port

Ok now I am back from our little maiden voyage and have the trailer all cleaned up. I am ready to tackle this repair.
I have a new power portal in hand and the process looks straight forward.

Any recommendation on a sealer for around the edges. Silicone White?
Or is there something better?