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Old 11-23-2015, 08:17 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disneydoc View Post

Any body having a hinged rear dinette want to chime in, does it help for a situation where the rear dinette is converted & remains as a bed.

Best regards
We have a hinged front dinette table in our 19' and it helps a great deal for frequent changes in converting the dinette to a bed. If your dinette will remain a bed, I wouldn't see any advantage to the hinged table.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:26 AM   #42
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I've not noticed the aluminum wheels needing any extra tightening. The trailers manual calls for torquing either type of wheels before each use (Pre-travel Checklist), if one goes by the manual.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:44 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Jubal mine now went down to 31 on 4 . I was traveling in 90-100+ heat and frig never went over 42.,43 from opening door .It recovered very fast ,unlike before . I hit 56 in shade , outside temp about 76 before mods . I never did install the new temp mod . I just hang thermistor outside it's holder . I am happy with the trouble I went through . I still carry A ice chest and always will . Pat
So, did you remove the 4.3 frig to modify it ? Do you feel that temps above 42 degrees will keep perishables safe ? Trying to provide pertinent info to the OP.
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:02 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonF View Post
If your dinette will remain a bed, I wouldn't see any advantage to the hinged table.
...and I believe you'd then have the cleats always showing on the wall.
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:15 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disneydoc View Post
Thank you, suggestions make a lot of sense. Some more changes in the Options,

- The Fastway E2 hitch with Sway Control is included.

- The rear Hatch will be helpful & it stays

- We will use a space Heater, if we do go to a colder place

Any body having a hinged rear dinette want to chime in, does it help for a situation where the rear dinette is converted & remains as a bed.

Thanks for helping a newbie,

Best regards
I definitely would recommend both the electric jack and a rear passenger side hatch. I use the large dinette as a permanent bed, but have both inside and outside access and have used both. There is a lot of space under there and it is a lot easier to access from the exterior.
If I'd had the opportunity, I would have the installed surge protector.
I haven't used the propane hook-up.
It also is handy to have exterior lighting other than the porch light. The electric jack comes with a light that can be turned on if needed. (At least mine does).
As I feed my attached cord back into the trailer, I have a damp rag in one hand that cleans it, so as not to get gunge in that compartment.
just some thoughts.
Enjoy.
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:27 AM   #46
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If you decide to go with a small space heater, we have had very good luck with Vornado models. We have this small one that fits easily on the floor inside the cabinet. Vornado VTH The Vornados are quite a bit more expensive than others, but for us they have lasted a very long time, and are very quiet. When we have electricity, we use it instead of the furnace. With its low speed fan it moves the heat around in our 17B. When showering, we set it in front of the entry door and point it right at us when we get out - feels great. We also use it to blow warm air into the bathroom with the top vent open and help dry it out quickly. Its small size makes it easy to move around and store.

Purely personal opinion: I am yet to be convinced that the removable cable is more convenient than the "regular" one is. Like Sandra, I just wipe ours off as I push it in, have never had a kinking problem, and best of all can never misplace it!
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:35 AM   #47
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Under the thread: Mattress options for the 17B? are pictures of my interior under bed storage door.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:28 AM   #48
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Isn't the recommendation with aluminum wheels that they be checked (torque) again shortly after they have been installed/reinstalled? I hadn't heard the need to do it after that, or have I missed something?
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:35 AM   #49
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I haven't had any problems with the aluminum rims " loosening" up- I do carry a tourque wrench with me, it's fairly long- not much bending needed.
It is my understanding that anytime you remove the rims or loosen up the nuts for some reason, you have to check them after 100 miles or so, but I think that goes for both types of rims.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:55 AM   #50
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From the manual.

"Exterior Pre-Travel Checklist
• Fill the propane bottles
• Empty the holding tanks
• Connect the trailer to the tow vehicle and test all of the exterior lights
• Inspect the awning and ensure that it is properly retracted and secured for travel.
• Inspect all exterior baggage doors and hatches ensuring they are locked
• Inspect the tires and check the pressures. Refer to Chapter 9
Torque the lug nuts. Refer to Chapter 9"

From the Tire Safety section.
"WHEEL LUGS MUST BE PROPERLY TORQUED. TIGHTEN ALL LUG NUTS BEFORE FIRST MOVEMENT AND
AT 10, 25, AND 50 MILES. "

At the General Maintenance checklist at the back it says to Torque them "Each Trip
or Weekly"

FWIW, I've done mine before/during long trips and a couple times after I rotated the tires.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:11 AM   #51
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Bob - it makes no differentiation between steel and aluminum? I guess I am really a slacker. I torque them when I put them on and then recheck after a bit of driving. Never noticed any that were not still very close to the original torque setting. I can't figure out why they would be more prone to loosening than those on a car/truck would be?
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:12 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disneydoc View Post
Although I would like aluminum wheels, a fellow poster mentioned about the need
to keep tightening the lug nuts & said they may need continued maintenance, and that is the reason I am not getting them.
I am unable to bend my knee too much because of a complicated knee replacement & the thought of taking care of the wheels was enough to go to steel rims.

Can some body who has aluminum wheels advise me on their car.

Thanks
I checked mine after 500 miles and not since then, still tight.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:14 AM   #53
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Quote:
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So, did you remove the 4.3 frig to modify it ? Do you feel that temps above 42 degrees will keep perishables safe ? Trying to provide pertinent info to the OP.
Jubal ,yes I did remove frig and insulated the whole cavity . Having 2 previous Dometic frig's felt insulation was lacking on frig itself . Made my fan on back of frig controlled by a switch . Added another vent fan which I also can control with switch . Moved thermistor outside holder . Removed back wood ledge and remade to a new one that is at a 45 degree angle (just above opening at rear ) Yes I made changes going down to 31 never happened before on this frig . Also 42-43 was from opening door , however it recovered very fast . I think the new fridge quard will solve that , not losing cold when door is opened . Makes sense to me . Also things won't fall out when I open door after traveling . The 31 was in morning then 36-37 was approx temp in day . So for me frig is greatly improved . Pat
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Old 11-23-2015, 12:33 PM   #54
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I'd get the aluminum rims because they look 'way' cool.
I'd get the solar ready package because you may want to install solar later and it's a great resale option.
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Old 11-23-2015, 12:49 PM   #55
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I thought I wanted aluminum rims ( I was about to replace tires anyway ), but one day, I looked out the kitchen window at the trailer and I thought, "I like those white wheels".
Not sure why I suddenly went retro, but I did.
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Old 11-23-2015, 01:10 PM   #56
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On rims I am good with the white steel rims that were standard. Our previous owner had added a chrome beauty rings which seem to be
of good quality as they clean up nice and take a good polish. I'm more concerned that they stay true and hold air well. The aluminum rims are sharp no doubt. It's a personal preference issue to me. The main thing is to keep them rolling.
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Old 11-23-2015, 01:27 PM   #57
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Quote:
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Bob - it makes no differentiation between steel and aluminum? I guess I am really a slacker. I torque them when I put them on and then recheck after a bit of driving. Never noticed any that were not still very close to the original torque setting. I can't figure out why they would be more prone to loosening than those on a car/truck would be?
I don't see anywhere in the manual that says to treat one type different then the other.

I imagine the vast majority of trailer owners don't touch the lug nuts, and certainly not as often as the manuals to do so.

You're supposed to test the Break-away cable weekly or before each trip, Clean the battery cables and check the water level monthly. Inspect the brakes and sanitize the water system every 3 months. And of course repack the wheel bearings every year. How many of those do folks do?
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:40 PM   #58
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On rims I am good with the white steel rims that were standard. Our previous owner had added a chrome beauty rings which seem to be
of good quality as they clean up nice and take a good polish. I'm more concerned that they stay true and hold air well. The aluminum rims are sharp no doubt. It's a personal preference issue to me. The main thing is to keep them rolling.
Dave
Hi: Iowa Dave... Aluminium rims are not with out their faults. I've noticed marks radiating out from the holes that don't wash or polish off... but I still like them. You're right though...Rolling rims gather no loss!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 11-23-2015, 05:31 PM   #59
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Ha!

Quote:
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You're right though...Rolling rims gather no loss!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:29 PM   #60
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The detatchable power cord is nice because you can keep it in the storage box and have the room in the trailer for other "indoor" items.
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