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Old 11-23-2015, 06:36 PM   #61
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On pick-up, Reace said to check the lug nuts every 100 miles for the first 300.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:20 PM   #62
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I've heard the heat strip requires running the air conditioner which is loud, but then I've never had one so it's 2nd hand info.
It makes sense that to use the heating element in an air conditioner the fan still needs to run to circulate the air. Unfortunately, most air conditioners drive both the fan for interior air and the fan for exterior air (to exhaust heat) with the same motor, so running that motor and thus both fans when you need just one fan makes a lot of noise and consumes a lot of power. Escape has used at least two models; I don't know if either one has one or two fan motors. At least the air conditioner's compressor is separately powered and would not run in heat-strip mode (but would in the very different heat pump mode, if anyone has that).
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:24 PM   #63
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I've not noticed the aluminum wheels needing any extra tightening. The trailers manual calls for torquing either type of wheels before each use (Pre-travel Checklist), if one goes by the manual.
It makes sense that the material doesn't matter, because the re-tightening requirement results from the common practice in trailers of using tapered-seat nuts and not having hub-centric location of the wheel. This isn't an issue for modern motor vehicles (using either steel or aluminum alloy wheels), because they have hub-centric wheels.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:28 PM   #64
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How many of the millions of car and truck owners with alloy wheels check their lug nugs regularly?
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:36 PM   #65
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How many of the millions of car and truck owners with alloy wheels check their lug nugs regularly?
Almost none, because...
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This isn't an issue for modern motor vehicles (using either steel or aluminum alloy wheels), because they have hub-centric wheels.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:36 PM   #66
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I got a removable power cord for my 17b which I pick up in three months, because I did not want an entrance point for mice.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:03 PM   #67
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I would say torquing the wheels would be more critical on a dual axle trailer as the wheels are subject to side stresses from turning, backing, etc. We have the aluminum rims and I probably checked them five or six times on our way home. I was getting a little movement on several of the lug nuts until the last session. I will always carry the torque wrench with me when out with the trailer. Loren
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:17 PM   #68
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I would say torquing the wheels would be more critical on a dual axle trailer as the wheels are subject to side stresses from turning, backing, etc. We have the aluminum rims and I probably checked them five or six times on our way home. I was getting a little movement on several of the lug nuts until the last session. I will always carry the torque wrench with me when out with the trailer. Loren
We torque the wheels before we go on the road . I have one lug nut that loosens a little . We have the dual wheels and aluminum wheels . Carry a torque wench with us . Also check the air in tires . Had a flat on one tire my last trip found when I got home . Fixed tire and will check that one more often . Every time we stopped felt tires and wheels for a heat . Pat
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Old 11-24-2015, 11:53 AM   #69
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I added my inverter & a Progressive EMS-HW30C in the space a non-detachable power cord would take up. Like Steve, I also like not having another opening for mice & insects.
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Old 11-24-2015, 12:26 PM   #70
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They sell a rubber plug that goes around cord and plugs hole . We have one . Pat
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Old 11-24-2015, 12:48 PM   #71
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I want to thank every one for posting on this thread, your posts have been very helpful to me to form my option list.

I am getting there, although I have 3 more days to finalize my options.

It has been a very steep curve for me, learning a lot in the process, about Rving & the Escape Trailer in particular.

1 more question I have is - We are ordering a custom fabric from Sailrite as suggested by Escape Trailers, does any one know for what is the charge of $100 for the custom Fabric by the Escape Trailers.

Thanks & best regards
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Old 11-24-2015, 01:05 PM   #72
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It could be considered a stocking fee or handling fee. Any time ETI and the upholsterer have to use a different fabric other than the stock one, it takes more time and slows production. And time is money to any manufacturer.
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Old 11-24-2015, 01:14 PM   #73
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They sell a rubber plug that goes around cord and plugs hole . We have one . Pat
Cool! Can you produce a picture?
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Old 11-24-2015, 01:31 PM   #74
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They sell a rubber plug that goes around cord and plugs hole . We have one . Pat
Thanks Pat. The removable power cord might be an option that I will find to be unnecessary (I pick up my 17b in 3 months).
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Old 11-24-2015, 01:38 PM   #75
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Cool! Can you produce a picture?
Here you go .It is 1/4 thick rubber . Could make one but it needs to fit snug and perfect round .
Attached Thumbnails
P1010003 2.jpg   P1010001 2.jpg   P1010002 3.jpg  
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Old 11-24-2015, 01:49 PM   #76
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Pat, any chance you can post where you got that dohickey?
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Old 11-24-2015, 02:53 PM   #77
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Pat, any chance you can post where you got that dohickey?
I bought mine at a RV store in town . Any RV store , I think Amazon too . Online . They also make them for the square and one other one . If RV store doesn't have in stock they can order it for you . Pat
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Old 11-24-2015, 03:16 PM   #78
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Pat, any chance you can post where you got that dohickey?
Hi Bruce . I looked up manufacturer . It is made by AP Products , called Hatch Door Bug Shield #008-646 . Hope this helps . I always close my hatch too after I have pulled out cord , what I need . Pat
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Old 11-24-2015, 04:09 PM   #79
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Thanks Pat.

Amazon.com link for those interested.
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Old 11-24-2015, 04:12 PM   #80
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Hi Bruce look around I only paid about 17. No shipping . RV store got it for me . Pat
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